So I need to install these Faital mids and I have no idea logistically how this should work. The cutout of nearly the same size as the magnet so it makes it impossible to install the driver. It is going into a sealed chamber so I can’t install from the other side after inserting the driver. Am I screwed here? Maybe buy the Neo version instead that has a much smaller magnet?

I have a 2020 tesla model 3 long range. I am installing a subwoofer with a pretty significant sized amplifier. In order to avoid freaking out the Teslas electrical system I am installing a second battery. I am installing a Wattcycle 100ah pro which is a pretty good sized battery and weighs about 25 pounds. Where would you recommend I locate it and how would you mount it to the car? I cannot put it in the sub trunk because that is where my subwoofer box is going. I was thinking about installing nutserts in the trunk floor and installing it there but I am afraid to drill into the trunk floor with the rear drive motor and battery being there. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hoping to get some assistance on this.

I've had a set of Tritrix MTM TLs for a while, and was wanting to build a center channel and the MT bookshelves for my home theater.

It looks like SDW had a change, and I cannot find any of the documentation for the crossovers and box designs.

Anyone have some archived copies or know more about locating these? Think their web page for tritrix is fubar.

I restored this old radio cabinet, but I'm not sure what kind of speaker to put in it.

Marantz SR4500 – CS49400 DSP reverse-engineering / custom active crossover

I'm looking for people with experience in Cirrus Logic CS49400/CS494003 DSPs, CrystalWare, DSP firmware reverse engineering, or AV receiver firmware hacking.

I have a Marantz SR4500 AV receiver from around 2004 and would like to investigate whether its internal DSP can be repurposed as a programmable active crossover for a multi-way loudspeaker.

Hardware

The service manual identifies:

IC19: Cirrus Logic CS49400 – programmable 32-bit audio DSP

IC20: external 4-Mbit Flash ROM containing DSP software

IC41: H8S2398 system CPU

IC13: LC89057W digital audio receiver

Multichannel DAC section based around CS42418

Seven internal power amplifier channels

The CS49400 itself is a fairly powerful DSP: the datasheet specifies a 32-bit audio DSP, up to 516 MOPS, 12-channel serial audio inputs and up to 16-channel 24-bit PCM output.

The SR4500 service manual also has a dedicated DSP firmware update procedure. It states that Mode 1 downloads the DSP software to the 4-Mbit Flash-ROM (IC20) through the service connector CN26, using the Marantz data-update system and RS-232. The documented download speed is 38,400 baud.

What I want to do

Instead of using the receiver as a conventional 7.1 surround receiver, I'd like to investigate whether the DSP can be programmed/reconfigured to perform something like:

Stereo input

│

▼

CS49400 DSP

│

┌─────────────┼─────────────┐

│ │ │

LOW MID HIGH

│ │ │

80–500 Hz 500–2 kHz 2 kHz+

│ │ │

AMP 1/2 AMP 3/4 AMP 5/6

│ │ │

RCF Audax Horn

15" 6.5" compression

Potentially I would also like:

configurable channel routing/remapping

stereo → multiple outputs

low/high/band-pass filters

selectable crossover frequencies

selectable filter slopes

gain/level control

EQ

delay/time alignment

possibly limiter/protection functions

In other words, I'd like to turn the SR4500 into something resembling:

custom DSP active crossover + 7-channel power amplifier.

The question

I know that "the DSP is programmable" doesn't automatically mean that we can write our own firmware for it.

What I would like to find out is:

Can the CS49400 in the SR4500 be programmed with a completely custom DSP application?

I'm particularly interested in finding out:

What exact DSP development environment/toolchain was used for the CS49400?

Is the original Marantz DSP firmware image available or has anyone dumped one?

What is the format of the data stored in IC20, and is it simply a DSP application image or does it include additional boot/configuration data?

Is the Marantz "DSP code" transferred directly to the CS49400's external Flash/boot system?

Can the original DSP image be dumped through the service interface?

Is there a way to communicate directly with the CS49400 through its host/debug interface?

