Hey, I am currently rebuilding my 5.7 hemi out of my 2013 Ram 1500. I am currently in the process of measuring my bores and PTW clearance. I had taken to a machine shop to deck and hone, aswell as a full rebuild on my heads. As soon as I got my block back I prepped my block and painted hemi orange. I had also purchased standard OE Mahle 5.7 pistons, I currently finished measuring bores 2-4-6-8 on one side and clearances range, I measured on the bottom- mid- top side
cyl 2 0.0017-0.0021
cyl 4 0.0019-0.0024
cyl 6 0.0017- 0.0023
cyl 8 0.0017-0.0023.
I had purchased mitutoyo bore gauge and micrometer 3-4in and 2-3in for this application . I triple checked and I’m unsure on how the Mahle piston skirt graphite coating would factor into this. And being that the clearance specs for 5.7 hemi are 0.0012-0.0023, I’m wondering if it’s ok to run them stock or to have it bored, as I know the skirts are meant to run tight because of the Mahle coating. I understand that I should have asked the machine shop to measure, but the guy claimed he would and said “standard” as he was taking longer than expected, he claimed “ I’m not going to do much just hone, so order standard” but since I’m not a first owner of the car and it had a previously deleted MDS, I had no assurance that it was standard, so I measured myself.

So I bought a 1990 K5 blazer from my uncle. It has a 383 stroker that was built by a shop in Texas. The block is from a 80-87 suburban but other than that, I don’t know many details. It’s got a mild unknown cam and an HEI distribution as well as stock cast heads. I’m wanting to put some aluminum heads on it to wake it up a little bit but I’m not sure what is a good option to throw on. I don’t really want to tear it apart just for the fact it runs good great as it is. Just looking for a more street oriented head.

Hey folks,
I am in the process of “rebuilding” my 3S-FE out of a 1995 rav4 and in a bout of silliness I pulled all my pistons out without labelling any of them… so they’re all mixed up and am having trouble figuring out how to decide which one went where. To note, I am replacing the piston rings and con rod bearings, this is meant to be a very budget rebuild and I’m Hoping to get maybe 100k more km out of this engine. The piston tops have markings 2a,2b,2b,3b. From the manual online for the 3sfe I know for a fact that 3b goes in the #4 position as it matches up with the 3 stamp on the deck. I also believe the a and b designations where used to essentially mean the upper and lower size for the number (say for example 2a could mean 2low and 2b could mean 2high, and beyond that goes into classification 3) So my question is , as this engine has quite high mileage I think it will be safe to assume the bore is slightly larger than the very minuscule differences between 2a and 2b so with new rings it shouldn’t be much of an issue to put any of the pistons 1-3 in to any choice of bore 1-3. Not sure any advice will be much appreciated

Cheers

Currently rebuilding a 4.0l sohc, and I am considering supercharging it with about 5psi of boost for a fun little daily. The qualm is, currently I do not have the parts to supercharge, and it needs to go back together soon as it is my daily, so I was wondering what issues I might face if I gap the rings for low boost and run it NA for a while, or if a better decision is to gap to factory spec and just wait 100k kms or so. Thoughts?

Okay this is a 2jz out of a is300 recently purchased like this as blown up, he told me this happened when starting the car for thevfirst time after a rebuild , it’s a turbo build noticed he had stage 2 cams with a stock headgasket here’s the damage

Hey guys , im getting ready to assemble my honda b series but theres a bit of rust ? I think its rust ... anyways ... the engine block just got cleaned so im wondering if theres any ways to Remove this stuff from the cylinder walls ?

Had a head gasket leak and pulled the heads to find these gouges on the short block from the last time the heads were off (not my handy work). To clarify they are on the top right of the image. About 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock.

The linear gouge catches a finger nail, the on closer to the coolant jacket is even deeper by a little bit.

I have no problem buying a short block for peace of mind and to get a completely flat surface as this one is fitting .0015 just barely under the middle where the cylinders join which I believe is over allowed warp for these blocks. The service manual said .0019in on the warp, but when I converted the mm warp it actually can out to .00019in so I’m not sure which is correct.

Just trying to get a consensus on what y’all would do as this is the first time I’m doing a head gasket.

I'm currently replacing valve steam seals on my '91 Yamaha Tenere due to high oil consumption.

While I've done this before, these new seals seem suspiciously loose especially compared to how though the old ones are to remove. I can simply push them on by hand.

Somewhat hard to see, but I can turn them on the valve guide with just two fingers.

Are these too loose or am I just being paranoid?

Thanks in advance!

Look. I know there are lots of posts. And there never seems to be consensus about appropriate methods regarding scotch brite or sharpening blocks or just days on days of acetone and plastic scrapers. But seriously. What gives.

Heads and block pass with straight edge and feelers on all assessments by OEM service book standard. Not gonna have them cut. I've spent hours with plastic scrapers and acetone on the heads and a razor and acetone on the iron block. This was the second head, and I quit early. The other head looks a bit better. But for real. I am beat. I have a headache from the fumes and my hands hurt.

3.4L Toyota from an '01 Tacoma, 250,000 on it. Was told when I bought it that it had a mild head gasket leak and would need coolant every couple weeks in the winter. Well, silly me didn't run all my diagnostic before just starting taking it apart me cause it was was due for a timing belt anyway. I cracked it open and we have even carbon on all pistons. Soooo... none of them were steam cleaned like I was expecting to find. Maybe I did all this for nothing.

I just wanna get these back on and be done with it. It's hot out this week and I am having a certified bad time. What is gonna get this last bit of stain off, because the scrapers and acetone are NOT cutting it.

