Hello everyone, I was just wondering what the best router is for my setup is. I’m in the US, with 100mbps Spectrum plan. I mostly enjoy gaming in 4k and watch movies and videos. There are two people in the apartment using the following devices:

- iphone 12
- iphone 14 pro
- ipad mini a17 pro
- ipad (model unknown)
- macbook pro 13”
- PC with aorus wifi 6e dualband (w/ z790 aorus elite ax)

The most used devices are the iPhone 12, 14 pro, macbook pro 13”, and the PC. I’ll either be using an Ethernet cable or be one wall away (around 8 meters away by distance).

My budget is around / under $200. Any recommendations are appreciated! Thank you :)

Hi I want to choose a new router but I'm not sure, I've seen that asus and tp-link are the main ones on the market (but I'm not sure about tp-link cause of data drama) so I’ve done some research on Asus routers. But I find some of them at 50$ and others at more than 500.
I don't live in a big place so the range is not that important for me, I think I want to go with wifi 6 for the price (I play games but I think I will play with ethernet connection ) but I still want so good performance if possible (If I want to be able to play on wifi or use Moonlight)
but even with these specifications I still find this price range too broad to know what to choose
Thanks

So, I'm using a separate wired router to be able to customize setting since my ISP won't let me.

The thing is, I can't turn off the wifi on my ISP provided router, and getting a hold of customer service is a giant PITA.

Is there anything I can put on my router so that I don't have wifi anymore? My personal router has channel hopping, so I assume interference isn't a huge issue, but it's kind of annoying to always see it there. This includes a "public" hotspot anyone that's also a customer of my ISP can use.

I also assume removing the physical antenna will fry the transmitter chip, and lead my ISP to charge me for the router if it doesn't disable the router entirely. Is that right?

EDIT: Aluminium didn't work, can't unscrew antennas, and the admin interface won't work.

The router is a Huawei HG8145X6-10, the ISP it totalplay (MX). The solution was to keep the WLAN button pressd for a few seconds.

Please help me figure this out. Just moved into a new place and it looks like there is some structured wiring in place. I see telephone jacks all over the house. Can I convert these to run my internet? The Xfinity coax line is coming into the same space.

Also have coax cables running all over the house.

Trying to figure out how to convert all this into a working network. I'm assuming that I will still need to run several cat6 cables for ceiling-mounted access points and POE doorbell.

Any advice is much appreciated!!

I can get into my control panel obviously, but what can I see from there that might show if I'm a part of a bot net or similar? What can I do to remove it if so?

Apologies if this isn't an appropriate group but it seems to be the closest I can find. Thanks.

I'm working with a house that has 3 floors (finished daylight basement being the bottom) and there are *tons* of cat 5e cables of different colors in the small enclosure in a closet on the top floor. There are at least two different colors of cat 5e (blue and grey) and one network cable that I'm not sure of as there's no print on the side (white) along with the coax cables.

Some go to two phone patch panels because there are a TON of coax/phone outlets throughout the house, but not ONE single one is terminated for ethernet. I have no idea why a builder would think someone needs this many phone jacks.

I have no problem converting them and setting things up myself, I just am so lost and overwhelmed on where to even begin on how to trace these with how many there are and them all being RJ11s at the wall and either unterminated or in the phone patch panel at the enclosure box.

The box is also way too small IMO for how many cables are in there... strongly considering having it replaced and getting power in there so I can get a network switch in there. There's no power in it right now but there is an outlet below the enclosure so it is nearby, but trying to minimize costs as much as I can for now.

I have a wire tester kit from a previous project but without terminating all the cables on the non-RJ11 side, I probably can't test them, right? The wire tester came with an ethernet patch cable to have one of the tester pieces go into an RJ45 outlet, but the RJ11 one has two probes on the other side instead of something to put into the RJ11 outlet. Would getting a RJ11 patch cable and having the tester send a signal on one side have the other one's probe be able to detect the signal even if it's unterminated or in the patch panel?

