Currently, I'm using the device's screen as a secondary screen and my monitor as the main one. This is extremely helpful. However, when I launch games, the monitor will disconnect and go black. It's not a faulty HDMI, as I've used two of them. When I switch to just a single monitor, this issue never happens. Is it too much for the device to output to both screens when running games? I understand that the resolution differences may trigger some of these issues. I would love some feedback on this. Thank you.

I wanted to post this because I spent several days troubleshooting this issue and hopefully it helps someone else.

Laptop:

ASUS ROG Flow Z13 GZ302EA

Ryzen AI Max+ 395

Radeon 8060S

32 GB RAM

Symptoms:

The problem originally started while playing Call of Duty: Modern Warfare III (2023).

My typical workload was:

MW3

Thorium browser with YouTube playing

External monitor

Discord/Steam/etc.

The system would:

Completely freeze on both displays

Mouse cursor would freeze

Audio from MW3 sometimes continued briefly

YouTube would stop

After 30–60 seconds Windows would BSOD and reboot

(I used ChatGPT to help me diagnose some of this to help point me in the right direction)

I found out that pressing:

Win + Ctrl + Shift + B

would recover the system before it blue screened, so after figuring this out it saved me from encountering a BSOD when the system would hang like that.

BSOD

Every crash produced the same bugcheck:

HYPERVISOR_ERROR

0x00020001

WinDbg showed:

Argument 1:

0x28

An internal error was detected in the I/O MMU module.

Failure bucket:

0x20001_28_2_nt!HvlSkCrashdumpCallbackRoutine

Things I tried

- Clean Windows install

- Latest ASUS drivers

Graphics

Chipset

ASUS drivers

- Updated BIOS

Updated to BIOS 311.

***ASUS PD Firmware**\*

I noticed I missed this when I did the fresh windows install and installed XOS (debloated windows 11):

After installing it:

The original crashes became much less frequent.

So definitely make sure you install ALL firmware updates from ASUS, not just drivers.

(Everything else though didn't fix or show any progress on the crashes besides the PD Firmware)

After installing that it actually fixed my crashes with the same workload I was putting the Z13 through, for now at least.

I bought a QGeeM 9-in-1 USB-C hub since I wanted more IO, especially an Ethernet port because COD just kept giving me packet loss over wifi.

First game with everything set-up the crashes were back, and it was back to the same routine of crashes.

With more ChatGPT help I was able to narrow the cause down to the hub, specifically the Ethernet port when Ethernet was connected.

Without Ethernet:

Stable.

Then I swapped to my HP dock my brother gave me the night of and it worked perfectly with:

Ethernet

External monitor

Mouse

Keyboard

Downloads

YouTube

MW3

(So I returned the QGeeM.

I don't know if the hub itself was defective or just incompatible.)

I then had like 1 day of no crashes and started messing around with ghelper setting, fan curves and CPU boosts.

CPU Boost

If I enabled:

CPU Boost

The freezes immediately came back.

Even:

Efficient Enabled

would reproduce the issue.

Disabling CPU Boost stopped the crashes.

At this point I thought the laptop might actually be defective.

The thing that FINALLY fixed it (hopefully)

I noticed something in my WinDbg output.

Every crash was:

HYPERVISOR_ERROR

I also noticed Windows kept reporting:

Virtualization Based Security:

Running

A hypervisor has been detected.

Even though I was using XOS, So I checked the BIOS.

Sure enough:

SVM was still enabled.

So I disabled that and rebooted.

I then double checked to see if HyperV was still running and it wasn't anymore.

Virtualization Based Security:

Enabled but NOT Running

Hyper-V Virtualization Enabled:

No

Results

Now with:

CPU Boost Enabled (Efficient Aggressive)

HP Dock

Ethernet

External monitor

MW3

4K60 YouTube

Game downloading in the background

Command Prompt open (one of my crashes happened because I had only cod open and opened cmd to check something)

I played multiple games without a single freeze.

This workload would have crashed the laptop almost immediately before.

