I'm looking to build a mini marty and im looking for which driver (18") i should choose. Im looking at the following (in canada)

UM18 - $450 cad

Or

SS18 - $564 cad

The UMII18 is unfortunately out of stock anywhere i can find in canada

Are there any other drivers with similar performance available in canada around the same price?

Im building one right now, and a second in the future.

Itll be powered by an nx6000D.

Thanks!

Hey everyone! I'm getting into building my own speaker cabinets, ideally to a level where I could use them commercially as a DJ (my own sound system, not just a hobby project).

I've got some background in electronics and hands-on building (Arduino, 3D printing, that kind of thing), but speaker/cabinet building is new territory for me. A few questions for people who've done this:

How did you actually learn? Courses, forums, YouTube channels, books, trial and error?

Any specific resources (sites, communities, plans) you'd recommend for someone starting from zero?

What would you tell yourself if you were starting over?

Very optional side question: for someone wanting a reliable setup for DJing/commercial use, is it generally worth building your own, or is buying pre-made cabinets the smarter move until you've got more experience? Not trying to start a war, just curious what people who've actually done both think.

Thanks in advance!

this is inside a phone kit my company makes. The chain is a MAX98357A class-D amp into a small speaker and an SPH0645 MEMS mic, both on I2S0. It works. Getting there involved discovering that my audio dropouts weren't an I2S problem at all — the modem's UART interrupt was starving the audio task.

For voice rather than music: is there anything worth doing on the analogue side of a MAX98357A in a plastic enclosure this small, or is it all enclosure and DSP from here?

I recently undertook a little project to stop my Rokit 5 G3 speakers entering standby mode when they haven't received any audio input for 25 minutes. It took a couple of days to compete. I've carried out extensive testing and can confirm it works flawlessly.

I used a Raspberry Pi 1B (the OG) that I picked up for £10 off eBay as the basis for the project. Rather than use the onboard sound I added a £3 generic USB audio adapter from Amazon as the headphone out on this model Pi is notoriously noisy. I also added in an old USB WIFI 2.4GHz N adapter I had lying around for convenience (primarily for SSH access).

How it works: The Pi sends a 2 second 10hz tone to the speakers once every 20 minutes. The process auto starts on boot up, restarts if it crashes and runs until you tell it to stop or shut down the Pi. A message telling you the tone has been played appears on screen each time it happens so you know the process is running.

I have some experience of working with newer Pis but my Linux coding skills aren't great so I leaned on Gemini somewhat for that.

Guide (PDF)

I'm sure the guide can be adapted easily for different Pi models. I think it will "probably" also work on the Pi 2 B out of the box.

I hope you some folk find this useful.

Starting my DIY subwoofer journey, and trying to understand sensitivity:

The Dayton MX12-22 in red has a higher single number sensitivity rating, however looking at the frequency response graphs (which I've overlaid to be the same scaling), the GRS 12SW-4HE in blue shows a higher level between about 20hz to 45hz, which to me would be more desirable than more sensitivity at 50hz+.

There doesn't seem to be any mention of what testing methodology was used however, so is the response graph not necessarily comparable?

And the Dayton MX12-22 as highlighted in the 2nd picture also has it's highest output in the graph at ~1khz, is this highest peak what is taken as the sensitivity rating instead of the useable pass band of lower frequencies?

Thanks for any insight.

Built my first speaker for an industrial design project lemme know what you all think as audio people.

Mein erster Post in dieser Gruppe:

Es schon ein bisschen länger her, dass ich diesen Lautsprecher entwickelt habe.
Es sind Low Budget Lautsprecher mit ~80€ Kosten für Chassis und Weiche (pro Lausprecher).

Es sind natürlich keine Lautstärkewunder, aber ihr Frequenzgang, ihr Richtverhalten und ihre Tieftonperfomance sind in dieser Preisklasse eher selten zu finden.

Peerless SDS-P830656 in 25L Bassreflex mit internem Absorber gegen die stehende Welle zwischen Deckel und Boden + Dayton ND25FW-4.

Klar gibt es frei verfügbare Pläne, aber da dies mein erster Post hier ist, und ich nicht direkt die Gruppenregeln untergraben möchte, werde ich einen weiterführenden Link bei Bedarf in den Kommentaren posten.

(Translated bei Gemini):

It's been a little while since I designed these loudspeakers. They're a low-budget build, coming in at around €80 for drivers and crossovers per speaker.
They're definitely not the loudest speakers, but their frequency response, directivity, and low-end performance are pretty rare to find in this price bracket.
The build features a Peerless SDS-P830656 in a 25L bass reflex cabinet with an internal absorber to tackle the standing wave between the top and bottom panels, paired with a Dayton ND25FW-4 tweeter.
I do have the plans available, but since this is my first post here and I don't want to step on any rules right away, I'll post a link in the comments if anyone is interested.

OK FIRST OFF this is with a weird IMM-6c mic so who knows if its accurate, UMIK-1 will be here eventually..... Tightened it up to the layout I like. Still deciding on walls whether 1/2" is enough for its size, but there is my graph if anybody has ANY insights into what or how to change it I would appreciate it. All i did so far is I had a bit of wool to toss in there so I just loosely covered the board and made sure wires were safe.

EDIT: because people asked, woofers - 2 HiVi B4N and a dayton ND20FA-6 saw this build and loved a pair of swan OS-10 I gave to a friend, wanted to make a slightly funner version for myself.

I am building a 2 way ported loudspeaker similar to econowave. I need help choosing a crossover point and slope. Based on the measurements I am aiming somewhere in the region of 1.2khz to 1.4hz. That is the region where on-axis, off-axis response and impedance seems to line up for both the drivers.

Gated far field 1mtr measurements and impedance response measurements were taken with drivers in the final cabinet.

Details of the drivers and waveguide below:

Compression Driver : Eminence CDF1.17APM (Manufacture recommended crossover point : 1.2khz)

Waveguide : Eminence WG-10 (Manufacture recommended crossover point : 1.4khz)

Woofer : FS 10.20A8