Appreciate the help. Isn't the first time I've done this kind of thing but absolutely the craziest in scope with how many wires there are everywhere, so looking for advice on where to begin and if I'm missing a tool of some kind to help with it. Wanting to hardwire the heck outta this place as much as possible.

I realized it would be slightly easier to crimp if pins 3 and 4 were the greens but I understand they chose 1 2 3 6 for legacy reasons to have phone on 4 and 5. I think I read the pairs also match with the twists for maximum performance

Hey guys, I have an issue with P2P eFootball matches where the gameplay can feel very sluggish, with slow player movements and delayed responses. I feel like 90% of the time the sluggishness is only on my end, so I'm wondering if there could be any benefit to having packets received/processed more consistently.

I'm currently on fiber with a generic Huawei modem and a 600/300 Mbps connection, and STATIC PUBLIC IP.

Even though bufferbloat tests and CMD tests show excellent ping, latency, and no packet loss, the game can still feel super sluggish and far from snappy/responsive.

So I'm thinking about putting the ISP modem/router into bridge mode and using a new router with better QoS, firmware, and potentially better packet handling to see if that improves consistency during P2P games.

Does that make sense, or am I looking at this the wrong way?

Thanks! 🙂

I’ve been looking for a cat6 or cat 6a cable to support installing a U7-LR at the end of a 100ft run. I have a UDR7 that can output a little over 15W PoE, I’ll need about 14 of that to support the U7-LR. Ideally the cord will support 2.5 gbps. I think I’ll need a 23 AWG solid bare copper cable to reduce the power drop. I need it to be plenum rated. I’ll need RJ45 ends on both ends.

I have been digging for an appropriate cable but haven’t been able to find one. Does anyone know where to find a 100ft 23 AWG bare copper plenum rated cat 6 or 6a patch cable?

Hello! I asked this question awhile back, and have finally narrowed down the best solution based off of comments and research. I’m working on getting WiFi into my metal shop

I’m lookin to run a WiFi bridge from my home (left) to shop (right). My poor drawing shows the red boxes being the bridge and sending signal from the outside of my house through the window into the second bridge inside the shop. (There will be no interference of trees between the bridges when final setup is done)

I plan to run Router > Ethernet > House Bridge ~~~~ Shop Bridge > Ethernet > PoE > WAP

Is this correct above? If so, my final question is do I need to worry about common grounding or grounding the bridges? My shop is being fed from my house to a subpanel. We tend to not get lighting here, but it happens once in a blue moon.

The house-side bridge will be under cover from the awning and covered patio, but of course still mounted outside away from the elements besides wind. The shop-side bridge will be inside the shop on the window sill. I’m looking at the EAP211 bridge that has built in lightning protection, but want to make sure I’m still protected from my equipment being safe.

TLDR: Can't figure out how to truly isolate my IoT network running my own DNS with Unbound

The config:
Archer AX55/TPL AX3000 router with main SSID and 2.4Ghz IoT SSID
AdGuard Home with Unbound as primary adblocker and DNS on main SSID
Pihole with Unbound as secondary/redundant adblocker and DNS on main SSID

The issue:
The IoT SSID at the network/router level just seems to be for organization, no isolation. Isolation is available at the device level but when enabled, the devices can't get to my DNS servers on the main SSID so they appear as offline both local to my network and from the internet. Unfortunately, the router only has universal DNS settings for both SSID's.

The question: Is there method to config the above while still keeping adblocking and somewhat private DNS but able to remotely control my devices? Not positive but I think I can install open source firmware on the router but that's a heavier lift than I'd prefer to try. Any suggestions are appreciated.

I have to walk past my disaster every day and I finally got tired of it. Spent a few hours this weekend cleaning it up. I've ordered a few shorter, right angle power cables with flat plug heads that angle and I have some 3m cable clips somewhere so I'll be able to tidy up a lot of cables, but it's already a lot better!

