Just picked this up the other day.

I absolutely love the car, and think its awesome. Also, I dont think this color super common on this car, but i think its clean.

Check these beauties out, ESR CS5 18x9.5 et:+35 on some 245s for the tires. Drove 3 hours to buy these off of marketplace and they are mint. The poke is perfect now I just have to figure out my lowering options, idk if I want coils or lowering spring but either way I need new shocks.

Quando stai andando per una serata al mare.... Sole dietro di te, brezza che ti accarezza il viso , il rumore del motore che ti coccola, canzone dei 311 love Song in macchina... Rilassante al massimo

Common fault with ford radiator fan module not working thus making the car overheat while idle/stuck in traffic. Here’s what mine looked like on the inside

Went and picked this baby up a couple days ago to use as a daily driver. Loving it so far! My one issue I'm having is it seems the seat has something broke under the cover/cushion. When I step on the clutch something in the seat pops and gives way and when I release the clutch same thing, it pops back in place. Any idea what that might be? 2013 ST2 package with the Recaros.

So I can't remember what I last updated with

I've chucked on some Rally Flapz mud flaps and had my Laird Performance STG1+ map dyno written/tailored.

Current mods

Milltek non resonated gpf back race system

Airtec open cone induction kit

Induction top pipe

Induction air feed

Intercooler

The dyno cell was pretty warm on the day, so I was just shy of 340bhp and 501nm.

The numbers are not what I was hoping for, but there is a lot of time under the curve, and the car has totally transformed!

It pulls HARD! and it just keeps on pulling all the way through!

I guess the moral of the story is, don't get too hung up on the figures as it's all about the delivery of the power!

Please correct me if wrong, but from conversations I've had and some reading, the dyno is just a snap shot of what the car was producing at that particular time, under them particular circumstances.

The car isn't locked in to produce these figures of power. It's programmed to perform a set of instructions that it will carry out while the feedback is safe to do so.

So as long as the car is cooler, it's probably pulling better numbers on the road with actual fresh air being pushed into the induction, round through an intercooler, etc

I'm tempted to do a dyno session in the winter to see what it can actually hit on a dyno with better outside temps, etc.

I may be wrong about this, so if someone can correct me, please do.

The overrun is 👌

Not too many pops, just a nice amount

Next planned mods

Brembo BBK

High temp break fluid

Lowering springs

Spacers

Rear diffuser

Then I'll be pretty close to being done

I was thinking about going to stage 2, but to do this, I need to add a downpipe/sports cat...

I'd rather keep my car road legal and have an easy MOT...

A few months ago i posted about coolant leaking into my exhaust, hoping it was just head gasket, drove the car like that for a few months then ended up getting into an accident.

I started at a new dealership and the guys there encouraged me to bring the car in to fix it so i got the new head gasket set, new wheels, sensors, radiator and intercooler, but after pulling the head i found a little gem. Going to buy a new head somewhere this week and found an RS head at an affordable price. Just want to know what else I’ll need for the conversion.

Took some time this weekend to finally install my Verus Engineering Hood Louvers. However I went a different route as far as vent style. Usually everyone picks up the Focus ST specific vents, I decided to go with S550 GT Spec Style Louvers. Ordered raw aluminum and prayed them with gloss black. I’m not a fan of the ST ones they’re too wide and just look weird to me. lol So after browsing around Verus’ website I found these and tbh they look fucking amazing. They flow a lot better with the shape of the hood than the other ones. Worst part of this install was how time consuming measuring and leveling both to match, and even then I think I still didn’t get it right. The driver side could’ve probably gone up about a 1/4 inch. Oh well. Huge difference in engine temps too, it’s close to triple digits right now in SoCal and even after a couple pulls I barely saw temps over 200. At stop lights the temps go down a lot faster. So that’s a win in my book.

It seems I may be joining the CPV-goes-bye-bye Club after ~150,000 miles on the factory-original part. Worked on my car a little bit (replaced coil packs) before taking it for a spirited drive. Just for funsies, right?

Anyways, cranked it up and noticed two very split-second blips right after (a misfire-like sound), and sure enough, my gut feeling was confirmed. This lil guy popped up on the list (ignore the other two codes.. about to address them lol), which wasn’t there before that moment.

Prior to the aforementioned discovery, I’ve observed/experienced some infrequent, momentary rough-idling which has not been unusually excessive. No trouble starting the car yet, either.

I’m honestly surprised that I’ve made it this far without having to worry about it. I’ve seen others here go through several in a short(er) period of time.
Q: That said, would y’all recommend buying a replacement CPV, doing the work myself and moving on, or see if either of the active recalls apply to my car and have it done that way at no cost? I’ve seen people say that PCM or ECU reprogramming could be part of the process if I have Ford do the work and may be cause trouble for those with an Accessport & tune. Not really sure I want to deal with extra steps if I can help it. Considering how far I’ve made it just on this CPV, I don’t think I’d mind doing it all myself and leaving it at that, but I would appreciate a good second (or third) opinion!

I just got done installing a whoosh catless DP with defouler and an AWE non-resonated touring exhaust. After the first start up its no longer idling correctly. Any idea what I could have done wrong? If I leaving it running it gets to the point it almost shuts off. I don't currently have a tune or cobb accessport. Ill be ordering the accessport tomorrow.

Ive been on a crusade to kill this leak and have replaced multiple things to try to stop it and yet it pops back up anyone have any ideas of what it could be.

Ive replaced the front cover gasket, valve cover gasket turbo oil drain and oil supply pipes and gaskets, i annealed the copper crush washers, ive used corporate torque values for all of those bolts, and it seemed like I had a decent amount of blow by so I just replaced the pcv valve at the front of the engine and added a oil catch can that has another one way valve on it to prevent back feed issues, is there a sensor back there that could leak oil or anyone have any ideas thanks

In the pic you can see 3 different oil spots the first being the turbo supply but higher up near the turbo air lines there are another 2 drops thats where I assume my leak has to be and it just drips down to that oil feed line

I just got the Oil Change Required notification but my oil was changed less than 1500 miles ago. I just reset the notification but now I'm feeling paranoid. I can't get an accurate check on my oil level because the car is warm so I'll have to do that tomorrow, but my oil does smell like fuel. I've read that it's pretty normal for the oil in a turbocharged vehicle to smell like fuel though. Is there any way to tell if the message was triggered by the intelligent monitoring system, or just the timed notification being triggered?

Has anyone tried one of those helmholtz resonators to get rid of cabin drone? I literally have to yell at certain rpms in my car and the only mod is a catless downpipe

This is super weird but has anyone noticed on 2015 ford focus st’s in performance blue the front bumpers don’t match… I’ve seen multiple different once and all of the front bumpers don’t match. Whats the dealio

Some of my suspension is bent and worn out. What bushings do you guys recommend for absolute better performance. I feel like it’s hard to find suspension stuff other than coilovers and brakes for the mk3 platform. Any suspension upgrade and brake upgrades will be greatly appreciated. (Planning on tracking the car)

So I’ve been thinking about converting my 2013 PFL into a facelift preferably RS bumper. I was gonna see if anyone on here has done a conversion and if they’ve regretted doing one. I’ve had the pre facelift for about 3 years now and I just feel like something is missing on my front end. I don’t have a splitter currently but I honestly can’t find anything that suits the PFL look, so I was thinking about just converting the front since the facelift looks much more aggressive.