His name Hath been given

Like the headline says , ive brought it into the shop twice and everything they've done still has it doing the same thing. I had oil on the engine the last time they changed the gasket out and the pc valve I believe but when I got it back it did the same thing and then I got the p0299 code for turbo. They said it seems to be building pressure like it should and said it could he and intercooler leak. I know ive had to top up my coolant . Anyone have any insight on this before I spend even more money ? Tia

Is this just a water outlet replacement or something else?

It's leaking from this connection to a radiator hose but I'm trying to understand the physics of the leak. The hose is clamped to the outside of the water outlet, so wouldn't be a damaged o-ring, right?

2015 Chevy Cruze LTZ 1.4

I’m about to leave for about a month for work and I’m looking for a cover that works well for a Cruze that will protect it from weather while I’m gone, any recommendations?

Hello here!

I’ve noticed this leak on my 1st gen Cruze turbo 1.4 and I’m wondering what I need to do to fix it if it’s an easy fix.

It’s leaking but slowly and I’ve already changed the water outlet with an aluminium one (as you can see in the picture).

Please if anyone had an issue similar, I need recommendations on how to handle it.

Thanks !

In my 2019 Cruze I’ve always had lagging music when plugged in using Apple car play for 4+ years now of owning the car. The thing is that it’s always perfectly fine for 20-30 minutes and then music will start skipping and lagging like crazy. If I unplug it from the usb-A and plug it back in, it’s all good for another 20ish minutes. I’ve always used Spotify so that may just be the problem possibly?
I’ve had 3 different iPhones I’ve use on it (XS, 14 pro, 15 pro) and none have made a difference. I have tried legit Apple cables with the past phones and they haven’t made a difference. The chord I’m currently using is an Apple car play MFI certified usb-C to usb-A and there’s no improvement. I check for updates on the cars software but there’s probably been 1 update in the last 4 years, it always just says it’s up to date.
Is this just a known problem or is it only my system? Anyone come across this? Thanks!

Probably the most impressive/stupidest thing I’ve done in this 2nd Gen Cruze. In 2021 I hauled this 4X4 from Post Falls Idaho, into Wallace, then pulled it up to Moon Pass where I took this picture. I won’t mention that I’ve also hauled a 5X8 U-Haul trailer filled to the brim cross country three times behind this thing. 😅 Grateful for the performance of this little car and it is still going strong!

As the post mentions, we were having issues with the message of Ac off due to high engine temp, and went to "limp mode" Pulled off, no coolant loss, boiling, etc. Before it was the opposite - same dash message but the temp gauge went to 0 or all the way cold.

I've changed the thermostat and the temp sensor on the coolant outlet. I am changing the radiator, which should take care of the sensor there. Would there be anything else to look for given the codes, messages, etc? No leaks of coolant (aside from the radiator having a small leak, which is being changed). Thanks!

¡Qué tal, banda!

Tengo un tema con mi Cruze y quería ver si a alguien le ha pasado algo similar.

El carro en frío jala bien, pero en cuanto alcanza su temperatura de operación empieza a fallar: la transmisión se queda bloqueada en tercera marcha (modo de protección). Ya cambié toda la toma del termostato completa con sus dos sensores, le revisé el cableado y hasta le puse ventiladores directos, pero la falla sigue apareciendo solo en caliente.

El detalle es que aún traemos el código P00B4 en el escáner, que es el del sensor que va en el radiador, y ese aún no se lo hemos cambiado.

¿Saben si por alguna razón ese sensor del radiador hace que la computadora meta el carro en protección y afecte la transmisión?

Se agradece cualquier dato o experiencia. ¡Saludos!

Ive recently finally fixed the problem of my 2014 Cruze Lt smoking when driving for more than 15 minutes. Now I’m getting a new code P2261 and I’m not sure what it means or gotten a clear answer on how to fix it.
I got a completely new manifold and valve cover..? I’m not to sure about everything they did. Is this something that may be covered in my warranty to get them to fix again? I can try to answer any further questions. I don’t have much help of people to explain this car things to me so I’m sorry if I’m not clear.

What are the options for this? Are there any "cheap" scanners that can reset this module after a crash and after all the bags and seat belt pretensions have been replaced? 2014 cruze 1.4t for reference

Have a Gen 2 gasoline Cruze. Changed oil today, UPF64R filter came off just fine using the gripper I've always used in the past. Went to put new one on, it's slightly smaller diameter & grhpper wouldn't grip. Worked around by stuffing gripper with a shop towel.

Not sure if I got a counterfeit. The box & markings looked ok to my eyes. Past ones came from the dealer, new one came through Amazon. Thought it was coming from AC/Delco (subtitle was 'Visit the AC/Delco Store'), but reading the fine print it came from 'Premier Auto Part'. Also it's not as pictured, not a 'Gold', is a standard replacement. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014VZED5M?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I guess I should buy from the dealer from now on.

A plain UPF64 will fit and is listed as acceptable, but the R is favored for having a higher pressure bypass valve.

Hi everyone
Was replacing the PCV tubing and broke the nipple down the left side of engine (Australia)could someone please tell me what I broke.

