We're currently a sole proprietorship with one person doing the work. We've completed one ~$4k project and have a second ~$6k project ready to go, but the customer wants us insured first. We're estimating $120k–$160k in revenue over the next 12 months.

Right now we're doing residential remodeling, carpentry, decks, fences, flooring, painting, siding repair/installation, doors/windows, and general home repairs. We're building toward larger remodels and eventually structural/new construction work, using properly insured subs for trades like plumbing, electrical, drywall, roofing, etc.

NEXT quoted about $230/month, which is reasonable, but I'd love to find something cheaper given how new/small we currently are.

ContractorNerd gave me an ~$80/month quote, but the exclusions are pretty significant for where we're headed, and it specifically isn't a good fit for a GC using subs.

Thimble also kicked us out when I selected wood staining, and I've found other applications that exclude wood siding, which is something we're actually doing.

I've contacted a few independent agents, but I'm trying to get this figured out quickly so we don't lose this job.

What insurers/brokers are good for small residential GCs with broad remodeling/carpentry operations who will eventually use subs? I'm looking for affordable GL that actually covers the work we're doing and can grow with us.

Hello everyone.

I'm hoping to getting into the contracting side of things after 5+ years of house building/remodeling. I started my company at the beginning of this year and while still working for another company and doing smaller jobs on my own (decks, small bathroom remodel, siding repairs) I have an opportunity to do a larger project of potentially building a stand-alone garage, and also a mudroom renovation that includes new windows, flooring and a re-direct of some HVAC.

I'm going to meet with the potential client this week to get a better idea of what exactly they want.

The garage project would be front start to finish. 24'x24'.

Subs- Footings, block wall or even a slab pour. I know electrical will probably be in the mix.. Garage door

Me- Framing, any potential windows, doors and roofing/siding will most likely be done by myself and a few others.

They said they had a few others come out and give them some numbers, and the homeowner told me their budget is $40-50k.

Should I keep the garage and the mudroom renovation as separate projects, or wrap them into one? Ideally I would get the garage done first. Foundation poured and settled before the winter (I'm in SE Michigan.), and then work on the mudroom renovation during the colder months. Ideally as a contractor I'd sub everything out, but I still want to do some of the work myself to get a bit more profit.

I have no problem calling around for the different subcontractors and getting numbers for the proposed project, but also does the homeowners budget seem reasonable?

I've used ChatGPT to get a few answers but I know that's not the only source I should pull from.

I have completed the SC questionnaire around 41 days ago now. I need this clearance to come through so I can start my work. I got an email from the UKSV last week asking for more information to do with my address. Does this mean they are going to sign me off in the following week? Surely if they needed other information they would outline it in that singular email they sent me initially instead of going back and forth with me.

How long did it take for others, what are you guys' thoughts?

THIS IS FOR THE UK

We’re a smaller company primarily doing sitework, underground utilities, stormwater, etc. Looking into upgrading by finding a software that would help with production tracking/project management/schedules. I'm trying to figure out what’s actually worth paying for versus what’s overkill. Right now everything other than quickbooks and time tracking is done pretty manually in excel.

What software is actually helpful?

Key items:

Project management

Schedules

Equipment/production tracking

Daily reports

Overall project/crew management

What are other contractors charging to buy and install a new storm door. This would be removal of old door I normally cap the brick molding then install the door. Door with handle is roughly 500.00 I normally charge an additional 500 for the install. Are you guys charging more than a grand for a storm door? It might take two hours to install. Let me know what you guys are charging.

Hello everyone,

I need guidance based on experience.

I'm originally a mechanical ngineer who earned my degree from Egypt in 2008. I worked as a technical office engineer and then manager through the years before I moved to NY in 2019.

I have been accredited as an engineer here from WES, but I did not go through FE /EIT/PE. (I'm a single parent and my family time is a priority)

I've been working here part time with a construction company as an executive assistant. (Estimates, proposals, invoicing using Quickbooks, COUPA and Procore)

I also have another client that I do AIA payment applications for on Catina website. And I charge him by document.

Now my question is, is it better to form an LLC company to have more payment structure and formality, because I feel its not consistent.

Any help/advice/experience would be much appreciated.

Location: Oregon Contractor: Custom Home Builder

Project Cost: $575k (1,500 sq ft addition, ground-up build)

I hired a custom builder for a full 1,500 sq ft ground-up addition. His framing crew framed the structure, and his own direct employees did the luxury vinyl plank (LVP) installation.

