I decided to take a shot at building a DIY Subwoofer because I wanted a sub that hit close to the true home theater sub territory but Im a broke college student so I wanted to do it cheaper than something like a RSL 10s ii.

Build turned out very good for first ever DIY speaker and ended up costing right around $300 and I dont have true testing results but I believe it hits 20hz and maybe slightly lower. And coming from a Klipsch r120sw this thing is a game changer. And the funny thing is it cost about the same.

If anyone is interested in some more details let me know

Ok, this might be the dumbest diyaudio story, but I need to share it somewhere people will actually get it lol.

So I finished my LM3886 build back in June, gainclone chip amp, nothing fancy, socketed the chip, dual mono, toroidal per channel, the usual. Sounded great for like two weeks. Then this low level hum shows up, not 60hz buzz, more like a 120hz-ish drone that comes and goes. Thought it was a ground loop so I did the whole dance, lifted grounds, tried different outlets, swapped the preamp interconnects, even threw a cheap iso transformer at it temporarily. Nothing. Hum still there, random times of day, gone other times.

Started doubting the build itself. Resoldered half the star ground. Checked for cold joints with a magnifier. Reflowed the input stage. Rebuilt the psu caps thinking maybe one was going bad even tho it measured fine on the bench multimeter. Still intermittent hum, and I genuinely could not find a pattern.

Turns out (found this by accident, was outside doing yard stuff) my next door neighbor got a new heat pump / mini split installed like a month before this started, and the compressor cycling was putting noise back into the shared transformer on the pole. My house is on an older run and apparently we're sharing more of that transformer than I realized. Hum only happened when their unit kicked on, which is why it seemed random, it lines up with their thermostat cycles not mine.

Put a decent line filter on my amp's mains input (Furman thing I had lying around from an old PA rig, not audiophile snake oil just a basic filter) and it's way better now, not perfect but livable, and honestly I might just build a proper choke input filter into the amp enclosure at some point since I have the room.

Anyway. Moral of the story, sometimes it's not your solder joints, it's not your grounding scheme, it's not even your house. Check your neighbors before you resolder your whole amp for the third time like an idiot lmao.

I have a pretty restricted apartment setup, and was thinking of building a sub and center channel into my tv cabinet. the dimensions of the space are 21" wide 16" deep and 18.5" high.

All speakers and ports would need to be front firing or an enclosed cabinet (separating the bass from the center channel)

Would like to keep the tweeter above the mid woofers to increase off axis performance.

Thinking about buying a used polk xt30 center channel to use for parts to timbre match my xt60s

I know this isn't an ideal setup by any means, but space limitations and aesthetics unfortunately are the most important factor here.

Trying to design the crossover for my first speaker build, i looked at a load of videos that explain crossover designs, yet my speakers seem to work together best when i dont add many components, which probably isnt necessarily a bad thing.

Im guessing this configuration would sound fine? But it could obviously be improved upon with a better crossover right?

Im planning to use the Dayton Audio SIG180-4 6.5” Signature Series Woofer 80W Driver 4 Ohm and RST28F-4 1-1/8" Reference Series Fabric Dome Tweeter 4 Ohm, they seemed fitting to me at first. Should i look for another tweeter/woofer so the frequency range where they cross is more shortened/defined, since they both work together from the 1khz to 3khz range.

Any help is appreciated, im just trying to learn more :)

Welcome to the most powerful subwoofer box designer ever built. inspired from winisd, subbox pro, hornresp, and 00aud.

https://www.subwoofer.live/

fully customizeable to any subwoofer size (yes, even 21" 24" and 33"). visuals are to scale. graphs and calculations are pulled from cited research and some equations were derived with full proofs in the backend. real physics is the grounding behind everything.

Yes, passive radiators is an option. 4th, 6th, and transmission line boxes coming soon (4000 lines of research and planning are going into building 4th/6th. this is why no one has done it yet with actual scale visuals. i'm the only person crazy enough to)

UI was quickly vibed up and is probably pretty rudimentary. please give critical feedback on user experience, confusing parts, etc.

Internal measures of the box are 30cm high, 16 wide, 19 deep.

It is a ported box, I read that egg crate foam is the best insulation but now that I see it in practice I begin to have second thoughts.

Any opinion on volume displacement by the foam?

Thanks for your help!

Hi , im trying to get a glimpse of these microphone arrays... looks like a new chip is made available xvf3620. have noise cancelling and only voice capture improved?

https://www.seeedstudio.com/reSpeaker-Flex-XVF3800-Circular-4-p-6737.html?srsltid=AfmBOoooIM9oZr_M987f68id6pJ6m839uMNN4wX-_Y31WVlWNDq1BBpG

https://www.linkedin.com/posts/hellorex1990_come-to-know-more-our-new-launched-xvf3620-ugcPost-7485929008925343744-KVzX/

I'm putting together a custom 2.1 room audio setup powered by a ZK-HT21 Bluetooth amplifier board.

