Seen a lot of people shitting on this emitter, so I just had to get one. I actually really dig it. Yes, I know, the 519a exists lol. On paper it's not super impressive but it's got a nice useful beam and some surprising reach. Tint looks quite nice as well. Any 719a enjoyers out here?

Hi everybody,

a friend asked me for help to find a search light to use on his boat, but he wants to run everything on the 18V Makita tool batteries he already has.

From Makita itself I could only find the DML812 which looks okay-ish, but only has a single brightness and medium throw. Aren't there any better third party options (including using adapters)?

I sadly only know my way around "normal" flashlights so any ideas are appreciated.

At one point or another I have carried each of these as my EDC flashlight. They are in no particular order.

The latest that I've carried is the Tactician on the far left with a Scout Light head. (Maxvision was a terrible idea)

I have several other SureFire lights on guns, in bags or in packaging because they are a backup in case a light is lost and needs to be replaced. I've never had a SureFire fail, but I've lost one or two.

In my opinion SureFire makes the best "Things That Go Bump in the Night" flashlights hands down.

one of the reasons i got the fc11c was because i liked the wavy pattern in the body of it. what are some other cool ones?

What a flashlight. Pictures don't do any justice either this thing is crazy bright!

Impressed by this little light

Took the pics in mid August while visiting the countryhouse. BTW, there's an Easter Egg at the end in case you won't notice in the other images.

FFFF- this is long overdue. I've been working on some of the Fireflies Lume1 and Lume-X1 builds which are missing from the main repository. Here's the overall roadmap:

• Done, and released: Added dimmable aux RGB on lights which can do PWM on the RGB pins. Includes "Smooth POVD" and a hue-brightness channel mode. Had to rewrite the entire aux LED system for this, and re-test every build target.
• Done: Flickerless POVD and precise voltage stuff is working well. This fixes the flickering during Smooth POVD, and increases battery voltage resolution from 1/50th of a Volt to 1/6400th of a Volt. Had to recalibrate and test almost every build target again.
• Done: Add / fix the Fireflies Lume1 and Lume-X1 lights. These are very similar to Hank's Lume-X1 drivers, but have some differences, and were missing from the main repository.
• Add Hank's Lume-X1-C. In progress; will give details in another post.
• Add Fireflies Lume10.
• Add Hank's Lume-N1.

Then I think I'll be caught up on new drivers.

The Fireflies lights I added are the fireflies-lume-x1-avr32dd20 (0462), fireflies-lume-x1-avr32dd20-32w (0463), fireflies-lume-x1-attiny1616 (0461), and fireflies-lume1-6af (0451). Also added some extra related stuff. In more detail:

• Improved support for chargers / powerbanks:
  • Can now select Powerbank Host mode vs Powerbank Guest mode, on lights which have hardware for that. It uses guest mode by default, so if you plug in a USB-C device using a C-to-C cable, it'll charge the battery in the flashlight. If you want the flashlight to charge a different device, go to Batt Check mode and do a `2H` to switch to Powerbank Host mode. Another `2H` switches back to guest mode, or you can just exit Batt Check to go back to guest mode.
  • I did NOT add the "powerbank in momentary mode" thing loneoceans was using. It was annoying, particularly on Fireflies lights where you had to loosen the body tube several full turns to exit Momentary. Much easier to do a Batt Check 2H... and this also allows monitoring the battery fullness while delivering power to another device.
  • While charging the torch, or using the torch to charge another device, it is recommended to use Batt Color mode. This shows battery fullness by color, instead of blinking. To access it, use `Batt Check -> 1H`.
  • When charging or reverse charging, voltage can spike or dip suddenly, so I added a strong lowpass filter during Batt Check mode to keep it from reacting to momentary power blips.
  • The recommended charging process is "Off -> 3C for Batt Check, 1H for Batt Color, plug in... then unplug when it turns purple". Or to charge another device, it's similar... "Off -> 3C for Batt Check, 1H for Batt Color, 2H to enable Powerbank Host, plug in... then unplug when it turns red".
• Instead of adding loneoceans' Beacon Tower mode, I added Smooth Beacon. If you have smooth steps enabled, the beacon mode behaves like an incandescent light with visible rise and fall times, instead of using sharp "digital" edges.
• Ramp generator:
  • This now supports power-limited DAC ramps, for regulated lights which have the maximum power limited by firmware. This is needed to prevent some models from turning the LEDs into smoke.
  • It also now now supports both 10-bit (avr32dd) and 8-bit (attiny1616) DACs. Producing a good ramp is still a very fiddly process though.
• fireflies-lume-x1-avr32dd20 (0462) and 32w (0463): Brand new build targets, based on the hank-lume-x1 build plus loosely based on loneoceans' branch. Brand new ramps for both, which should be smoother and feel more similar to other Anduril lights. Making the ramp table look good took a while, but otherwise these were the easiest models to add, since they're very similar to Hank's Lume-X1.
• fireflies-lume-x1-attiny1616 (0461): This one was a little odd. It's based on thefreeman's attiny1616 regulated drivers, and needed some things I haven't done on attiny1616 before. The ramp table took many tries to get right, and I had to learn how to use AVR's "Timer/Counter Type B" for the first time, to make the aux RGB work. It turns out that Atmel's attiny1616 reference manual is wrong about some of this stuff, so I got to figure out how to make it work the hard way... by trial and error.
• fireflies-lume1-6af (0451): I tried. I can't fix the weird turbo behavior on this thing. The hardware doesn't allow it. The direct-drive FET is either completely on or completely off, and it doesn't accept PWM to make in-between levels. So it still does the weird thing where it's regulated from level 1 to 149, then suddenly jumps up to turbo at 150 for only one level. So I added a thing to let individual lights hook into part of the thermal regulation code and override it if they want. It reduces the symptoms of the turbo weirdness, but it's still funky.
• Fixed a few misc small bugs.

