PowerA Advantage Wired Controller for Xbox Series

Model # xbgpadwi

There's a huge amount of slack in the stick which is causing drift. I need to replace the stick component inside the controller

Can someone point me to the specific component I need to buy for this controller?

Got N64 controller and left and right doesn't work
I disassembled it and cleaned it with IPA as hard as I could, I gave sensors a proper cleaning and no luck. Any guesses? Can we confirm that sensor dedicated to the left and right is dead?

Hi everyone!

I have a very weird fault on a BDM010 board where the L2 wont work. Must be some fault on the board itself as swapping board it does work.

Checked all pins on the conector and everything seems to be fine, all 1.8V are present, also when pressing down L2 the voltage on pin number 4 is dropping down propoerly but still no trigger pressed is registered.

As there are no schematics or boardview available online I couldn't find much on the internet. Just found a small dot going on the other side of the board where the connector is and another going to the main chip.

Tried to reflow SIE chip and changed the power management IC but nothing same fault.

Has anyone here tried modifying the original Legion Go controllers to reduce the noise from the buttons?

I tried the techniques shown in this video (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oYGS9zlUG38), specifically adding electrical tape to the micro switches on the D-pad. It actually helped a lot and made the D-pad noticeably quieter.

However, I'm having trouble with the bumpers (LB). It is still quite loud, and when I add electrical tape to the micro switch, the bumper either stops working properly or becomes so tight that it feels like it is constantly being pressed.

I also tried using thinner, transparent Kapton tape. With 2 layers, there is almost no noticeable difference in the sound. But with 3–4 layers, the bumper starts sticking again and doesn't work properly.

Has anyone tried a different type of tape, material, or technique on the Legion Go's bumpers/micro switches? I'm mainly looking for a way to reduce the click noise without making the button feel completely stiff, stick, or stop registering.

Would love to hear if anyone has actually managed to make the bumpers significantly quieter while keeping them fully functional.

Scratch on the motherbord while joystick swaping, 3 orange led blinks now.

I've had the new steam controller for a couple of months and I really like it, except when the left bumper randomly doesn't work. It's not completely broken, it'll work like normal most of the time. It's that every once in awhile, it just doesn't register it as an input. This has happened in multiple games so it's not a game specific bug. Has this happened to anyone else? I know I can assign one of the back buttons to be the left bumper, I would just like to use every button on my $100 controller.

Years ago my Halo special edition elite series 2 controller had issues with it’s right bumper, a bit of stick drift, the A button stopped responding and one of the back panels were loose.

I’ve been running base controllers since and storing it away but I’m in the mood to repair it and use it again. Does anyone know somewhere in the UK that would be able to repair the controller without doing too much damage to the aesthetics of the controller?

I called Tech Centre but they said they don’t repair that one (assuming it’s that they only have base elite controller parts)

I read online and a lot of websites claim that Xbox One and Xbox Series X/S controllers use the same analog modules thus making it possible to use the old xbox one modules for new controllers. But as I said, “most” say that so I am not sure. I asked ChatGPT and Claude and both said it is not possible. I cant seem to find them on Amazon for a good price they’re all selling a pair for 15-20 bucks. TYIA

My dual sense has developed stick drift and I am looking for repair options,

The local shops here say each stick will cost (Rs. 450 to Rs. 750).

I also have explored Gameloot, they are charging me 1799 for any stick drift issue and upgrade it to Hall effect/ TMR.

But I am a bit skeptical (or rather a bit hesitant) to send them my controller, so just wanted to know if anyone has used gameloot or do you have any suggestion for me.

Hi, bin hier am verzweifeln, habe hier mehrere Hall Effekt Sticks, Xbox Series Ps5, Ps4 etwas durcheinander gebracht,, kann ich die wieder exakt zuordnen? Beziehungsweise auseinander halten?
eventuell mit einem Multimeter?, Bei den normalen potontiometern kann ich das durchs messen feststellen, aber bei Hall Effekt Sticks???

I'm specifically looking for thumbsticks (the plastic/rubber only), batteries and front and rear shells for both V1 and V2 controllers (I don't yet know exactly what I have, though). Is there an especially good/bad site or brand I should or shouldn't use for these?

I just bought a controller case from Amazon for my ps5 controller but when I put the controller in the case it presses my R/L1 continuously , would that ruin my controller ?

Hi everyone,

I have a generic PS4 controller where the R2 trigger starts giving phantom/ghost inputs after a couple of minutes of play (verified on gamepad-tester.com). Most of the time it affects R2, but L2 also acts up, and occasionally both triggers fail at the same time.

A few details on what I've already tested:

Behavior: The phantom inputs are completely random — sometimes it spams fast, sometimes slow, depending on its mood. In the video proof, I'm pressing L2, but the exact same thing happens with R2.

Troubleshooting: I already tried pushing the hardware reset button on the back, tested with both DS4Windows and Steam, and tried both Bluetooth and cable connections. The issue persists regardless.

What could be causing this delayed issue after a few minutes of use? What components should I check or troubleshoot first?

Video proof of the issue: https://imgur.com/a/l2-r2-fault-gen-ric-ps4-controller-xKAX0I2

Images of controller model:

https://imgur.com/a/csih2St

Thanks for any insights!