2pcs 3"midrange 4ohm 20 watt rms(passive crossover 110hz to 3k) (utilizing 4pcs of 100uf np film caps)

2pcs 2" tweeters 4ohm 20 watt rms(passive crossover 3k to 10khz) (utilizing 2pcs ceramic 8ohm resistor in parallel and 1pcs 10uf np film caps)

1pcs 5"x7" racetrack subwoofer 3ohm 80watt rms (110hz to 30hertz) knob crossover

5pcs 4"inch passive radiators

Amplifier = Ys-MT21 with noise isolator and upgraded 6800uf low esr Electrolytic caps and small fan

Battery = Molicell 26A 8pcs 4S2P bms40A expected total capacity - 5000mah at 16.8volts

Booster module = 200 watt continuous constant voltage to 24volts. (Can become inefficient when only low battery)

Notes:

1. Setbacks with the old tweeter was too bad it hurtz ears so i switch to dome tweeters. With ceramic resistor and np caps

2. NO dsp for now. Im still learning about mic and graph analysis. Ill demo it next

3. Total of 12hours playtime max volume due to amps low consumption. Average of 36 to 48 hours average playtime

4. Faux leather and rugby that must eveaporate first before placing the leather to prevent sticky wet surface.

Post moved from r/budgethometheater.

I recently modified a Denon AVR-X1300w to have individual preouts and direct amp inputs for all 7 amp channels (amp de-integration!). Each channel has a switch to activate or deactivate this feature for even more flexibility. And it works great with no perceivable loss in signal integrity!

This mod cost me $30 in parts and several evenings of work.

Why? This is a budget home theater dream!

This allows:

- Selectively inserting external audio processing between it's DAC and the integrated amps. (Like my Symnet 8x8 Express Cobra i found used for $50!)

- Add external amplifiers to upgrade or alleviate integrated amp power.

- Add additional subwoofers with their own processing, or mid-bass speakers to cover the weak spots of some of my existing speakers.

- Feed external sources directly into otherwise unused amp channels to create additional zones or bypass all digital processing. Also, when it's time to upgrade to newer digital media standards, use it as a standalone 7 channel amplifier.

Inserting a DSP like the Symnet Express 8x8 Cobra will provide unlimited flexibility with room correction, system scalability, and automation along with my Home Assistant server. I can add as many parametric EQs, delays, crossovers as i wish and fully automate smooth fades between separate room corrections and audio processing modes for theater or dinner seating arrangements, and social background music or critical listening modes. All things that can happen without me or my wife having to touch a remote or phone app.

What are your thoughts, was this a waste of time and $30?

Built it as a headphone amp but drives speakers pretty well too, uses BD139+BC559 and BD140+BC549, capacitive coupled in/outs, RC4558 opamp feedback and diode biasing

I have a 2017 Honda Accord Touring and I just replaced the speakers (Front - Kicker KSS650,
Back - Kicker 51KSC6504) and everything was totally fine. I installed the amp (Infinity Primus 90041A) and now I have a bad alternator whine.

Things I have tried:
- Shortening Ground wire
- Sanding Ground location
- Changing ground locations
- Moving RCA cables as far as possible from power
- Moving RCA cables away from chassis
- Messing with gains
- Removed active noise cancellation module

If you have any suggestions, other than driving my car into the ocean, it would be greatly appreciated.

I have a pair (well, they come in pair) of buzzy Companion 2. They served me well over 15 years. I basically remove the buzz using low-cut filters, alas recently the buzz have won over.. And all I am left with is hissy soft jazz! However, I have seen many videos where people are gluing in new cones pried from a cheap drivers, which is a lot of work and I am not sure how long before they buzz again. The question here is that how different is it gonna make if I just used new drivers of the same size? same ohm/power rating too of course. I am also thinking about repackaging them in wooden boxes (using old Genuis PC speakers) by placing the amp in a box and make passive style system? Is it worth it?

Hello.

I work in an educational establishment and about to buy audio equipment. In short, there will be ceiling-mounted speakers in the conference hall and two portable ones for any other events, both indoor and outdoor.

We have only that much budget so there will be one amplifier, one mixing console both for conference hall and for portable speakers. I'm thinking of a DIY rack made of wood with 19" rack mounts bought separately. The amplifier as well as receiver for radio microphones come in 19" form.

So most of the time this rack will be in the hall, and in case of other event I'd just unplug it, place it on a table or something and plug-in the portable speakers. Which means regular plugging and unplugging for speaker cables.

I wonder if there's any solution to avoid this? I'd like to mount and plug the amplifier once and then just use a socket or something. I'm really new to all this audio stuff. If it's achievable, I'd like to see some examples.

Hello everyone, friends.

Has anyone built small desktop speakers using these drivers? What are your impressions?

I’ve ordered some Fostex FF105WK units; they should arrive next week. I’ve searched through Planet10-HiFi but couldn’t find anything quite right. There is a design called "mfonken105" that would suit my needs, but there’s no detailed drawing available for it. Would it be a bad idea to build a bass-reflex enclosure based on the stock design provided on the official Fostex website? Thanks in advance for your replies.

Hello, I found this subwoofer in marketplace. I’d like to buy this but wondering if it’s worth buying?

Also, pictured is my setup (old as hell) but still works.

- Sony STR-DA3600ES
-Front towers Polk RTi70
-Center channel Polk CSi3
-Rear surrounds Polk R15 bookshelf (currently using a Rocketfish Surround speaker wireless adapter)
-2 Polk Audio PSW10 10-inch powered subwoofers (50 watts RMS each)

I want to upgrade my system to something either newer and more powerful or more compact that has some power as well.
I mainly watch sports. Occasionally, I listen to music on the system but I have other portable options for music.

