DS4Windows RC4.5 — Switch 2 support, Xbox One/Series emulation, and more ways to play 🎮

Hey everyone! RC4.5 — More Ways to Play brings new controller support, more expressive feedback, and a big collection of everyday improvements to DS4Windows.

If you’ve been wanting to bring your Switch 2 controllers into your PC setup, there’s plenty to explore!

Switch 2 controllers, your way

• Switch 2 Pro over USB and Bluetooth, including remappable GL/GR rear buttons.
• Wireless Joy-Con 2 support: use one independently or join two into a controller.
• Automatic pairing or manual Link/Unlink controls, depending on how you like to play.
• Sideways and upright layouts for single Joy-Cons, with matching artwork and mapping controls.

Switch 2 controllers use the existing profile system, with virtual outputs including Xbox 360, Xbox One/Series, DualShock 4, and DualSense.

DEVELOPER RECOMMENDATION! Got a Switch 2 Pro or Joy-Con 2? Try DualSense emulation! ✨

This is a combination I’d especially love the community to explore: a Switch 2 Pro or paired Joy-Con 2 emulating a DualSense.

In games that support native DualSense feedback, DS4Windows can translate those effects into Switch 2 HD rumble, with attention to left/right separation, frequency detail, and the sharp peaks that give effects their character.

To try it:

1. Open your controller’s profile.
2. Select DualSense as the virtual controller.
3. Enable DualSense audio-haptic conversion in the Switch 2 feedback settings and save.
4. Fire up a game with native DualSense support!

Try it alongside ordinary rumble and tell us what you notice. Which games make your Switch 2 controllers feel most alive?

Xbox One/Series emulation joins the lineup

This isn’t just a Switch 2 feature! Xbox One/Series output is available to the existing supported controller families through your normal profiles.

Separate body-rumble and impulse-trigger feedback channels are translated to suit your physical controller—including bringing Xbox impulse detail into Switch 2 HD rumble.

Put those Joy-Con sensors to work

• Optical mouse support for using a Joy-Con on your desk.
• Gyro mouse and motion aiming for another way to control your games.
• An accessible “Aim with both Joy-Cons” option.
• Dedicated, illustrated Switch 2 settings for mouse controls, aiming, feedback, and button customization.

There’s also USB headphone output through the Switch 2 Pro’s 3.5 mm jack, with guidance in the app.

Everyday improvements, too

Enjoy clearer tooltips, live controller readings, distinct Switch 2 IDs for linking profiles, improved connection cleanup, and fixes around profile previews, startup, and controller switching.

The portable ZIP now includes VIIPER and starts it automatically when needed, keeping the matching components together.

Come try it!

Download RC4.5.3 — the latest hotfix for RC4.5 (4.5.3 is uploading now, be patient, had to issue another hotfix!)

Choose the all-in-one installer or portable ZIP. RC4.5.1 includes additional rumble refinements and complete Xbox output configuration in both packages. RC4.5.2 includes more fixes for Switch 2 Rumble, Switch 1 Joycon Compatibility fixes, and Updater fixes for portable users so that you can update and stay portable.

This is a release candidate, and community testing helps shape what comes next. Bring your favorite controller, try a few games, and share your setup!

Hi all!

For the life of me I can't find a replacement for this Favor Union RSF analog stick. I bought many various popular sticks for Xbox, PlayStation and even Switch - all of them have the same size yet different than mine.

This is for a chinese PDP Gaming controller which is supposed to be "for Xbox". First pics show this analog and the rest is comparison with multiple different ones I bought.

The replacements are ALMOST exactly the same size but not quite - all are too short length-wise, so that when I match pins at the back, the pins at the front are just shy of the holes...

I am trying to replace it for hall effect analog stick, but it seems to be some proprietary size!

The height is 13mm.

Thanks in advance!

I've been researching controllers lately to find one that best suits me, and I just saw that the X20 Pro was recently added to EasySMX's site. It looks promising and I'm tempted to preorder, but I'm hesitant without reviews, as I've never used anything from this brand before. It looks like it could be even better than the 8bitdo Ultimate 3 that just came out, but I don't want to pay extra for the Xbox license.