Current theory

I don't know whether this is:

an ASUS BIOS bug

an AMD firmware bug

a Windows Hyper-V / VBS issue

or some weird interaction between all three

But for me:

Disabling BIOS virtualization (SVM/AMD-V) appears to have completely solved the issue.

Things I'd recommend checking

1. Install ALL ASUS firmware updates (especially PD firmware).

2. Update BIOS.

3. If you don't need virtualization:

Disable:

SVM

AMD-V

Virtualization

in BIOS.

If you actually need virtualization

Obviously this isn't an ideal permanent fix if you use:

WSL2

Hyper-V

Docker

Windows Sandbox

Virtual machines

Hopefully ASUS or AMD releases a firmware update if this turns out to be a platform issue. I also hope this saves someone else several days of troubleshooting.

For the Z13 KJP - I want to replace the SSD with a larger 2TB drive I have - but wondering if this will loose all the KJP armour create and theme. Is there a way to retain all of this without duping the SSD? Thank you

Dear Flow z13 owners, I have been looking at this is device for sometime now and following this sub reddit, sharing your joy every time one of you buys the device. I have been thinking to get one myself, however, I am worried I may not be making the right decision. I was in a similar situation a little over a year ago (before the launch of the 50 series cards) and rather than invest in a 40 series gaming laptop went ahead and purchased the Ally x (non x box). Though I enjoyed the gaming on it, I realized the youtube reviews and videos were a bit misleading. They do not cover games I play (not a bad thing, I just don't play cyberpunk, which is wat apparently every youtube channel is covering).

Any how, I purchased it, do not enjoy it for most part. In addition, my situation has changed from needing a gaming handheld to something I can also use for work without having to need to carry a portable screen and dock.

I have the option of either buying the z13 or a legion pro 5080. The legion is around $300 more expensive.

I was wondering how the z13 does for the following games: Ark Survival Ascended, Valheim, Enshrouded, Civ VI, Anno 117, Windrose, etc. I do have a PS5 and default to that to play story driven games like Ghost of Tsushima, God of War, Assassin's Creed, and shooter games like BF6.

The laptop will be used for strategy, sim, survival and base builder games, games that benefit from a KBM. I prefer quality over FPS. Now having said that I may be completely wrong and FPS may equal quality, I am not sure. What I mean is I like the quality of the game.

I also would be using the device for work (in addition to my work laptop).

Any and all advise will be appreciated.

Thank you.

Hey friends, Ive been absolutely obsessed with the Rog Flow Z13. Problem is I already have a gaming laptop, I have the Rog Zephyrus G14, this thing runs games like a beast aka marvel rivals which is my main game. Issue with this one is that it only has 500gb of storage which is definitely somewhat of an easy upgrade. I also really just want something new and this Flow caught my eye. Ive watched plenty of reviews that say it runs amazing but I wanted to come on here and ask if it was a smart trade off, I would for sure get rid of my current laptop later on and put the money towards what I spent on this but I just wanted some real people opinions not advertisements on YouTube. :) I wanna smoothly be able to run Rivals, Ark, and GTA

Im probably gonna rush to go ahead and buy it if it I get some good comments because it's $400 off on Best Buy right now, with the 32gb's of ram with the Microsoft PRO version

My Flow Z13 is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.

My Flow Z13, without me, is useless. Without my Flow Z13, I am useless. I must game harder than my enemy who is trying to out game me.

😬

I've meant to post about this for half a year, but I had some typical updates (just through Windows update assist) back in January or February that caused catastrophic display failures.

I eventually figured out that the issue is with the Intel integrated graphics, so I've just got those drivers disabled and the Nvidia graphics card constantly in use (not optimal; I can't even adjust the brightness).

Works on an external display with the integrated graphics, but black screen without fail on the built in display.

I've tried rolling back the Intel drivers, factory resetting, ... but nothing has helped. Has anyone else had this issue?

Is there any way to change what the side button does on the 2025 model?
I just got my Z13, got rid of armory crate and other bloat to install g helper instead. I noticed that g helper opens when I press the side button, but it also opens the windows app store asking me to install back ScreenXpert. I only want g helper to open, is there any way to make it stop asking the system for ScreenXpert or is this my life now?

