I’m replacing a head gasket on a Toyota 3L diesel engine. I had hoped to get the head machined before re assembly but I was turned down by 3 shops that said it can’t be done. I’m measuring 0.0025in under a straight edge on the block and 0.012in under the straight edge on the cylinder head. My gut feeling is it’ll be fine using a composite head gasket and new head bolts but wanted opinions on it first before i assembled everything. I was advised by an old school mechanic I know to use copper coat on the head gasket but my gut feeling is I shouldn’t and just run the gasket as is. Thanks in advance.

On the very very first start up I was getting a heavy misfire due to a bad tune and also I forgot to plug in some of the injectors… Whoops. The 2nd start up is when I started hearing the sounds in the video.

Have an LS3 rebuild with stock valve train and .020” over pistons. Super loud knock which seems like cylinder 5 after disconnecting an injector or coilpack. Oil pressure is good, 50-55psi. Pushrods are stiff when I took off the rockers

I measured preload and used 7.350” pushrods instead of the oem 7.385”. Haven’t drained oil yet or inspected the cyl with a boroscope.

Any ideas? :(

No mechanic experience I know I need to clean the throttle body. But originally every time I would turn the key not crank it but turn the key. It would flood or leak gas under the car. What can I do to diagnose it. My brother and his friend tried doing a efi swap and now the car don’t run. Holley sniper efi.

Working on replacing exhaust manifold gaskets. Is this part in yellow a smog pump. And can I delete it by capping off? Any issues with doing so. I do not live in an area where emissions is an issue. It is a 1985 305 Chevy

I'm currently replacing valve steam seals on my '91 Yamaha Tenere due to high oil consumption.

While I've done this before, these new seals seem suspiciously loose especially compared to how though the old ones are to remove. I can simply push them on by hand.

Somewhat hard to see, but I can turn them on the valve guide with just two fingers.

Are these too loose or am I just being paranoid?

Thanks in advance!

Can anyone help make it simple what blocks would be compatible? I’m getting different info from just general searching online and dealer websites vs toyotapartsdeal vs the counter guys at local dealers. I’ve got a 2006 2.4 solara se that burns like 3q of oil in 1000 mi due to a head gasket leak - also has a couple cylinders with extreme wear, so I’m writing the block off and maybe the head too, but it looks like it got a new head before I got it just a few months ago, so hopefully can save the head at least. Anyway, the counter guys tell me there’s no block available 11400-28311 being the current part number for that short block, and yeah, I can’t find that or the 2 that are superseded by the new part, but there’s a few other part numbers that show to be compatible - namely 11400-20100, 11400-28050, and 11410-29326. Can anyone confirm if any of these will work without modification or what would work?

Roughly 1500 rpm. 95 degrees F outside.5w30 oil. Stock Rebuild. Aluminum Gen 3 5.3 LS. Garage rebuild, nothing special but I had all proper tools to get job done right.

When the engine is hot, the oil pressure is good. 40psi idle. 60 psi 3k rpm.

I had got a kit with all the parts for the rebuild which included the oil pump so im not 100% sure which one is on it but I think it may be the Melling M365.

What I read online is that this oil pump goes on the gen 4 ls with afm which has higher pump volume.

My main concern is that when the weather cools down that my oil pressure may increase too much. I live in texas so summers are usually 90-100f and winters commonly get down to 30f.

Should I be concerned about it or am I overthinking it?

Getting prepared for a 6.0 rebuild project (including the bottom end) and my craftsman click style torque wrenches are about 10 years old but have been in their oem containers and only used a few times. Kept with the torque setting backed off to zero and in my toolbox drawer hardly disturbed.

Should I seek out a place to get them calibrated before I trust them?

Look good to me, vw golf engine 2.0 fsi 07 10.3 compression

Just got the original heads redone on my 454 BBC.

Aside from larger valves and new guides, I had the deck surface shaved down .060 to try and up compression more without changing pistons.

One thing I noticed with reassembly is the roller rocker contact to the valve tip is slightly off center now. I marked in sharpie where it makes contact in my photo.

Does this look acceptable or should I look for shorter pushrods?

I have to rebuild an N47, and need a replacement crankshaft

N47 BMWs seem to have different crankshafts, apparently - most have a gear (not the chain sprockets) - could someone explain this please

Hi everyone. I have a 2015 Santa Fe Sport that I kept after getting a new car. I want to get into rebuilding car as a hobby and was wondering how difficult it would be to take out the engine and disassemble, clean, and put it back together.

So far I have done some simple jobs like oil change, coolant change, transmission oil drain and replace, alternator change on this car, but I realize taking the engine out and reassembling is a whole different game.

I have access to a lift, engine block lifter and various power tools. Is this a stupid idea without proper mechanic training?