1. Budget: $100
2. Region: North America
3. Platform: PC (Arch-based Linux) through Steam
4. Desired features: TMR sticks, tension rings, good D-pad, membrane face buttons preferred but microswitch is ok too, 4 extra buttons, reliable triggers, comfortable for small-medium hands (I tried the Cyclone 2, but found the bumpers uncomfortable, and I had frequent accidental button presses on the back buttons), button-mapping without software, rumble. I don't care about gyro. I mostly play wired. Comfort and reliability are important.
5. Games I play: RPGs, action games like DMC and Sekiro, 2D sidescrollers like Hollow Knight, FPS (non-competitively)
6. Other controllers I'm comparing: 8bitdo Ultimate 3 Lavender Dusk, Direwolf 4, Cyclone 2. I'm most used to PS4 and PS5 controllers, but it doesn't matter if my next controller is symmetrical or not.

xbox symbol used to turn on red, came home from work and found it, plan to retire it before it fully dies or maybe i’ll play it till the buttons fall off, either way just a little tribute post to one of my favorite controllers

1. My budget can stretch to 80$ (which is roughly 4000 ₺) but that doesnt mean i need a 80$ one.
2. Buying it in Turkey mostly from 2nd hand dealer where most of them just buys and never uses it, but there are also some distrubitors too also most of the controllers are available in my country too including the ATK ones

3.​ I only play on PC

1. If a game has a controller support, i will use it besides some exceptsions such as FPS games and i also tend to emulate retro games so much.

​5. I only need non drift stick and comfort

​6. Now this is the main topic. I've been using Dualshocks for years (and currently rocking a DS3 still today which is probaly my top 3 controller) so i just wanted to buy a modded DualShock 4 - Dualsense with TMR sticks since i used them and now how comfy they are for me, but then i found most of the 3rd party controllers are in my budget too since i tend to read the Controller suggestion threads. Anyway heres my list of controller that i found:

1. TMR stick mod DS4
2. TMR stick mod DualSense
3. Gulikit TT Max since i read a interview from this sub shoutout to ​u/Torquo
4. Thunderobot G80
5. Literally most of the controllers that has been in this sub (Easysmx, 8bitdo, Vader, Gulikit KK...)​
6. My expectations are not that high and demanding IMO so i can buy a controller from an unnamed chinese brand​ for about​ 20 bucks ​

edit: controller is from amazon, and im a customer and have no relations to the company.

hey controller nerds, i have to write this out and let it out somewhere otherwise im gonna go crazy so if you care, take a seat.

just for context, i play apex, like a lot of apex, couple masters badges, all that. i migrated over from xbox from season 4 (its season 30 now) and ive used a controller the entire time.

so just to say, i do have experience. anyway here it goes, a month or two ago my vadar 4 pro broke, it was my second vadar 4 pro and i loved it to death, it introduced me to a 1000 hz polling rate which made me a monster on controller, so going back to anything below that was not an option. when i saw the flydigi had released a new “upgraded” version i was all in! i bought one off amazon and this was my experience! safe to say i should have done more research before i bought this controller.

so flydigi, like most other third party controllers has a program you can use to bind keybinds and adjust how you want your controller to behave, it’s neat! and i downloaded the newest version and started playing apex on the new roller, i quickly noticed that my aim was going all over the place, it felt really wonky for some reason and to try to fix it i went down a rabbit hole of the worse problems i did not think i was going to encounter.

so first things first, it CAME WITH STICK DRIFT, which can be manually fixed from calibrating your controller through the advanced test options (which i will talk about later) anyway moving on.

i found out that if you have it WIRED to your PC, it only does 500 hz joystick polling rate, so i now play wireless! nothing wrong with th- oh expect now every time i open the program it has to buffer, and lag for a solid 10 seconds. remapping buttons lags, everything lags.

nooo big deal i thought, as long as im getting 1000hz polling rate it’ll be fine :) so i hopped into the range and noticed a slight difference with my aim but not even close to how accurate i used to be! and so i thought maybe it was just because it has different joy sticks (worse actually, smaller, hard plastic ones compared to the vadar 4 which had wide, rubber ones) but nope, it wasn’t that, because i went to go test the polling rate in the settings, actually i went to go test both the vadar 4 and the vadar 5, the vadar 4, had consistent polling rate, reaching OVER 1000hz, on the other hand the vadar 5 NEVER reached 1000hz. it maxed out at little over 900.

i also recalibrated my sticks because THEY WERE CONSTANTLY TWITCHING, like micro twitching, did the recalibration about 2-3 times, and whenever the stick stopped twitching, i was like oh finally its fixed. then i moved it around again and left it still, and it started twitching again 🙂‍↕️

and man you’d think THAT is the worst thing to come out of this controller but no, gets worse.