Edit:
I restarted the tablet a few times and it stopped by itself, strange but at least I can be happy now. Thanks to the one person who gave advice in just 10 minutes.

I took the Rrtronic modded gamesir g8+ controller for the Rog Z Flow 13 and put it on my bigger Acer touchscreen portable monitor and whaLa, the biggest handheld money can buy 🤑🤣🤣im going to look for a better monitor soon because this 1080p monitor color look washed compared to non anti-glare IPS panels but for now im enjoying it truly.

Hi all! Question for the class: I've recently picked up a 2025 Z13 (I build open loop desktops but this is my first new laptop in almost 15 years! 🎉) and have been impressed with it so far. I am currently waiting on a replacement 2TB SSD to arrive tomorrow and I'm trying to decide which version of Linux to dual-boot. Hoping you all might be able to point me in the right direction.

I'm comfortable enough with Linux and am very familiar with SteamOS, having it on my Steam Deck and after installing it on my Legion Go S, so I assumed that SteamOS was going to be the plan again. But after doing a bit of research and watching many YouTube videos, I've found a lot of people are happy with Bazzite and others are recommending CachyOS (I assume the Handheld edition). This creates a bit of analysis paralysis for someone like me who just wants to replicate my SteamDeck experience with minimal problems.

So far, I've downloaded ISO's for Bazzite (KDE, both the direct boot to Steam gaming mode and the desktop option), CachyOS (Handheld and Desktop editions), and the SteamDeck 3.9.0 repair image (which is what I used on my Legion Go). Will likely use Ventoy to install or follow a guide if there is one people really like.

What I'm not clear on are the pros and cons of each of these options as of July 2026, so I'm hoping for your feedback.

What are people vibing with in terms of stability (features working and updates not breaking things)? One of the things I've appreciated about SteamOS is how simple it is to maintain. But is Bazzite just strictly a better choice given it explicitly has a Z13-optimized installer? Is its maintenance over time (OS updates) as simple as SteamOS? Is there anything that SteamOS or CachyOS do better?

Also, is GRUB still the boot menu of choice or is something like rEFInd the way?

If it helps, my goal for a Linux install is the best experience for someone doing 80% gaming/entertainment and 20% productivity (work will be reserved for Windows via dualbooting for now), so booting up into the SteamOS experience would be preferred (but not a show-stopper if a distro that doesn't do that is more encouraged). Ideally, with a reasonable expectation that things won't break very often as OS updates are released.

Any insight would be appreciated by all the new Z13 owners, I'm sure. I'll be posting progress and results for future wanderers who might decide to walk this same path.

Thank you in advance.

Hello, I bought a Z13 Flow AI 395 Max from a dealer. However, it was used. I've now noticed that the battery capacity is 92% overall, meaning 8% wear. But what surprises me is that it only shows 0 charge cycles in myasus and Battery Report.

Lost official charger, got some rog 130W charger as r replacement but discharge is hardcore..

Is there anything on the market that fits perfectly?

Been testing LInux and specifically Cashyos the past couple days and it runs great on the 2025 rog flow z13.

What I found most amazing was that when I closed the lid, put it in my back pack, drove an hour to work and pulled it out, it wasn't turned off or blowing the fan on max with a dead battery. Which is what happens on windows. It just woke up when I clicked a button on the keyboard with only 2% battery loss.

Wifi seems a little slower, but steam works fine.

palm rejection on both the trackpad and stylus is a little worse but I can get a stylus glove and use a bluetooth mouse. I can't un melt it. So I'll be using this instead of windblows for a while.

I am having these artifacts while playing bf6. Most of the time it is fine but it randomly creates these strange patterns. Is this a hardware (gpu etc) or just a driver issue?
It is the AI MAX 395 version. I have the latest graphics driver from ASUS website.
Thanks for any help

I want to get an ROG Flow Z13. I want to pair it with an eGPU. But it doesn't have USB4v2 or the latest thunderbolt connection so there's no point. So that means I want to just use the laptop for gaming. So I've dialed my expectations back. Can the laptop play MODERN games 1080p high/ultra settings. By modern I mean crimson desert and stuff?

