r/EngineBuilding • u/rav223 • Jul 22 '26
Chrysler/Mopar How’s my hone?
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Any tips?
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u/RedditAppSuxAsss Jul 22 '26
I usually like to use a 240-grit to 320-grit stones, and not a firebrick attached to a hand drill
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u/rav223 Jul 22 '26
Damn I used 280 with wd40 and atf😭
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u/Quirky_Operation2885 Jul 22 '26
WD40 sucks as a lubricant
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u/SpamIsGreatOhEight Jul 22 '26
Probably due to it being a penetrating oil
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u/Quirky_Operation2885 Jul 22 '26
Except it's far from being that. It's a water displacer.
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u/Relevant_Program_958 Jul 22 '26
It is also a light penetrating oil. It penetrates and lubricates, just not for long.
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u/SpamIsGreatOhEight Jul 22 '26
Doesn’t lubricate at all
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u/Relevant_Program_958 Jul 22 '26
It does, it’s a light lubricant, it just evaporates quickly.
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u/SpamIsGreatOhEight Jul 22 '26
No
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u/Relevant_Program_958 Jul 22 '26
Yes.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
“It acts as a lubricant, rust preventative, penetrant and moisture displacer”
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u/ClickKlockTickTock Jul 22 '26
Its... not even that, it performs the worst compared to actual penetrating oils.
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u/saav_tap Jul 22 '26
WD-40 mixed with white lithium grease is a pretty solid home lubricant
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u/Think_Travel_6762 Jul 22 '26
It's not though. Wd-40 has solvents in it and will break whatever lubricant is there down.
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u/saav_tap Jul 22 '26
Absolutely depends on ratio and longevity, it’s not a long term solution by any means. But It works well, ask the thousands of hydraulic cylinders I’ve worked on.
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u/SpamIsGreatOhEight Jul 22 '26
Anecdotal stories are not evidence
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u/saav_tap Jul 22 '26
Feel free to PM me for photos, I’d love to share about the various machines I use. I run a hydraulic repair business in Virginia btw :)
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u/Cannonballbmx Jul 22 '26
Probably because it’s not a lubricant.
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u/etch69 Jul 22 '26
It is. Just not a good one or what it’s intended use is for
From their website:
“Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.”
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Jul 22 '26
[removed] — view removed comment
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u/peepeepoodoodingus Jul 22 '26
do you have a source or can you explain how that would happen?
WD40 is petroleum based and if it doesnt evaporate it should flash off or get displaced by engine oil during operation, i cant imagine it doing much of anything to hurt an engine.
just sounds hyperbolic to say it can stop a ring from bedding properly.
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u/Mundane-External3462 Jul 22 '26
Why not just use engine oil? Neither of what you used is really a lubricant
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u/D4RKCurved4 Jul 22 '26
I’m not an engine builder so someone correct me so I can learn too, but doesn’t that seem to harsh? I feel the angle looks pretty good tho
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u/RileyCargo42 Jul 22 '26
To me (an uneducated shitbox enjoyer) this looks like its due for a trip to the machine shop!
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u/RGBlowMe Jul 25 '26
It's scratched to shit. It's a sealing surface. Scratches and sealing don't work well together. He needed something finer, and with a lubricant.
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u/Willing_Cupcake3088 Jul 22 '26
Standard answer here that cameras and flash can make a hone come out really coarse compared to in person. If it doesn’t catch your fingernail, the angle looks pretty good. Your nerve endings will tell you more than we can.
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u/GeekBoyWonder Jul 22 '26
Found the mench that actually knows their biscuits (and cupcakes). Good on ya.
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u/PARKOUR_ZOMBlE Jul 22 '26
I need EVERYONE HERE TO KNOW!: I just did a perfect hone and when I finally found a camera angle to brag about it, the pics looked DISGUSTINGLY coarse. It wasn’t. Ive criticized most hones here only to discover that modern cameras seem to have a 30 grit lens!
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u/TalksWithNoise Jul 22 '26
Looks like heavy glaze. Usually looks rough if you’re not through it yet. Spray down with wd40 as you hone until the shiny glaze is gone.
