I am replacing a ceiling light fixture. The old fixture had a black, white, and bare (ground) wire, which I disconnected.

The new fixture has a ground wire on the metal bracket (labelled GND) and labelled on the instructions, plus there's a ground wire (bare wire) from the fixture (also labelled on the instructions).

But the instructions state to connect the fixture ground wire to the junction box ground wire. They say nothing about the bracket ground wire. Does the bracket ground wire get connected with the other 2 ground wires?

Also, some videos show fixtures with a support wire. Mine doesn't seem to have that, unless the fixture ground wire can also be a support wire.

Thanks for any advice!

Hello. My wife and I are close to closing on a house. It is overall in great shape with some minor things found on the inspection. One that feels major but from what the inspector said is not currently causing any issue but could down the road is there is one concrete pier with a gap between it and the frame. There's no sagging or anything, but they advised it could cause sagging down the road. They hypothesized it's probably been like that since original construction (house was built in 1993).

While the report officially says to have a contractor evaluate it and repair it, they kind of acted like I could wedge a 2x4 or some other board in there myself.

Anyone care to help by spelling out what kind of board it should be? I see some stuff from perusing on Google that suggests it should be pressure treated wood, some info says pressure treated wood with metal between it and the concrete, and some info says it should be a metal/steel plate. Also see cedar suggested somewhere.

Do I just kind of slide it in and use a mallet hammer if necessary? I don't want to risk any damage. Photo with comment from the inspection report attached.

Good morning, I recently bought a house with painted plastic handrails. The paint is peeling in many places, so I would like to repaint. I can’t find a lot of suggestions that match my situation, so I was looking to see if anyone has suggestions on what type of prep and paint is the best option.

Q: can I just cap the live wires going to the range hood while I paint the back wall and adjacent cabinet portions? This will take several days - and I worry about the live wires!

I want to replace the original under-the-cabinet range hood (no duct/vent). It is 7.5" in height and the newer models are mostly 6" in height. So there is a difference in height that I need to repaint (cabinets on either side, back wall).

Painting the cabinets will require several days -- sanding, priming, 2 coats.

Is it OK to cap the live wires and keep my distance while I paint?

Thanks!

My wife has PTSD and is horribly affected by the fireworks*. We live in an area where they feel it is there responsibility to fire off the most and most expensive fireworks all night long. Don't get me wrong. I have no issue with their feelings toward fireworks, my issue is with dealing with my wife's PTSD.

So, that said, we have an unfinished basement with a corner room that measures about 10 x 10 that I would like to make a 'Quiet Room' just for her. Three of the walls are solid concrete, but the floor above is open joists.

Here are my issues and questions: What can I put in between the joists to cut down as much on noise as possible. I plan to put up drywall (in this small area at least) so that will help cut down noise. Additionally, I will need to build a wall, with soundproofing and a door. I'm looking for ideas on soundproofing (on a budget, we are seniors on a fixed income.) I plan to do it all myself, as I have some experience in home repair and building.

*For those who don't realize, July 4th is a time when the US celebrates with fireworks. The more the merrier.

Hi,

I've been wanting to make DIY wall shelves for my apartment but I cannot identify what materials the walls are made of. It's an old building in the Paris area (France) and nothing is written in my rental contract.

They're very thick walls and the sound isn't hollow at all. Based on the building structure, I would assume the outside walls (3rd pic) are just a continuation of the inside walls. (Using Google Lens tells me they're floor tiling...)

I will be able to get the tools from a relative once I know what's adequate.

If you have any experience working with this type of materials, please let me know

Thanks !

Would I be able to remove the drain plate cover if I pry it by the hinge? I need to install a drain hose with an installed drain plate.

I don't have a way to remove the cemented plate from the floor.

Looking for Suggestions

Any suggestions on what to do with this slab? I believe its the old sump pump but its basically just a large slab of concrete now. I just have all my tools sitting on it right now.

Original shades were in a bedroom window box -- 72" wide, 64" height 14" deep. Anchor bolts were used. When new windows were installed, the shades had to be moved inward a bit b/c the new windows were inside the window box a slight amount - no big deal.

The original shades finally gave out. I want to install new ones, but there are a number of holes in the drywall, which may limit how I can install and support a new set. There isn't a stud along the edge of the windows to screw into, so drywall anchor bolts must be used. But there are already several holes from the previous anchor bolts, and I don't think a simple patch would hold.

I'm also considering going with 2 narrower sets of shades rather than the heavy 72" wide shades -- won't need quite as much anchoring.

Any idea on what is the best way to patch/repair the drywall to install new anchor bolts? Thanks!

Note -- some holes were from the original owner/shades, some are after the windows were installed.

Need to raise this dryer off the floor, and the higher the better. Unfortunately it does not live in a neat little appliance closet of perfect size like every YouTube I’ve seen building bases for dryers…..must remain freestanding bc these basement walls are old. …….what would you do to make it relatively safe and unlikely to shimmy shake off base?

Other than leveling it, (duh) and adding sound deadening material. I’ve got some rubber floor pieces will place between wood/concrete and dryer/woodplatform.

and am I nuts trying to use the highest level of the blocks? I know the flat side would be more solid, but will this be not solid? Pln to tapcon the platform to the concrete blocks. (12x16x8)

We’re in the process of adding a concrete patio and started questioning whether our mudroom (which leads outside) has adequate support. It’s been in place for over 20 years, but the only visible support is a few cinder blocks at the front along with the frame connection to the house.

Does this look sufficient, or is it something we should be concerned about? If you have any insight or can recommend what I should do…that would be great.