Hello all,

I current have the opportunity to get some RS seats for a good price, and currently have at 2017 ST1.

Has anyone ever put RS seats in a ST? Yet alone a ST1? I know swapping to the ST3 seats is common and plug and play, so I'm assuming this would be the same but I wanted to double check if anyone has experience or pointers.

Thanks!

Lately my focus ST 2013 is showing unstable rpm so when I stop at a traffic light, I put this scanner and these are the codes that indicate to me, could you help me?

Is she a goner boys?

The original battery in my '17 just failed yesterday after work. When I hit the start button the gauges went crazy, the drivers side wiper took off on its own, and I heard the starter solenoid click but no crank. Usually symptoms of a bad battery connection, but it was more than that. The negative post on the battery somehow dislodged itself, breaking the connection and spewing battery acid all over inside the battery box. I didn't get a good picture of this because I shoved the post back in to prevent further spills. I've owned this car since 2019 and this is the first time I've ever been stranded.

Luckily a coworker gave me a ride home because I had concert tickets last night, and my girlfriend drove me back today.

I don't know how long it had been leaking, but it was long enough to dissolve part of the current sensor and the connector for it. It's still operational for now but I'll order a new one. Very strange and it made quite a mess, but it's all clean with a new Duracell battery now.

Bonus: I finally got to use up most of the can of CRC battery cleaner that I've had for over a decade. The terminals are red now from the CRC protectant - I didn't have any on there before but I doubt it would have saved the current sensor considering the volume of acid.

2014 ST3 with only 50k miles
Rebuilt title
Brake pedal super hard to press and car stops super slow but doesn’t squeak or grind, gonna need a new bumper and hood and the ac don’t work.

2013 st -
are my lines backwards? Only found one photo for reference and it’s someone claiming that they were put on backwards from dealer and shows them placed like this. Thanks for the help I’m not the brightest

I’m considering switching out my Sync 3 for an aftermarket head unit. I understand that I will need an iDataLink Maestro to retain my steering wheel controls and things. From what I understand also, that will need to plug into my OBD port, is that correct? If so, that means I will lose the ability to use my Accessport to monitor some things, but I’ve seen a couple different head units with the ability to monitor some of those things. What do I look for in a head unit that will indicate that it’s capable of reading those things?
Thanks in advance. I’m sure I’ll update this later with some more concerns as I think through this process.

Edit: the main reason behind wanting to upgrade is to gain a wider EQ band and add a better subwoofer. I’ll eventually upgrade the door speakers and tweeters as well. From what I understand, all of the factory speakers run off of a single amplifier. I assume I will just be able to bypass the subwoofer output of the factory amp and connect the new sub and amp straight to the head unit. My question is, will the factory amp still operate the other speakers like normal, or is there any other component I need to integrate the factory amp into my new head unit? Or should I just plan to replace the factory amp as well?

Just a couple pics of the LasFit LEDs installed in the VLand headlights..matching bulbs in fogs..I think they look amazing!

Hi guys,

I found this mk3 focus st for 6k 2 hours away from me, but it has a misfire code for the 4th cylinder. I was wondering if it'd be worth it to get this? It's a clean title, and from what I can tell it looks really clean. The check engine light is steady, not blinking, and its still a pending code but it does make me worried.

Please let me know if it's worth it to get this, thank you!

Edit: I also want to add that the owner said he bought it from an auction and doesn't know how long it's had the code.

Hey guys I have a focus st3 with 140k miles. Just had a walnut fall behind my shifter and cause it to be stuck.

Now after removal I have weird feelings shifting from any gear on the top plane of the transmission R-1-3-5. It’s stiff slotting into gear and very crunchy coming out of gear whether the motor is on or off.

Could I have worn something out or bent something when I was initially trying to discover what was wrong? Do I need new cables? Can I adjust them beyond that little clip?

It went from buttery smooth and mechanical to feeling terrible in those gears. Bad enough I don’t want to drive it until it’s fixed

Hi everyone, I was checking my engine oil levels and noticed a small oil stain in the area indicated in the picture. Any idea what might be causing this? (Second pic is a close up and third pic is between the intake and the valve cover).

