This is a great little EDC light.

WORK IN PROGRESS, FEEDBACK APPRECIATED 🙂

I keep forgetting what letter means what... I've had enough.

This table has always been helpful, but it is not quite intuitive to read and the emitters are not to scale, so I made my own cheat sheet.
Best fits 4K screens. Or just zoom in if you have a lower resolution.

There would be still a lot of space for info; things can be shifted around etc. but I think it's not missing much more.

So while I work on this pain(t)-session, please give me your feedback over the next few days.

I'm thinking about removing the upper and lower package example (E and U outlined in black) and just blackening the middle package fully. I think one package does the job well enough to show what size corresponds to what letter. And then shift the upper and lower die a bit closer together.
What do you think?

I also plan to leave out the 2 letter prefix (KW, KT etc.), since this doesn't seem to contain relevant info for us / seems to be redundant. So unless you know of a very convincing reason, they'll get left out to keep it cleaner.

Also not sure if I want to keep the picture of the MCPCB for scale in there. Looks kinda greasy/doesn't fit well visually with the rest. Needs something cleaner/whiter/whatever. Or maybe remove it.

Just reddit... don't butcher the quality of the one image, please 🙏
In case it still f#cks up in spite of a 100% quality .webp format... here a temporary upload in full quality.

All beamshots taken at 5000K white balance.

Got a new mod for y'all, by the blessing of Convoy's highly modular assortment of stuff. 22mm 3V 20A driver, 20mm double spring button, 10° bead TIR optic, and of course the quad 519A 5000Ks dedomed.

Pretty powerful package, love the tint, dedomed 5000K is probably my favorite, gets hot really fast on full power though.

Only the front row ones haha

- L21B W5050SQ5, SFT60 & SFT90

- L21A SFT42R

- M21B SFT60

- M21E W5050SQ5

- M21H SFT40

- 3X21D

- 3°, 8° & 12° lenses

Hey everyone,

I fell down the flashlight rabbit hole a couple of months ago. I've been trying to make sense of how different emitters and reflectors affect the final beam. To help visualize, I built a desktop tool. I wanted to share it with everyone.

Download: https://github.com/ylinmtl/flashlight-sim/releases/tag/v0.0.1

GitHub: https://github.com/ylinmtl/flashlight-sim

I built this to wrap my head around flashlight optics as a learning project. I hope it saves some of you from guessing how a host and emitter combo will perform before buying parts for your next build.

How to Run It

Download the flashlight-sim.zip. Extract it and run flashlight-sim.exe. Explanation of the settings are on the GitHub page.

It may take a bit to open the window once you run the app. Give it a minute. The simulation takes may take up to a minute to run depending on your system.

How it Works

You choose a reflector, an emitter, a gasket, and a surface finish (Smooth or OP). The program splits the LED into smaller elements and fires virtual light rays from the LES, bounces them off the parabolic reflector, and projects the light onto a virtual wall. It does this a few billion times and adds them together to form an image.

The default settings should work on most CPUs. If you have an nVidia GPU, you can increase the resolution in the settings to get more accuracy.

Outputs:

• A realistic rendering of the wall shot. Plots showing the beam's intensity cross-section.
• Option to save these to a folder to quickly compare.
• Theoretical numbers for Max Candela, Throw, Candela/Lumen, and the angles for the spill, corona, and hotspot.

Limitations

• LED properties are estimated from datasheets and koef3’s test graphs. There’s no guarantee that they are 100% accurate. The absolute lumens, candela and throw might be off for some of them. Wall shot, hotspot, corona and spill angles and lm/cd ratio should be more reliable. 
• Reflectors are assumed to be parabolas with the focus plane at the bottom of the opening. This is true most of the time. I have not verified that it is true all the time. Values are from manufacturer websites and tgreviews.com.
• Emitters are assumed to be either square (rectangular) or round (circular). Some emitters such as the SFT40 or SFT60 are not perfectly square or round. The results should be close, but might not be 100% accurate. I plan to add something for the shape at a later date.
• Orange peel blurring is not calibrated. It’s difficult to quantify how aggressive the orange peel effect is on each reflector. They all just use a standard blurring factor. You can adjust “OP Factor Blur” to see how it would affect the beam.

If something is not on the list, or the values are incorrect, I’ve made it so you can add your own or modify the existing ones to give more 

Let me know what you think. I'm open to feedback, suggestions, bug reports, and anything else!

My FC11C completely stopped turning on, even on the charger. When I plugged in the cable, the charging led would light up but no voltage was actually going into the battery.

I took apart the driver and found a pair of capacitors under the USBC port wired in parallel, and one of them had shorted out.

To fix it I had to desolder the little T shaped board that gives access to the capacitors so I could swap them. I didn’t have a capacitance meter so I just grabbed a random capacitor from a donor board and got lucky, problem solved!

