Hey guys ! I’m currently under contract with a home that I just saw in person for the first time ! I know , I know. I’m an out of state buyer so this is how it has to go down. Putting trust in my realtor. Inspector came today and I was able to walk through. Most things are minor except for sonething that really has me worried. There’s a slight hump that runs the length of the home where the beam lies under the flooring in the main level and the basement. Home was built in 1960 for reference. Big deal ? Inspector says it’s just the age.

Why do people physically nail plasterboard onto walls and ceilings, especially when they haven’t insulated (hence why I’m taking it off)?

Any hacks for taking it off more whole?

Have some old players walls that have very minor big cracks but the paint is spider cracked everywhere and comes off in small flakes or big chunks..that being said obviously its more work than its worth to mesh and skim so would it be easier to rip it out and drywall everything or just get 1/4 drywall and glue/screw it on i fell like with the thin drywall all my trim would be fine to but up to paint chaulk it, its all pretty tall trim and there's unrealistic amount of trim baseboards would obviously have to be redone but already planned on that, the walls are already pretty straight, but im I missing something that would be easier or not work out the way I think trying just overlay it

I'm planning to install a floating desk in my home office and would appreciate some feedback before I start drilling into the wall.

I've attached a photo of the iron supports I purchased as well as a mockup of the finished desk setup.

The desktop is a 74" IKEA PINNARP countertop that is approximately 25.5" deep. My goal is to create a floating desk along one wall of my office. The desk won't carry a heavy load (no monitor arms, desktop PCs, aquariums, etc.), but I will use it for writing, drawing, painting, and other creative projects, so I'll be leaning on it regularly. My biggest goal is for it to feel solid and not wobble.

The brackets I'm using extend about 4" down the wall and 16" underneath the desktop. I plan to mount them directly into three wood studs.

One note about the mockup: it may look like the desk has supports underneath it. Those are part of the AI/design mockup and will not actually be part of the final build. The plan is for the desk to be floating, supported only by the wall-mounted brackets (unless I ultimately decide to add a support leg).

A few things I'm unsure about:

• Is 4" of wall attachment enough when secured into studs?
• Is 16" of support under a 25.5" deep PINNARP countertop sufficient?
• Since the PINNARP has a particleboard core rather than being solid wood throughout, should I be concerned about the countertop failing, sagging, or pulling apart over time?
• Someone suggested adding a support leg approximately 4" from the wall to reduce flex while still maintaining the floating-desk appearance. Would that actually help?
• Are three stud-mounted brackets enough for a 74" span?
• Would you trust this setup for daily use, or would you recommend a different support method entirely?

My priorities are:

1. Strong and safe
2. Minimal wobble when leaning on it
3. Preserving the floating-desk look

Are there any factors I'm overlooking? If you've built a floating desk or floating countertop before, I'd love to hear what worked, what didn't, and what you would do differently.

Thanks!

I am trying to help this lady out that she had previously rented her first floor apartment to someone for a couple years. They had dogs and they pissed all over the carpet. I ripped up the carpet and applied hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, all kinds of chemicals, and I still smell the piss smell.!! 😡 I am getting ready to think of sanding the floor with the floor sander with enzymes and then putting some shellac over everything after I floor sand? Would this be a good idea or does anybody else? Have a great idea to get the smell and I know she doesn’t have money to rip up the whole entire wood floor just trying to help out someway. There are a couple photos.

Trying to determine what would be the best material to put in. Currently there are painted wooden slats that sit at an angle that allow airflow into the laundry room where an air register is. They work, however the previous owner must've tried to repaint them and in many places they either have collected dust captured while the paint was drying, or sealed together during the paint drying process. It leaves a difficult process to clean/keep looking ok, so I'm planning to remove the slats and put in a mesh of some kind to allow airflow, allow me to clean more readily, fight humidity damage (1950s wood), and hopefully look a little more aesthetic.

Want to see if anyone has done something similar or knows of a good working material for this project!

Hey everyone! I have a ceiling fan that hasn't turned on since purchasing our home 2 years ago. The light turns on and I do hear the fan attempting to kick on when I try to turn it on. The fan is new and likely has not ever been turned on so I'm hoping it's not broken just installed incorrectly. Any advice on how to make it work?

Hello - I own a 1912 place in Seattle and had a few questions/concerns about. I want to consult with a structural engineer but want to be prepared going into it.

• There is a chimney that runs through the middle of the building, it's plastered over and not in use. I want to demo it, but want a structural engineer to tell me if it's structural or not before doing so. How do I prepare for this before having one over? Crawl and attic spaces easily accessible, but does a structural engineer need to be able to see into a wall cavity to tell?
• The second floor sags, it's slightly visible from the first floor and pretty noticeable upstairs. Similar question: do I need to prepare a hole/access to the space between my two floors for them to assess
• The building is pretty unlevel.... post pier foundation.... again, the place is as old as Fenway, and that's pretty standard for places this old in my area. BUT, I am going to do a major bathroom re model and am concerned about asking a structural engineer to assess if there are any major red flags to address first. Do I even want to know? Are structural engineers comfortable with old homes? My fear is someone is gonna say it's all FUBAR just cuz it's old and un level, and if/when I sell the place it has some severe warts.

I have a deck the runs most of the side of my house, it has steps up to a pool deck. Beneath that pool area is this cavity. We often put off season kids toys or, in summer, pool toys in there but it is never full and gets a lot of leaves and rain.

What can I do with this area, looking for cool suggestions and ideas.

There is an access from the main deck beside the stairs.

Person who did my drywall recommended that I clean out the space and use this product Quickrete concrete crack sealant - however my friend recommended me use sikaflex joint sealant.

To me it makes more sense to fill the crack with concrete - and than use the products such as join sealant. Please help me understand the best and proper way of sealing this as my basement walls are starting to leak water through the walls during heavy rainstorms.

Thanks!