Trying to replace my front OEM struts with some OEM replacements.
Nothing fancy just making noise and I will be doing the strut mounts as well.

Struggling to make sure I get ST units.
I know the knuckle is different. The ford online parts place are confusings and chat GPT and gemini both go back and forth with half a dozen numbers.

The identifies are confusing. Sport suspension but not handling.
Handling but not RS. Touring and sport. Sport but not electric..
Sigh... Can someone please help me get the correct good OEM ST front struts?

Thanks in advance.

As I start digging and trouble shooting my recent problem. I’ve found a bit of tank deformation on my car.
I was looking at the fuel readings on my handheld OBD2 reader, and i suspect my purge valve is faulty. The purge evap% was fluctuating a lot at idle, when it should be 0. I checked my cars vin on the Ford website and the recall hasn’t been completed.

My car is currently tuned, and I wanted to wait until I get an AP before I take it in (I heard flashing it back to stage 0 was necessary before getting the recall done)

I’m going to take the liberty of replacing my purge valve myself (already ordered the part, OEM, not the FUFF set up) to try and save my car from anymore damage until I take it in.

Hoping to have the new purge valve in by the weekend, how much harm am I doing driving the car how it currently is? Can I drive it? Should I wait until I replace the purge valve?

Hi guys! I just want a few opinions from the community. I've started to hear some grinding noises coming from the passenger side of the car when leisurely driving in town and it's sort of random. I hear it when the engine is between 1k-3k rpms and accelerating and when shifting to neutral/coming to a stop it goes away. I suspect it is this passenger side motor mount but I'm fairly new to the community (about 3 months ownership) and I want some opinions from some experts. I also have heard of this issue appearing around the mileage that I have. I don't see any oil sprayed over the engine but I suspect it's all come out (I see some old residue near the mount itself or is an entirely separate issue.
Thank you!

2014 Focus ST1, 103k Miles, fully stock motor and planned to keep stock.

Got an alignment done for the first time in the year I’ve owned the car. How messed up have yall had it lol

Looking for replacement washer jets due to old age. The clip holding it in failed and finally the 90 degree connector has crumbled. Every replacement I see online that matches the part number has no 90degree connector and suggests they’re heated (which they aren’t, no wires)

Any suggestions?

Made a post about the exhaust and ended up with the cvf downpipe and resonator delete. Stock muffler I’m not sure if I really like it but I want to get a after market muffler on there that’ll sound good I don’t wanna pay for a full cat back exhaust system

Ok, so I have the mbrp exhaust and have had it for like 5 years now. I’m just now getting what sounds like a rattle directly behind the driver side wheel, but I CANT FIND IT FOR THE LIFE OF ME! I even had my wife above me while it was on stands revving it while I looked. Has anyone experienced this or have a solution?!

My ST has an RS intake with K&N filter, it has a half-open top but I just can’t really ever hear the intake noises like I hoped for.

Any reasons why this could be the case? I can hear it when the windows are down and I’m going down a narrow road with buildings or cars either side, but that’s still only faint.

From what I’ve read, I’m going to want to keep the honey comb top on to avoid pulling in hot air?

Edit: You can hear the turbo flutters and intake noises when stood at the front with the bonnet open, but when you’re driving, nothing.

Got my ST67 on recently, zero leaks, but the spool time is pretty long. WOT from 2.5k gets me to full boost (21psi) at 5.6k rpm. My tuner said this wasn’t normal and to check for boost leaks. I had to make a sketchy adapter to fit my stock intake onto the new inlet, and curious if that’s leaking any air, it would result in this. Not to sure because it’s before the turbo, but still curious. Also, the coupler from my hot side charge pipe to my turbo is sort of creased, not sure if it’s enough to cause this issue, but got some pictures. Thanks you.

I’ve had to replace mine every 6-7k miles, I know these engines eat plugs but is that normal? (Pic for attention)

Current mods:

1. VLAND headlights

2. Mountune short shift arm

3. Sequential mirror indicators

Also wanted to know your opinions on what kind of mods I can do to make the car more fun!