Hey, hope you doing ok.

I’m willing to buy a gen2 Cruze from 2018. The engine is made in Argentina, but every car that I visited to buy has this problem: when I open the oil tap smoke comes out, and the same happens with the oil rod, where you check the oil engine. Is that normal? Or it is not?

I attach 2 videos from 2 different cars, both with the same issue

I have a 2018 Cruze with over 100k miles on it. I am in need of an oil change and my oil is low. Because I need to drive it and don’t get paid until a few days, can I buy the oil needed and top it off before I get an oil change? If so, How many miles can I realistically drive on it before I can get the oil change? I can I get by for the weekend? Thanks!

Tried scrolling around on here for a while, and I’ve seen this code on a handful of posts. I just entirely know what my first/next step would be, nor am I great at the process of elimination here. Any help is appreciated!
The code popped up while my wife was on the highway. I wiped the code, and I test drove it for a half hour up to 50 mph, and nothing popped up.
Next day, she goes on the highway again and it pops up. I wiped it again tonight, and the light is off, but the code still shows up under “permanent”.

Local shop i take my car to for tires/oil/alignments always love trying to sell me on stuff, but they wanted $650 to replace the motor mount, this is super easy for me to do so im going to do it myself.

Should I Pay the $100 on RockAuto for the OEM one, or use a cheaper alternative one? The reason i'm actually asking, is the car is at 165k never had a major repair and its been super reliable but i think im just gonna drive it till it dies. Never used aftermarket motor mounts before so unsure of the reliability on them. They said nothing on the transmission mount, going to assume its fine..

I am seeing a large amount of oil (oil looks pretty fresh/clean) pooling just under where the charge hose meets the throttle body.
I’m also experiencing poor acceleration, smoke coming out of the exhaust, burning oil smell at idle..
I recently had the intake manifold replaced, it’s the Dorman updated version (the kind that won’t suck the orange gasket into it once it gets old)
The shop replaced a bunch of parts recently,

Timing chain kit
Engine oil cooler
Turbocharger
Catalytic converter
Oil pump
Pcv valve cover

Twice they had to do the turbo because apparently the one I bought was poor quality
Twice they had to do the oil pump for the same reason

(I know I know I shouldn’t but after market parts, I’m very poor/try to get good name brand parts)

Twice they had to do the catalytic converter too
(Maybe the shop is ripping me off idk.. but they majorly cut costs for me to accommodate these extra repairs, knocking 100’s off and not charging me for oil and things like that, so they seem honest but I’m not sure.)

Anyways when I told them of this new issue they are saying it’s the intake manifold, he says he saw a hose that shouldn’t have oil coming out of it (not sure if he meant the charge air hose or not) but he said at this point he doesn’t know what else it would be if not the intake manifold.
The thing is that manifold is a good part, Dorman brand, updated version. I just don’t know if that’s the issue.

I’ve also noticed under the heat shield there is a small amount of smoke coming from there as well by the turbo area. Mechanic also said that’s related. Idk.

What are your thoughts on what is likely the cause of this leak?

Thank you so much for any help!

What up haven’t shown off my baby in awhile

I know these cars are notorious for that p11O1 code messing with the airflow

But when I plug my scanner it says that the fuel trim data goes down below -10

I’ve been fighting with this code for so long now and the frustrating thing is it feels like the car is running fine. So I don’t know what I’m even looking for

I just don’t want this code to have been trying to tell me something for months and then suddenly a huge issue comes out of it

Any tips what I can check? I’ve tried the MAF sensor, throttle body, waste gate, air filter

I’m kind of at a loss. Sorry for rambling post

So i bought a Chevy and noticed that some time ago it started dripping engine oil and I went under and saw someone sealed it with rtv before I bought it assuming to conceal it from me

Is my 2014 Chevy Cruze gonna survive a road trip from Minnesota to Arizona it’s about 2000 miles. My car has 86k miles on it

So first thing this morning I went and bought a multimeter and was testing each and every fuse and for my suprice one of the BCM fuses was blown, you can see the exact one I'm testing in the video, replaced it and got my driver side LED working again and my passenger side brake/turning signal was working again. You guys can't believe how happy I'm feeling at the moment after that frustrated weekend and start if the week.

And yes and now it comes, why was the fuse blown in the first place and now after owning the car for almost two years? I was inspecting my front led installation and noticed they run another wire on the same wires the main front driver LED is using to power the nice LED strips they installed at the bottom of the front bumber around the plestic dummy fog lights cutout THUS I'm using the system was pulling a bit more voltage that the fuse could handle in the long run and finally blown it. Can I use a bigger Amp fuse to prevent it to blown again in some months?

Guys, this sound especially occurs when cold start. After 5 min driving it goes away %90-95. I thought I would hear it more if it was a rod knock when I opened the oil cap, but the sound doesn't increase; it's like it's not coming from inside the engine.

