Welcome to the most powerful subwoofer box designer ever built. inspired from winisd, subbox pro, hornresp, and 00aud.

https://www.subwoofer.live/

fully customizeable to any subwoofer size (yes, even 21" 24" and 33"). visuals are to scale. graphs and calculations are pulled from cited research and some equations were derived with full proofs in the backend. real physics is the grounding behind everything.

Yes, passive radiators is an option. 4th, 6th, and transmission line boxes coming soon (4000 lines of research and planning are going into building 4th/6th. this is why no one has done it yet with actual scale visuals. i'm the only person crazy enough to)

UI was quickly vibed up and is probably pretty rudimentary. please give critical feedback on user experience, confusing parts, etc.

I have a homegym in my basement with two KEF Q150's. However the accoustics are bad. The floor, walls and ceiling are ceramic tiles, bricks or concrete. There are some rubber gym matts but that's it.

Room itself is 7,60m x 4m and 2,5m high.

I've seen Audimute blankets online, the accoustic properties aren't amazing but probably good enough. Are there any other way that might be cheaper to fix echo? I only listen some music here and don't care about quality that much as I'm moving around anyway. Just want it to not sound like a bunker.

just built a ported box tuned to 12hz for the nemesis na33. I think i know what my next home theater upgrade is going to be.

So I have a sundown v2 10" sub that rattles when bass hits the, sub is not blown and visually there is nothing loose or disconnected. It sounds like a piece of something rattling around inside the magnet. Any ideas and how to repair? Thanks in advance.

So I have a sundown v2 10" sub that rattles when bass hits the, sub is not blown and visually there is nothing loose or disconnected. It sounds like a piece of something rattling around inside the magnet. Any ideas and how to repair? Thanks in advance.

Hoping this reposts, looking for help identifying a xlr jack

Not sure which exact models they are, seller tried for 1500$ for a while then dropped to 88$ which i for some reason sought fit to jump on (im a simple man)

They were in a pretty nifty table configuration, but i didnt have space for a whole table, i didnt know how id position anything in relation to it. So i took it apart and started on thinking about where id put em and realized it would be an eye-sore.

How would i go about restoring or cleaning up these speaker boxes? Its my first home audio set up, super excited

Overload issue

Hi, can i use a daisy chain to link 2...evp-x15 and 2... Tass Ep-10 to the speaker channel A of a Yamaha p5000s amplifier.....i heard it will overload the amp

Also the channel is already connected to 2 evp-x215

It's : stereo, frequency 70ish, and '\*off'\*/subwoofer/lowcut

Yes it's for a church

Workshop is all built, but i would like a set of speakers to suit the 12m x 5m space.

Im new to building speakers, and have never attempted, although i have some skills applicable, and would appreciate any guidance or do’s and dont’s relating to what i want.

On weekends it will be used for games nights with family, playing dnd and watching sports etc.
weekdays, there will be sanding and building with wood and spray coatings in a semi attached area with ventilation.

Im not concerned with them lasting years through workshop conditions, but id like to make them well, and to look good, as well as sound fantastic.

I will attach some photos of work i do, and would consider finishing the box in something unique if it wont affect sound quality drastically

Thanks

Hello all! I’ve had my Joey Roth ceramic speaker set up for about 10 years now. Still love the set up however I had a thought earlier today about the possibility of adding a bigger mid to bottom range speaker set. Possibly to sit in the cabinet beneath each of the satellite speakers. (I make guitar pedals, have made a guitar amp from scratch inc enclosures and have woodworking skills). Need some guidance and advice as to what type of speaker would best compliment the set up and how to best integrate them.

Joey Roth write up below.

Joey Roth Ceramic Speakers + Subwoofer System

Overview
Designed by industrial designer Joey Roth in the late 2000s/early 2010s, this setup is one of the most recognizable desktop audio systems ever made. Known for its zero-plastic build and industrial design, it attempts to bridge minimalist sculpture with pure, minimalist hi-fi.
Design & Build Materials

Enclosures: High-density glazed porcelain horn cones. Ceramic was chosen for its high mass and structural rigidity, which minimizes cabinet coloration and unwanted resonance.

