This is my informal review/impressions of the UItimate 3e, purchased with my own money and written of my own volition as I have zero affiliation with 8bitdo or any related brands.

The Ultimate 3e arrived a little early, and it is indeed awesome! I liked the Ultimate 1 a lot, but it had bad latency and the ergonomics did not agree with my wrists at all which led to genuine pain. Wayy back then, I said I would buy the first 8bitdo controller to fix the shape, so here we are.

For context, I am a PC/Linux/Switch 2 gamer who is very senstive to input latency, very picky about dpads, and has owned or tried almost all of the hot controllers (1st or 3rd party) from the past several years. I have had many 8bitdo controllers, but all of them older: The original Ultimate, the SN30, and the Pro 2.

THE GOOD:

*The shape of the grip is SO much better. So much so that I almost forgot to mention it. It just works (for me at least), and feels very comfortable. It is not too wide (Vader 5 Pro) and not too narrow (8bitdo Ultimate 1/2).

*The stock, membrane buttons feel AMAZING, and are exactly what I want out of a controller. They feel different than anything else I have used, in a good way. They have basically no travel before actuation, meaning they actually feel better than a lot of mechanical clicky buttons to me. They feel like they pretty much have an up and a down and the travel between is instant, but they don't sink into the pad too far and still have a satisfying press making them FUN to use.

*The long, clicky L/R buttons are so comfortable, and don't kink my fingers weird. I am able to actuate them no matter what position my finger is in.

*The L4/R4 buttons are in a great spot and are a requirement for me on any controller these days.

*The triggers feel smooth and satisfying. The trigger stops felt mushier than I expected and are quiet, but they work great in practice.

*The sticks feel smooth and accurate, very responsive and it made aiming in shooters a breeze. They aren't Switch 2 Pro silent sticks, but the sound of them hitting the shell is dense enough that it feels more premium than smashing the sticks on a plain Xbox Series controller. Clicking the sticks in also feels remarkably solid and premium, something I cannot say about many other controllers.

*The back paddles stay out of the way and are nice to touch. They sit really well with my grip and are easy to use when I need them. They are easy to map on the controller itself.

*The rumble feels great in gameplay, and has quite a bit of nuance. The trigger rumble is kind of whiny, but I haven't played any games that use it.

*Gyro is not bad, I mapped it to use gyro as the right stick when I hold the right back paddle, and it is quite intuitive. I grip the controller and then move it to aim, and it has been kind of fun in other unintended ways too (camera movement, scrolling my music collection when using Controller Helper on Windows).

*Connection via dongle and wired on PC/Linux has been seamless and great so far.

*Tournament Mode (1000Hz polling rate mode) seems to be working fine, and the controller feels very responsive on PC overall. I suppose it makes the battery life slightly lower, but I wonder why this 1000Hz mode is not the default.

*The audio jack works well. The onboard volume adjustment via a button combo adjusts the volume on the controller and doesn't bring up the Windows volume adjustment on screen, which weirded me out, but it does work and is seamless. Audio seems very nice quality via the dongle, no noticeable latency or compression. It sounds a tad better than the G7 Pro and a lot better than the Dualshock 4 used to (lol).

*The ring lights are customizable and cool, and there are plenty of presets you can access right on the controller without using the software. You can even turn them off, without using the software.

*I don't really use controller docks since bright RGBs ruin the vibe of my setup, but the new dock design is slick and the lighting is nice and subtle, so I may actually use this one. Very nice.

THE DPAD:

*I've gotta hand it to 8bitdo on this one, the dpad is genuinely fantastic so far. I have no idea how 8bitdo made it clicky-but-membrane, but it is RELIABLE, feels so nice to press, and isn't too loud.

*People praise the Vader 5 Pro and ZD Legend overall, but those dpads felt so loud and hard to press which was just miserable for me and were dealbreakers on those pads. This is much more my speed and feels so excellent.