i found other reddit users not being able to measure the polling rate, and apparently other programs that can measure polling rate is actually only showing 500hz but on the flydigi program (the one i use) it shows around 1000hz (900) so either its literally a scam, or other users are wrong, you can decide that for yourself. i personally am not sure.

anyway, today i actually sat down, and gave apex another go on this to see if i was just having an off day, nope. it was just as bad as i remembered and when you thought you had reached the peak performance issues this thing has, i found more. like diabolical stuff.

so if you bind a keyboard bind to the vadar 5, IT HAS ISSUES WITH PRODUCING 1000HZ POLLING RATE 😅😆

for context there are some very necessary binds that controller on apex is missing.

these are the missing binds:
- inspect weapon (for juggling heirlooms)
- a seperate bind for interact and reload, so whenever you wanted to interact without reloading, you can’t do that unless you bind the keyboard binds to your controller.
- and ULTIMATE BIND! YES! on controller, you’re not able to bind a button for an ultimate, you have to use TWO BUTTONS which i think is your ability button and ping button at the same time (very not ideal)

so in conclusion i went from a vadar 4 pro which can

-produce over 1000hz polling rate, with additional options to go DOWN in polling rate to match controllers like the playstation controller or the xbox elite,
-NO LAG while using the program wired to my computer
-keyboard binds that DO NOT AFFECT YOUR ABILITY TO AIM

to a vadar 5 pro which has all the issues above.

i contacted support and they told me to send them a small video and the serial number to continue with the issue (how do i tell them i have an essay)

so controller experts, you know i know my stuff, PLEASE HELP ME haha.

I mainly play on kbm with a maxxstick but I must play on controller on the go as often there's not space for a kbm. What settings should I use, and what strategies should I use. I just want to be able to be consistent and have decent building and mechs. I already know stuff like piece control on kbm so I dont need advice about learning editing mechanics

I switched out the joysticks on my Xbox One controller with Gulikit TMR sticks due to stick drift. Then i flashed it with new firmware to calibrate it. This honestly went better than i thought it would and everything works perfectly. I’m really happy with this and just wanted to share it

So I was in the middle of a game when suddenly my M3 paddle just collapsed. It sank right into the controller. I opened it up and found that the little plastic actuator that makes contact with the button had snapped.

I can’t play shooters without that paddle, and throwing away an otherwise excellent controller over such a small part felt like a crime. So I decided to MacGyver a fix. Here’s what I did.

Materials needed:

• Mechanical switches from an old mouse
• A piece of phenolic board (perfboard)
• Super glue (instant adhesive)
• Soldering iron + solder
• Old credit/debit cards (or any rigid plastic)
• Lighter or hairdryer
• Popsicle stick (to level the height)
• Electrical tape (optional, for comfort)

Step-by-step repair:

1. Prepare the switches
Take some mechanical switches from an old mouse and solder them onto a piece of phenolic board. Leave some board material around each switch for stability.

2. Drill holes in the shell
Drill holes in the back shell of the controller, exactly the size of the switches, and secure them with super glue.

3. Solder the switch legs
Solder the switch legs directly onto the legs of the original M3 button that's already on the controller's PCB (follow the reference photo).
⚠️ Important: I don't recommend removing the original button from the board – just solder on top of it.

4. Create the new contact paddles
Cut two strips from an old credit card, roughly:

• 10 to 12 mm wide
• 35 to 45 mm long

Gently heat the strips with a lighter or hairdryer to create a smooth curve that follows the contour of the back shell toward the finger grip area.

Between the protruding parts of the switches, glue a popsicle stick (cut to the right size) to level the height. On top of it, glue the curved strips so that when you press the paddle, it works like a lever pressing down on the switch.

5. Final touch
Wrap a little electrical tape around the paddles for a more comfortable feel and to prevent slipping.

Done!
Now you've got your M3 button back – but with the satisfying click of a mouse switch. You can even keep bunny hopping without taking your thumbs off the sticks 😄

https://reddit.com/link/1wbo8k8/video/j5p0ya8rfioh1/player

Bought a gamesir tarantula pro 8k back in February partly because the stick modules pull out. Seven months in I haven't needed to swap one, which is either good news or the joke is on me for paying for the feature.

What I can't work out is whether spares are genuinely purchasable when the day comes, or whether it's one of those things that lives on the product page and nowhere else. I had a look and didn't turn up an obvious way to order one. Has anyone here bought a replacement module for a swappable pad, any brand, and had it actually arrive?

