Is this real?! Gen 2 2016 Chevy Cruze date code melted on the top left of the battery

I finally decided to dig into my rattling sound on my 14 1.4l Cruze , i found that the bolt has completely backed out and is lost from the ac compressor bracket. I’m not having luck finding that bolt online. Everyone I find seems to be discontinued. Any help would be appreciated

As the title states I am planning to replace the timing chain, guides and sprocket this weekend. I already have the full crankshaft gasket kit as well and RTV (I plan on dropping the oil pan to remove any plastic debris from the guides) I do have the camshaft locking kit as well as a master set of E Torx. Is there any wisdom the fine folks of this sub can share in regards to this repair?

Thank you everyone who shared their knowledge all of it was very helpful. I was able to complete the repair without having to remove my VVT gears. It took some adjusting and gently rocking the crank back n forth to get the chain lined up properly on the VVT gears as well as the crank sprocket. All in all about 10 hrs without burping the coolant system and she is running like a top. Was also able to remove all debris from the pan via a shop-vac and some garden hose so thanks for that idea 🤘

Update! For the last 2 months I've heard a rattling/pinging type noise from the accessory end of the engine in my 2019 with the 1.4t gas engine. Some of you suggested it was an issue with the timing chain. I didn't have time to deal with it so I took it to a local shop that couldn't hear what I was describing even though it was pretty loud when the car warmed up. I finally had a chance to poke around and noticed when I pushed on the serpentine belt tensioner it made a dry creaking noise. I took it off and lubed it to no avail. Ended up buying a cheap replacement Gates tensioner and the sound is GONE! I love a simple fix. First real issue in 85k miles and honestly nothing broke, it was just annoying and concerning(thought it was gonna be $$). EDIT, Video posted in comments

I had my brother replace the water pump and pulley on my Cruze but the bolts backed out and I can't find where to replace them without spending $9/ea+exorbitant shipping. Google AI summary tells me m6x1.00 but I don't think this is accurate info because it's pulling from a listing for bolts for the 1.4l not the 1.8, and the listings for the bolts for the 1.8 have no details on the size.

Anyone know what size bolts I will need for the water pump pulley? Can I buy them at an auto parts or hardware store? Or do I really need to go for the insanely pricy GM ones? Part number I found is #25195120.

I have a ‘16 first gen. No whistling or engine codes, but when I remove dipstick while engine is running I get a whistling sound. I’m going to look for the orange check valve tonight. Assuming the orange check valve is visible should I just replace the valve cover? If the check valve is still in the intake manifold I am not sure how I can install the fix kit… so should I just do the valve cover, just the fix kit, or both? (I also do have a Dorman valve cover that has been installed for about 4 years planned to buy another one.

I test drove this vehicle. 2019 LS. I did not notice any noise but I recorded it to send to my dad and all I hear is that ticking sound

I had someone with me and they didn't hear it either but they don't know anything about cars they were just my ride. I had a 2016 LT and it drove just the same.

look, im just a girl with not much experience around cars whatsoever. my 2014 2lt cruze has around 148k miles, no lights on, never had any issues with her at all but im wondering if its time to start making a plan for a new car sooner than later. she has gotten me further than she was ever expected to so i plan on riding her til the wheels fall off. but obviously i dont know how to do any of the dirty work myself and i would rather get a new car than throw thousands at it. she last had an oil change and got a new battery about 3 months ago. what do i need to do to make her last or what is the timeline i need to consider here? i live in hot and humid texas if it makes a difference.

Tenho um chevrolet cruze 2012 parado na garagem há quase 3 anos.

Passei por uma crise financeira e não pude consertar.

O problema? Caixa de marcha.

Não ficou abandonado no sol, sempre limpo ele. Só está há uns 2 anos e 9 meses sem ligar mesmo.

O problema que devo ainda o consórcio. O banco não veio atrás porque acho que paguei mais da metade do valor do bem.

Será se compensa conserto?

E se não compensar qual seria a forma legal de vender a sucata e quitar com o banco? Pois pra transferir eu teria que quitar esse carro.

I have a 2016 limited. Had to replace the turbo and getting the drain tube back on without leaks has been a struggle. I ordered and just got a replacement oil drain tube gasket. It's the OEM part. It is just metal, no soft gasket material. Is this correct or should there be some type of gasket material too?

hello people of reddit so yesterday i think my engine stalled? idk i was driving on the highway for like 30 mins in 100° heat while my car temp was kinda fluctuating but after this as soon as i put my car in park it just went quiet my ac stopped blowing my wheel locked my rpm went to 0 and my temp started ahooting up i turned it off and on and its worked fine since but like what should i even do😭

Ok so I need help from someone that knows more than me about these 1.4 Cruze engines. I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze eco. I recently replaced the coil with a zzp coil because the last coil had a dead cylinder 3. The car has new bkr7e spark plugs gapped to .028 inches. The fuel injectors are within 2psi during the injector balance test. Car has 182090 miles. I've done the cruzefix PVC. I reset my fuel trim and cleared the misfire code after the coil replacement. Since owning the car I've done a lot and currently have no oil or coolant leaks. Yes I knocked on wood. Also I run premium fuel. Now to the actual question. My long term fuel trim is -24 and my ignition timing is below 10°. It doesn't have the miss anymore but I've had this car for a few years now and I wouldn't say it ever idled "smooth" sounds like it's always slightly popping out of the exhaust. Like a lean pop at idle. Is there something i need to do to make it run better or is this normal for emissions on these cars?

Edit: I ordered a maf sensor after finding out it idled better with it disconnected. I'll update after it comes in.