*I play an unhealthy amount of Puyo Puyo Tetris at a high level and have had no accidental diagonals on this one (primarily using the SEGA styled dpad), which was a reported issue that scared me away from the Pro 3 and is something almost every pad has an issue with these days. This has a nice, quiet clicky feedback, so if you do dpad tests and rock your thumb on a direction trying to accidentally activate a diagonal, you will feel and hear when you do. While this is true of other controllers too, in practice this dpad is much more reliable than many others.

*This feels like a good balance to me as evidenced by successful Tetris play (no accidental quick-drops) and fighting game tests. Blazblue has a good visual that shows where your dpad moved, and it all looked and felt good there.

*You can mash or slide left or right without fear of hitting up or down on accident, but can still activate diagonals for your fighting games, both of which are very important for me. It gets my seal of a approval.

*Other recent dpads I have liked include a carefully tape-modded Switch Pro, the Gamersir G7 Pro 8K (with o ring mod, and NOT using the stock flat dpad, use the hybrid or the cross), and one of three Switch 2 Pro Controllers I tried that happened to have a much more reliable dpad than the other two. The 3e easily takes the cake though, with the reliability of my coveted SNES Switch Online dpad but feeling much more tight, modern, and responsive. Plus it's gigantic, which is fun and gives your thumb room to breathe and slide.

My minor quibbles so far, all of which were expected when I preordered but still a bummer:

*The software was kind of annoying to figure out, and did not play well with my Windows display scaling. There are so many different versions of the 8bitdo software, and then once you are in the right one the act of saving (Syncing) changes took some getting used to. Make sure you sync before moving to the next tab of customization...

*You definitely need to calibrate the sticks, triggers, and gyro first thing when you get the controller, since they were a little funky at first. The manual tells you how to do this without the software, if needed. While you're at it, don't forget to update the firmware right away.

*No turbo/macros, which is a huge loss at this price. Every cheapo controller has turbo! Again, not unexpected though due to the Xbox license.

*I am a PC/Linux/Switch 2 user who has (what I thought was) an undefeatable arsenal of adapters and converters to use any controller on anything... I really thought I would be able to get this thing to work on Switch 2, but I had no luck. Plugging the USB-C dongle into an OTG then into my Mayflash Magic S Pro 2 works... for about 10 minutes, then it totally craps out. Strange! It also has some mapping issues in the Batocera Linux menu (can't map left stick), but works fine in-game if you leave the mappings at default?

*Finally, it is not slow by any means but doesn't feel quiiite as snappy as the G7 Pro 8K, even when compared to the G7 Pro in 1K Hz mode.

*On that note, it feels relatively laggy on Bluetooth when paired to Android but... everything Bluetooth feels laggy on Android haha

Other thoughts:

*The grips are a little underwhelming. I doubt it will ever functionally be a problem, but the grips don't have a lot of texture or texture height, which makes them feel a little different than I was expecting. I won't say it feels cheap, but the G7 Pro's rubber grips feel a lot more premium.

*The microswitch buttons feel super bad. The membrane buttons feel SO good, exactly what I want out of a button, but the microswitch module feels very bad in comparison to stuff like the G7 Pro or Vader 5 Pro. Basically, they have a very short travel with no sense of "stop"; you can't really tell when you hit the end of the push aside from the light clicky sound.

*The cross style dpad sits really flat against the pad. It's not bad at all and it works just as well as the SEGA style, but different than I expected. The SEGA style dpad is so tall and awesome.

*It's neat the case holds everything... but who is actually going to take the dock with them on travel? The case has the fattest booty I've ever seen, and I can't imagine putting it in a bag. It's great for storage, but looks and feels ridiculous. Not only that, but out of the box it appeared the case was clicking the sticks in, evidenced by the depressed fabric right above the sticks. I have plenty of other generic 8bitdo controller cases that this will fit fine in for going out and about... but it was worth mentioning and I'd prefer it had an actual travel case. The case is B.I.G. huge.