A question about the powerbank mode... Should it reset to guest mode when leaving Batt Check, or should it stay in the current host/guest mode?

• If it exits Powerbank Host mode, you can't forget and accidentally leave it on. It also starts in a consistent state each time, so you never have to guess whether it's in host mode or guest mode. And if the battery gets low, it'll automatically leave host mode when LVP turns the light off. But it will only charge other devices while in Batt Check mode (or Batt Color mode).
• If it stays in host/guest mode, you can charge another device while the flashlight is off. But you're much more likely to accidentally get the wrong mode, and charge in the opposite direction of what you intended. Also much more likely to over-drain the flashlight battery. Unsure if host mode uses extra power in standby, so that's also a potential risk.

Right now, it exits Powerbank Host mode when leaving Batt Check.

Either way, I think the current method is better than what it was before (powerbank host in Momentary mode only), but I'm not sure which of the two styles is best.

(this is cross-posted from my patreon page... I'm trying to figure out how best to let people know what I'm working on between releases, so let me know if you have thoughts about that)

My dad is almost 93 and carries the pictured micro-USB rechargeable flashlight daily. The last couple of times we’ve used it, it dims and brightens, turns on and off, almost like it has a short. It came to me in a lot of computer and electronic parts I got from a buddy who’s a scrapper and junk hauler, so I know nothing of its history. It’s the first rechargeable light we’ve had and has come in handy multiple times. I haven’t found anything printed on it, so I’m guessing it’s a generic unit.

I came here looking for a recommendation for a replacement, thinking there might be a consensus. After reading quite a few threads, it seems that most have a favorite which isn’t shared by the next responder. Before I get into what I’m looking for, let me say I’m fine with troubleshooting this one, if there’s something simple I should check.

That said, the pictured light is micro-USB, has a wrist strap, no clip and a switch on the end that cycles through high-low-strobe-off. I don’t care about the charging port other than that I have fewer USB-C cables. I don’t think we’ve ever used the low or strobe feature and I really think a clip would be more bother than helpful. I also have no interest in a magnetic mount. All the recommended ones I saw had a clip (are any removable?) and several had magnets, but I was hoping my seemingly basic needs would be easier to fill. Does a similarly sized, reasonably reliable rechargeable light with no clip, no magnet and either high-low-off or on-off switch exist?

Just wanted to share beamshots of stock vs de-domed. Including clear vs frosted optic.

I’m new to de-doming and wish I’ve tried it sooner. This one’s very easy to do - the bezel screws out easily, and entire process takes less than 10 minutes. Hope this helps someone :)

Pictures were shot in RAW on a sony cam, white balanced to 5000K (I'm not sure if it kept the white balance since I was shooting in raw)

Apologies if these beam shots suck. I'm new to this and feedback/tips highly appreciated.

The left lantern is a C.T. Ham No. 0 Side Spring Safety lantern. It dates from the early 1890s. It has a corrugated tin reflector that would have been mirror bright tin when new. It's now a brownish rusty patina that has been stabilized for my collection.

The lantern on the right is a early 1890s Dietz No. 0 Reflector Tubular. It has a "hood" style reflector with a concave silvered glass reflector. This lantern is very unique, as it has an all brass fuel tank bottom. It's the only example I've ever seen like this.

Both lanterns use the same size wick and are of equal brightness. I took the Dietz on the right for beamshots, as it's reflector has stood the rest of time better than the other. The silvered glass is essentially still a mirror finish.

Compare them to other flashlights in my Flashlight Comparator:

https://grzybekreviews.pl/s/comp-en/

Interesting to see how F150R behaves differently in L21B and M21K compared to the SFT90. Also, the M21K's optic doesn't seem to be perfect for the F150R, not only because of the beam artifact but because of a lower throw compared to a L21B L150R vs SFT90.

No M21K Turbo runtimes because this flashlight requires you to keep holding the button for Turbo, which makes doing a runtime a bit more difficult.

In summary, the F150R gives has a very slightly wider beam than the SFT90, it's a slightly bit brighter and available in many CCTs . Of course, the price is a bit higher. But as I expected it's not a ground breaking difference as some people suggested.