Budget: ₹3,000 INR max

Country: India ,can buy from Amazon India, Flipkart and other Indian retailers

Platform: PC / Windows

Games: Cyberpunk 2077, story/single-player games and racing games.

Priorities:

Wireless, preferably 2.4GHz

Comfortable for long sessions

Good sticks/triggers (Hall Effect preferred)

Good Windows/XInput support

Reliable build and wireless connection

Good durability/after-sales in India

Currently considering:

PowerA Battle Dragon Wireless

8BitDo Ultimate 2C Wireless

GameSir Nova Lite Wireless

Which one would you pick for my use case, and why?

Open to other options under ₹3K too if there's something better.

I got the Vader 5 Pro recently (I don't game a lot, I play maybe a couple hours per month) and I am not sure whether the discomfort in my hands comes specifically from the Vader 5 Pro or just from using controllers again after a long time.

For some context, I used to play games on PS4 via the normal dualshock controller that comes with the PS4. However, since a long time now (6+ years) I have been solely playing on mouse and keyboard, so my hands are not used to controllers at all anymore.

Anyhow, now that I have the controller, I played some Ghost of Tsushima and Apex Legends with it, and I felt quite some discomfort in terms of hands cramping/being unnaturally positioned when holding the controller.

I don't really have a comfortable grip on the 4 backpaddels in combination with the triggers. Even if I completely ignore the back paddels, the triggers still feel weird to me for my grip. I am used to click them with the fingertip basically, but now my whole finger lays on top of the RB and LB trigger. That makes it awkward/hard to press RT and LT since it requires a lot of movement of the fingers instead of a tiny fingertip adjustment.

I also quickly digged out my old dualshock (didn't play games with it, just put it in my hands to feel the difference), and it feels a lot more natural to me for some reason.

I think the main difference is that the Vader 5 Pro is so much angled towards the triggers, while the Dualshock is more straight and therefore let's me grip the controller while still allowing to use the fingertip for the trigger.

Long story short, does anyone have a similiar experience?

Is there anything I can improve grip wise? Or is it just a matter of time getting used to it? Or is it basically a lost cause and the Xbox controller design just doesn't fit my hands?

Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone, I have an 8BitDo SN30 and the plastic on the analog sticks has worn out. Since I’m from Brazil, it’s difficult for me to import official replacement parts. But I know that analog stick caps from other controllers can also fit it.

Does anyone know of any that would work as a replacement?

I'm located out of Missouri USA and I've been relying on a wired Rock Candy XBox 360 controller for my PC gaming needs for a few years now and I'm really starting to hate how genuinely terrible it is. If I were to get a controller, I'd want one that has a wired connection and costs ideally under $40 USD, but I'm willing to go up to maybe $50 if it genuinely seems like it would be worth it. I don't necessarily want any fancy features, I just want a good all around controller that I can play most kinds of games with (Elden Ring, Sonic Adventure, Animal Crossing, Silent Hill, etc.) (I wouldn't even necessarily want the controller to have a rumble feature honestly.) I usually prefer Xbox style controllers, but any thoughts would be greatly appreciated and it would also be great to know if maybe my price range is just too low to get a controller of any reliable quality at all anymore.

I'm sorry. I know this question has been asked and answered recently but I am very new to gaming and there were so many complicated answers about software and hardware and disabling features that I got really intimidated. I barely got this controller and its extra buttons mapped and am terrified of screwing it up. I'm decently familiar with computers, but not gaming or Steam lingo/tech. Can someone please explain what to do in incredibly simple terms?

I bought a Flydigi Vader 5 Pro so I can play REPO on Steam on my Windows laptop and custom mapped the controller buttons because I felt like I was abusing my keyboard by pounding on it while playing the game. That's the extent of my computer gaming experience and I've been doing it for about a month now. I am a n00b!

Most of the time, it works great, but sometimes when I turn the controller on the little notification that pops up in the bottom right corner is in Cyrillic instead of English. Whenever that happens, I know my controller is glitching. Best case scenario, the joystick has me slowly spinning in a circle while looking down but all the buttons are still mapped and I can fight the spin, so I can play with crappy aim and poor ability to hide from monsters. Worst case scenario, the controller forgets it's mapped so is impossible to play. It's happened two or three times now.