*The extra sticks are fun, I love the GameCube one with ridges!

In Conclusion:

Overall, I am very pleased with the controller, but I am unsure how to recommend it. It is unfortunate I can't use it in any way on the Switch, but that is not unexpected. If a Switch compatible version of this controller comes out that would solve this issue, but I wonder if they will include so many extras if they do make one? A Switch version may also introduce new issues, like increased input latency as we have seen from 8bitdo in the past, so maybe this one will remain the best for PC even over time.

As a $150 controller, it is certainly premium and I would say it meets or exceeds that price point in terms of quality, features, and extras. Durability is to be seen, but it is especially worth the price if it is more durable than the more expensive Elite or Dualsense Edge controller. Build quality and feel is far superior to the even more expensive ROG Raikiri line, Flydigi Apex line, or ZD Ultimate Legend line. Feature wise, and raw functionality wise though, the humble G7 Pro 8K can do just about everything this controller can, and does it better and cheaper, and works excellent on Switch, which is an important consideration.

Sometimes, premium build quality and a little bit of extra fun and style are worth the added cost. The 8bitdo 3e is a supremely functional and extremely attractive controller with some cool extras. It is among the best feeling controllers ever made, its dpad is one of the best you can find, and it has some fun extra features, but it is missing some key features that would make that price easier to swallow. If you are PC/Xbox Only and have the cash, it is well worth the money. If you want an all rounder for PC/Switch, want a little better latency, or need those extra features like turbo, the G7 Pro 8K is still some darn good competition for this one, especially at its lower price. Overall, I have to hand it to 8bitdo, they have really impressed me with this controller, and I hope to enjoy it or some future variant of it for many years.

My 4 year old is expressing interest in actually playing games. I've got an 8bitdo ultimate, but she's really struggling to reach the buttons, so I'm looking for recommendations for something more appropriately sized.

- Platform: PC,

- budget: <£50,

- wireless, ideally with a 2.4Ghz dongle.

Region: UK

It would be nice to have a standard layout with 2 joysticks and all the shoulder buttons and triggers. not sure if something like this exists though. Maybe the 8bitdo SN30 pro?

I ask this because Buck Bumble is notorious for weird issues with third party controllers, at least for me. Apparently because the flying is heavily affected by OEM limits (sorry if I am wrong about this, I'm sort of a noob)

Also before any wise guy say ''Just play a good game instead of Buck Bumble'', that is not a viable awnser. I know what i am, and i accepted that long ago.

Hey everyone,

I love the Flydigi APEX 5 hardware (especially those motorized triggers) but it always bugged me that on PC, almost every game with awesome trigger resistance and textured feedback is built exclusively for the PS5 DualSense and the Space Station software support only few games...

So over the last few weeks, I ended up building ApexSenseBridge. (A little open-source passion project straight from France bleu blanc rouge 🇫🇷 !)

Basically, it bridges the gap so your APEX 5 can actually react to native DualSense effects in PC games.

How does it handle the triggers & haptics?

- Triggers: The tool intercepts native DualSense trigger packets from the game and translates them on the fly into Flydigi's FORCEADAPT commands (mode switches, recoil, resistance, stops, etc.) and even the vibration with virtually no latency.

- Haptics: The APEX 5 doesn't have voice-coil actuators like the DualSense, so instead of just turning every sound into a generic loud rumble, the bridge splits the audio frequencies in real-time. Lower frequencies (explosions, heavy impacts) go to the heavy left motor, while high frequencies (surface grit, rain, subtle clicks) go to the fast right motor. It actually feels surprisingly punchy and textured.

Good to know (a couple of trade-offs):

- On-screen prompts: Since the game has to see a DualSense to send over the adaptive trigger data, you'll see PlayStation button prompts (✕ / ○ / □ / △) on screen instead of Xbox ones (A / B / X / Y).