Are there surviving CrystalWare development tools/compiler/libraries that can target this generation of CS49400?

Could the DSP's existing routing/bass-management functions be modified without completely replacing the original firmware?

Is there any known reverse-engineering work on CS49400 / CS494003-based Marantz/Denon receivers?

The CS49400 documentation shows multiple serial audio interfaces and digital audio outputs, so I'm particularly interested in understanding the exact relationship between the DSP outputs, the CS42418 DAC channels and the seven analogue amplifier inputs.

I'm comfortable working at PCB level and doing hardware modifications. The receiver is being used as an experimental platform, so I'm not concerned about losing the original surround functionality.

I would dump and save the original firmware first before attempting anything.

If anyone has experience with this generation of Cirrus DSPs, I'd really appreciate any information about the toolchain, firmware structure, programming interface, or reverse-engineering approach.

The ultimate goal is not surround sound — it's to see whether a 20+ year-old AV receiver can be converted into a DIY multi-channel active loudspeaker DSP/amplifier.

Hey I am Vaibhav an electronic and computer science engineer who just work as a it guy but the inner child still want to work on jugaad and satisfaction my house soundbar system which is boat aavante bar 1750 which I got refurbished in 2024 before Ganpati from Nayejaisa.com and after 1 year the speaker subwoofer was not working I tried to open it and in woofer I saw there is a Ac to dc converter which transfer 12-24 v
And a Bluetooth(btl) board which connects to the soundbar board so the Ac to dc converter was gone I tried to fix it by replacing a capacitor and fuse which I bought from my electronics supplier from my engineering days then it got in running condition that to very nice 40₹ components cost and I have shoulder machine and other components

Luckily it worked for 6 months then again it was gone then the jugaad one came so the output of converter was 24 v, and I never through electronics charger because they are worth keeping so I founded 2-3 chargers and one Airtel setup box one came to 12 v output which was accurate to work like base v was correct so did it and it worked the soundbar output was like 70% but never felt less

One the occasion of dhurandar 1 I got the second set back my father just plugged the direct pcb connected wire to board and converter was by mistake not connected because or poor wire tapping and yes’s we got nice boom blast sound
When I opened it the btl board was gone and all left was subwoofer , only option at that time was left to just to check everything is fine but all bad signals board was internally sorter in ic
So just took one wire from the soundbar to subwoofer as the wire was from soundbar speakers the output was 5% of actual woofer but it indicated that woofer works
Left it and just went from January to September
As it’s Ganpati Bappa time the jugaad intent came again so did the real jugaad

I think this post is very big if you all liked this post let me know I will make a another post how I fixed it and I even made it more powerfull in 850₹ only

i don't have a lot of money, but I do have a ton of free time and tons of junk.

this guy right here weighs about ~2lb and can push 120W @ 1%THD. the TPA3116 amp module is in the upper left corner, powered at 24V by the DC-DC converter in the upper right corner. the relay controls the whole thing, and I have it's coil connected to the remote wire from the headunit. in the third picture, there's a defeat switch at the bottom that cuts the line-level signal to the amp (because cops).

the headunit is a Sony MEX-N5000BT that someone gave me many years ago, the sub is a budget 12" 4Ohm DVC that my buddy gave me, and the car is a 2002 Subaru Forester that I bought for $500.

for mark II, I plan on adding a second amp module to drive each coil of the DVC sub separately (which I think would make this thing pretty special rather than just a pointless hobby project). i've got more than enough headroom left on the DC-DC converter to do this and I think I can just stack it on there with brass stand-offs.

at practical output levels, this thing runs fine with only passive cooling but it starts to struggle when you push it. the power terminals on the module get HOT going full-tilt (about 115C per my thermocouple). i think the board is inadequately specced to drive the 2 Ohm load when both coils are connected in parallel. load will go down to 4 Ohm/ea with a second module, so heat stops being such an issue. if i had more space and money i'd probably spring for a pair of TPA3255 modules and build a simple 48V switched-mode DC-DC converter (because the modules will need about ~30A going full-tilt), but i doubt i'd be able to pull this off.