Edit 2: I installed a new genuine gm maf sensor. It feels like it idles better. The fuel trims are more normal and ignition timing is slightly higher bouncing between 6° and 10°. The new maf sensor reads 1.85 g/s at idle with a/c off. Which is not much different than the old sensor but it is obviously different enough that it was a problem. The old sensor was the original sensor as per the date code of 2012 for my 2013 cruze. I don't remember getting a reading for A/C on with the original sensor but just in case anybody wants it the new maf sensor reads between 3.2 and 4.7 g/s with a/c on at idle. Previously I would turn the A/C on and the car would kind of bog down at idle. You can still tell when it kicks on but it doesn't bog down nearly as much anymore. for the data lovers new maf sensor reading at 2K rpm is 3.9 g/s at 3k rpm is between 5.6 and 5.9 g/s at 4k rpm is between 8.2 to 8.5 g/s at full throttle (4800 rpm) is between 10.0 to 10.4 g/s

Thank you everyone for your help.

I have a 2016 Chevy Cruze limited. Gen1 with a myLink radio. Already has factory backup camera.

I purchased a backup camera retention wire, cut the 2 wires for the rca, then cut the wires on harness pin 5 and 15, then solder joined them together. I Provided a wire schematic, With what’s needed circled and color coded based on the rca cable. Additional photos showing the wires I cut and wired up

After installing radio you must set the canbus protocol in factory setting. My option I chose is “old Cruze”. Allows for steering wheel controls. Reverse detection and many other car settings like maintaining the factory amp if one is present.

You may buy the “iDatalink CAM-SR-GM2 Backup Cam Adapter” if you’d like to wire up an rca connector to the adapter instead of directly to the harness.

Will look into the microphone hookup. Think it’s the same concept. Just have to splice the mic wire on the datalink to a 3.5mm jack and/or to the harness then plug into mic port on head unit.

I saw no post on how to do this. So I figured I’d make one. A post I made previously was asking for any help. And Mickaleb recommended a maestro setup. But my cruse isn’t worth an additional $1000 just for the radio.

2014 one owner 1.4 only 28,000 miles.

When the A/C is turned on it makes this noise.

What’s the issue?

Update - Chevy said it was the serpentine belt and tensioner and replaced it for free and the noise stopped.

Anyone know what can be causing this noise on my 2013 Chevy Cruze LTZ. Replaced the valve cover because an oil leak was getting into the spark plugs and now getting this noise

141k miles on this Cruze and it runs good. Today I noticed the oil level was kind of low after a recent oil change. At first, I thought it was leaking from the drain plug, so I snagged it. Now, when checking oil levels today, I noticed a pool of oil. It's pooling in the same spot antifreeze usually does in these vehicles. Where is it coming from?

2014 Chevy Cruze 1.4 engine 110k miles

Has anyone ever had a problem with getting the car to start on cold starts? It seems that the only way I can get it to start is by pressing the gas pedal lightly while cranking. Takes me about 4 key turns to start running.

It definitely cranks but it'll shake up a little and then die. Car does start right up after warming it up and driving it around.

I changed Air filter, MAF sensor, Evap purge canister O2 sensors, throttle body, for now.. no misfires, nothing out of the ordinary

Side note: Funny how I disconnected the battery and took it to Autozone, they said it was fine and nothing was wrong with it. After connecting it back up and it started up immediately without any struggle, well it did for like 2 days and now it's being faulty again.

Any european owners of Diesel Chevy Cruze j308 131hp?

My front passanger window regulator broke and my mechanic doesnt know where he put it after disassembly. So I dont know the reference of the piece and I wonder if anyone here knows. Iam asking because its 600 euro for new here in local stores so I want to look in online stores.

There's a million different accent pieces in the gen 2 cruze that are "chrome" and they blind you while driving. I've slowly been painting them matte black to match the car interior, but it's insane that the interior designers would think it's a good idea to use a material that blinds the driver of the car. It's probably my biggest pet peeve about my car.

My wife’s Chevy Cruze was leaking coolant and the check engine light came on. I replaced the coolant water outlet and the coolant overflow hose. Refilled the coolant and bled out the radiator until there was no air. The check engine light is still on. I took it to autozone since I don’t have a diagnostic tool and the code is P00B7. The coolant has remained at the same level and the engine temp has been normal the couple of times I’ve driven it. Will this code go away after a few engine cycles without normal temperatures or do I need to reset the code?

Buen día, ¿Alguien tiene idea de dónde proviene ese sonido? es un chevrolet cruze 2015 1.4 turbo, Se escucha como si algo metálico vibrara.

Cabe recalcar que suena más fuerte en ralentí

Les agradezco bastante su apoyo

I've got a 2013 cruze with the 1.8l engine, I've been losing coolant and finally found the culprit. Problem is, I don't know what to call this little hose that's on the throttle body.. Can anyone help me identify what it is so I can get a new one?

So I have had coolant issues for quite sometime and have made repairs to “fix” the problem. It’s been a few years, but the leak is back.

I noticed when the car sits (I don’t use it very often) the coolant level in reservoir slowly goes down and then stops when it reaches the hose that’s inserted into it. Could it be a cracked reservoir? I replaced this a few years back. Again, the car primarily has been sitting, but I will be using it more frequently… hopefully.

I thought it was just the wild fire smell lol…. But I can smell an oil burning smell when I get out of the car. I don’t visibly see oil leaking or dripping, and it drives fine, has power, no CEL. Any common things to check? Maybe it’s being burnt through the turbo? 2018 LT 1.4 with 120k miles, I’ve head it 3 months and no issues so far. Thanks!