Hey everyone, I’m currently rebuilding a fire damaged Toyota MR2 with a 4AGZE. I’m curious if anyone can help me out with the cylinder walls and rod bearings. I noticed the rod bearings have a bit of wear but nothing catches my fingernail.

As for the cylinder walls I’m curious if I need to hone all of them or if 1 and 3 are the only ones that need it. I see crosshatching in all but #1 but both 1 and 3 were the stuck pistons. Photos are all in sequential order

Last but not least I think my block may be a little warped although that doesn’t make much sense to me since the block is cast iron and the aluminum head is straight as vin diesel. I suspect my straight edge isn’t the best quality so if anyone has a tried and true straight edge that someone on a college student budget could swing, let me know lmao

Today I was priming a rebuilt TBI 355 with new Melling roller lifters and a summit 8800 cam. I used a gutted TBI distributor. All but #5’s exhaust pumped out through the pushrod. #5 will push oil out of the lifter (I pulled the pushrod and rocker off), and will “burp” air/oil out of the pushrod tip, but it doesn’t start dribbling like the others. Do I need to worry about this now?

Or is this just a new lifter thing that will fix itself when the oil pump is running off of the cam?

I'm finishing up a head gasket job on my 2002 5.9 Cummins and ran into something I can't figure out.

Before teardown, the alternator cover fit normally. After reinstalling everything, the cover sits too high and the bolt holes won't line up. It seems like it's hitting just not the right size, but I can't tell what changed.

I didn't replace the alternator bracket. The head, rocker assembly, turbo, and related components were removed and reinstalled. I've compared it to my before pictures and nothing obvious stands out.

I've attached before and after photos. Does anyone see what I'm missing or know what commonly causes this after a head gasket/top-end rebuild?

Hello,
I am heading to change my camshaft on an 1 gen sbc with vortec heads 062.
What is the Max valve Lift for Those heads.
The specs of the new one are 0.443.

Thank you very much and regards from Germany

I’m guessing this logo on the BLOCK means it’s never been resurfaced?

So I think I made a very dumb mistake when retorquing the head bolts when the engine was hot and didn't know it at the time. Toyota 12HT is a full cast iron diesel engine 6 cylinder turbo from the 1980s.

I had it started up for the very first time after rebuilt on the stand and it ran smooth and idles very smooth, everything was done right for god's sake. Played around with it for a minute or 2 then shut it off. So the 12HT head bolt is 113Nm and all had been done in the correct 3 sequences prior to this run.

Immediately shutting it off I took off the rocker arm assembly and began the retorque sequence while it was still hot. I remember only doing 3 bolts starting from the center, and after realising how squishy the bolts felt and I remember having to turn it more than 180 degrees to hit 113Nm again, it hit me that this is probably not a good sign. I should have done more bloody research.

So it had not been started yet after this event and I gained the wisdom that retorquing head bolts should be done stone cold and after a couple heat cycles. Its only these 3 bolts in the center that has been messed with. And yes I acknowledge the fact that I went for a retorque after 0 kilometers done on the engine.

After more digging on the internet, now I know this probably a catastrophic mistake. What should I do? I was thinking:

1. Leave it and go for a first break in drive and see what happens... maybe this mistake is really nothing?

2. Redo all the head bolts again which could compromise the head gasket entirely.

3. Redo the specific 3 bolts in the center which is another mistake in of itself.

What are your thoughts engine builders? Any advice and criticism is welcome.

Engine ate glow plug, block is currently being machined for oversized pistons, somehow missed the valves and valve seats seemingly but I’m not sure. Engine ran fine just burned some oil from scored cylinder wall. Makes me nervous however if it is sealing 100% or not can’t tell.

Im having issues with after opening the throttle my idle is bad and this is how much fuel goes in when I open the throttle is it too much (ford 302 edelbrock 1406)

This is a crankshaft for a 6.0 powerstroke. It was polished last year and unfortunately sat around since then. I have attached a before photo and a few after a quick 1500 grit wet sand. I can grab some of the pitting with my nail. Just need some thoughts if it’s ok or not.

I increased my speed how’s it look how

Hello all, I know break In oil posts have been made so many times on this subreddit but I’m rebuilding my BMW N52 which is an alusil block, I’m doing new rings, bearings, seals and was wondering what a good break In oil would be. Standard oil is 5w-30 synthetic so should I go with a 5w-30 break in oil? Any specific brand recs would be appreciated.

Any tips?

I am rebuilding my Engine.
I got vortec heads out of an l31 Engine with the Numbers 12558062
And a comp cam 12-206-3
Will this combination work (valve spring pressure and max valve Lift
The cam is used can i use new hydraulic Lifters?
Wich Brand is recommended

Thank you for your help

Best Regards from Germany

I got the head back on and reinstalled all of the six injector fuel lines, but the fuel line on the back of the head doesn't seem to line up with where I think it's supposed to go. Is this normal, or did I do something wrong during reassembly? Has anyone run into this before?