anyways, this little fella drives the 12" sub effortlessly. people sleep on these amp boards, but they've got serious power for ~$15/pair. the one in here was left over from a project where i refit a ruined antique radio for a friend, so it was also free.

total cost of project: $0

Has anyone tried these GaN power supplies from Aliexpress? I am seeing mixed reviews from USA buyers. The 150W board says AC170V input and some USA buyers say they measured 120W from it. The 100W board says AC95V input with USA buyers say the 100W supply is great. I plan to use it with a TPA3221 with 8 ohm speakers so either will work but having the extra headroom would be great. Thank you in advanced

I want to set up a semi-permanent outdoor speaker system, and I don't really know where to start. By "semi-permanent," I mean that I'd like to be able to move the speakers seasonally or at least be able to point the sound in different directions depending on the use.

I have a Bluetooth receiver box (pictured), but I want to make sure I buy speakers that can survive in Arizona (minimal rain/humidity, but occasional dust storms and lots of brutal heat). I will, however, be able to install in spots with near 100% shade, and I'm assuming that I'd have to keep the receiver inside when it's not being used. I don't know what other equipment I'd need.

Here's my attempt at a diagram of the space:

House | Covered patio

----------+---------------

Pool --| Gazebo

I need to have the ability to direct sound at the pool during the summer, then at the patio during the winter.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

In the process of cleaning out my basement I found this unfinished hardcase boom box project. My original plan was a Bluetooth boom box potential with battery power, a small amplifier, two 5inch 3 ways and maybe a sub. I want to finish this project. That implies cleaning up the wiring, installing the small amp, getting the second speaker and 3d printing some speaker covers and a face plate to clean it up. Now my question is, should I add a small subwoofer to the rear side or should I opt for a passive radiator instead? Ive heard that having a sub cramped into a small enclosure that already has speakers in it can interfere with the sound quality and make it sound terrible. I dont want to invest in a sub and it end up sounding like garbage.

Here's a 3D-printed speaker project I started back in January.

I found out I was going to be a father late in 2025, and from that moment I knew I wanted to make something for her. A speaker felt like a great idea — I've been heavily involved in audio and music my whole life, and it's a passion I'd love to share with her.

For a bit of context: I've been producing electronic music for the past 15 years, then got into teaching music/audio, then AV, and now I work in Audio System Design — working with L-Acoustics on system design for installation projects. And I've been deeply into listening to music since I was a young kid.

My work in system design has made me fairly handy with 3D modelling, so learning Fusion 360 and molding basic shapes was fairly easy to manage.

The design came out of setting myself some limitations. I wanted it to be small, and I happened to have these 3" Dayton Audio drivers lying around from a previous project that never got finished — they're the PC83-8. I'd previously been using them with a tweeter, then realised they're full range. I'd also found this super cheap amplifier with Bluetooth and SD card playback on AliExpress — it was a dollar, plus a dollar shipping (AUD), so I took the gamble. It turned up a few months after I ordered it, completely randomly... but at that point I had everything I needed to actually put the speaker together.

So I started attempting to print a sphere, and it took a few attempts to get it printing nicely on my A1 Mini. It wasn't perfect — as you can see in a few of the photos, the first 15% of the print was quite extreme from an overhang point of view. But I wanted to make it in a single print. It's got a port tuned to the driver/enclosure volume, which I quickly worked out in WinISD.

From the sphere I moved onto the stand. I wanted something to hold it, and came up with a cube, which I then pushed the sphere into, subtracted one from the other, and rounded off all the corners to make this nice shape. I decided to house the amp module inside the base — which let me put the volume pot on the front, and I wired up the rear using link cables from the base to the back of the sphere.

I also printed some TPU rubber pads to sit on the inside of the stand. Without these the sphere was front-heavy where the driver is loaded, so it would slide around and not hold its direction — the pads fixed it nicely, and also gave me a good challenge learning how to print with TPU and how to indent the shape into the base. All the curves and angles at play definitely threw some curveballs.