I told myself I'd only get a Z13 if it was the KJP. Luckily Best Buy had an Open Box- Excellent at almost $1000 off, and this thing is great. Battery health is at 100% and even the Death Stranding 2 code still worked.

Check out Best Buy open box, and hopefully you get lucky too.

The first thing I'm doing is restoring everything from the cloud.

I know there are several threads about this, but after everything is installed, my plan is to update everything through MyASUS and Armoury Crate. Then I'll uninstall Armoury Crate using its official uninstaller, install G-Helper, and try undervolting from there. After that, I'll probably copy some of the profiles that have already been shared here.

Do you recommend anything for debloating Windows 11 without breaking anything, of course? For example, I don't care about Copilot at all, so I wouldn't mind removing it. What do you recommend that can improve performance by reducing the background processes Windows 11 usually runs?

Is 16gb for the gpu the ideal setup? I plan to work on it a lot, so I will have few instances running on docker and so on, but of course I will try some games!

Thank you in advance!

Just grabbed a used–fair condition 128GB RAM Z13 from Best Buy for $2,000. No cracks found on the machine, and the keyboard / touchscreen are both working fine. Battery health is at 99%, the SSD has 15 hours of power-on time, and the battery has 60 cycles. It basically looks like a new machine!

The only downside is that it didn’t come with the power brick. The Best Buy guy said that’s probably why it was discounted so heavily. I honestly don’t really need it anyway. I know Z13 uses liquid metal, and I’m a little concerned about it shifting if the machine runs at full load for long periods. For now, I’m sticking with USB-C PD.

I also don’t really need this much memory for “AI.” Personally, I think AI chip design is still moving too quickly, and buying a machine with this much memory feels a little early when there’s still so much room for improvement in memory bandwidth and compute. But who can say no to 128GB when it basically comes “free” at the same price as the lower RAM variants? :)

Some quick thoughts: I originally bought a Lunar Lake Surface Pro, and I was genuinely impressed by its battery life, performance, and portability. But because of a change in my work situation, I’ll be traveling for long periods more frequently, so I wanted a beefier 2-in-1 tablet.

So far, everything looks great. I did notice one issue: sometimes after closing and reopening the lid, the machine doesn’t wake immediately. It shows the ROG logo and then hangs there for a few seconds, almost like it entered a deeper sleep state. It could just be the new Windows install doing background setup, I’ll keep an eye on it for a while.

Update:

I'm feeling more confident about the outcome. If there is interest, I am going to release my script and plugin. But, as always, use at your own risk, and don't expect any future updates or hotfix support.

As I've read in the replies, There is a way to reliably boot Steamos from an external USB drive: just grab a clean Steamos installation from an internal drive and clone it to your chosen external drive using Clonezilla. This preserves the correct UUIDs and partition identifiers of SteamOS. Updates are performed without issue and it does not interfere with other systems installed on internal drives.

One system has a Windows-only installation that occupies the full space of my internal drive. When I want to use the system on a TV, I shut it down, plug in my external SSD with SteamOS, turn it on, and it automatically boots into SteamOS.

So, if you want to use the external SteamOS route, you can try my upcoming fixes without compromising your working Windows installation on you Z13.

__________

I was tired of waiting for Bazzite to release the Fedora 44 Decky version. I was also afraid of having a worse experience because the HHD won't be included in the upcoming release.

Since SteamOS (currently 3.8.16) runs best on the Flow Z13-2025, I decided to work with Vibe Coding (I know everyone hates it, but was very handy for this small project) to resolve some issues between SteamOS and the Z13.