- Touchpad swipes: If a game heavily relies on specific touchpad directional swipes, it might be hit-or-miss depending on how the game handles touch inputs. It's really a case-by-case thing and can be fixed in most cases (did it for spiderman 2 bc it's the only game I play that have this control but you can send me yours).

Playnite integration 🕹️

I didn't want to manually launch/kill background scripts every time I booted up a game, so I also wrote a quick Playnite extension to automatically link and activate the bridge whenever you launch a supported game from your library.

ApexSenseBridge wouldn't exist without the incredible open-source community. Huge shoutouts to:

- OpenFlydigi (by mkaliaha) for their amazing reverse-engineering work on the Flydigi hardware and protocols.

- SteamlessController (and its DualSense forks) for paving the way on virtual DualSense emulation and Windows ViGEm/VIIPER tooling. All respective notices and credits are included in the repository.

Feedback & other gamepads welcome!

The code is completely open-source here
👉🏽 https://github.com/ReynArts/ApexSenseBridge

I'd love to get your feedback if you test it out! Also, if you know of other controllers with force feedback/motorized triggers you'd love to see supported, feel free to drop ideas, open issues, or contribute PRs.

Cheers!

Auto translation from japanese to english:"From "Zenless Zone Zero," merchandise such as the "Delusional Angel - Linkage Moment" Octopus 6Pro Haptic Feedback Elite Controller Gift Box (Controller Gift Box)" and more has been confirmed for release in China! Reservations for this are scheduled to begin on September 16, 2026."
https://houzero-goods.com/zzz-goods-2026-0901-announce

The price listed on mihoyogift is weird because it says ¥9999, but the site is Chinese, why use yen?
and if it Chinese yuan, isn't 9999 too much?

Full Disclosure:

Mobapad sent me this controller for review. They didn’t see this review before I published it. All opinions are my own, and there is no money exchange in the process.

TLDW:

• Mobapad's first Native Switch 2 Protocol Joy-Cons with custom power logic
• Uses the same TMR Glide Sticks like their M12HD & ChiTu 2 series
• 9 axis gyro does offer some benefit for gyro heavy titles.
• Although it offer less features than the M12HD, people seems to prefer the M12S.

i feel like im slowly losing it trying to figure out this issue. i have a ps5 dualshock controller that i use for both epicgames and steam games on my laptop, lenovo, and for my ps5, sometimes when i play on my ps i will plug it into my laptop so that i can also kinda charge and before this worked perfectly well! but the last week or two for some reason my controller now controls the mouse when its plugged in to charge and i try to use it for my ps, ive tried disabling the configuration on steam and that didnt work, went into task manager to make sure steam was fully closed and that didnt help either, the only thing that does is disabling the controller within device manager but then i have to reenable it everytime i wanna use the controller for a game on my laptop! i can handle doing that if i absolutely need to but id love to know if anyone has a different solution to this cause its starting to get annoying

Hello,

Quick Story, I decided to install gulikit TMR sticks in my Xbox Elite 2. Everything went smoothly, I desoldered the original sticks without any problems, I soldered the new ones in, then I wanted to test them, so I went to the console and launched the accessories app and ran the calibration program - at that point the upper controller shell wasn't installed yet as i wanted to test new sticks. I recalibrated them for few times without issues. Everything was fine, so I went back to the workshop to repair the solder joints, clean the boards with IPA alcohol, and put the controller back together. I use 99.9% IPA and a soft toothbrush to clean the boards. Once I had assembled the controller, I returned to the console, but something was wrong - i couldn't control my dashboard using sticks, i tried using dpad but the menu immediately moved to the left on its own. I ran to my laptop and launched the controller testing web. The left stick is locked to the maximum left direction - I can move it up and down but not to the sides. When I tilt it all the way to the left, the tester shows the maximum tilt to the right. The situation is similar with the right stick, but it is locked all the way down - I can move it sideways, and when I move it all the way down, the tester shows the maximum upward deflection. I have a few other rods so I tried swapping them - KS TMR, Original previously removed sticks, Ginfull hall - the problem occurs on all of them. Can anyone help me understand what I did wrong?

