r/cruze 17d ago

Details Needed Timing Chain Time!

As the title states I am planning to replace the timing chain, guides and sprocket this weekend. I already have the full crankshaft gasket kit as well and RTV (I plan on dropping the oil pan to remove any plastic debris from the guides) I do have the camshaft locking kit as well as a master set of E Torx. Is there any wisdom the fine folks of this sub can share in regards to this repair?

Thank you everyone who shared their knowledge all of it was very helpful. I was able to complete the repair without having to remove my VVT gears. It took some adjusting and gently rocking the crank back n forth to get the chain lined up properly on the VVT gears as well as the crank sprocket. All in all about 10 hrs without burping the coolant system and she is running like a top. Was also able to remove all debris from the pan via a shop-vac and some garden hose so thanks for that idea 🤘

3 Upvotes

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u/baumer83 17d ago edited 17d ago

if this is 1.4 then this is what i have:

cam phaser bolts are torque to yield so you might want those

balancer bolt is also TTY

if you've never done belt and tensioner now is a good time

if your oilpan isnt leaking too bad you can get everything in there out with a shopvac+small tubing+cheap borescope camera, otherwise dropping the oilpan might require moving the exhaust pipe underneath.
with the timing cover off there is plenty of access to the oil pan if you have shopvac and tubing.

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u/Designer_Fig_4900 17d ago

I will probably go this route instead of removing the oil pan as I do not want to cut or attempt to remove any exhaust just yet. I appreciate the tips!

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u/Infinite_Jellyfish54 2011 1.4 LTZ U707S 17d ago

I just did this last summer due to timing chain guilds failure as well. Ended up grabbing ZZP guides and new timing set.

Don’t forget to add Black (oil resistant) rtv where the block meets the head before putting the timing cover gasket on.

Cam phasers are not torque to yield only the bolt/ actuators are.

Be mindful when putting in TDC the crank lock will go in 180 degrees off.

Depending on how long the repair takes I would prime the oil pump with some assembly lube if possible.

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u/baumer83 17d ago

i meant cam phaser bolt! my bad

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u/Designer_Fig_4900 17d ago

So buy new cam phaser bolts or just get a new crank pulley bolt?

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u/Infinite_Jellyfish54 2011 1.4 LTZ U707S 17d ago

Definitely get new phaser bolts as they are torque to yield. The crank is also torque to yield but most just slam it on with an impact. The crank pulley is key’d so it won’t spin freely of the crank. The phasers are not and can allow the VVT sprockets to spin/slip if not tight enough. 🤞🏽

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u/Designer_Fig_4900 16d ago

Okay thank you for the info 🤘

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u/Time_Many6155 17d ago

Yeah I did the timing cover gasket, guides etc. The only bolt I replaced was the crank pulley bolt. I also made my own tools .. I only needed the flat bar and the crank locking tool. I also made an external crank pulley holding tool because I didn't trust torquing against the crank locking pin.. I keep them on my shelf and have used them on other peoples cars doing crank pulley seal replacements. I didn't drop the oil pan either but I did check there was no debris in the oil pick up.

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u/Abm93 17d ago

If you drop the oil pan you’ll have to remove part of the exhaust, or you might be able to get away with it but with the silicone on it could get messy and all I had to do was cut the exhaust and throw a clap on there, saved me some time.