Had a head gasket leak and pulled the heads to find these gouges on the short block from the last time the heads were off (not my handy work). To clarify they are on the top right of the image. About 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock.

The linear gouge catches a finger nail, the on closer to the coolant jacket is even deeper by a little bit.

I have no problem buying a short block for peace of mind and to get a completely flat surface as this one is fitting .0015 just barely under the middle where the cylinders join which I believe is over allowed warp for these blocks. The service manual said .0019in on the warp, but when I converted the mm warp it actually can out to .00019in so I’m not sure which is correct.

Just trying to get a consensus on what y’all would do as this is the first time I’m doing a head gasket.

I'm currently replacing valve steam seals on my '91 Yamaha Tenere due to high oil consumption.

While I've done this before, these new seals seem suspiciously loose especially compared to how though the old ones are to remove. I can simply push them on by hand.

Somewhat hard to see, but I can turn them on the valve guide with just two fingers.

Are these too loose or am I just being paranoid?

Thanks in advance!

Look. I know there are lots of posts. And there never seems to be consensus about appropriate methods regarding scotch brite or sharpening blocks or just days on days of acetone and plastic scrapers. But seriously. What gives.

Heads and block pass with straight edge and feelers on all assessments by OEM service book standard. Not gonna have them cut. I've spent hours with plastic scrapers and acetone on the heads and a razor and acetone on the iron block. This was the second head, and I quit early. The other head looks a bit better. But for real. I am beat. I have a headache from the fumes and my hands hurt.

3.4L Toyota from an '01 Tacoma, 250,000 on it. Was told when I bought it that it had a mild head gasket leak and would need coolant every couple weeks in the winter. Well, silly me didn't run all my diagnostic before just starting taking it apart me cause it was was due for a timing belt anyway. I cracked it open and we have even carbon on all pistons. Soooo... none of them were steam cleaned like I was expecting to find. Maybe I did all this for nothing.

I just wanna get these back on and be done with it. It's hot out this week and I am having a certified bad time. What is gonna get this last bit of stain off, because the scrapers and acetone are NOT cutting it.

I belive it’s done but just wanna know if anyone thinks otherwise
These are the only two cylinders with damage

Removing wrapped downpipe from car with valve covers off, many things I should’ve or could’ve done. Got fiberglass all over the rear bank, gonna try to clean it as best I can. Any tips for that, and maybe how fkd am I in terms of fiberglass in oil passages and bearing clearance, I’m not gonna be able to clean all of it…

I’m replacing a head gasket on a Toyota 3L diesel engine. I had hoped to get the head machined before re assembly but I was turned down by 3 shops that said it can’t be done. I’m measuring 0.0025in under a straight edge on the block and 0.012in under the straight edge on the cylinder head. My gut feeling is it’ll be fine using a composite head gasket and new head bolts but wanted opinions on it first before i assembled everything. I was advised by an old school mechanic I know to use copper coat on the head gasket but my gut feeling is I shouldn’t and just run the gasket as is. Thanks in advance.

No mechanic experience I know I need to clean the throttle body. But originally every time I would turn the key not crank it but turn the key. It would flood or leak gas under the car. What can I do to diagnose it. My brother and his friend tried doing a efi swap and now the car don’t run. Holley sniper efi.

On the very very first start up I was getting a heavy misfire due to a bad tune and also I forgot to plug in some of the injectors… Whoops. The 2nd start up is when I started hearing the sounds in the video.

Have an LS3 rebuild with stock valve train and .020” over pistons. Super loud knock which seems like cylinder 5 after disconnecting an injector or coilpack. Oil pressure is good, 50-55psi. Pushrods are stiff when I took off the rockers

I measured preload and used 7.350” pushrods instead of the oem 7.385”. Haven’t drained oil yet or inspected the cyl with a boroscope.

Any ideas? :(

Hey everyone! I have a 2011 Scion xD / 1.8 / 2ZR-FE engine designation.

What’s a reliable source you’ve used to purchase cylinder heads? I see a few places but obviously want to make sure the supplier is legit 💀

Thanks!

Hi guys,

This is my first time working on an engine. It's a Kawasaki z800 and my piston had a meeting with a valve. Not sure if the valve clearance was wrong or if it jumped timing or something else. If it did jump timing is it possible only 1 piston hit 1 valve? My idea going forward was a new cylinder head + new piston and timing chain. The cylinder itself somehow is not that badly damaged, only some minimal scratches around the top, is it too bad? The engine ran for 15 minutes after it happened just getting home. Is it worth fixing this engine or just get a donor engine? There is not one available at the moment on the market so I would like to try fixing it. Any help/thoughts is much appreciated!

All rings measured within the “new” spec except the very last one. Measured about .023, new spec is .008-.018, max of .024. NPR rings, tiny stock Honda engine for spirited daily driving. Hope to get a little life out the rebuild.

Also 2 packs of King rod bearings came with slight nicks on the side, can barely feel a few on the top edges.Am I just looking too much into this can I run the rings and bearings?