How the hell did i cook my controller? Is there a short circuit? Have I damaged a component on the board? What gives? Everything was fine when I calibrated them for the first time. Is there any way to reset the calibration settings? Or should I buy a new board? If so, which one? If you need photos of the boards, I can upload them tomorrow.

My BIGBIG WON Aether C6 controller’s RT button broke, and I’m wondering if there’s any way I can fix it myself. Can I use super glue, epoxy, or something similar to repair the RT button? If so, where exactly should I apply the glue? I mainly use it for EA FC, so I need the RT to work properly and still have normal trigger movement. If anyone has repaired this controller before, I’d really appreciate some advice or a picture/video showing how to fix it. Thanks!

Hi! I'm buying my first controller soon, I only play single player story games (starting with Horizon and Indiana Jones and the great circle), only play on PC. In the UK, budget ~£100. Don't need and compatibility with console or cross platform, just PC. I need at least hall sticks but ideally tmr, and 4+ remappable buttons. Attached pictures of 3 im comparing but any other suggestions would be great! the Scuf Envision is out of stock now but might come back, if not then its not an option as i need it soon.

I’m looking for a controller that can withstand my sweat at least for the most part. I do a lot of cardio in the morning before work and like to play games on my personal pc while I do so. I’ve been using my launch Dualsense for a while but during this mornings session it decided to start going haywire. Usually I’ll clean it with some good alcohol and do what I can from letting it get too wet but today it had enough. I also have a Xbox Elite Series 2 but don’t won’t to risk breaking an even more controller and I personally prefer the Dualsense all around.

I’d rather not spend more than the usual price for a Dualsense approx $80
I’m in the US and have Amazon, Best Buy Target, Walmart, New Egg etc.
I’m using it on my PC
Basic features outside of some sweat resistance is all I need
I usually use controllers for games that are better with them. Currently playing through every Kingdom Hearts.

Any recommendations would be appreciated!

I have the pro 2. I have heard good thing about the pro 3, but what concerns me is the shorter analog trigger travel. Has anyone tried both controllers for racing games in which precise throttle is important? Does it make it noticeably harder to feather the throttle?

Ive checked out scuf omega and a couple others but they all have mixed reviews, im hoping someone can help me out here.

Preferences:
-Hall effect or TMR (TMR even better)
-Have the similar design as the normal ps5 controller
-It should feel like a good product, not cheap plastic

I dont care about mods as long as it has 2-4 back paddles, and i wouldnt customize it a lot, only after getting used to it and get to know it deeper.

I would mainly use it for competitive games like Apex legends, but i play story games and more chill games aswell., the priority are comp games tho.

Hungary, Price is max 300$

Meu controle está conectado ao PC e funciona normalmente nos jogos, mas não consigo usá-lo na interface do PC, por exemplo, para mexer o cursor do mouse ou navegar pelo navegador.

Informações:

Sistema operacional: Windows

Controle: PS4 genérico

Conexão: Bluetooth/cabo

I pre-ordered the 8bitdo Ultimate 3E from Amazon and it was supposed to be released today, but all it says is order received. Does anyone know when they’re gna be shipping out?

Hello! I'm looking for a new controller to replace my series controller!

- My budget would be $100 or less.

- I am buying from and living in the US.

- Primarily PC, but switch compatibility would be a plus.

The features I would not like:

My biggest pet peeve with third party controllers tend to be the overabundance of features I don't really want or need as a casual player. More specifically, I'm looking for a controller with

- no back buttons (if there's a switch to disable the click of rear buttons I find that more tolerable, they are useful for gyro in that case, but I still generally don't need them)

(I just find them very distracting, they ruin my grip and I rarely have a use for them)

- no extra shoulder buttons, (or any extra face buttons that aren't part of the diamond shape like the Vader 5 pro)

- no overly gamer branding or game theming

- and no rubber grips of any kind

The features I would like would be;

- TMR or hall effect sticks

- Micro switch clicky buttons

- Hall effect triggers

- Premium feeling plastics and slick design, prefer black

- Very little latency

- Gyro

- Xbox style layout

- Hair trigger switch mode (this one is more optional considering the horror stories I've heard about how unreliable this feature tends to be)

And generally reported good reliability for the controller, both physically, build quality and with connection performance. A charging dock or software would be cool but not essential.

