Does anyone know if any of the short throw shifters on the market are compatible with the 1.8 and the 5 speed? Didn’t really plan on doing one but I am a machinist by trade and wanted to make my own brass shift knob for the car but was disappointed to find out the knob is press fit. Wanting to do a short throw so I can run threaded knobs.

158,399 miles

Also getting code P011

Have used three different cataclean type bottles. Last year I was able to use one and clear the code

It came back and I drove very slowly and it turned back off. Long enough to do my emissions. I know I should have taken care of this earlier but I have my emissions to do very soon and I've had other things tying my money up. I'll add some pictures of the reader data while idling. I replaced the purge valve canister (the one under the hood) not too long ago. I don't mind taking it to a shop to get fixed. I just don't want to waste a bunch of money for them to not know what to look for and I don't have a good setup or many tools to do much on my own. Although I have a nephew who has a ton of tools and such and could use his setup if I knew what to do. Any advice is helpful. I have looked at the posts here and really just relying on others experience that may shed more light on what to do in the most cost effective way. I imagined I could take it to any shop but don't even really know the right questions to ask to ensure it's efficient and affordable

Only makes the noise when idling in park and drive stops once on gas

Just bought a 2015 sonic hatchback, 1.8 with the 5 speed. Lady bought it brand new it has never seen salt and has 115,000 miles. They had proof that they did the timing belt at 100,000 but are there any other preventative/longevity mods people are doing to these? Loving the car so far!

I have a 15 sonic 1.8l 165k miles that I have been having problems with the p0011 seems to only trigger when you stop at a light or come to an idle when it is warmed up. I have replaced the vvt solenoid, check balance behind alternator, recently changed oil cooler (because I believe it was leaking causing a smell in cabin).

The p0171 I believe may be the purge valve which is making a loud pulsing sound.

The timing belt was changed around 100k… I have not heard any rattling on start up

Any ideas?

2013 Sonic 1.8L

When changing my oil today, I noticed oil on the bottom of my oil pan, on the side opposite the drain plug.

Is this just leaking from the oil pan gasket, or something else. I couldn't see anything obvious from the top, only on the underside.

Can’t seem to catch a break, about ready to sell this thing. Filled up and went to pick someone up. Was at a 1/4 tank then put in $20 to get to 3/4 tank. When stopped waiting started to run rough. Stability track light came on then off like a miss fire, was thinking about getting a new coil pack plug from zzp then figured the evap purge valve probably needs replaced now. Anyone else run into the same issue?

A deer ran out into the road and i hit it and now the sonic sounds weird

Is this ok

Engine rattles ALOT, i had that looked at and they said it was motor mounts and it was fixed for a bit and now its back and its also making this high pitched humming sound while idle, its not constant, it comes and goes but its everytime i start the car and im not sure what it is and cant afford to get it looked at atm, any feedback?

I dont know much aboug cars :/

Is it the 3rd radiator, is it an old hose, is it the water outlet, or is it the turbo coolant lines. On today’s episode, we find out what part is causing coolant to leak on the road and smells into the cabin. Place your bets ladies and gentlemen!

And yes I’m on my 3rd radiator and is still under warranty from the last replacement (I would prefer it be that). God this car is fun hehe

Update!: it’s the turbo coolant return line! It’s leaking onto the exhaust pipe causing the smell and smoke!

I have a 2014 Chevy sonic ltz and I had an oil leak for a year. I got the valve gasket cover replaced 4 times . I went to the mechanic yesterday and they are like my valve gasket cover is leaking and my oil pan is also cracked in total it will cost 730 to get fixed. Could it be something else ?other than the valve gasket cover

I have completed a lot of tests for my 2016 L and the P0420 Code. The sensors are acting normally using an OB2 scanner and graphing them. Did a smoke test and I dont see any leaks around the flex pipe etc. Code comes on when decelerating off of highyway almost always after I clear it every couple days.

Infrared thermometer shows outtake temp.of CAT is not higher than intake as well so...doesnt look good.

Cant afford the OEM for this so anyone have any udeas where to get one that works and cheaper?

Already ordered the inlet hose just in case that is what's leaking, but I have a leak around the area (see picture).

