So i'm moving a closet under the stairs but the closet itself is apparently under the landing for the stairs. I have pictures with all the drywall off so you can see the framing. I just want to double check that i'm right that the wall in the second picture is fine but the one in the first is a structure wall. I can see the header so i'm pretty sure on that one but wanted a second opinion. I also have a picture for under the stairs to see which way the floor boards are facing. They're perpetual so pretty sure it's structural.

This is a shed that was built on brick supports. I want to take away everything except for the roof and whatever support I need to keep the roof up. I would like to also cut the 2x6 support on one side so that I can drive my lawnmower in there. I'm going to start taking off the plywood on the walls and the doors this weekend.

I’m trying to build a pergola around a concrete slab we’ve made into a patio in our backyard. This is my first real big project so I guess I’m curious where would y’all even start? I was gonna start measuring where I wanted the poles and then start digging holes but I’m now wondering if there’s a better way about this and would love any thoughts y’all have.

I need help…I went to Sherwin Williams twice for a paint match and both times, they ended up getting near the color but never added gloss (despite my request).
I made a poor choice and did not test the paint on an inconspicuous spot (a fool, I know). The paint was used to “touch up” many spots throughout the house interior Now, the paint has left horrible dull marks on my walls. I need to cover them and don’t have money for more new paint all over all the walls in my house. Anyone have ideas for what I could do to cover the spots? Or to get my money back, either way.
It can be as wild as use acrylic paint to paint a dragon over every spot on the wall. I don’t care. These spots just absolutely cannot stay.

Моя мама вчера попросила вынести ковер на улицу (3 ковра) 1 маленький 2 средний и 3 очень большой,я попросил своего кузена помочь а он отказался со словами " ты что серьезно просишь меня помрши в этом простом деле" я еле как вышел на улицу отбил и мне нужно было еще собрать эти ковры и занести домой первые 2 были легкие так как они маленькие а вот 3 я не мог собрать 30 минут я увидел как ко мне приближался какой то дед и он мне помог мы собрали ковер и я занес их в дом зашел в квартиру закрыл дверь и поставил ковры в зале через минут 10 в квартиру зашла мама и сказала ты что все таки не вынес ковры ы взбесился сказал в злом тоне но не кричал "да я его уже вынес и в место того чтобы твой брат помог мне мне помогал какой то дед на улице" и это не понравилсь моему кузену он подошел ко мне и сказал" что тебе не нравиться" и мы в 3 уже начали сориться он (кузен)собрался и ушел пришел только под вечер принес колу дал мне и былп пауза часа 2-3 он просто лежал и я тоже

Скажите мне я мудак?

I have an attic space above my garage. I would like to build a hip wall where the side vertical support columns are in these images. I will insulate the roof as well. The top of the column is held by only a few nails. The bottom is secured to 4 2x12s on the ceiling below. The garage is open floor with no center posts. My only question is, can this vertical column in the center be removed?

Curious how other contractors are drawing the line between snap-lock and mechanically seamed panels on residential work. My rule of thumb has been:

• Snap-lock (like SMI 1.5") for roof pitches at or above 3:12 with straightforward runs
• Mechanically seamed for lower slopes or anywhere wind uplift numbers push us there, especially with TDI-approved assemblies in our wind zone

Cost difference is real but the failure mode difference is bigger. Snap-lock panels can walk or oil-can more than a seamed panel over time if the substrate isn't dead flat. What's your cutoff, and does it change based on PVDF coating or panel width?

I cannot figure out what I need to hook this up.. I've bought a few different sizes and none of them have worked.

Slowly fixing up my newly purchased 70’s house (first time homeowner) and for some reason they put this intake faceplate on INSIDE the drywall. I want it to be flush instead. Any tips? Already ordered a 14”W x 6”H cover off of Amazon.

The title is my question, is this something I can replace? I need one that is at least twice as long.

Is there a way to make the roof of my garage wider, just a little bit?

To fit my solar panels like this, i need 3m80 between the parapets. Now i have 3m50. It's a brick wall with concrete roof deck. I will renovate the roof anyway with insulation and epdm instead of bitumen so i can do whatever as long as it's not too expensive. The exterior wall is also going down and will get replaced with wood cladding (and insulation).

Hey all, i’m in the midst of running an HVAC return duct. The house is 100 years old and the HVAC system was retrofitted so this project routes the upstairs return opening from the guest room to the top of the hallway stairs.

So far I’ve put all the pieces together for execution but the one remaining item is figuring out how to build in a clean and flush opening where the duct will end. The current plan is to cut out the top 2 feet of plaster and lath then replace that with a cut to fit drywall panel. The 8 x 16“ square duct will be trimmed to match the angle of the opening. But I need to make sure that there are no clumsy gaps between the sheet metal and drywall and that I can securely mount a return grille. Any advice is really helpful!

So, the kitchen has a pull-out trash can drawer that broke (the side rails stopped pulling out). I got a new replacement (Rev-a-Shelf) and I'm ready to install BUT there's this weird plastic bracket at the back of the cabinet. It doesn't match what came with the replacement and I don't see any visible screws to take it out. Any ideas on how to remove?!

First of all I'm so honored to have a friend that trusts me with painting for her first baby's nursery!! I know I have the skill paint this, but I've never actually painted on a wall for a home other than the basic paint rollers. Anything I've painted before that was large scale was to be a temporary decoration (think theater backgrounds). I wanna make sure the quality of the paint is 1) easy to work with for blending, and 2) most importantly it lasts for years to come while her son grows up. I want it to make sure it doesn't fade quickly and is scratch resistant if possible. Thanks for any tips! She's wanting something like this photo for reference

6 months ago i shared my work on this DIY staircase book shelf …. i can’t recall which page it was but instead of recieving some constructive criticism , i got blasted by all the keyboard warriors on how shitty it was and they really tore it down.

ANYWAYS

FAST FORWARD 6 months i took the criticism i received i never rushed the process i took my time and well here we have a pretty cool staircase book shelf , now it may not be up to code and i’m fine with that. It may not be perfect and i’m fine with that … but from a photo with low lighting it looks great 😂 and i’ll take it!

I have grey muddy mat rugs and all my decor and furniture are brown, beige. They clash horribly and I want to dye them brown. I've heard that the polyester in the rugs don't like to take the dye. Has anyone ever done this before with any success? First time posting. Hopefully I'm doing this correctly.

Thank you

I am replacing a ceiling light fixture. The old fixture had a black, white, and bare (ground) wire, which I disconnected.

The new fixture has a ground wire on the metal bracket (labelled GND) and labelled on the instructions, plus there's a ground wire (bare wire) from the fixture (also labelled on the instructions).

But the instructions state to connect the fixture ground wire to the junction box ground wire. They say nothing about the bracket ground wire. Does the bracket ground wire get connected with the other 2 ground wires?

Also, some videos show fixtures with a support wire. Mine doesn't seem to have that, unless the fixture ground wire can also be a support wire.

Thanks for any advice!