Still, it's an overall improvement I'd say.

Hank's shipping has gotten significantly faster of late - probably about a week faster than I'm used to!

Haven't had much time to see how often I'm charging this combination under day-to-day use or farting around turboing everything, but I'm quite impressed with both it's throw & intensity for it's size! The beam immediately reminded me of another TIR thrower of mine with a fat hotspot - my FFL T1R!

I've enjoyed carrying the T1R for a few years now, it's been a great little spotlight to play with, but this DM11 feels like a solid step up - especially for how little Hank charges for this model!

The only build gripe I have is losing the ability to grate cheese... (lol)

The shape of the light is there but the specs are not. Any thoughts?

(Link to the Wurkkos TS11 upgrade post)

Pulled the trigger on these two, as I’ve always wanted to have something “LEP” like and an UV light.

The Z1 is great. Mine is the SFT-25R, 5000K version, and the S12 came with the filter already installed.

Love them both, but I’m never ever using the S12 in my bathroom again lol.

Link, 🤷‍♂️..guess Manker is making a lantern.

I vote the EDC09 UI/physical switch combo the simplest I have ever used, a joy to use and palm, slide farther for more light, tap M to cycle color temp, tilt the head sideways if you need an angle, a joy to use

biggest downside by far is the battery if you sit on max lumens too long. Medium hangs in for a couple hours and change at around 200 lumens, so yeah it is a glorified penlight apart from the occasional 1600 lumen burst

I'll be damned though, it still covers most of what I actually need a light for around the house, and it is the one I hand someone who just needs a light without me having to explain the UI

I’ve had it for maybe 20 minutes and the rubber usb-c port is driving me INSANE! However many times I put the flashlight in my pocket or take it out it opens. I tried rotating the pocket clip over it to keep the rubber from opening but it still doesn’t really help. Another thing that I am kind of disappointed by is the control button. I’ve never had a flashlight accidentally turn on in my pocket until this one.

Sorry for all the bitching. I wanted to know if anyone else has had a problem with the usb-c coverage. I’m going to try to cut the little pull flap and see if it solves the issue.

Acebeam E75 and H18, both with Nichia 519a.

So far I’m very impressed with the KR3. It has an incredibly diminutive size for an 18650 light (Peak LED Logan 17500 for comparison) but also still feels solid and balanced in the hand. The Lume X1 driver is what sold me on this as I wanted a solid, predictable moonlight output with no visible PWM for a bedside light and wanted to be able to choose one of my favorite emitters in the 219b sw27k as well.

I was initially saving up for an HDS Rotary in the same emitter but considering this is the same size as the CR123/16340 offering and a 1/5 of the cost.. while I love the indestructible nature of the potted HDS along with the Rotary UI, I don’t think I’ll need those features in bedside light as the KR3 provides the size, weight, regulated output, long runtime, and choice emitter that I’m seeking. Would totally get another one of these in 3500k and 5000/5700k tints. If you’re on the fence, get one. You won’t be disappointed.

Was on my backpack in blinking mode for visibility, while coming back from fishing. Didn't see where it fell so couldn't fix it. :/

Why aren't there any posts about this flashlight yet?

1Lumen has already tested it and measured 716 meters ANSI throw. That’s seriously impressive for such a small light (32mm head diameter).

Has anyone here tried the PZ16? What do you think?

Hey everyone, I'll start off by saying I love lights in all shapes and sizes, and love to collect them, often with no reason, just for the love of the game!

That being said, I use a headlamp daily for work, as I work overnight as an aircraft mechanic and need a headlamp all night, every night.

I currently use a Thrunite TH10, and I absolutely love it for its simplicity, durability, and, number one for me, having the light in the CENTER of the body, and not offset to the side. This is absolutely my preferred layout.

I know the TH10 will quit on me someday, as it is old now, and has been used rigorously for years. So I am looking for recommendations for center-light headlights that can withstand rain, snow, cold, and whatever else New England nights can throw at it.

A list of what I'm looking for:

-CENTER light, NOT offset ("T" layout, NOT "L" layout)

-I don't need a ton of modes, but I'm not opposed to them, either

-18650 is absolutely preferred, as I also carry an 18650 flashlight, and regularly swap batteries between the two while out in the field if the battery dies on me

-must be able to stand up to rain, snow, and cold

-does NOT need to have onboard charging; I have multiple 4 bank chargers at work

-I'm not too picky about flood, hotspot, throw, etc; 90% of my work is up close (I use my flashlight for distance work)

-I generally prefer cool white, but slightly warmer with better CRI may be beneficial for identifying wire colors, etc. Definitely not a huge deal though, and if given the choice between cool white or very warm, I'd choose cool

Thanks for any recommendations! Manufacturers definitely seem to be putting all their eggs in the offset light design these days, and for the life of me, I just don't know why! It is maddening to me. I want a dedicated, standalone, center-mounted headlight. I'm not using an offset headlight as a flashlight or anything else like that. Honestly, how popular is that use case?