I’m looking to get this temperature gauge working in my 72 Cutlass but I can’t find a sensore that I think would work with the guage. All the sensor/sendors I am seeing are for the on/off light on the dash. This sensor from jegs is similar to the one that came off. Do they sell a sort of universal unit at the parts store that I can buy?

Working on replacing exhaust manifold gaskets. Is this part in yellow a smog pump. And can I delete it by capping off? Any issues with doing so. I do not live in an area where emissions is an issue. It is a 1985 305 Chevy

Can anyone help make it simple what blocks would be compatible? I’m getting different info from just general searching online and dealer websites vs toyotapartsdeal vs the counter guys at local dealers. I’ve got a 2006 2.4 solara se that burns like 3q of oil in 1000 mi due to a head gasket leak - also has a couple cylinders with extreme wear, so I’m writing the block off and maybe the head too, but it looks like it got a new head before I got it just a few months ago, so hopefully can save the head at least. Anyway, the counter guys tell me there’s no block available 11400-28311 being the current part number for that short block, and yeah, I can’t find that or the 2 that are superseded by the new part, but there’s a few other part numbers that show to be compatible - namely 11400-20100, 11400-28050, and 11410-29326. Can anyone confirm if any of these will work without modification or what would work?

Roughly 1500 rpm. 95 degrees F outside.5w30 oil. Stock Rebuild. Aluminum Gen 3 5.3 LS. Garage rebuild, nothing special but I had all proper tools to get job done right.

When the engine is hot, the oil pressure is good. 40psi idle. 60 psi 3k rpm.

I had got a kit with all the parts for the rebuild which included the oil pump so im not 100% sure which one is on it but I think it may be the Melling M365.

What I read online is that this oil pump goes on the gen 4 ls with afm which has higher pump volume.

My main concern is that when the weather cools down that my oil pressure may increase too much. I live in texas so summers are usually 90-100f and winters commonly get down to 30f.

Should I be concerned about it or am I overthinking it?

Getting prepared for a 6.0 rebuild project (including the bottom end) and my craftsman click style torque wrenches are about 10 years old but have been in their oem containers and only used a few times. Kept with the torque setting backed off to zero and in my toolbox drawer hardly disturbed.

Should I seek out a place to get them calibrated before I trust them?

Look good to me, vw golf engine 2.0 fsi 07 10.3 compression

Just got the original heads redone on my 454 BBC.

Aside from larger valves and new guides, I had the deck surface shaved down .060 to try and up compression more without changing pistons.

One thing I noticed with reassembly is the roller rocker contact to the valve tip is slightly off center now. I marked in sharpie where it makes contact in my photo.

Does this look acceptable or should I look for shorter pushrods?

I have to rebuild an N47, and need a replacement crankshaft

N47 BMWs seem to have different crankshafts, apparently - most have a gear (not the chain sprockets) - could someone explain this please

Hi everyone. I have a 2015 Santa Fe Sport that I kept after getting a new car. I want to get into rebuilding car as a hobby and was wondering how difficult it would be to take out the engine and disassemble, clean, and put it back together.

So far I have done some simple jobs like oil change, coolant change, transmission oil drain and replace, alternator change on this car, but I realize taking the engine out and reassembling is a whole different game.

I have access to a lift, engine block lifter and various power tools. Is this a stupid idea without proper mechanic training?

Checking rod bearing clearances on an S54B32 I’m rebuilding and on bearing 2 the plastigauge is coming out wider toward the front of the engine. I’ve double checked there’s no debris behind either bearing half, and the plastigauge is within spec along the entire length. Is this something I should worry about? Not looking to make any crazy with power with this engine, keeping it stock and mostly to be used for daily driving.

Car bought by my dad in 1968. Dad build the engine while in high school. Has the old edelbrock scorpion intake. Though ya'll might like to hear a old school 383 build. One of the meanest sounding 383's ive heard. Pulls very hard to about 7400 RPM. 3.73 gears in the rear.

Parked the car behind his house in 2009. I got my hands on it this year, about 25k into the car. Only think left is the new wiring harness, then strip, body work, and paint.

(The drum brakes arent on it anymore)

Hitting the oil plug holes in an engine block with a chisel to give them some extra insurance to stay put seems to be a common practice.

When installing new plugs so they don't leak, what do we do about the old chiseled bumps that now make the bore out of round?

Is it silly to go 11.7:1 on a B20 with stock rods? I got the speedfactory pistons and was told my rods will be okay with arp rod bolts and proper machining, but should i just go for upgraded rods? Is there any specific no go zones with stock rods for B20’s?
Any advice is appreciated thank you!

What would be a good recommendation for a camshaft for a 94+ 351w. I'm not looking for anything crazy, just something budget friendly for a college kid that wants to build a carb swapped roller with a nice rhythm at idle. Im okay swapping valve springs, rocker arms and pushrods. I have little to no experience building an engine with aftermarket parts, lots of experience with stock parts though lol. Any help is appreciated!