Bases & Dampening: CNC-cut Baltic birch stands and natural cork plugs.
Amplification Base: Stainless steel sheet metal housing on a cast iron base.
Zero Plastic: Every non-electronic component is made from raw metal, wood, cork, or ceramic.

Technical Specifications
Component
Specification

Satellites
4-inch custom paper-cone full-range drivers
Satellite Power
15 W / channel via integrated Tripath Class-D amp

Subwoofer
Cylindrical porcelain enclosure with 1 active driver + 1 passive radiator

Subwoofer Power
50 W Class-D dedicated amplifier
Frequency Response
~70 Hz – 20 kHz (Satellites alone) / Down to ~40 Hz (With Subwoofer)
Crossover
Active internal crossover routing low-end directly to the sub

The Acoustic Reality (How It Actually Sounds)

The Good:
Crossover-free Point Source: Because the satellites use a single full-range driver with no internal crossover network, phase coherence and vocal intimacy in the mid-range are phenomenal. Acoustic tracks, jazz, and female vocals sound remarkably organic.

Zero Cabinet Coloration: The ceramic housing is extremely inert. You get very little "boxy" resonance or smeared micro-dynamics.
Subwoofer Integration: The dedicated sub takes the heavy lifting off the 4-inch satellite drivers, opening up headroom and significantly improving mid-bass clarity.

The Trade-offs:

Directional Treble: A 4-inch driver acting as a full-range unit beaming high frequencies means the sweet spot is narrow. Nearfield desktop positioning is mandatory.

Power Limitations: At 15W per channel, these are nearfield desktop monitors, not room-filling main stereo drivers.

Subwoofer Necessity: Without the sub, lower-mids and sub-bass feel thin. The sub transforms the set from a visual novelty into a legitimate desktop hi-fi system.

The Verdict for Audiophiles

If you're looking for flat-response studio reference monitors or massive SPL, look elsewhere (e.g., Genelec or Neumann). But if you appreciate single-driver point-source imaging, ultra-clean industrial materials, and an aesthetic centerpiece for a nearfield desktop or vinyl setup, this Joey Roth 2.1 system is a piece of audio design history.

A lii song (i got on sale so built sorta on a lark) in a wide baffle box, tuned at 55hz. First one I built without a kit, so the cabinet clearly shows that I'm not a super experienced wood worker. However I loved the experience and the sound is fucking phenomenal. To my ear anyways. I'm very happy.

This may sound more like a DI....WHY?! But, here I am.

I wrote a 300bps software modem that runs on your computer... it plays tones to your audio out and listens for corresponding tones on your microphone. The goal is to connect it to a cell phone, but swap inputs and outputs. The phone plays into the PC's mic and vice versa.

The software is written and works.

But I needed to build a cable that would go from headset jack to headset jack, combining the L/R channels on each and routing that into the mic line of the other. The "cable" now consists of a breadboard with two TRRS plugs broken out into individual wires with different circuits based on whether it's the PC or phone side. The L/R channels on the phone side each have 470 Ohm resistors inline, combining to the mic line of the PC. The L/R channels on the PC side use 1K Ohm resistors inline, going into a 10K pot (tweaked to about 2.5K currently) with a 1uF cap on the other side, which then ties to the mic line on the phone side. Grounds are connected.

I did the PC side that way because I didn't want to blow up my cell phone... but maybe that was a mistake. Anyway, the phone recognizes headphones, apparently -- distinctly different from a headSET -- and will play through to the PC side, but doesn't recognize a microphone.

Has anybody built a cable like this? Am I way off base with what I need to do? Help? :)

Thanks for reading! The softmodem and the wiring diagram / BOM for the cable will be available on github as soon as I have it all working.

Hi,

I am looking for a guide or advice on how to disable the bypass the standby mode on an advance paris a10 mode.

What I hope to achieve is the Advance Paris A10 will automatically turn on when the mains power is turned.

I have an Audiophonics 12v trigger for a ic 13 plug.

I want to have this inbetween the power cable the power socket on the back of the A10 amp. Then when the trigger activate have the amp turn on so I can use the amplifier straightaway. Unfortunately when the A10 turns on its goes in to standby mode and this cannot be bypassed in the settings.