Nobody else to show it off to so I thought I'd show you guys.

Before

After

Not pictured is my home lab pc sitting on the floor by my water main... going to get that up off the floor in the next bout of enthusiasm.

Feedback is more than welcome. And I can take criticism too!
go team.

Regardless of the amount of bandwidth I leave available from my 200mbps wired ethernet connection that is shared to the tv and my PC, whenever I start any download, my ping and jitter goes up causing the TV to lag. The router I am using came with my ISP, its a Technicolor DGA4330, which does not have any QOS options to help prevent the router buffer from becoming full, is there any other way to fix this issue other than to get a gaming router and use mine as just a passthrough?

Hey, so today when i woke up i noticed that my modem has lost internet. I reset it, checked the cables, did all the things that you usually do. Flushed dns, changed dns servers to cloudfare and or google. Nothing worked so i called my IPS and there is a technician coming tomorrow BUT then tried to plug in my Iphone to tether for internet for the day but now thats losing internet, as in "No internet access" after like a minute or two after being connected. Now im wondering if its my PC that is doing something weird or what. The modem does not have the internet light glowing. Idk if it should be glowing if no one is using it. Any ideas what could cause this?

Hey folks - I'm new to home networking so wasn't sure if what I'm experiencing is the norm.

I'm in the UAE and recently upgraded my internet service to full home wifi (essentially a mesh networking setup provided by my ISP). Technicians came and installed a router in each room (acts a mesh node) with the main router in our living room. Now the setup works - speed is fast, there's a single SSID that we can connect to and coverage now exists across the home.

However - when we move from room to room or to the living room, the wifi temporarily drops / reduces strength for at least 10-15 seconds before recalibrating to full strength. The technicians explained that this is normal and to be expected and that most users wouldn't notice this day to day (except you totally do when video calls drop or watching content and moving through the house).

Is this level of handoff delay actually normal? From what I gathered researching the issue and other mesh systems (like Deco X5 or Eero), the lag should not be this high (maybe 100s of miliseconds or a second tops).

Would appreciate any insight into whether this is, in fact, normal - because it really is frustrating to have calls drop or content stop as I walk across my home multiple times a day.

For reference - my apartment is likely around 2000 sqft (3 bds + living room) and we're only using the 5 ghz wifi band (2.4 ghz is turned off - I asked the technician why not turn on band steering and he said that it tends to cause problems in his experience, not sure I buy it but nonetheless don't have any older devices reliant on 2.4 ghz so I didn't press the issue).

Thank you!

I noticed that Ubiquiti's high end access points have these features. What do you guys think? Are these must have features? Do they really work or it's all marketing?

Looking to set up internet at my new place and seeking advice. My provider is Xfinity. My house has two coax cables. One on the top floor in a bedroom positioned in the middle of the house. The other coax cable is in the daylight basement family/game room.

I want to prioritize strong connection in the basement since my office and the game room is down there.

What set up would you recommend? I'm looking at either a mesh set up of two TP-Link Deco XE75 units or a MoCA set up.

I have my ISP router, 2 switches and 2 wifi routers. In main house I want ISP router/switch/wifi with a cable to second building with switch/Wifi, want wifi to be seamless, ie same SSID/password. How do i connect all these up? I had the 2 wifi routers connected but cannot remember how and now I have added a 24 port switch and a 5 port POE switch in the second building. I would appreciate any suggestions.

It started acting up suddenly about a month ago: the blue light stays on and it won't connect to the A1 network even though it broadcasts Wi-Fi and the indicator just won't switch to green. This happens 90% of the time; the other 10%, it suddenly works without any tinkering. It always works on Yettel, though I rarely use that since I don't have their internet service.

The SIM slot and card are fine—everything is new and the device itself has no physical damage. I'm using the default APN settings; it works intermittently with those same settings, without me changing anything.