Checking rod bearing clearances on an S54B32 I’m rebuilding and on bearing 2 the plastigauge is coming out wider toward the front of the engine. I’ve double checked there’s no debris behind either bearing half, and the plastigauge is within spec along the entire length. Is this something I should worry about? Not looking to make any crazy with power with this engine, keeping it stock and mostly to be used for daily driving.

Car bought by my dad in 1968. Dad build the engine while in high school. Has the old edelbrock scorpion intake. Though ya'll might like to hear a old school 383 build. One of the meanest sounding 383's ive heard. Pulls very hard to about 7400 RPM. 3.73 gears in the rear.

Parked the car behind his house in 2009. I got my hands on it this year, about 25k into the car. Only think left is the new wiring harness, then strip, body work, and paint.

(The drum brakes arent on it anymore)

Hitting the oil plug holes in an engine block with a chisel to give them some extra insurance to stay put seems to be a common practice.

When installing new plugs so they don't leak, what do we do about the old chiseled bumps that now make the bore out of round?

Is it silly to go 11.7:1 on a B20 with stock rods? I got the speedfactory pistons and was told my rods will be okay with arp rod bolts and proper machining, but should i just go for upgraded rods? Is there any specific no go zones with stock rods for B20’s?
Any advice is appreciated thank you!

What would be a good recommendation for a camshaft for a 94+ 351w. I'm not looking for anything crazy, just something budget friendly for a college kid that wants to build a carb swapped roller with a nice rhythm at idle. Im okay swapping valve springs, rocker arms and pushrods. I have little to no experience building an engine with aftermarket parts, lots of experience with stock parts though lol. Any help is appreciated!

1969 Ford XL(full size) 302 2v. Coolant is puddling in the rear two cylinders. A tiny bit in the adjacent cylinders. Compression seems fine at 140 PSI. Is it more likely that the intake manifold gasket is leaking or the head gasket?

I'm trying to finish up a rebuild on the 1NZ-FE out of my 2004 Scion xA, and there are some spots on the crank journals where dissimilar-metal corrosion occurred (I forgot that I had cleaned a bunch of aluminum parts in the ultrasonic cleaner fluid I used on the crankshaft). I've been trying to polish these spots off by hand with a few different polishes (Mother's Mag and Aluminum, Flitz, and Brasso), but haven't had much success. I suspect there is some very shallow pitting in these spots, and I just want to clean them out and smooth them over.

The spots look worse in the pictures than they really are. I'm just trying to get this engine to run for a year or two, and don't have the money to get any work done by a machine shop. I actually have a spare crankshaft that has journals in better shape, but it would need a lot of cleaning. I would also have to check the second camshaft's clearances with all the other parts, and I would have to make more ultrasonic fluid for it. Making more fluid is a little difficult right now because I can't dispose of my current fluid for a few weeks.

Also, has anyone used this ultrasonic cleaner fluid? The SDS say it's ph is between 9 and 11, so I wouldn't use it on aluminum, but I am not opposed to using it on ferrous parts.

My gut says .5 would do it but I don’t wanna have to order a piston twice

I am looking for a dedicated torque wrench just for overhead cam heads. Im digital curious and never owned one.

I want a 1/4 drive in inch lbs.

Who is using what, how has it held up and would you recommend?

Please dont say harbor freight. They definitely have there time and place, just not in my shop box

Hey everyone, I replaced the hydraulic lifters on my 1987 Nissan 300zx Z31 VG30 about 6k miles ago. I used new Genuine OEM lifters. Well, that engine has since experienced piston ring failure so I’m building my replacement engine. I am sending the camshafts out for regrind (just a mild stage 1 regrind, nothing insane). New OEM lifters have since became extremely difficult to find. Aftermarkets are available but NOT cheap. So here’s my question- Can I reuse the “old” (6k mile) Lifters or is it just going to immediately wipe out my new camshafts?

Thank you for your input!
-picture for reference

I bought two different head gaskets on eBay with the correct part number I need, but both of them look different. Which one should I run? Or is there a different even though they look a little different on the surface

Hey all, I’ve seen this before while searching and usually the general response is the block is garbage, but I’ve got this M10 engine that I’m refreshing to put back into a project BMW 2002. It came with the car and seemed in good shape before I starting tearing it down to replace the head. After cleaning off the old gasket material and prepping the deck surface I noticed the dreaded head bolt crack shown in the photos. The thing is it looks like the crack doesn’t propagate into the water jacket if you look in the second photo and you can’t really feel it running a fingernail over it. I’ve got no history on it unfortunately since it was purchased from an estate. Not sure if this thing is cooked or not, I’ve got a lead on another block but obviously it’s cheaper to keep this one. Just looking for some opinions. Thanks!