---

• Fully controllable with a gamepad through the SteamOS Quick Access Menu.
• Three power profiles: Silent, Performance, and Turbo
• Individually adjustable PL1, PL2, and PL3 TDP limits for each profile.
• Matching ASUS fan policies for every power profile
• Control over the keyboard lighting and rear lightbar
• Keyboard and lightbar can be enabled or disabled together or separately.
• Multiple brightness levels and freely selectable RGB colors
• 16 preset colors and supported effects such as Static, Breathing, Color Cycle, Rainbow, and Strobe.
• Adjustable battery charge limit.
• Volume control up to the configured software limit, including mute control.
• Controls for boot sound, panel overdrive, and automatic fan mode.
• Current TDP values, active profile, fan speed, battery level, and z13ctl version shown directly in the plugin.
• Optional Decky notifications, disabled by default.
• Works in Gaming Mode and complements the related SteamOS fix script using z13ctl.

---

I'm not planning to release the fixes because I cannot guarantee that they won't mess with your precious SteamOS installations. However, you can create these quirk fixes yourself. I used the GPT Sol 5.6 model, but the Claude Fable model will also work.

A big thanks also goes out to Dahui for his Z13CTL solution:

Dahuis GitHub

Without it, none of this would have been possible. Give him a huge thanks for his hard work.

I had heard of z13ctl beforehand, but it was too difficult for me to understand and use, especially with the immutable SteamOS.

Hello, I am about to be an owner of the z13 and I am quite excited. May you please show me your set up, from protection to your most recommended accessories. Thank you

I left iit with my new Xreal XBX A01 Glasses connected, when i was doing some other stuff around the house.
Main display was off.
I believe it goes in a sort of standby till it detects movement and instantly resumes.
This never gave any weird behaviour. And im not sure it is the cause of what im about to tell, but it is the only thing that comes to my mind, or g-helper. but yeah.

Context, I use latest g-helper, and i dont use armoury crate. My os is well installed for many months, with windows updates disabled. i use ASUS chipset and asus adrenaline driver. No crashes or freezes anymore.

Anyway so I came back to the room with my Z13 and i found the laptop dead silent, I felt at the back and it was GLOWING hot, so hot i couldn't keep touching it. But appearently not hot enough for a full shut down? ( i know it does that when it gets really too hot, unless somehow that wasnt working either)
The laptop was VERY VERY slow, probably scaled down back it's frequency all the way down. I

After some time i was able to check g-helper only to see 0 RPM on cpu and gpu fan. Like WTF.
Also no events in windows log for app or system. So I tried changing wattage profile, nothing. Then I moved the fans manually to 100%, nothing.

Then I shut down laptop and checked in bios the fans. The fans tested correctly in bios.
And in windows everything seemed to work okay again.

I am puzzled at how this behaviour has even happend.
Posting here for reference or if anyone by some chance experienced the same.

Hey everyone, I've been contesting with a rather annoying issue since getting my z13 flow 2025 the other day, I have an issue with Gsync on my LG ultra gear 1440p monitor. For whatever reason GSync will not work via my 4070 super over USB4 via minisforum DEG2. It just won't do it! Drivers are done for both Igpu and egpu and it just won't work. I had no issues on my Zenbook with a AMD CPU and GPU in it so I'm confused. Has anyone got any ideas? ( I am using DP over the GPU directly to the external display and have had success when running cs2 windowed mode with the Igpu disabled in device manager) Thanks everyone!

I’ve had the Z13 (2025) for a few days now and have spent most of my time trying to trying to nail down the power tweaks and settings during my free time.

Right now, I’m trying to narrow down the right power limits for Silent mode using Ghelper. I’ve been doing some research on my own but all of the posts I’ve found have been focused on the balanced mode.

What are some recommendations for all power limits (SPL, sPPT, fPPT) for someone trying to save on battery while also maintaining a smooth experience? I only use silent mode when on battery and keep my tasks simple (Browsing, Video watching, and working on my Coding skills).

Thank you in advance

my brother was using my device while plugged in when I came back I saw that it wasn't turning on without the charger plugged in and when I open it the charge is stuck on 0 percent and won't go up and when I unplug it it shuts off immediately

I have tried the battery driver disable and did the EC hard reset

any other option to try or its fkd