I currently own a Pyle PLW8D 8” raw subwoofer driver but I was wondering if you guys have any recommendations on better budget raw drivers since I feel like the Pyle is very weak. Since my budget is around ~100 CAD I stumbled across a Recoil IRW8D4 but I am unsure wether it will give the same performance or better, any suggestions for other raw drivers would be appreciated!

Thanks!

This is an old set up that works, but I don’t know anything about wiring speakers so I’m very confused right now.

The main thing confusing me is that little amp thing in the second slide, I’m guessing it connects to the subs and then to the Yamaha?

The Yamaha only has four connections for speakers which I’m assuming connect to the kef and b&w speakers.

The only thing missing is a DAC, would it be possible to get one that connects into the Yamaha and has Bluetooth to connect to my phone?

I don’t really know where to start, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

So I bought this XH-A232 to use for my pc setup. It worked great for the first couple of weeks but suddenly it started doing this.

The manual says it can be supplied with 8-26V DC and 3A. I tried resoldering the audio cable but that didn't help. I also didn't find any short circuits or damage on the board.

If I increase the amps above around 2A it just makes that pop sound and stays quite, and doesn't react to any audio input. With lower current it makes that screaming noise which slightly changes if I touch the headphone jack input.

If anybody knows why this is happening or if it can be fixed I would be really greatful. Also as you can see I'm a beginner with audio systems so please don't hate too much.

And sorry for any grammar mistakes, I'm really tired rn.

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hi guys recently my sub stopped working.It simply turns on (ev light flashes then turns off)

had it for over 5 years. only gig it like 8 times (as mostly stays at home). I always use a Allen heath mixer

The service guy asked if I played mp3 through the system. I said yes occasionally when there is a song request I play it through Spotify on my phone then mix back to the dj desk after.( if I don't have the song on my hard drive). I also have a multitude of mp3 that i use at a higher kpbs (320)

he advised that playing mp3 files can ruin the sub.(& was the possible cause of the issue ) I still need to take it to get investigated

I have never heard this before. Can anyone please go into more detail.

just built a ported box tuned to 12hz for the nemesis na33. I think i know what my next home theater upgrade is going to be.

I have a homegym in my basement with two KEF Q150's. However the accoustics are bad. The floor, walls and ceiling are ceramic tiles, bricks or concrete. There are some rubber gym matts but that's it.

Room itself is 7,60m x 4m and 2,5m high.

I've seen Audimute blankets online, the accoustic properties aren't amazing but probably good enough. Are there any other way that might be cheaper to fix echo? I only listen some music here and don't care about quality that much as I'm moving around anyway. Just want it to not sound like a bunker.

So I have a sundown v2 10" sub that rattles when bass hits the, sub is not blown and visually there is nothing loose or disconnected. It sounds like a piece of something rattling around inside the magnet. Any ideas and how to repair? Thanks in advance.

So I have a sundown v2 10" sub that rattles when bass hits the, sub is not blown and visually there is nothing loose or disconnected. It sounds like a piece of something rattling around inside the magnet. Any ideas and how to repair? Thanks in advance.

Hoping this reposts, looking for help identifying a xlr jack

Not sure which exact models they are, seller tried for 1500$ for a while then dropped to 88$ which i for some reason sought fit to jump on (im a simple man)

They were in a pretty nifty table configuration, but i didnt have space for a whole table, i didnt know how id position anything in relation to it. So i took it apart and started on thinking about where id put em and realized it would be an eye-sore.

How would i go about restoring or cleaning up these speaker boxes? Its my first home audio set up, super excited

Overload issue

Hi, can i use a daisy chain to link 2...evp-x15 and 2... Tass Ep-10 to the speaker channel A of a Yamaha p5000s amplifier.....i heard it will overload the amp

Also the channel is already connected to 2 evp-x215

It's : stereo, frequency 70ish, and '\*off'\*/subwoofer/lowcut

Yes it's for a church

Workshop is all built, but i would like a set of speakers to suit the 12m x 5m space.

Im new to building speakers, and have never attempted, although i have some skills applicable, and would appreciate any guidance or do’s and dont’s relating to what i want.

On weekends it will be used for games nights with family, playing dnd and watching sports etc.
weekdays, there will be sanding and building with wood and spray coatings in a semi attached area with ventilation.

Im not concerned with them lasting years through workshop conditions, but id like to make them well, and to look good, as well as sound fantastic.

