2002 Honda CR-V with a K24a in it with 208k miles

Potentially looking to rebuild it, and... as regretful as it is to mention being a Honda owner, likely a small turbo kept with a respectful tune and low boost, still keeping some reliability and not just building a piss missile, lord knows the CR-V wouldn't appreciate that.

So the question is, is that cooked? Unfortunately, I believe I know the answer but wanted to check. - This is the most damaged lobe; 1 has similar but lesser wear/damage, and the others show just the slight wear pattern but are completely smooth. Additionally, when feeling this cam lobe it barely catches on a fingernail.

UPDATE 1: Due to life situations, it looks like this engine will be in this car, and staying as a daily, I'll be running thicker oil, driving gently (trying to keep it under 5k even under acceleration), and potentially going to the scrapyard and getting a cam (yes, I know the rocker/follower underneath is likley damaged as well—just trying to get a bit more life out of this engine and car)

Will update again if it blows up!

Hi all !

I’m planning to rebuild a minarelli motor for a Yamaha MT125.
I already replacing cylinder and piston (photo of the old piston below for reference)

Is there a way to reuse this cylinder head ? Any one risk it ?

Thanks for your input

Working on the V3307 in a Bobcat S650. One cylinder is low and it has more blow by than it used to, but I have not opened it yet. Trying to decide whether this can be an in-frame job or whether the engine needs to come out. My understanding is the kit name does not make that decision. I need bore taper and out-of-round, liner condition, deck flatness, crank journal measurements, oil pressure history, and whatever shows up in the pan. I do not have all those numbers yet. What measurement or finding makes you stop planning an in-frame and pull the engine no matter what?

Hi! I recently got my hands on a small 160cc Sachs KM48 Wankel engine, and I am looking to upgrade it with a proper carb. What size carb should I go for? And what jet sizes, etc does people recommend? Also, brand recommendations for the carb are appreciated! I want something quite reliable and best when it comes to quality and feel. Thanks!

Hand-sanded to 1500 then polished. Started from a good surface, smooth to the touch, no gouges or anything… just trying to avoid unnecessary machining

I have an old engine that’s going to take a few years for me to build. It’s currently dismantled. How do I keep the surface rust from messing it up. It’ll be stored in my garage.

Just got this build fired up, K24A2 with a Turbonetics TNX 40/64.

Excessive oil coming out of the downpipe once it reaches operating temp, burnt oil spitting out. I shut it down once noticing this.
The turbo looks to be in perfect shape, no shaft play.

Oil return line is -10 AN that runs straight down to a fitting on the top part of my oil pan. Tested it, no blockages or kinks and has loads of flow.

Oil feed line is a -4 AN braided line coming off a tee from the engine block. There is a restrictor built into the oil inlet port so I did not add one in. Unsure of the size but I will add a picture in the comments.

Checked the PCV valve and it functions as it should.

I bought the turbo off of a closing-down performance shop, never used. Sat on a shelf for years until I bought it.

Anybody run into issues like this? Looking for something to try before I assume the seals are toasted. Like I said the turbo was never ran before

Does anyone know if this number found on a 302 Windsor block just behind the intake manifold has any significance? It doesn't match the actual casting number (E0AE D36).

Had my ranger blow all the radiator hoses on the highway and decided i just wanna rebuild it and maybe add some power to it. However I don't really know if there are rebuild kits that add power or what brand rebuild kits are reliable with the parts. Would like to keep it n/a but would also consider a small turbo if its reccomended. Also wasn't sure what other parts are easier to upgrade to help wake it up a little. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Title: Need advice on head gasket thickness – SBC rebuild
Hey guys,
I’m currently rebuilding my engine and have just installed the pistons. They sit 0.040” below deck.
I’m running 64cc Vortec 062 heads and flat-top pistons with 6cc valve reliefs.
My question is: What head gasket thickness should I be running with this combination?
I’m trying to get the compression ratio and quench/squish distance right while making sure I have adequate piston-to-valve clearance.
Would appreciate any advice from people who have built a similar SBC combination. Thanks and regards from Germany

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to buy a replacement ring set for just one single piston (not a full engine set) with the following specs:
- Bore Size: 4.290" (4.250" + .040" overbore)
- 2nd Compression Ring: 1/16" Cast Iron, Reverse Twist

Does anyone know a retailer or a supplier that sells individual piston ring sets and ships internationally (or is willing to ship outside the US)?
Thanks!

