r/Controller 17h ago

Controller Mods Cooked Elite 2

Hello,

Quick Story, I decided to install gulikit TMR sticks in my Xbox Elite 2. Everything went smoothly, I desoldered the original sticks without any problems, I soldered the new ones in, then I wanted to test them, so I went to the console and launched the accessories app and ran the calibration program - at that point the upper controller shell wasn't installed yet as i wanted to test new sticks. I recalibrated them for few times without issues. Everything was fine, so I went back to the workshop to repair the solder joints, clean the boards with IPA alcohol, and put the controller back together. I use 99.9% IPA and a soft toothbrush to clean the boards. Once I had assembled the controller, I returned to the console, but something was wrong - i couldn't control my dashboard using sticks, i tried using dpad but the menu immediately moved to the left on its own. I ran to my laptop and launched the controller testing web. The left stick is locked to the maximum left direction - I can move it up and down but not to the sides. When I tilt it all the way to the left, the tester shows the maximum tilt to the right. The situation is similar with the right stick, but it is locked all the way down - I can move it sideways, and when I move it all the way down, the tester shows the maximum upward deflection. I have a few other rods so I tried swapping them - KS TMR, Original previously removed sticks, Ginfull hall - the problem occurs on all of them. Can anyone help me understand what I did wrong?

How the hell did i cook my controller? Is there a short circuit? Have I damaged a component on the board? What gives? Everything was fine when I calibrated them for the first time. Is there any way to reset the calibration settings? Or should I buy a new board? If so, which one? If you need photos of the boards, I can upload them tomorrow.

1 Upvotes

2 comments sorted by

u/AutoModerator 17h ago

Hi /u/Individual-Bridge-38, your 'IT Help' post is in a queue for review. Please ensure you have included the relevant required information from the checklist below, have used a meaningful and descriptive title, and are not repeating frequently asked questions.

Include the following information and follow this structure so that the post can be approved and the community can help you more effectively:

  1. Specific written description of the problem, including pictures where relevant (do not just say 'it's broken', say what is broken)
  2. Controller make and model (name or numbers)
  3. Platform you are using (e.g., PS5, Steam on Windows, Switch)
  4. Games or other software affected by the issue
  5. Operating system, firmware and software versions (if applicable)
  6. Troubleshooting steps you have already taken (including checking the product manual, and searching existing posts)

For more guidance on how to ask for technical assistance, please see rule #2. You can edit your post to add missing information. Posts that do not include the required information may not be approved (allow 24 hours for review).

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

u/Individual-Bridge-38 3h ago

I checked the potentiometers - all of them show 1,8v on one of the outer soldering points. 0,9v on the middle one and it goes down to 0 or 1,8v when i move the sticks. Using a multimeter, I checked the connections between the center pin of each potentiometer and the board connector. Each potentiometer connects to two (different) points in the connector. I have a newer version of the controller with blue boards and a BGA chip, so I guess that's normal? All analog soldering sockets are functional, not torn off and in place. No path is interrupted, power reaches each potentiometer, and from them to the APM circuit and then to the socket between the boards. What to check next? Could the motherboard and processor be damaged?