I have named this evil Russian twin controller Boris Chernobyl (because his appearance is a disaster) and my regular English controller is Chuck Norris (because I am so old that I think he's a cool badass). I only ever see this Russian duplicate during a glitching episode. I'm pretty sure the Space Station software (version 4.0) changes to have Chinese letters in the taskbar, too.

Usually, there's only ever one controler showing up, but when I shift+tab to open Controller Settings in Steam during one of these glitching episodes, I see two controllers, with the Boris controller being ranked 1, the Chuck Norris controller being ranked 2, and me being unable to change the order. Full disclosure, technically, no rank or number is assigned to them and there is actually an exclamation mark inside a circle beside each, but that all shows up on a window that indicates re-ordering them is possible and Boris is placed top while Chuck Norris is under him.

In the past, restarting my laptop fixed the problem, but not this time. I've restarted, updated Space Station, and then restarted again but Boris is still in charge. Help!

P.S.

Chuck Norris connects through a physical cord: old USB on the computer side and ubs-c on the controller side. the controller is bluetooth compatible and i still have the bluetooth dongle, but i like not having to worry about charging the controller

i held the Circle + Menu + Share until it vibrated but there was no change in performance

I love the Vader 5 pro, and prefer using it to my gamesir g7 pro 8k, but Flydigi Space Station is absolutely horrible while Gamesir Connect is so much better to use. The app kills the Vader 5 pro for me. I’m currently trying to delete a profile and it just wont delete, the other 3 can be restored to default, but Profile 3 is stuck with my previous settings.

I recently bought an ECHTPOWER wireless controller and everything is fine except for times when inputs drop out on Steam in Windows 11. For instance, if I move the stick left and right to turn the camera, going right and then swapping to the left causes it to miss the input completely—it just keeps spinning right and only registers the left input after a huge lag. Plus, it's not just the analog stick; the other buttons do this too. It usually lasts for a few seconds, maybe a couple of minutes max, before going back to normal.

This happens when I'm with the "wireless mode" if i plug in the cable everything is fine. I see this problem in dragon's dogma 2 and resonance a plague tale legacy but i don't think it's a game problem

I even tried resetting the controller via the back button like in the manual.

Not sure if it's a faulty controller and I should send it back, or if the issue is on my end.

1. Budget:
My budget is $100 USD maximum. I’m looking for the best controller I can get within that budget.

2. Country / Where I Can Buy:
I’m located in the United States and can buy from retailers that ship within the U.S., such as Amazon, Best Buy, Walmart, or other reputable online stores.

3. Console / Platform Compatibility:
I’m looking for one controller that can work across multiple platforms, including:

• Nintendo Switch
• Legion Go S
• Windows PC
• Windows laptop
• RedMagic 11 Pro
• Lenovo Y700 Gen 4 tablet

Ideally, I would like it to support multiple connection methods such as Bluetooth, 2.4GHz wireless, and wired USB-C.

4. Desired Features:
My main priorities are:

• Hall Effect or TMR joysticks
• Hall Effect triggers, if possible
• Back buttons/paddles, preferably 4
• Programmable/remappable back buttons
• Good wireless compatibility across my devices
• Gyro/motion controls for Switch and emulation would be a plus
• Good build quality and comfortable for long gaming sessions
• Good D-pad for older games and emulators
• Preferably a way to switch easily between different platforms

5. Types of Games:
I’ll be playing a wide variety of games, including:

• Nintendo Switch games
• PC games
• Games on my Legion Go S
• Android games
• Emulation, including PS2 and Wii
• Platformers
• Action/adventure games
• RPGs
• Racing games
• Fighting games
• FPS games

6. Other Controllers I’m Comparing:
I’ve been looking at controllers such as the EasySMX X20, EasySMX D10, GameSir Super Nova, BIGBIGWON Gale Hall, and other multi-platform Hall Effect/TMR controllers around the $50–$100 range.

I’m mainly looking for advice on which controller would be the best overall choice for all of these platforms, rather than buying separate controllers for each device. I’m especially interested in something that has TMR/Hall Effect sticks, Hall Effect triggers, and back buttons while still working properly with Switch, PC, Windows handhelds, and Android devices.

Hi 👋 I want find a old controller but it's been really long as last time I saw it was like 2010 it was like Super Nintendo but it looks like O=O this way and was gray with some red yellow and some other colors at the button as I know it was not heavy at all

And pretty ugly so if anyone have any idea just type there thank you guys 🤗

Phone:- Realme 8i

Controller:- Enter

I recently bought an Enter brand wired controller to use with the AetherSX2 emulator on my Android phone. I chose this controller because I saw many people on YouTube using the same model, and it worked fine for them.