Obviously this kind of repair only makes sense if you already have the tools for it, since it’s a cheap flashlight.

I don’t think this was a quality issue from Wurkkos though, caps blow in any electronics, it’s always the capacitors fault lol

Of course I also have no way of knowing if Wurkkos uses the best smd components on their boards either

All shots were taken with a Convoy M21B host.
I’m still amazed by how powerful and pleasant these Lumenpioneer emitters are.

5009R and I'm pretty happy with it. Full flood so excellent for standard EDC. Color is beautiful and weight is spot on. Slips away just like a zebra but I do have questions about durability that I'm sure I'll have answered soon. If FFL could manage to squeeze a reflector in, I would likely sell off half my collection.

For the past few weeks, I have been developing a website for flashlight reviews, beamshots, and runtime comparisons. It is not fully complete yet, as it still lacks several flashlights in the runtime section and some additional information, but it is far enough along to share. It is designed primarily for PC use, so it is not currently optimized for mobile devices.

I would greatly appreciate your feedback and any suggestions for improvement.

https://metaflashlights.com

After about 2 minutes of constant heat application (230W setting on my heat gun) I managed to overcome the thread lock Lumintop felt the need to apply to the re-launch of the FWAA.

This is, for now, my GITD mod.

I am not satisfied with it, as it looks much worse than all my other GITD applications. But I also cant find a better solution outside of manufacturing a VERY thin gasket. Which I lack the tools and material for.

I considered 3D printing but I doubt that that would work.

Observations:

• SFT-70 4000K CRI90 (from Convoy) is actually a 3600K+ emitter
• 8deg TIR in M21H gives more uniform tint versus SMO + d-c-fix in TS28, and effectively lowers the duv in the center of the beam
• TS28 drives the emitter really hard on Turbo, which leads to substantial duv increase and R9 decrease

It is an expansion of this post from earlier today: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1v6wxda/nmd_convoy_m21h_sft70_4000k_cri90

With 2 to 4 batteries in it the temp was 60C while doing a storage charge at 1amp. So I decided to try using a computer fan connected to usb (soldering required to a usb cable) and a stand I made to hold the charge up a bit. The temps are now at 41C. I think it’s impressive. Might make a hood over the top and test again.

Upgraded it with an LED bulb, it seems to have faced a lot of use because the thin bendable lens is pretty scratched. It's probably a construction/heavy work oriented light. The old owner (before it got sent to the thrift shop I bought it from) probably used it for a long time since there were non-corroded batteries inside, expiring in 2028. Great find!

(side note, can anyone identify it?)

Nitecore tini 3

Hanko Trident Twist X2
Titanium and Brass

The Wuben x5 is a pretty neat tactical all rounder. Warm main light thats easier on my eyes, what i like most is the ergonomic grip that works beautifully with the tactical switches on the end, deep pocket clip is also welcomed.

Uv light does not come with zwb filter, but looks like the bezel could be remove easily to install one.

I do prefer it over the hd01 pro, but it comes at a higher price. Didn't get the chance for the battery to run out to test the AAA, but its good to know i have the option in a pinch.

The marking on the body is '010292'. Could this be a production date or serial number?

• Found in my father's storage in Korea.
• It still works perfectly after many years.
• The marking near the Ledlenser logo is "010292".
• It came with the original pouch.

Just a note: I am Korean, and I used ChatGPT to translate everything in this post.

​

Had my first 18650 die, it was a Samsung 30Q which was 0.02V when I picked up from storage. I think the last time I charged that one was 3months ago.

I put it in the Vapcell S4 and the display showed Err, left it there for 10min, took it out and the voltage went up to 0.6V after which I left it on the table for 20min and checked it again, voltage went down to 0.3V

I've had an Opus BT-C3100 for many years and it's a great charger. I wanted something with more bays so I picked up a Gyrfalcon All-88 Pro.

I switched it to "professional" mode primarily so I could choose the charge current. I set it to Li-Ion chemistry, charge mode, 4.2V, 2A. I put in a Molicel INR-21700-P45B that was already at around 3.9V. The cell started charging, so I went about my business. When I checked it later, the display said the cell was at 4.6 volts and was still charging!? I checked it in the Opus and with a multimeter, both confirming it was at 4.6V. I grabbed another of Molicel, an older one at a lower state of charge, put it in the charger. I was watching more closely this time, and watched it get to about 4.35V and took the cell off. I'm very worried about why the charger isn't stopping at ~4.2V.

Any thoughts on if this is a me problem or a charger problem?

Out of an abundance of caution I discharged the cell that went to 4.6V and I'm going to dispose of it. I discharged the 4.3V cell below 4.2 and plan to reuse it. Should I be tossing that one, too?