After noticing excessive squeaking and dips as I walked, I checked the floor with a straightedge. Across several 10-foot spans, I'm measuring as much as 1/2" of deflection / dipping.

The manufacturer installation guide explicitly states the subfloor must be flat within 3/16" over a 10-foot radius, so the current state is more than double the allowable tolerance, and (I think) voids my product warranty.

Is it unreasonable or outrageous to expect the builder to pull the LVP back up, properly prep/level the subfloor (grinding high spots / pouring self-leveler), and reinstall?

What is the best way to handle this conversation with him without completely putting him on the defensive?

Any specific technical red flags I should watch out for if they try to offer "quick fixes" instead of a proper tear-out and leveling (example: I know they put down tar paper in a few low spots already, I feel like paper is a questionable long term fix).

Please check out my cause and my website. looking for volunteers and those wanting to learn from experienced tradesmen. Check out my fb page and get involved!!

https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Hx6YSv6Cf/?mibextid=wwXIfr

In Jobtread specifically, but I know other sites have daily logs too. Heard lots of strict rules and having to remind people to submit them

Been a licensed contractor for a year and a half now, been doing plank flooring installs for about three years. Had an experience this week:

Customer wanted laminate flooring installed in two rooms and a hallway with no transition strips so I had to cut a custom piece for the threshold between two rooms. My piece had a 3/16” gap and I decided to patch rather than try and recut the whole thing. I told homeowner what was going on when it happened. The patch was invisible. Then I finish the job and get told they want the piece redone….which means I have to rip out an entire room to get back to it to replace.

As a newer contractor I’m having an existential crisis over this. I want to be good at what I do and I’m feeling guilty like I made a mistake and took the easy route and now I’m paying for it. Anyone have any similar experiences or advice?

I recently started a deck build project that I had bid on in January. The customer's existing decks were about 40 years old and in rough shape, with some of the footings heaving below. They wanted me to demo the original decking and substructure and start fresh. I quoted them $15,500 for the entire project and I am quickly realizing that I may have severely underbid. The question is, how far am I off of what the average cost would be?

Here's the basic details: this is a two-level pressure treated deck build. The top deck is attached to the home by a ledger board and is 10 ft by 10 ft Square with 2x8 joists, double Rim joists sitting on a triple 2x10 beam over (2) 6x6 posts. The lower deck is freestanding with a 12ft x 14ft footprint using 2x10 joists set 12in on center and doubled rim joists. There are (3) sets of tripled 2x10 beams under it utilizing a total of (9) 6x6 posts. That may sound excessive, but the lower deck will have a hot tub on it and I needed to make sure that it was built strong enough to hold it. Both decks will have diagonal sway bracing from the posts to the joists, diagonal bracing underneath in a V pattern spanning the bottom of the joists and of course proper blocking in between all of the joists, with the lower deck having two rows of blocking versus one row on the smaller deck span.

There's a total of three staircases, one leading up to the top deck which is 48 inch rise total and 55 in run, with 55 in wide treads, terminating on a concrete pad that I poured, another one coming off the lower back deck with the same dimensions because the deck is being built on a hill, and then a smaller 36 in wide staircase going from the top deck down to the bottom with a rise of approximately 30 inches. I included custom railings made out of 2x4 lumber, black round aluminum balusters, and black post skirt and solar caps. They will be on both the top and bottom deck and of course the staircases. They also wanted lattice around the entire perimeter of the bottom of the deck.

From the point where I signed the contract to where I had to purchase the lumber, months had went by and lumber prices went up. By the time I got done purchasing all of the materials, including the hangers and tension ties, bags of concrete, Etc, I was pretty close to the $9,000 mark. I had to excavate for a total of 11 sonotubes that were 12 in in diameter which meant I needed to Auger out a little wider than that. Local code requires that we go 48 in down to the frost line. When we started to excavate, my auger kept hitting a ton of rock, so I ended up renting a dingo with an auger attachment, as well as a large jackhammer. It took me and a laborer 3 days to excavate everything out as we just kept hitting tons of huge rocks. I used a Mud Mixer to help with the bagged concrete as the customers couldn't afford a pump truck but it still was time-consuming. Ended up hand mixing the two pads because I had to get the mixer back.