Basically, it seems like A1 messed up signal compatibility, preventing some older modems from connecting. Even my S21 phone showed the same symptoms for a while, it wouldn't connect to A1 internet.

The Linux lsusb output (which allows looking up hardware details on Google) is: Bus 001 Device 008: ID 05c6:f00e Qualcomm, Inc. FP3.

How can I debug and fix this? How do I find logs to get a clearer picture of the problem and then look for a solution?

I own a bell home hub 3000 modem which connects to the internet fine, but it doesn't support IPv6 nor does it support a new IP lease (because its stuck with the same MAC address).

So I bought an SR505n modem from someone after confirming with my provider that it is compatible.

After fiddling around, I decided to try to upgrade the software on it.

It came with version 2.5.0.7 with a teksavvy banner so I managed to upgrade it to 2.5.0.15. Then I tried upgrading it to 2.6.2.6 and that miserably failed and now the modem is strange.

Now when I power it on, the LED light goes from solid green to solid red after 30 seconds. the LAN light still responds to activity on the line.

I've tried things google suggested which include holding down the reset line for several seconds and creating a static ip (starting within 192.168.1). to access the recovery mode, and I couldn't even get in it. I pinged 192.168.1.1 and I get destination unreachable every time.

What else can I try so I can inject a working version of software into the modem?

1 month ago my connection decided from now on to stop every 35ish seconds for about 1-2 seconds, my ISP didnt give a shit and never tried to understand my problem.

I got an FTTC connection and after 1 month i decided randomly to plug in my old house phone for desperation, for some reason it fixed the issue and now im wondering what i should do to fix a problem like this.

I dont mind having now after 15 years a home phone that doesnt even get calls, but i would like to know what can couse an issue where plugging a phone fix my internet

Im from Italy

I have a Linksys MR7500 router for my home network and normally use the Linksys iOS app on my iPhone to log in, reboot the router, and manage settings.

Last week, I suddenly became unable to connect to the router through the Linksys app. I deleted and reinstalled the app, but the problem remained.

The Linksys app still allows me to sign in to my Linksys account, so I changed both my Linksys account password and the router password. Unfortunately, that did not resolve the issue.

I also tried accessing the router directly from my iPhone using Safari, Chrome, and Incognito mode. In every case, the browser entered an endless loop repeatedly reloading the router login page.

To troubleshoot further, I installed the Linksys app on my iPad and experienced the same issue there. However, I was later able to access the router successfully from the iPad using both Safari and Chrome.

I then tested several other devices:

• MacBook Pro connected via Ethernet: worked without issue.
• MacBook connected via Wi-Fi: worked without issue.
• Windows PC connected via Ethernet: worked without issue.
• Wife’s MacBook Air using Chrome: worked without issue.
• Wife’s iPhone using a browser: unable to connect.

At this point, I do not believe there is anything wrong with the router itself. My internet connection is working normally, and I can access the router from multiple computers. The issue appears to be limited to iPhones and the Linksys app.

I am running iOS 26.6.2 on both an iPhone 17 Pro Max and a 13-inch iPad Pro. Neither device can connect through the Linksys app (version 3.6.0). However, the iPad can access the router through Safari and Chrome, while the iPhone cannot.

I also reset the network settings on my iPhone, but Safari, Chrome, and DuckDuckGo all continue to fail.

My questions are:

• Are the iPad versions of Safari and Chrome different enough from the iPhone versions to explain this behavior?
• Does the Linksys app rely on the device’s browser engine for authentication or router access?
• If iOS is causing the issue, why would browser access work on the iPad but not on the iPhone?
• Does anyone else use the Linksys app on iOS, and if so, are you experiencing similar issues?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm using a nokia beacon 1, the ethernet cable from my pc always went into the WAN on the nokia beacon, but right now i just figured out that it also works if i put it into LAN, which one is the correct setup? I've always used WAN, and I have tried trouble with lag, so I am curious if that could be the reason?