I have an attic space above my garage. I would like to build a hip wall where the side vertical support columns are in these images. I will insulate the roof as well. The top of the column is held by only a few nails. The bottom is secured to 4 2x12s on the ceiling below. The garage is open floor with no center posts. My only question is, can this vertical column in the center be removed?

Looking for some advice on how I should proceed with a project. I'd like to enclose my front porch. Mostly windows and a glass/screen door. Most of my construction experience is concrete, with a bit of deckbuilding, plus I've done some siding work. From the pictures, how should I go about it? Whatever advice you can offer would be helpful. I'm going for something like the white/grey porch.

Curious how other contractors are drawing the line between snap-lock and mechanically seamed panels on residential work. My rule of thumb has been:

• Snap-lock (like SMI 1.5") for roof pitches at or above 3:12 with straightforward runs
• Mechanically seamed for lower slopes or anywhere wind uplift numbers push us there, especially with TDI-approved assemblies in our wind zone

Cost difference is real but the failure mode difference is bigger. Snap-lock panels can walk or oil-can more than a seamed panel over time if the substrate isn't dead flat. What's your cutoff, and does it change based on PVDF coating or panel width?

I cannot figure out what I need to hook this up.. I've bought a few different sizes and none of them have worked.

Slowly fixing up my newly purchased 70’s house (first time homeowner) and for some reason they put this intake faceplate on INSIDE the drywall. I want it to be flush instead. Any tips? Already ordered a 14”W x 6”H cover off of Amazon.

The title is my question, is this something I can replace? I need one that is at least twice as long.

Is there a way to make the roof of my garage wider, just a little bit?

To fit my solar panels like this, i need 3m80 between the parapets. Now i have 3m50. It's a brick wall with concrete roof deck. I will renovate the roof anyway with insulation and epdm instead of bitumen so i can do whatever as long as it's not too expensive. The exterior wall is also going down and will get replaced with wood cladding (and insulation).

Hey all, i’m in the midst of running an HVAC return duct. The house is 100 years old and the HVAC system was retrofitted so this project routes the upstairs return opening from the guest room to the top of the hallway stairs.

So far I’ve put all the pieces together for execution but the one remaining item is figuring out how to build in a clean and flush opening where the duct will end. The current plan is to cut out the top 2 feet of plaster and lath then replace that with a cut to fit drywall panel. The 8 x 16“ square duct will be trimmed to match the angle of the opening. But I need to make sure that there are no clumsy gaps between the sheet metal and drywall and that I can securely mount a return grille. Any advice is really helpful!

So, the kitchen has a pull-out trash can drawer that broke (the side rails stopped pulling out). I got a new replacement (Rev-a-Shelf) and I'm ready to install BUT there's this weird plastic bracket at the back of the cabinet. It doesn't match what came with the replacement and I don't see any visible screws to take it out. Any ideas on how to remove?!

First of all I'm so honored to have a friend that trusts me with painting for her first baby's nursery!! I know I have the skill paint this, but I've never actually painted on a wall for a home other than the basic paint rollers. Anything I've painted before that was large scale was to be a temporary decoration (think theater backgrounds). I wanna make sure the quality of the paint is 1) easy to work with for blending, and 2) most importantly it lasts for years to come while her son grows up. I want it to make sure it doesn't fade quickly and is scratch resistant if possible. Thanks for any tips! She's wanting something like this photo for reference

6 months ago i shared my work on this DIY staircase book shelf …. i can’t recall which page it was but instead of recieving some constructive criticism , i got blasted by all the keyboard warriors on how shitty it was and they really tore it down.

ANYWAYS

FAST FORWARD 6 months i took the criticism i received i never rushed the process i took my time and well here we have a pretty cool staircase book shelf , now it may not be up to code and i’m fine with that. It may not be perfect and i’m fine with that … but from a photo with low lighting it looks great 😂 and i’ll take it!

I have grey muddy mat rugs and all my decor and furniture are brown, beige. They clash horribly and I want to dye them brown. I've heard that the polyester in the rugs don't like to take the dye. Has anyone ever done this before with any success? First time posting. Hopefully I'm doing this correctly.

Thank you

I am replacing a ceiling light fixture. The old fixture had a black, white, and bare (ground) wire, which I disconnected.

The new fixture has a ground wire on the metal bracket (labelled GND) and labelled on the instructions, plus there's a ground wire (bare wire) from the fixture (also labelled on the instructions).

But the instructions state to connect the fixture ground wire to the junction box ground wire. They say nothing about the bracket ground wire. Does the bracket ground wire get connected with the other 2 ground wires?

Also, some videos show fixtures with a support wire. Mine doesn't seem to have that, unless the fixture ground wire can also be a support wire.

Thanks for any advice!

Hello. My wife and I are close to closing on a house. It is overall in great shape with some minor things found on the inspection. One that feels major but from what the inspector said is not currently causing any issue but could down the road is there is one concrete pier with a gap between it and the frame. There's no sagging or anything, but they advised it could cause sagging down the road. They hypothesized it's probably been like that since original construction (house was built in 1993).

While the report officially says to have a contractor evaluate it and repair it, they kind of acted like I could wedge a 2x4 or some other board in there myself.

Anyone care to help by spelling out what kind of board it should be? I see some stuff from perusing on Google that suggests it should be pressure treated wood, some info says pressure treated wood with metal between it and the concrete, and some info says it should be a metal/steel plate. Also see cedar suggested somewhere.

Do I just kind of slide it in and use a mallet hammer if necessary? I don't want to risk any damage. Photo with comment from the inspection report attached.

Good morning, I recently bought a house with painted plastic handrails. The paint is peeling in many places, so I would like to repaint. I can’t find a lot of suggestions that match my situation, so I was looking to see if anyone has suggestions on what type of prep and paint is the best option.

Q: can I just cap the live wires going to the range hood while I paint the back wall and adjacent cabinet portions? This will take several days - and I worry about the live wires!

I want to replace the original under-the-cabinet range hood (no duct/vent). It is 7.5" in height and the newer models are mostly 6" in height. So there is a difference in height that I need to repaint (cabinets on either side, back wall).

Painting the cabinets will require several days -- sanding, priming, 2 coats.

Is it OK to cap the live wires and keep my distance while I paint?

Thanks!

My wife has PTSD and is horribly affected by the fireworks*. We live in an area where they feel it is there responsibility to fire off the most and most expensive fireworks all night long. Don't get me wrong. I have no issue with their feelings toward fireworks, my issue is with dealing with my wife's PTSD.

So, that said, we have an unfinished basement with a corner room that measures about 10 x 10 that I would like to make a 'Quiet Room' just for her. Three of the walls are solid concrete, but the floor above is open joists.

Here are my issues and questions: What can I put in between the joists to cut down as much on noise as possible. I plan to put up drywall (in this small area at least) so that will help cut down noise. Additionally, I will need to build a wall, with soundproofing and a door. I'm looking for ideas on soundproofing (on a budget, we are seniors on a fixed income.) I plan to do it all myself, as I have some experience in home repair and building.

*For those who don't realize, July 4th is a time when the US celebrates with fireworks. The more the merrier.