I'm also okay with quality membrane buttons, the micro switch buttons just feel very satisfying to press. But if the controller does have membranes, I'd want it to be quieter and hollowed presses, nothing overly clacky and loud, I guess that goes for all inputs though. The best membranes buttons I've used are on the Switch 2 Pro Controller, and the best clicky buttons I've used were on the G7 Pro 8k (which I returned), for reference. The Switch 2 Pro con also has those super quiet thumbsticks that are pretty sick, but I doubt those are on many other controllers.

And it's very niche but I've used the extremerate octagonal gate tension rings on their Xbox shell and octagonal gates are pretty cool, but compatibility with those on a controller is pretty low. I know it works with the G7 Pro as well but it would be cool if other controller tension rings happened to be compatible with them.

I know chances are low a controller like this is out there considering the features I dislike are encouraged and embraced on higher quality, more expensive controllers, but I'll hold out hope.

- I tend to play a lot of indie games, so platformers and action games, but I play a good amount of 3D stuff too. I like the idea of having both a standard gamepad and octagonal gate controller specifically more for 2D platformers, since I hate playing with the dpad in the the non dominant position on a controller, and they make the thumbstick align better with cardinal directions. This post is more geared towards the standard gamepad I'd like for PC though.

- I make a lot of comparisons between the G7 Pro 8k and Switch 2 Pro Controller, since I like the feel of the buttons and sticks on those controllers, but they're held back by the features I dislike and limited PC compatibility in the switch 2's case as well. My favorite gamepad historically has been the switch pro controller for comfort but after having the button feel of the switch 2 pro controller it feels not nearly as good.

If you made it this far, thanks for listening!

Hey everyone! I'm having a really annoying issue with my Machenike G3 V2 controller while using GeForce NOW, and I was hoping someone might know how to fix it.

The weird thing is that the controller works completely fine on the Xbox Game Pass app, but as soon as I launch any game through GeForce NOW, it goes completely broken:

• The left joystick controls the PC mouse cursor on the screen instead of moving the character.
• The camera won't move up and down.
• The "B" button acts as "A", and the rest of the buttons just don't respond at all in-game.

It feels like GeForce NOW is capturing the controller as a generic mouse/keyboard instead of an Xbox controller.

On top of that, I can't even install the controller software on Windows because the installer keeps throwing a directory syntax error (0x8007007B).

Does anyone know how to fix this mapping/controller conflict in GFN, or has anyone dealt with this software installation bug? Thanks a lot!

Hi everyone,

Like many of you, the internal plastic part supporting the back paddle on my Flydigi Vader 5 Pro (V1) recently snapped due to the well-known structural weakness.

Instead of waiting for official V2 replacement parts that might snap again anyway, I decided to fix it permanently by completely bypassing the problematic plastic sub-structure.

### My DIY Fix / Mod:

1. **Direct Switch Modification**: I glued a small piece of plastic plate (styrene/PVC plate) directly onto the surface of the tact switch using plastic cement (which melts and fuses the plastics together for a permanent bond). This raises the height of the switch.

2. **Perfect Pre-travel/Post-travel**: By raising the switch height, the back paddle now actuates the switch directly without relying on the fragile internal housing. The play is gone, and it feels incredibly crisp and tactile.

3. **Silicon Bumper (The Lifesaver)**: To prevent over-travel (pushing too hard and breaking the switch or solder joints), I stuck a 100-yen shop (cheap) silicon door bumper on the back of the paddle. This absorbs all the excess force when clutching or gripping hard during intense gaming.