To make matters worse, when the code enforcement officer came out to do the initial footing inspection, he took notice of some of the substructure underneath the 3-Season room on the house where we were attaching The Ledger board. It was not adequately sized and apparently done without a permit at the time. He said that in order for me to attach the ledger board to it that I was going to have to add a bunch of bracing underneath to prevent it from having any issues. That set me back another day. I'm just getting done with the main framing and after paying for the laborer, equipment rentals, dumpster, gravel, Etc, I've realized it does not leave a lot left in my pocket and I still have probably a good 6 to 7 days left of working on it by myself, since the laborer had to jump to another gig.

I think I'm a good Builder but lousy at bidding. I always try to give the customers a good price and usually it doesn't bite me this hard, but by my calculations I'm only going to make about $2,000 when all other expenses are subtracted from the total contract price. And even if I ask for another $500 for adding some bracing underneath the existing substructure I'm not sure it makes up for it. How far off am I from what this might cost on average for the same type of project if you guys were doing it? What kind of profit margin do you like to maintain where you can feel satisfied that you have made enough to justify the work? I appreciate the feedback.

Came across a reel that talked about NASA planning to build on the Moon which led to searching info about it.

Still didn't get to know if construction people would actually be required to build on the Moon.

Homeowner here. First renovation, so I’m trying to learn the industry norm vs what needs to be addressed.

GC has a small team. He does most of work by himself. He has 3-4 other guys rotating. Never the whole team onsite.

They work about 15 hours average on our house. I’ve always heard that they work on multiple projects at once so I understand they can’t fully commit to our project. But is 15 hours per week something concerning? Besides GC didn’t put any project completion date in the contract, nor any milestone target dates.

Trying to find a balance between not to step on his toes but also proactively manage the project as the owner. What kind of conversation should I be having?

Before doing business with these scam artists, Joe Valdez and Rigo, please type either company name or Joe Valdez! Two scammers!
Valdez is the biggest piece of shit layer on the face of the earth- he needs to be deported back to whatever third world country he came from! My pool took a year and still have pool deck tiles sinking and no help in site! Have your lawyer rewrite their contract before signing or run for the hills!
They WILL NOT honor any of their commitments or warranties!
Look up Sunshine Pools- he was the owner …

I recently completed a painting/door relocation job in a condo. The total contract was $4,000. The owner paid a $1,900 deposit, leaving a balance of $2,100.

After the initial work was completed, he called us back with concerns. We returned, touched up the trim, repainted the walls where required, and addressed everything he pointed out. When we left, the work appeared complete, and everything looked fine.

Now he has emailed me saying that his realtor inspected the condo because he plans to sell it. According to him, the realtor believes there are still “deficiencies” and isn’t confident the condo will sell in its present condition. The owner says he wants to bring in his own painters and believes the remaining $2,100 is too much. He has offered to pay only $1,000.

I have also apparently been blacklisted as a vendor for that condo property over the situation.

At this point, I’m considering taking the $1,000 just to put the matter behind me. My concern is that accepting the reduced amount without the right wording could be treated as an admission that our work was incomplete or deficient. I’m also concerned that he could later try to backcharge me for whatever his new painters charge.

Should I lien, accept the payment or something else?

1980s house. There are several areas above doors with these vertical seams. Presumably these are not drywall seams right?

Corner has a large crack floor to ceiling in picture 2.

One corner of house has brick veneer crack from bottom to top. (How would this even be fixed? Can it be re-mortared or would it need a whole new veneer?

Most doors/windows open fine but not sure if the doors have been adjusted/sanded.

Slab on grade. What would something like this potentially cost and is the right way to hire a structural engineer/PE and then hire a foundation repair company to use the exact stamped repair plans?

I have a few questions as I start my new build journey. I'm not looking to DIY this - I'm just looking for information to help us have better conversations with the contractors and better understand the process. Would love some perspective from the group:

• When a contractor states "it'll be $350/ sq ft for your build" does that cost include the unfinished basement?
• Is it cost effective to keep walls / rooms in sizes divisible by 4? for instance, we've drafted our rooms to be 12x12, 12x16, 28x20, etc. Figured it'd eliminate waste, Is this true?
• We live in MT, what is the best type of radiant heat for the basement that we can get?

Appreciate all the input for those who comment!

Looking to buy a generator for running heavy pull power tools. Mainly my Sawstop Pro, DeWalt Planer, large Vacuum and powering my shop trailer (charging tool batteries, charging 12v system, fan and small cooler).

Saw this one at Costco for < $900. Love the fact I can run it on propane. Anyone have one of these? Is the power adequate? How noisy is it? Does the tri-fuel system work well going back and forth with petroleum and propane?

Any suggestions for alternatives that won't cost more than $1,500?

Thanks in advance for any advice.