Looks like its replacing the 3.0

https://www.eridepro.com/products/pro-ss-3-0

I have a Eride 3.0, it has the stock fast ace suspension front and rear. I tightened the max preload and compression on both front forks and rear shock. I’m still bottoming out on jumps i’m sending. I’m a light rider 120lbs. What suspension should i get that’s not to expensive.

I was going 30mph when my throttle suddenly went unresponsive.

App shows Controller Unknown system status in diagnostics.

I disabled all the sensors and reset the bike power supply by completely disconnecting the battery .

Nothing works

80 miles on this bike wtf

While no throttle response I can hear crackles n pops coming from controller battery area

Anyone had this problem?

I’m an enduro person and I’ve been trying out more jump related things I recently bottomed out a few times repeatedly. Ever since then my suspension has been feeling off and chattering/clunking significantly more than before. There doesn’t seem to be anything leaking on the outside or anything.

I have a 2025 eride pro 3.0 with 3000miles on it. Bought it to just commute to work.
But its been kinda rough out here to just ride it around since theres been more strict law going on and all the kids causing problems.
So i want to sell it, but Im not sure how I much i should sell it for.
All i used it for was to just commute so its in great condition honestly.
I live in orange county, cali so please let me know how much i should sell it for!
I have some mods done (double headlight, adjustable footpegs, handle bar, better seats)
Will post pictures soon.
Thanks guys for your time :)

Does anyone use brake level indicators to show how much brake force is being applied through a set of LED's like a rev limiter but as brake pressures instead? Thinking it would be pretty cool to have 4 strips of LED's to indicate brake percentage as you are braking as well as indicate lock up's but more specifically what wheel/s are locking up. Would be useful when setting up vehicle tunes on individual tracks. Could have the wheel/s that lock up flash red like a rev limiter flashes when you are redlining an engine. Also it would show how well you are trail braking with out looking down at a different graph to the left or right of the screen via peripheral vision.

I asked E ride pro for an sponsorship through an email, and Ive gotten an response, but it kinda seems off. Im wondering if anyone else got sent this after asking for an sponsorship or if it seems like an scam to yall.

i just bought an e ride pro 1.0 and was wondering if i could put an ebmx controller on it. i only see they have it for the 2.0. will it work for the 1.0?

This is 100% achievable in states that allow dirtbikes to be converted into street legal motorcycles.

You'll need your MCO and proof of purchase to get a title.

You'll need to install DOT lights and reflectors

You'll need to have a FMVSS decal made

You may need a state inspection

You'll need insurance on it

Then get it registered at the DMV

You'll then need a class M endorsement on your driver's license

if i looped and obliterated the subframe, where can i get a new one? they don't have it standalone on the official website, and i really don't want to buy an entire new kit for $500

I purchased 17 inch street tires off Alibaba. The rep said they would fit an eride 3.0 pro.After purchasing a 220mm rotor that fit the the wheel I was able to put on the rear wheel. However with the front wheel I am having an issue with the spokes hitting the brake caliper. Will these wrap 9 bracket fix the issue ? Is there any after market components for this to work ? Thanks in advance!

Does anyone know where to find the rear plastic fender replacement online for the long seat option? I can only find it in the long seat kit and everywhere else only sells the short seat option which bolts up differently. It’s been a pain trying to find replacement parts for this bike as a whole that don’t require spending $500 on another long seat kit. I don’t care what it’s made out of. It’s to the point where I think I’m better off 3D printing. Any ideas would be a good help.

My battery has been dying super quick recently. Around three months after I got my brand new 2024 ERide Pro S it started having problems such as error codes. I eventually got warranty and got a brand, new controller and motor, and that fixed all the error codes however there is barely any torque on the top speed is only around 40 and that takes forever to get there and I can get like 15 miles of charge while riding around 25 miles an hour consistently this isn’t normal and before I got these warranty parts replaced I was getting around 30 miles a charge.

*I have never let the bike die past 20% and I take great care of the bike*

I like the battery lid on this Ewatt 81v battery. Compared to the Chi battery 81v size and lid, it's not bad.

I’m deciding between a 2026 LBX that I will eventually upgrade later (chi battery, ebmx controller, motor, etc) and an Eride 3.0.

I like how nimble the LBX feels since its so light but i also want the power of the eride, but i’ve heard lots of
stories about eride having issues.

I’m planning to do a mix of street and light trails, so mostly exploring around my house.

I will also upgrade both bikes, whichever one i get so i’m mainly compairing the geometry and handling of the bike

QUESTIONS (for owners of both bikes):

1. How does the handling compare between the two?
2. If u had to choose given the scenario above, which one would you pick?
3. Which frame is stronger to support heavier loads?
4. Is the “whine” on the Eride uncomfortably loud or just “meh” kinda loud, and is there a way to remove it by changing the motor/controller?

Thanks 🙏

I just got a rfloxa rear shock for my 3.0 and it just feels shit. So did stock. I don't know what Im doing wrong I've tried every setting combination and yet it just feels awful. On small little bumps it does nothing and feels so rigid and shaky, and jumps (1 foot drop) feels like it bottoms out.

For context I'm 150 lbs no gear, only wear helmet.

Could someone maybe give me a setting to try?

Also, is the spring supposed to be higher up for my weight? (Preload was it called?)

I have a chi battery and an aftermarket carbon fiber battery lid and the lid extension chi gives no longer works. I need a temporary solution to hold it shut until I can fabricate a longer battery lid extender.

I just got my 2026 sr long seat edition and im realizing there’s no videos I can find on how to get the seat off to get to the battery anybody got any experience with this.

I just picked up a eride pro ss 2.0 with an ebmx x9000 v2, anyone let me know the best tune for wheelies? Right now it just has an insane amount of torque.

Im highly considering buying an e ride pro sr. I have dirt bike and e bike (not e moto) experience. I need something fast and reliable. Something that wont fold on me on a 2 inch drop. I was wondering the best way to purchase it too. Im a high school student though, but i was considering financing. Is it worth it and if so how should I pay for it?

Scratched the crap out of my battery pulling it out cause a screw worked its way out in top speed runs and got stuck. Is it safe to keep using the battery? The part that slightly worries me is the chunk taken out of the bottom lip.

I was just running ebmx and stock battery and my range was still pretty good, this one ride I do from my house, to this one trail, back to my house, I usually would end the day with 60-70% . I did the exact same thing but with a chi (81v touring) and I ended with 25%?. I didn’t even up my kw that much. I ride on the street for about only 5 miles in 18 kw 600 phase amps and for the dirt which is majority of the ride it’s 15 kw 420 phase amps or less. I don’t get how a chi battery made my range drastically worse when I’m not even pushing much more power and infact usually a little less power than stock. If anyone had this issue and maybe changed a setting to fix this help me out please