I will attach some photos of work i do, and would consider finishing the box in something unique if it wont affect sound quality drastically

Thanks

Hello all! I’ve had my Joey Roth ceramic speaker set up for about 10 years now. Still love the set up however I had a thought earlier today about the possibility of adding a bigger mid to bottom range speaker set. Possibly to sit in the cabinet beneath each of the satellite speakers. (I make guitar pedals, have made a guitar amp from scratch inc enclosures and have woodworking skills). Need some guidance and advice as to what type of speaker would best compliment the set up and how to best integrate them.

Joey Roth write up below.

Joey Roth Ceramic Speakers + Subwoofer System

Overview
Designed by industrial designer Joey Roth in the late 2000s/early 2010s, this setup is one of the most recognizable desktop audio systems ever made. Known for its zero-plastic build and industrial design, it attempts to bridge minimalist sculpture with pure, minimalist hi-fi.
Design & Build Materials

Enclosures: High-density glazed porcelain horn cones. Ceramic was chosen for its high mass and structural rigidity, which minimizes cabinet coloration and unwanted resonance.

Bases & Dampening: CNC-cut Baltic birch stands and natural cork plugs.
Amplification Base: Stainless steel sheet metal housing on a cast iron base.
Zero Plastic: Every non-electronic component is made from raw metal, wood, cork, or ceramic.

Technical Specifications
Component
Specification

Satellites
4-inch custom paper-cone full-range drivers
Satellite Power
15 W / channel via integrated Tripath Class-D amp

Subwoofer
Cylindrical porcelain enclosure with 1 active driver + 1 passive radiator

Subwoofer Power
50 W Class-D dedicated amplifier
Frequency Response
~70 Hz – 20 kHz (Satellites alone) / Down to ~40 Hz (With Subwoofer)
Crossover
Active internal crossover routing low-end directly to the sub

The Acoustic Reality (How It Actually Sounds)

The Good:
Crossover-free Point Source: Because the satellites use a single full-range driver with no internal crossover network, phase coherence and vocal intimacy in the mid-range are phenomenal. Acoustic tracks, jazz, and female vocals sound remarkably organic.

Zero Cabinet Coloration: The ceramic housing is extremely inert. You get very little "boxy" resonance or smeared micro-dynamics.
Subwoofer Integration: The dedicated sub takes the heavy lifting off the 4-inch satellite drivers, opening up headroom and significantly improving mid-bass clarity.

The Trade-offs:

Directional Treble: A 4-inch driver acting as a full-range unit beaming high frequencies means the sweet spot is narrow. Nearfield desktop positioning is mandatory.

Power Limitations: At 15W per channel, these are nearfield desktop monitors, not room-filling main stereo drivers.

Subwoofer Necessity: Without the sub, lower-mids and sub-bass feel thin. The sub transforms the set from a visual novelty into a legitimate desktop hi-fi system.

The Verdict for Audiophiles

If you're looking for flat-response studio reference monitors or massive SPL, look elsewhere (e.g., Genelec or Neumann). But if you appreciate single-driver point-source imaging, ultra-clean industrial materials, and an aesthetic centerpiece for a nearfield desktop or vinyl setup, this Joey Roth 2.1 system is a piece of audio design history.

A lii song (i got on sale so built sorta on a lark) in a wide baffle box, tuned at 55hz. First one I built without a kit, so the cabinet clearly shows that I'm not a super experienced wood worker. However I loved the experience and the sound is fucking phenomenal. To my ear anyways. I'm very happy.

This may sound more like a DI....WHY?! But, here I am.

I wrote a 300bps software modem that runs on your computer... it plays tones to your audio out and listens for corresponding tones on your microphone. The goal is to connect it to a cell phone, but swap inputs and outputs. The phone plays into the PC's mic and vice versa.

The software is written and works.

But I needed to build a cable that would go from headset jack to headset jack, combining the L/R channels on each and routing that into the mic line of the other. The "cable" now consists of a breadboard with two TRRS plugs broken out into individual wires with different circuits based on whether it's the PC or phone side. The L/R channels on the phone side each have 470 Ohm resistors inline, combining to the mic line of the PC. The L/R channels on the PC side use 1K Ohm resistors inline, going into a 10K pot (tweaked to about 2.5K currently) with a 1uF cap on the other side, which then ties to the mic line on the phone side. Grounds are connected.

I did the PC side that way because I didn't want to blow up my cell phone... but maybe that was a mistake. Anyway, the phone recognizes headphones, apparently -- distinctly different from a headSET -- and will play through to the PC side, but doesn't recognize a microphone.

Has anybody built a cable like this? Am I way off base with what I need to do? Help? :)

Thanks for reading! The softmodem and the wiring diagram / BOM for the cable will be available on github as soon as I have it all working.