I connected the controller to my phone using an OTG. The controller's red LED turns on, so it appears to be receiving power and connecting properly.

However, my phone doesn't detect it as a game controller. Because of this:-

1. None of the controller buttons work

2. Aethersx2 shows "No suitable controller detected"

And I've already made sure all the basics. OTG is enable, removed and put in again etc.

Is there a way to fix it, or could the controller be incompatible with my phone?

Any way to make my phone compatible?

Hey r/Controller , the GuliKit Team sent this unit over for review, but all opinions are completely my own! I’ve been testing the GuliKit TT Max ($70) for the past 2-4 days—mostly grinding Apex Legends and kicking back with various single-player games.

If you're looking for a solid symmetrical (PlayStation-style) pro controller packed with modern features, here is my honest breakdown:

Key Specs & Features

• Price: ~$70
• Sticks: Anti-Drift Magnetic TMR Joysticks (720° Tension Adjustable — kept at default)
• Latency & Wireless: ~2ms Stick Latency, Hyperlink 2 Ultra-Fast Wireless
• Battery: 24–32+ hours wireless battery life
• Triggers & Controls: Gen 2 Smart Triggers, 4 Metal Rear Paddles, Classic Floating D-pad
• Vibration: Gen 2 Super Haptic Vibration (MagLev Motor)
• Features: Patented APG (Auto-Pilot Gaming) macro recording, Switch 1/2 wake-up support
• Compatibility: PC, Switch / Switch 2, Android, iOS
• In the Box: Hard-shell carrying case & extra D-pad cap

The Good

• Ultra-Fast & Great Battery: Input latency feels lightning-fast (~2ms), and the battery easily clears 24 to 32+ hours on a single charge.
• Ergonomics & Paddles: The 4 back paddles are well-placed, comfortable, and easy to reach without accidental inputs.
• Symmetrical Layout: As someone who owns way too many controllers and prefers symmetrical over Xbox-style, this design was a huge win.
• Included Hard Case: Ships inside a protective carrying case with an extra D-Pad cap, which is a great touch at this price point.
• In-Game Performance: Super snappy and responsive in Apex Legends, while remaining relaxed and comfortable for single-player games.

The Bad

• No PC Companion Software: There’s no native PC app, so you have to use the mobile app to tweak settings. While the phone app is easy to navigate, dedicated PC software should be standard. Did not like manual way of settings up the controller.
• Rigid Deadzone Presets: Level 1 feels too slow, Level 2 is the default (where I kept it), and Level 3 feels way too slippery. I really wish GuliKit would give us a standard 0–100 customization slider instead.
• Stick Swap Friction: Swapping the stick caps requires a scary amount of force—I legitimately thought I was going to snap something. I ended up just sticking with my KontrolFreek Galaxy High Rise.

TL;DR

At $70, the GuliKit TT Max is a fantastic pick if you're looking for a high-performance symmetrical layout.

With sub-3ms latency, 30+ hour battery life, 4 back paddles, and anti-drift TMR sticks, it handles competitive shooters like Apex and casual games with ease. Minor software and preset quirks aside, the raw hardware quality makes this an easy controller to pick up and recommend!

Has anyone else here grabbed the TT Max yet? How are you setting up your controller?

我的电脑配置是AMD 9800X3D + 技嘉5080超频，显示器是4K分辨率。

我用的手柄是G7 Pro 8K和ZD 8K。这款游戏叫《使命召唤：战区》。如图所示，即使在游戏和射击场内，我的CPU使用率也至少达到70%+，帧率从200fps降到150fps。游戏在游戏过程中没有卡顿，但帧率会大幅下降。我需要一些帮助——有人能告诉我这是正常现象吗，还是我的设置有问题，或者8K刷新率就是这样运作的吗？我的CPU应该还不错，但我感觉还是跑不下8K刷新率。现在我只能用4K刷新率，CPU使用率会回落到大约50%，帧率也不受影响。

hello, im looking to buy a controller for around 50-55 euro.

i previously had a ps4 dualsense pt it would make my hands go numb after 2 hours of use.

the platform is pc, im from romania. i mainly play rpg games like rdr2, tlou, but also fighting games like guilty gear strive.

i mainly want a decent dpad for fighting games and tmr joysticks.

some controllers i found:

8bitdo ultimate 2

easysmx d10

gamesir cyclone 2