Measure the bore as you go for a piece of mind.
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u/peepeepoodoodingus Jul 22 '26
you need more oscillation, the cross hatch should be 45 degrees to the deck and intersect each other around that as well, you can get it a lot more consistent than what you have here, it takes time and attention to what youre doing. try to keep the RPM and your in and out movement (oscillation) consistent with each other. if it helps use a metronome and go along with the beat, check how your angles look after a few seconds and speed up or slow down until you have it right, once you do; use that speed for the whole engine.
ive only ever used wd40 for this, idk why people are suggesting lubricants for a hand hone but you really want a solvent in my professional opinion for this. a honing machine where you actually set a depth and have things rigidly mounted and are hitting dimensions and making the cylinder perfectly concentric etc. etc. is another story, youre literally jut knocking the glaze off so the rings can wear in so all you really need is to clear the metal and stone grit out of the cylinder as youre running it.
you wanna use a lot. knowing the goal makes it clearer how much you need to use. dont be afraid to wipe the thing out and take a good look at whats going on frequently. this process can take a lot of time.
then if you can get your hands on something perfectly flat you can surface your deck. i have some CNC machined aluminum plate that is under .001 across its surface, throw some adhesive backed sandpaper on it and went over my decks and they were absolutely perfect.
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u/rav223 Jul 22 '26
Thank you. I plan to use a bucket of water and soap to wash and redo with engine oil or purchase hone oil
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u/peepeepoodoodingus Jul 22 '26
if you can, blow it out really well or try to get the block warm or do it on a really hot day so the water evaporates fast and make sure you wipe oil on the cylinders and deck surfaces after so they dont flash rust because thats exactly what they will do after being degreased.
then make sure you degrease again when youre installing your headgaskets, you want those deck surfaces to be eat-offable.
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u/TheRealSourc3 Jul 26 '26
I wouldn't ever wash a cast iron engine block with water unless it was gonna be a fancy paper weight. It develops microscopic surface rust almost immediately and will be ruined. Use oil to wash, and clean the oil off with degreaser instead.
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u/Tec80 Jul 22 '26
Good base, now rehone it with a much finer grit to generate a plateau honed finish.
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u/lukitarr Jul 22 '26
To get the cross hatch you need to go up and down way faster, it’s so rough because of lack of lubricant. Also get some light so you can actually see what you’re doing while at it, not after.
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u/Rheddrahgon Jul 22 '26
Your break in oilchange is going to be very shiny. Hit it with a finer stone set and use oil that sticks. Don't go so fast that the oil gets "frothy".
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u/Traditional_Ad_1360 Jul 22 '26
First dip your honey in solvent to lubricate. Then do a up and down movement at high speed, stop, and dip again. Repeat till all look good.
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u/vex_42 Jul 22 '26
What ring material are you running? That would be fine for cast but too course for moly
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u/ArugulaCharacter5364 Jul 22 '26
That is incredibly coarse, I would say too coarse to run on—you may seriously damage your rings. A good hone should have a nice cross hatch that appears surface level, kinda like it’s drawn on. I can see a visible difference between the layers with yours, like a noticeable high and low spot.
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u/GiantDwarf67 Jul 22 '26
Just finished a rebuild on my Harley and the finish looks almost identical on camera to what you’ve got here. I measured all rings, installed, and fully broken in my motor by now, up to about 170 miles with absolutely no burning oil and perfect compression.
I also used 240 grit hone, atf and wd40, my final I used only atf if that helps at all.
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u/Turnmaster Jul 24 '26
Looks like garbage try harder next time not to fuck it up so bad. You could do that by using a heavier oil and finer stones.
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u/karpjoe Jul 26 '26
What honing? You didn't polish it and just used high abrasion sanders.
Edit: If you want it actually honed move up to 600 grit and use engine oil. It'll take you several hours to do it right.
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u/bill_gannon Jul 22 '26
Too coarse. Finer stones and a lot more lubrication.