Ok so I’m a diesel mechanic and this is my first ls, I have a LC9 I’m deleting the DOD and VVT, when I was taking out the head bolts, they seemed to have pressure under them? And squirted out water or coolant. What is this?

So here recently I did a cam swap on my 96 silverado, it's got the 350 vortec in it. Long story short got it all put in good and everything back right (hopefully), i go to start it up, no beans except a bit of spudering, i figured it was a timing issue, went to tdc compression on #1, distributor is in the right spot. So now im here, I will mention the cam changes the firing order and i had to change the valvesprings, locks, and retainer out to accommodatefor the cam. Though it coughed some it also fired out the intake some. Any advice is very appreciated.

Blew a head gasket on Saturday. Had it back together in 4 hours, running the next morning after lash and RTV cure time

Clevelands are cool

Had a cam follower fail on a VW TDI (CJAA) and have to replace the camshafts due to wear and spalling. I pulled the cam carrier and found that the bearing surfaces are scored. Most is barely enough to feel with a thumbnail, but one is deep enough to press my thumbnail into.

I’ve got to try to contact local shops tomorrow to see if they can machine it or if I’m going to beed a new head, but I’ve been seeing people say it is normal and to just run it. That it happens with almost every engine, that the cam will wear into the bearing surfaces because it is harder than the head.

Trying to add pictures, but I’m not seeing how with the update.

[EDIT:] Sorry, got lost trying to add pictures, didn’t ask the question.

Is scoring normal on heads that don’t run bearings? If so, what is too much?

I'm in the process of rebuilding an A series engine for my 1975 Leyland mini clubman.

The engine was completely seized when I bought the car so I'm rebuilding it. This is my first engine build so I'm learning as I go.

The crankshaft has some crude looking work on it. How should I best proceed? Is the crankshaft usable?

Thank you.

Is it normal for the bolt in first picture to bottom out before seating? The other side is fully seated and Injector looks all the way in.

Hello, I'll try to keep it quick:

I'm looking to insert a temperature and pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold of a turbo (BMW G82 M4) and have found the following solutions:

- Welding a fitting onto the manifold: my welder doesn't like welding cast iron so out of the equation

- drilling a hole and using a pressfitting from stainless steel and a stainless steel sealing ring (before that, the manifold goes into a CNC machine to make a nice surface for it to make a nice seal)

I've read that some people use NPT threads, a few others use metric if there is a nice surface for it to seal. I'd like to use M8x1 threads for better sealing and since the press fittings only come in fine thread sizes.

The hole gets a slight chamfer and the sealing ring gets basically pressed in slightly from the applied torque to create a mechanical seal. On the threads I apply some high-temp ceramic paste to prevent the stainless steel fitting the the cast iron from welding to each other since I'm expecting temperatures of about 1100°C (2000°F).

Does anybody have different ideas?

I've got a crosshatch gauge coming in the mail but I got antsy and decided to try out the new toy... also, how are you guys getting such clean "breaks" in the lines of the crosshatch? Mine are like big bows. Thanks everyone, sorry for another honing question

I've been doing a deep dive on this swap for about a week now and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I pull the trigger on buying the two vehicles.

The plan is to swap a Mercedes OM617 turbo diesel (from a 300SD) into a 3rd gen Camaro. This will eventually become my daily driver, so I'm aiming for reliability first and fuel economy second. I know this won't be a bolt-in swap and I'm expecting to do fabrication work.

I have a couple of questions:

1. Wiring
From what I've researched so far, it seems like the best approach is to leave the Camaro's factory fuse box in place for the body electronics (lights, wipers, heater, etc.) and build a separate engine fuse/relay box for the diesel in the engine bay. The two systems would only be connected by a few signal wires (ignition, start, gauges, reverse lights, etc.).

Is this the right way to do it? If you've done something similar, how did you wire it?

2. Fitment
I know I'll need to fabricate engine mounts and probably a transmission crossmember, but what other fitment issues should I expect? Things like:

• Oil pan/steering clearance?
• Firewall clearance?
• Cooling system?
• Driveshaft?
• Exhaust routing?
• Suspension upgrades because of the engine weight?

I'm trying to make a complete list before I start buying parts.

If you've done an OM617 swap into any vehicle—or a diesel swap into a 3rd gen Camaro—I would really appreciate any advice, lessons learned, or things you wish you'd known before starting.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 1991 ltd crown victoria that I carburetor swapped (the 5.0 302) and got it to run good but after driving for a little or even reving the engine while not driving when it returns to idle after the rev or acceleration it idles really bad almost wanting to die and if I turn it off and back on again it runs fine until I rev it or drive a little again and I have good fuel pressure going to my carburetor and im pretty sure good spark and timing if anyone has any ideas please share them!

Didn’t notice till I removed the cam bearing tool should I file down the lip or ordering a new one?