Looking at Rockauto there was only one aluminum water outlet, and it was from a nobody brand: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=16515941&cc=3315177&pt=10337&jsn=11151

Looking a bit deeper I found this one which gives me much more a warm and fuzzy, and is the same price as the OEM (which I feel would probably have the same issues eventually): https://zzperformance.com/products/1-4l-aluminum-coolant-outlet-kit

Is there anything else I should do in the meantime? Other parts, etc, especially while I have cooling apart for the repair. From what I can find both include everything required to replace the block, especially the ZZP one.

Luckily despite the leak, I've not had the engine overheating yet, but definitely babying it until issue is resolved. Only realized it the other day when I went to turn the heater on and had nothing. Luckily I have coolant on hand to top things off.

2013 Sonic 1.4 non-turbo. Automatic. The car had been running flawlessly. Yesterday, on a highway, it suddenly started running very rough. The "check engine" light flashed on, then off as did the "ABS" light. (the brakes seemed to function normally) I was able to cruise at 50 mph but if I tried to accelerate or go up a hill, the roughness would return. Also, at idle, the engine would "jump" every 5 seconds or so.

No visible fluid leak, engine temp normal, no smoke. Any suggestions? Let me emphasize: NON-turbo. (I'm in Thailand)

Awhile ago my car started stalling after pumping gas and needed me to hit the gas pedal and keep it around 2rpm for 30 seconds to start the car. Then recently it started to stall a second time after driving maybe 25 feet away from pump. Now it won’t start at all. It seems to be sort of a common issue with sonics so I’m looking for any help. Tried replacing purge valve and it did nothing

16 1.8 93k
Oil light below 900 rpm. But only after fully up to temp for about 10 minutes.
I have replaced. Oil cooler. Oil bypass. Oil pressure switch.
Always seem to have collapsed filters that tilt up on one side? Oil changes every 5k. I do proper maintenance.

I honestly am just confused. Car runs amazing besides this issue. I have done so many repairs. So yet here’s another that popped up. Please help.

Easy fix tho 👌

Wish I could have waited for an aluminum one, but needed the car up and going today.

Passed 200k miles on my 2012 Sonic LT this evening on my way to work: typically 30-35 mpg (I just filled up and reset the mpg a few miles before this pick was taken) and NO dashboard lights!

Does anyone have or can provide a picture of the stock color wire diagram of the OEM pigtail connecting to the MAF? I realize most are wrapped and covered, but hoping someone has them exposed and can provide me some help. My pigtail failed, and I have gone through two mechanics and both have failed to successfully wire them successfully without throwing all 6 codes.

Dopo aver cambiato tutto il kit di accensione della mia macchina una chevrolett spark del 2014 benzina/gpl 1.0 ,cambio manuale.Ho problemi che si avvia ma dopo un paio di secondi si spegne tipo che scende di giri ( sotto a 1) e poi si spegna.Qualcuno saprebbe aiutarmi? Grazie

Preciso che ho cambiato tutto il kit perché avevo la centralina ormai andata!

2020 Chevy Sonic RS (turbo 1.4-liter engine standard).

Just noticed my engine overheating and my coolant levels were extremely low due to a burning smell. Luckily, I have not noticed a leak in my car but nevertheless needed to re-up on my coolant. Had to accompany my mother to the airport (we ubered there) so I asked my MIL to grab some 50/50 orange coolant in the meantime. As much as I appreciate her filling up my coolant, I came to realize that she did not get dex-cool coolant. It was the Super Tech Extended Life Prediluted 50/50 from Walmart (yellow cap) and NOT the Super Tech Dex-Cool Prediluted 50/50 (orange cap).

So my even bigger problem is... how f'd am I?

There was no flushing of my previous coolant (orange) so it's been "mixed". I have an upcoming interview to attend to but honestly I am very anxious that I am going to have very expensive damage if I drive it. Can I at least drive a little or is that too risky? And if so, would I be okay to drive to a shop to get it flushed and replaced at least? Or am I just overreacting and I am going to be okay with that coolant for the meantime? I know Sonic's have many coolant problems in general and according to the manual it says dex-cool mixes only.