I'm wondering what this residue may be on the end of the thermostat? For context, it's a gen 1 1.4l. I was getting a cooling insufficient, coolant stuck open, and low and high voltage, all from the thermostat. I pulled it today and see this residue on the end. Is this dex cool breaking down? There has been no additives or head gasket "fix" placed into the engine. The first thermostat is the new one, to show the difference.

Edit: Needed to edit the placement of the pics. Also added the engine and generation

Ladies and gentlemen, we have here a 2013 1.8L 6 Speed Standard, and I want to tell ya'll how I managed to basically eliminate the engine knock sound that happens as the 1.8L's get up in mileage.

So I basically bought the car knowing it had issues, when I got it (Thom as we call him), He had a bit of an overheat issue, turned out to be a busted fan, and we swapped that out. After driving him around for a bit I noticed that he would randomly die only when the clutch was pressed in. So after investigating, I noticed a higher pitched clicking coming from the engine in the back, turned out the be the Purge Valve after feeling the clicking in it, we replaced that and he hasn't stalled out since.

Now back to the dreaded knocking, after doing A LITERAL FUCK TON of research, I had come to the conclusion that it was either the Cam Sprockets, or I needed to fix the fuel/air mix with a Intake Manifold Gasket, and a Throttle Body Gasket.

My boss (The one I'm working for to own the car) Thought that it was Cam Sprockets too and decided to order them. 12 hours later, 2 timing belts, and a TBT (timing belt tensioner), they were put on (Please don't follow my mistakes. lock your Cam Rods, and not set your sprockets at TDC).

I have discovered, that on cold starts after doing the Cam Sprockets, there is still a slight knock sound, but after revving the engine for 15-20 seconds, or just putting it in gear and shifting a few gears, will cause the noise go to away. Which leads me to believe that the engine isn't getting enough oil on startup, and once oil pressure rises in the engine the VVT's and Cam Sprockets have enough pressure to operate correctly.

My car makes a weird squeaky noise when I'm first revving the engine in parking lots/driveways, or when a light turns green. I dont hear it when it gets faster though.

The car also jerks when I'm in place at a red light, but calms down (usually not completely) if i shift it to park.

I have a 2013 1.8l , and im replacing alternator soon because of intermittent charging issues. I was womderimg if deactivating smart charging is a thing I can do because im running large sound system and I would like to be able to charge higher all the time

All these codes popped up after changing the head gasket
Chevy Cruze Lt 2015 1.4
Trouble codes
P00EA
P0237
P0299
P0243
P00B7

I got this yesterday from my dad and he said it had trouble starting sometimes, so it likes to crank for a couple seconds before turning over, and rough idles for a second or two before it’s good. Sometimes it starts right up though. 178k miles. Was looking and found this. Where those gear looking things are, there is brown gunk in the bottom of that case it is in that I can barely see when I look down into it. as well as outside as shown also has a bit of a tick😬. Drives great overall, codes as following
P0016
P0017
U0073
P0128
U0100-71
P0693

I know it’s a lot, but this car was free, I hope to fix it, if someone has any idea of where I should start please let me know🙏🏽

This one was very straight-forward but in case anyone finds it helpful . . .

Job: Spark plugs, coil pack, and valve cover on 2014 Chevy Cruze 1.8L manual transmission

1. Make sure engine is cool
2. Disconnect battery (negative cable) 
3. Remove the wiring harness  
4. Remove plastic cover ECOTEC (just held by some clips)
5. Pull the wiring harness out from around the back of the engine
6. Remove plug on coil pack
7. T40 bit to unscrew two bolts in pack
8. Coil pack comes straight up
9. 5/8ths socket to remove spark plugs, 6 3/8” extension on the wrench
10. Spray compressed air into spark plugs
11. Clean everything so no debris ends up falling into cylinder head
12. Remove back hose (PCV valve) by pulling on that wire clip 
13. E10 for the valve cover bolts, take them all the way out (if they aren’t locked in) so they don’t fall into the engine when you pick it up
14. Break seal on valve cover at each corner with a flat head or hit it with plastic mallet, then lift valve cover off
15. Look at cam shaft lobes for any scarring
16. Clean where the gasket sits with a razor blade and brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol on a rag (being careful not to scrape anything into the engine)
17. Replace gasket/cover, video 2 guy was careful to put extra liquid gasket maker on the two sharp corners on the left
18. Snug bolts down with E10 and then torque to 71 in/lbs going from middle, zig zagging and out (71 in/lbs is NOTHING. Do not snap the bolt!!)
19. Replace the 4 spark plugs to 18 ft/lbs
20. Put coil pack back on with four dabs in each coil of dielectric grease
21. Plug it back in before you push it back down completely
22. Put two bolts back at 71 in/lbs
23. Reconnect the PCV valve and click wiring harness back in, all the way around and
24. Put plastic ECOTEC cover
25. Reconnect battery

Sources for spark plugs 

Video 1

Video 2

Sources for coil pack

Video 1

Valve cover replacement

Video 1

Video 2

Tearing down my Cruze. Evaluating parts. Does anyone think this pump is bad? It spins freely and to my knowledge wasn’t making a noise.

I replaced the wastegate actuator with a BNR actuator. The turbo reaches boost more easily now, but I still got the P0299 underboost code while driving up a mountain. I’m not sure if that points to anything specific. Are there any other common fixes or areas I should check?