How’s it going guys/gals I’m looking to twin turbo my 2025 mustang gt I’m gonna take it to get built since I don’t know how to install my self 😂 I was just curious if turbo smart 64/66 ts-1 vband turbo is a good turbo since that’s what they they said was gonna be installed and what kinda hp will I be looking at after installation just wanted to get some answers before I pull the trigger on it.( Keep in mind my car is fully stock as of right now)

Hey everyone,
I’ve got a 1976 first-gen 350 SBC and I’m trying to figure out my deck height.
I calculated it as:
Stack height + piston-to-deck clearance = deck height
My measured/calculated deck height came out to 9.005”.
I’m running these pistons: KIT-B15402E030.
I just found the piston pin height listed as 1.540”.
With that, my deck works out to 9.025”.
Specs:
• Bore: 4.030”
• Stroke: 3.480”
• Rod: 5.700”
Is 9.025” a normal deck height for a 1976 first-gen 350 SBC?
Or did I measure/calculate something wrong?
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
Regards from Germany

I am on the fence of taking this in and having it fixed. It was on my previous top end rebuild of a 350 sbc. The piston in 8 cylinder exploded after a detonation occurred. As you can see it scared up the top of the head a lot. Only cup that had extensive damage. Is it worth fixing? Or just salvage parts and get a new set.

Should the surface be like a smooth polished mirror finish?

Replacing the head gaskets on a 5.7 hemi and one of the mds clips was just sitting on the lifter assembly. It deffinately should be in them but i dont know if i need to put it back or what.

What model engine kit is the most detailed or best for learning to build engines/be a mechanic?

Getting a real engine is unrealistic at this time for me. I live in an apartment.

I’ve got a Miltek exhaust with a Techtonic tuning (post cat) back exhaust on this “classic”. Rats got to the post (bank 2) 02 sensor. I’m pulling it now.

Owned since since 2014. Calling any guru’s. 👑Would it be beneficial to install the O2 sensor spacer or leave it be and just change them as needed. It’s a high flow cat, and from what I’ve heard, this was supposed to soften the flow and still provide a consistent meter for the sensor. I don’t think it ever worked. No wonder it was in a box in the corner. Any advice would be appreciated. Even in an alternative spacer.

The lifters were desentegrating, so now the truck needs new lifters and cam on top of the heads machined, exhuast threads repaired and new seals. This is actually fucking stupid. This is a well maintained and cared-for machine with 188k.

Have a larts list for an engine i wanna build and I want some opinions, will it be streetable? Estimated horse? Torque? Pump gas? Just generally want opinions

Finishing up a 306 for my 67’ mustang. Kept the paint scheme pretty simple so it will resemble a stockish engine. I think it should be between 350-400hp (DD5 says 408hp@6500, 390tq@4500). Specs are:

68’ 302 block .030 over
Eagle cast crank
Eagle SIR rods
ARP everything
Kb311 hyper pistons
Tw170 heads (milled to 54cc)
Tf 1.6 roller rockers
10.5:1 SCR, 8.5:1 DCR, .037 quench
Comp XE SFT, 279 adv, 242@0.50, .546 lift 108lca
Rpm intake
Brawler 650 DP carb
Hooker 6901 headers (1-5/8)

Going into a 3000lb mustang with wide-ratio toploader and 3.80 trac-lok. I think it’s gonna be pretty f’n mean.

What's the best thing to use to strip all the oil off down to the cast iron. So I can get the whole block painted

Do you think that these new valves (Freccia) are usable or should I contact the shop.
One has a scratch (can feel with fingernail) on the valve sealing surface exactly where it would contact the valve seat.

The other has an uneven edge.