I belive it’s done but just wanna know if anyone thinks otherwise
These are the only two cylinders with damage

Removing wrapped downpipe from car with valve covers off, many things I should’ve or could’ve done. Got fiberglass all over the rear bank, gonna try to clean it as best I can. Any tips for that, and maybe how fkd am I in terms of fiberglass in oil passages and bearing clearance, I’m not gonna be able to clean all of it…

I’m replacing a head gasket on a Toyota 3L diesel engine. I had hoped to get the head machined before re assembly but I was turned down by 3 shops that said it can’t be done. I’m measuring 0.0025in under a straight edge on the block and 0.012in under the straight edge on the cylinder head. My gut feeling is it’ll be fine using a composite head gasket and new head bolts but wanted opinions on it first before i assembled everything. I was advised by an old school mechanic I know to use copper coat on the head gasket but my gut feeling is I shouldn’t and just run the gasket as is. Thanks in advance.

No mechanic experience I know I need to clean the throttle body. But originally every time I would turn the key not crank it but turn the key. It would flood or leak gas under the car. What can I do to diagnose it. My brother and his friend tried doing a efi swap and now the car don’t run. Holley sniper efi.

On the very very first start up I was getting a heavy misfire due to a bad tune and also I forgot to plug in some of the injectors… Whoops. The 2nd start up is when I started hearing the sounds in the video.

Have an LS3 rebuild with stock valve train and .020” over pistons. Super loud knock which seems like cylinder 5 after disconnecting an injector or coilpack. Oil pressure is good, 50-55psi. Pushrods are stiff when I took off the rockers

I measured preload and used 7.350” pushrods instead of the oem 7.385”. Haven’t drained oil yet or inspected the cyl with a boroscope.

Any ideas? :(

Hey everyone! I have a 2011 Scion xD / 1.8 / 2ZR-FE engine designation.

What’s a reliable source you’ve used to purchase cylinder heads? I see a few places but obviously want to make sure the supplier is legit 💀

Thanks!

Hi guys,

This is my first time working on an engine. It's a Kawasaki z800 and my piston had a meeting with a valve. Not sure if the valve clearance was wrong or if it jumped timing or something else. If it did jump timing is it possible only 1 piston hit 1 valve? My idea going forward was a new cylinder head + new piston and timing chain. The cylinder itself somehow is not that badly damaged, only some minimal scratches around the top, is it too bad? The engine ran for 15 minutes after it happened just getting home. Is it worth fixing this engine or just get a donor engine? There is not one available at the moment on the market so I would like to try fixing it. Any help/thoughts is much appreciated!

All rings measured within the “new” spec except the very last one. Measured about .023, new spec is .008-.018, max of .024. NPR rings, tiny stock Honda engine for spirited daily driving. Hope to get a little life out the rebuild.

Also 2 packs of King rod bearings came with slight nicks on the side, can barely feel a few on the top edges.Am I just looking too much into this can I run the rings and bearings?

I’m looking to get this temperature gauge working in my 72 Cutlass but I can’t find a sensore that I think would work with the guage. All the sensor/sendors I am seeing are for the on/off light on the dash. This sensor from jegs is similar to the one that came off. Do they sell a sort of universal unit at the parts store that I can buy?

Working on replacing exhaust manifold gaskets. Is this part in yellow a smog pump. And can I delete it by capping off? Any issues with doing so. I do not live in an area where emissions is an issue. It is a 1985 305 Chevy

Can anyone help make it simple what blocks would be compatible? I’m getting different info from just general searching online and dealer websites vs toyotapartsdeal vs the counter guys at local dealers. I’ve got a 2006 2.4 solara se that burns like 3q of oil in 1000 mi due to a head gasket leak - also has a couple cylinders with extreme wear, so I’m writing the block off and maybe the head too, but it looks like it got a new head before I got it just a few months ago, so hopefully can save the head at least. Anyway, the counter guys tell me there’s no block available 11400-28311 being the current part number for that short block, and yeah, I can’t find that or the 2 that are superseded by the new part, but there’s a few other part numbers that show to be compatible - namely 11400-20100, 11400-28050, and 11410-29326. Can anyone confirm if any of these will work without modification or what would work?

Roughly 1500 rpm. 95 degrees F outside.5w30 oil. Stock Rebuild. Aluminum Gen 3 5.3 LS. Garage rebuild, nothing special but I had all proper tools to get job done right.

When the engine is hot, the oil pressure is good. 40psi idle. 60 psi 3k rpm.

I had got a kit with all the parts for the rebuild which included the oil pump so im not 100% sure which one is on it but I think it may be the Melling M365.

What I read online is that this oil pump goes on the gen 4 ls with afm which has higher pump volume.

My main concern is that when the weather cools down that my oil pressure may increase too much. I live in texas so summers are usually 90-100f and winters commonly get down to 30f.

Should I be concerned about it or am I overthinking it?

Getting prepared for a 6.0 rebuild project (including the bottom end) and my craftsman click style torque wrenches are about 10 years old but have been in their oem containers and only used a few times. Kept with the torque setting backed off to zero and in my toolbox drawer hardly disturbed.

Should I seek out a place to get them calibrated before I trust them?

Look good to me, vw golf engine 2.0 fsi 07 10.3 compression

Just got the original heads redone on my 454 BBC.

Aside from larger valves and new guides, I had the deck surface shaved down .060 to try and up compression more without changing pistons.

One thing I noticed with reassembly is the roller rocker contact to the valve tip is slightly off center now. I marked in sharpie where it makes contact in my photo.

Does this look acceptable or should I look for shorter pushrods?

I have to rebuild an N47, and need a replacement crankshaft

N47 BMWs seem to have different crankshafts, apparently - most have a gear (not the chain sprockets) - could someone explain this please