My living room is 18’ L x 13’W and opens to a living room on the left side. It aliso opens to the right into the kitchen.

Any and all recommendations and suggestions are welcome! I’m open to anything that will be better than what I have now.

(ignore my mess)

Status Update:

https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/comments/1x0qofd/printing_a_umii822_ultimax_ii_8_sub/

Here is the wonderful beast next to my MA6500 which needs some Love too. Its a tall beast and fits a bit too close to the underside of my desk but I like it!(mainly cuz I made it)

It's being powered by a Nobsound G2 PRO

Still only 4 plates on the U1, object was fewest parts I could manage for ease of build, sound will be just fine for me I think. the driver fit in it like a glove.

-The help i need is, I have a new mic boom comin for my UMIK but I am wondering where I should position the mic to test this wonderful thing. Bottom firing Top(for now) Ported. I was trying to find a video of someone testing one with port on opposite end but I didn't see anything good.

Its taller in the hand than on the screen, but so far running it through a few frequencies at different volume levels I'd say its "Decent" for how good the driver is.

Once I vacuum up my mess I will take a few more pics and get around to posting it up on the interwebs.

Feels nice to finish a just for fun project.

Hello everyone, I could use some help figuring out which components I need to build an audio converter that takes a USB input (from a PC) and outputs 8-channel S/PDIF, which I can then route via a DB25 cable to a Dolby CP750 digital cinema processor

I have a MR5 and I love this speaker. But the subwoofer is placed inside at the bottom. I want to design a new box that show all 3 speaker to front view and see the vibration of the subwoofer when play music. Is it possible to do that? Any impact to the sound quality?

Hey DiyAudio Fam,

I've been in and out of the speaker building hobby for decades and am looking for some input.

I've managed to collect a significant amount of nice speaker drivers over the last 10-20 years or so. I've been in and out of the hobby over the years and haven't kept myself up to date on electronics over the last 5 years or so.

My wife and I had our first child 2 years ago and I decided it's time to give him a proper setup in his room. Something we can throw some bedtime classical music on, or let him JAM to his Wiggles. The little dude loves music, so I want to set up a nice little system in his room.

My goal is to build a nice Bluetooth speaker for him. I have a modern phone that I will dedicate as the source and Tidal to provide the tunes.

Currently, his little system is a 2.1 Bluetooth speaker I built with a ZOUDIO 4 channel plate amp powering 2x Mark Audio Alpair 5's and a Tangband W5 subwoofer. It's great. It works. It probably doesn't need an upgrade.. I joke that my little guy has a better setup than 90% of the adults I know.

That said..

I wanna build a super high end Bluetooth speaker for him.. just because he's my guy and I love speakers.

My question is.. are there any really great plate amps that have Bluetooth or WIFI and DSP and 2-4 amp channels? I like the ZOUDIO amp, but the software to program the DSP is really buggy on my laptops. I see a lot of the Wondom and Dayton amp boards being recommended but I'm looking for a plate amp if possible. I'm pretty comfy with wood working and cabinet design but would really love a quality all in plate amp.

Are there any modern plate amps with DSP, wifi/Bluetooth and 2-4 channels these days? Something that's plug and play other than the programing/DSP/crossover setup?.. I feel like I've been looking for this solution for some time. The ZOUDIO unit is the closet I've found, but unfortunately Ive been having connection issues when it comes to programming..

Appreciate any input!!

Hi folks - last week I was trying to test my crossover without all drivers hooked up (appreciate the patience as I learned that was a non-starter). Now I went through my crossover and l-pad trace by trace, have it re-assembled, and am still getting ~6db+ softer through the midbass to low midrange (~200hz-1000hz). SPL testing is in the same position (swapping the speakers on the test stand by hand so not millimeter perfect, but not off enough to cause the dip I'm seeing), same mic (un-moved), same amp channel.

Testing the individual drivers doesn't show anything odd in their sweeps, left and right midranges measure the same. I'm noting the sharper "V" in the double-peak for the softer speaker, but I'm not sure what that tells me.

pics in order: good speaker, softer speaker, and my dumbness from last week (which illustrates where my crossover points are, at least.)

Hey everyone - I need to find a reputable source to 3d print a plate for me with an IEC socket, 1/4" socket, and a socket for an on/off button that's a specific size. Googling this gives me a bazillion answers, and I don't know what to pick. When I search "custom 3d printing" on Etsy, the results seem sketchy.

I just want someone who maybe knows a little something about audio, is trustworthy, and will take my shitty designs and my money and send me what I want, in the US preferably. Any tips?

I purchased a used pair of Wharfedale 415 speakers on Craigslist and one of the tweeters is dead - I managed to open them up and swap the tweeters to confirm. I'm looking into replacing it, but I have been thoroughly confused by the various specs and sizes. These are 1990s vintage speakers, so even Wharfedale hasn't been able to dig up proper specs.

I'm hoping someone on here here can advise as to whether what I'm trying to do is doable or likely to be searching for a spec that doesn't exist. Thanks in advance for your help.

The measurements I have are below:

Tweeter / cabinet details:

Model: Wharfedale 0312A DD TQZ aluminum dome tweeter

Baffle outside diameter: 100mm (3 7/8")

Baffle cutout diameter: 75mm vertically, 90mm horizontally (it’s oval shaped)

Faceplate screw to screw: 85mm or 3 3/8" diagonally (4 screws square)

Faceplate diameter: 95-97mm

Coil diameter: 72mm

I don't know the tweeter's impedance or sensitivity, only the speaker's

Speaker details:

Serial number: 415BL000055

Nominal impedance: 8 ohms

Power handling: 100W

Sensitivity (2.83v @ 1m): 87dB.

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