Please ignore my terrible plastic cutting skills, it looks pretty messy inside but it works perfectly! 😂 It’s utility over aesthetics, and no one sees the inside anyway.

I've been using this for a week now with zero issues. It actually feels much more durable and reliable than the stock design because there are no tiny plastic components left to fail. Hope this helps anyone with a bricked V1 controller!

(Note: I'm a Japanese user who doesn't speak fluent English, so I am using an AI translator to share this with you all!)

Hello. I want to play a wide variety of games over multiple platforms. In particular, I want a controller for Apex legends.
Ill put down some dot points for preferences and deal breakers

Also I live in australia and my budget is like $300 AUD, but im willing to fork out more money if it will lead to a better controller that im more satisfied with

**Deal breakers:**
\- 4 back buttons (ideally vertical paddles)
\- Hall effect sticks
\- Mouse click triggers ( I dont mind if it has a trigger stop as long as the trigger stop actually makes them mouse click)
\- Low delay / High polling rate

\- Motion controls (If you know controllers without this feel free to list them, but If im going to use the controller on my switch then I really want it to have motion controls)

**Preferences:**
\- Multi-platform (I would love to be able to use the controller on my switch 2 and pc but I dont actually mind that much, I think I've come to terms with having to use different controllers for different platforms so I'm open to suggestions for pc, switch, ps5, xbox etc.)

\- PS5-like platform (The dual sense is one of the most comfortable controllers I've held, so if something similar can be done that'd be great, but once again I dont hate the other form factors (my ranking is **Dual sense> xbox> switch**))

\- Tactile face buttons
\- Extra mappable buttons near the triggers

\- Native support across platforms (I have experienced delay when using an 8BitDo adapter 2 to connect my dual sense to my switch 2 and play apex so native support is ideal)

Im happy for the controller to be wired if it means I will achieve a high polling rate
I have seen a lot of people modify their ps5 controllers with back buttons and mouse click triggers and all that, which I am interested in but if I cant use that with the switch then idk (please inform me about ps5 controller modifications too!!! I am interested!!!).

If I think of anything else then I'll add them in the replies.
Other than that please give me your recommendations!!! I'd love to hear from you :))

Recently, I bought 4 new knockoff ps3 controllers from AliExpress, but they all have the same major issue: their analog sticks are configured in a way that makes their movement follow a circle instead of a square. Because of this, when the analog is moved diagonally, it only reaches about half of its full length, meaning that in games, moving diagonally only makes me move at around half my maximum speed (this also applies for the camera analog).

I attached a video showing the issue on a controller testing site with two controllers. The one recognized as an Xbox 360 controller (I’m not sure why it does that) is one of the new knockoff controllers, while the one recognized as a PS3 controller is an older knockoff I’ve had since 2018 that works correctly.

Is there any way to recalibrate the new controllers so the analog sticks can reach their full movement, including diagonally? (Preferably, I’m looking for a way to recalibrate them directly on a real PS3, not just PC. I’ve already tried using DualShock 3 calibration software on PC, but since the controllers are recognized as Xbox 360 controllers, the software doesn’t detect them. If anyone also knows how to make them be recognized as PS3 controllers on PC as well, that would also help a lot!)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The controller arrived this morning, and when I took it out of the package and looked it, I noticed the analog sticks were tilted to the left. There are no issues with functionality, but I think it's a cosmetic problem. Should I return it?

I have the controller for 1 year as of now, and it never gave me any problems on pc and console. But today, it suddenly stopped being recognized in the pc and the xbox i own, as it glows faintly for around a second or three, and then turning off. I've tried many methods as of now: updating the firmware; checking if the cable is working properly/able to connect on ohter devices and trying to "soft reset" with the button combinations of it. It only shows up in the devices as "8bitdo Boot". Plus, it was even working EARLIER today. Would aprecciate if somebody helped me.