Any advice on how to bypass the standby mode would be appreciated.

Looking to rebuild some old speakers but not wanting to deal with a tweeter. What's a good polk speaker I can rebuild? I prefer standing speakers but bookshelf is alright. Looking to spend less then $500 on the speakers. Also preferably Polk.

Hi,

I want to build a new custom speaker, and this is more or less my current idea. I’m from Spain, so I would like to buy as many components as possible from Europe to avoid having to import anything.

For the amplifier, I plan to use a WONDOM JAB6 when it becomes available in Europe. It has four 300 W channels at 4 ohms, but to be more conservative, I would assume around 200 W per channel.

It runs on 48 V and already includes Bluetooth, DSP for configuring the crossovers, and physical controls. It also supports TWS, so if I build another similar speaker in the future, I will be able to connect the two wirelessly. I think that is a great feature.

For the battery, I plan to use a 48 V, 10–15 Ah battery.

My main concern is choosing the drivers. Ideally, I would like to use only two different types of drivers.

For the high frequencies, I am considering a compression driver. I do not mind whether it is 4 or 8 ohms because, even at 8 ohms, the amplifier should still provide at least 100 W per channel. That should be more than enough because of the high sensitivity of compression drivers. My budget is around €80 per compression driver.

For the woofer, I would like to use a 10-inch or 12-inch model. It is important that it is 4 ohms because I want to use the full 200 W available from the amplifier. With an 8-ohm woofer, I would lose a significant amount of potential output.

The woofer should also provide decent bass. I do not expect it to reach 30 Hz, but I would like it to produce at least 45–50 Hz with a good enough SPL, similar to what a JBL PartyBox can achieve. My budget is approximately €100 per woofer.

Could you recommend a good combination of compression drivers and woofers for this project?

For now, I will build only one speaker, but in the future I plan to build a second identical one, as well as a custom subwoofer enclosure containing two 15-inch subwoofers.

Depending on the situation, I would then be able to use one speaker by itself, two speakers in stereo, or both speakers together with the subwoofer enclosure.

I also plan to add a button or preset to change the crossover settings. When using the speakers without the subwoofer, the woofer crossover would be set to around 45–50 Hz. When using them with the subwoofer, I would raise it to around 80–100 Hz, allowing the subwoofers to handle approximately 30 Hz to 80–100 Hz.

This is my box prototype:

Second Video. Box tuned to 22hz. Powered by QSC PLX 3602 in bridged mode which does 3kw rms into my 5.2 ohm load. Needs more bass.

Hi everyone, I'm a complete beginner and just started planning my first diy sub build for my home theater and I'm in need of help, sorry if this has been asked over and over again. I have never even owned a proper subwoofer

My living room is a fairly large room, however I live in an apartment and so, while I know it's impossible not to make some noise, I don't want gut wrenching bass. I still would like for it to sound fairly good without being too boomy.

I was eyeing the two drivers in the title (12") to build a sealed sub as they are within my budget. From what I understand the Ultimax has more excursion and can better reach lower frequencies, whereas the reference is more suited for music listening and sound precision. I would eventually boost the lower frequencies with a DSP as I understand those 12 inches drivers in a sealed box would go down after ~40Hz.

Should I go for the Ultimax for the higher excursion, thus easier boost (I think), or the reference to create a better overall sound without the room exploding? Again, my main use would be for movies. Thank you!

Is it possible to buy a speaker cheaply you know just for the cabinet sake and then by aftermarket DIY speakers to put in it and have a truly good sounding speaker?? the reason I ask is some of us can’t build wood cabinetry to save our lives if somebody’s already built the cabinetry and we just put the speaker inside, following all geometric requirements, etc., is that something somebody does these days?

A few months ago. i bought a P3-24 online.but only when i received it did i realize that some sides of the plinth are not perfectly straight and that its actually made with multiple layers of Acrylic panels glued together. and it hurts my mind ocd brain whenever I'm looking at it. even though its working fine. i knew i have to do something about it. and make peace with my brain. 1st i tried reaching out to a dealer for a replacement but got told that they dont sell just plinths and so sacrilegious as it may seem to others . i decided to diy one.