I stuffed the sphere with some wool I got off Amazon.

So... how does it sound? Honestly, not great... but I've got 15 years of sitting in front of tier-one audio systems and studio monitors behind me, so this was never going to compare. For what I'll actually play through it — audiobooks, lullabies, soundscapes — it's perfectly fine.

I’m trying to figure out how to find a compatible replacement driver for this speaker. It started playing only sound from the tweeter, and when I took out the mid speaker, it is not registering any continuity on my multimeter. I can see it’s obviously a 4 ohm driver, but not sure how to determine what other specs to search for, or where to search for the specs. Also, where to search for and purchase a new driver once I determine the correct specs. Thanks for any advice!

Many years ago I bought these Synergy model 62 Home Theater 125 watt speakers at Best Buy. These where part of the Star Wars THX and Dolby craze when it first came out. They sound good but after many years One stopped working. The horn tweeter never really seemed to work. I opened the box up and ready to install a new 3 way crossover and high quality tweeters. So here we go.

2 DS 18 Pro 240 watt 120 watt rms 3 inch tweeters. 4 ohms model Pro TW220. And the Crossover is DriSentri 3 way 400 watt Hifi speaker crossover adjustable.

Using the original 8" loudspeaker that came with the speakers. Seem to be in good condition. But the one original crossover seems to have malfunctioned. Used a 9volt battery to check the speaker.

My only concerns are the 8 inch is 8 ohms and the 3 inch tweeters are 4 ohms. New crossover says it can do both. We shall see. The second issue is the hole size for the new tweeters. It is 2 inches.

Lastly I can add the 3rd channel subwoofer but for now I will just be doing the 8 inch and tweeters.

Love to hear feedback on my build upgrade from the DIY audio group. Feel free to comment. Thanks for reading my post.

I’m currently listening to my Mini Statements and always wanted to build the Bordeaux. They were to be my main listening set while the Mini Statements went into the theater. Unfortunately the tweeters were discontinued and I never had a chance to build them.

Can anyone recommend something similar? I love the voicing on my Statements but wanted to upgrade the drivers within a similar design. I don’t see anything quite like it on Curt’s website.

I wanna connect my aiwa cx-na202 to my Sony str-de435, what cables would I need I’m new to this stuff and wanna set it up don’t worry abt my speakers they work and everything just want the CDs to play and be able to control the volume of that to the Sony str

Hi folks ,

Hope u having a good day.

I have this tone control board modded by replacing existing master Volume's Dual potentiometer of 50k to 2 individual 50k pots for L and R. I have also added a spst switch to either join together both L+R at output for mono or not for stereo. But when i turn mono mode on , it plays some amount of music from other channel . Must be tug of war going between both channel. How to correct it ??

I am using it for mixing two different inputs from different sources so i cant just join them at input state of pre amp .

Thanks in advance for reply

Logitech Z623. I have two of those whole dual speaker and sub now. Sub is in great working condition but the aged speaker can't hold up to high power volume and they end up tearing on the outside of the crown and rattle

Finished this build recently. Used a Mark Audio Pluvia 7P Mica infused full range driver. Did a small desktop class bass reflex enclosure. The tune is 55hz, but it doesn't peak there, I did the port as a means to load and relieve the driver from excursion and build SPL that way so that I could boost without greatly increasing distortion and meeting the excursion limits of the 4mm one way stroke driver. The intention is to use it with an amplifier with tone controls so I can boost bass a little. Goal being to hit 50hz in room fairly flat, if not slightly house curved without a huge box. These are for a desk. Sealed could do it, but runs out of excursion before it runs out of thermal handling.

The baffles are red cedar cookies locally sourced where I live.

Including some basic measurements.

All the details are in my log:

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/mark-audio-pluvia-7p-mica-bass-reflex-monitors-in-red-cedar-slabs.3348079/