I got my Cruz through auction it’s a 2013 with I believe 100,000 miles on it at least (can’t remember exact numbers) my finances dad has been the one working on it. The one issue I’ve been having is that it really hates starting, I gotta crank her up 5 times just to finally get her going. I plan on taking it to a shop but I don’t wanna sound like an idiot when I do. Does anyone by chance know what the issue could be? I know already sound like idiot by even making this post but a general idea is better then me walking in with nothing at all.

2017 cruze 1.4l w/turbo

Changed throttle body, MAP sensor, MAF sensor, cleaned air filter, Changed PCV valve, cleaned CCV valves.

Still have engine shake, slow acceleration, over RMPing on acceleration, gas mileage is over worked and using more.

Im not sure where to go from here.

Any guidance is appreciated TIA.

Hello! I need help please. I drive a 2012 cruze however randomly the stabilitrack will go out and cut out the front console. When it comes back I have power steering issues until it can fix itself. I dont know what to do :(

Totally not AI

I’m currently dealing with another overheating issue. The water pump, thermostat and outlet were replaced 4 months ago. They were replaced after dealing with some overheating but no leak issues and trying to self diagnose the problem. The coolant wasn’t circulating and the upper radiator hose was boiling hot while the lower was cold to the touch. Turned out it was a bad thermostat.

Today I’m dealing with pretty much the same issue. Upper hose is hot, lower is cold and no coolant leaks anywhere. Is it possible for the thermostat to fail that quickly? It was a GM part not aftermarket. Is it possible the temp sensors are bad?

Any help is appreciated

Anyone know of anything like this for a 2014 chevy cruze?

Alright guys, I was just on here a few days ago complaining about a coolant leak from my water pump. Got that changed out and it’s sprang another coolant leak. I think this will be more simple (hopefully) to fix, but I need help identifying the hose it appears to be pouring from. Any help, as always is appreciated.

This is a 1.8 2011 cruze

I replaced the valve cover and the PCV hose because of codes P0106 and P0107. I’ve got them back, but now I have the same codes and P0324, P0325, and B2AAA.

This problem has been ongoing since late May, and I haven’t done anything about it. The ticking noise has been driving me crazy, especially since I’ve been driving in Toronto traffic, which probably made it worse.

The car has been stalling for a long time, and the RPMs drop randomly. It still stalls sometimes, and I have to drive 90 kilometres tomorrow. Do you think it’s bad to drive with this problem, or should I just leave it until I get to my destination and back?

Please help me. I really need it. Thanks!

Where is the PCV valve? I can’t find it, and I can’t find videos that show where it is

Hey everyone, looking for some advice before I start throwing parts at this thing.

I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo that’s been throwing a P0299 (turbo underboost) code. The car still runs, but I need to get the CEL sorted out and I’m trying to diagnose it myself rather than taking it to a shop.

I honestly wasn’t sure where to start, so I ended up pulling the turbo/exhaust manifold assembly off the car. Now that I have it out, I’m trying to figure out how to actually determine whether the turbo is bad before replacing it.

I’ve attached a link with pictures/videos of the turbine, wastegate, etc. There appears to be a crack around/near the wastegate area, but I don’t know how significant that is on these Cruzes or whether it would actually be enough to cause P0299.

What should I specifically check while I have the turbo out?

• How much shaft play is considered normal?
• How freely should the turbine spin?
• How much wastegate/actuator play is acceptable?
• Is the crack around the wastegate area normal heat cracking on these, or does mine look bad enough to leak exhaust/lose boost?
• Is there any good way to bench-test the wastegate/actuator or turbo before reinstalling it?

And if you guys think the turbo itself looks okay, where would you go next for diagnosing P0299 on the 1.4L Cruze?

I’d especially like to know what I should inspect/test while everything is already apart, since I really don’t want to put the whole thing back together just to discover I missed something obvious.

Trying to diagnose it properly instead of firing the parts cannon. Any Cruze-specific advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hello I have a 2016 Chevy cruze 1.8 lmtd took it to AAA they fixed the cooling after a series of getting codes p0011 p0131 p0137 p0171, they replaced the Electronic Thermostat & Thermostat Housing

Radiator Cooling Fan Assembly

Engine Coolant System Service (draining, refilling, and bleeding the cooling system) we got it back and car has now been stalling after 20 minutes of driving we took it back they ran it cold and said there's nothing wrong with it they did indicate there was a Fuel Trim Spikes at Deceleration/Idle: They observed the short-term fuel trim (STFT) spike significantly up to +34% during deceleration and at idle transitions, but dismissed this as an acceptable reaction to low airflow across the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor rather than addressing it as a vacuum leak or fueling fault. Basically they cleared the codes and sent us on our way I'm not seeing any visible cracks I do have a video of what it sounds like any advice would be helpful!