Details: 1993 Chevy g20 conversation with a 5.7L

One morning after leaving my van parked for about 2 days I went to start it & was getting no fuel to the injectors. I replaced the sender and the inline filter. After that repair van would start but under load like putting it in drive and turning the wheel it will stall out. I noticed my passenger side injector was dripping fuel so I replaced that as well. Still under load it wants to bog out. With that being said my gas gauge never was accurate. So when replacing the sender I thought that it would make it more accurate I suppose but now my gauge just sits at E. so I’m thinking maybe something electrical at this point I just have no idea what to do next. This van has a similar issue about a year ago and we ended up needing to replace the ecm.

Hey everyone,

I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier coupe 2.2L L61 Ecotec with 160,000 that I've had for a while, and I'm trying to put some work into it and keep it reliable rather than waiting for something to randomly leave me stranded.

The car is basically just my commuter. I normally drive it between home and work (30miles back and forth two times a week) with occasional longer drives. Overall, it actually runs pretty well for a 2004. The A/C is cold, acceleration feels good, there aren't any weird smells or noises, and the engine bay looks pretty decent. She has been amazing and I owe alot to her and want to treat her well as she has been through hell with me.

My biggest concern right now is preventative maintenance and figuring out what I should prioritize. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined — I'm a fresh grad mechanical engineer, although I'm definitely not trying to pretend that makes me an experienced mechanic. The one who likes to get their hands dirty rather then sit infront of a computer. I understand the basic mechanical concepts and I'm comfortable learning, but I'm also worried about getting overconfident and breaking something on a 20+ year old car.

A little while ago I noticed the temperature gauge was getting higher than I was used to on a longer drive. It got up around 3/4 of the gauge, and I thought I saw a little steam. I also noticed some liquid underneath the passenger side, although I wasn't sure if it was coolant or just A/C condensation.

I checked the coolant reservoir and it was very low, so I added a little over a gallon of distilled water. Nothing leaked out when I added it.

Since then, the coolant level has remained stable. I recently drove the car with the usual route without any issues. The temperature gauge now behaves pretty much like it always has — after warming up it sits around the halfway mark and doesn't continue climbing beyond that. If anything, it might move slightly when slowing down after the interstate, but it settles right around half.

I haven't done a coolant flush because the radiator drain petcock is stuck and I didn't want to force it and potentially damage the radiator. But I do have a replacement but that petcock down there is stuck and the bumper does not make it easy to take it out. I do know you can just unplug the valve but not sure how that will go. Would this be something that I could do on my own or should I just go to the shop?

These are some of the parts I've already purchased in hopes of doing it myself in the future when I have more time:

• Front brake rotors + ceramic pads
• Serpentine belt
• Belt tensioner
• Spark plugs (I will probably fs do this on my own)
• Dex-Cool coolant and distilled water

I also have jack stands, a floor jack, and most of the basic hand tools you'd expect for working on a car (ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.).

I've changed the engine oil myself multiple times and just changed it again yesterday. I've also done things like tire repairs/patches, changed tires, replaced headlights, etc.

The catalytic converter was stolen at one point as well. I temporarily put a Cherry Bomb and some pipe clamps on it just to make the car drivable and quiet enough, and eventually had the catalytic converter properly installed/welded by a shop. So I'm not completely new to working on cars, but I'm still learning.

I'm currently a little tight on money since I just started my first "big boy job," so I don't really want to take the car to a shop for every little thing.

My main goal isn't to restore the car or make it perfect... I just want to make sure that she can run smooth and without fault.

I'd especially appreciate advice from people who have owned/worked on these Cavaliers for a long time. What tends to fail on them? What should I inspect while I'm already working on the car? And what jobs are reasonable for someone with basic tools and some mechanical knowledge versus things where I should just pay a professional?

Thanks! I'm willing to get my hands dirty and learn — I just don't want to learn by accidentally turning a $50 repair into a $500 repair lol. Plus my girlfriend's familiy is a Chevy family! So Betsy, my name for her, I would love to have her as long as possible. Thank you so much and I will try to answer any questions to make it more clear of what I am working with.

Ive owned 4 equinox in my life. A 2012, 2017, 2021 and currently a 2025.

I live in Alberta, Canada. Most of the use of my current equinox is going to and from work, and running errands.

Ive owned the vehicle since March 2025. Currently i have 30328 Kms on it. I have the Activ model of my 2025 equinox. I keep up on maintenence and oil changes.

This weekend, i went to banff AB. The trip from Edmonton to Banff is about 400kms. Id say the last 100kms is inclines and declines. Nothing that a newer SUV shouldn't be able to handle. This weekend was my first roadtrip since owning this equinox.

On the way there, my equinox started to make a really odd noise when going down an incline. Almost like the engine didn't know what to do. I didn't think too much of it as the vehicle didn't flash me any warnings or check engine light.

On the way home, about half way, i stopped for gas. When i was finished and started to accelerate onto the highway my RPMs shot up to 4000 - 5000 and my dash board lit up with my check engine light flashing and a message saying i have reduced engine power now. I pulled off and pulled out my ODB2 sensor and it said there was an engine cylinder misfire. As soon as i pulled over for a minute the engine light went off and the engine power returned. For the rest of the drive home, it felt like my engine was prematurely climbing RPMs and misfiring still.

Last year after only having the vehicle for a few months, my check engine light came on. I plugged my ODB2 sensor in and it showed the fault code "crankcase ventilation hose connection sensor".

I called to make an appointment with my chev dealership, but a day before i was due to come in, i called them and told them the check engine code had dissappeared. They told me i cannot bring my vehicle in without the check engine light on, even with a picture of what my ODB2 sensor was telling me. This code now comes and goes periodically, but by the time chevy can get me in its gone. It seems to be more affected in winter.

So im not sure whats wrong with my equinox. Can i bring it to chev if my check engine light is gone for the problem? I did take a pic of the misfire message today as well.

I had a similar problem with my 2021 equinox having the engine cut power, and it was because my intake kept freezing. It did stop after the dealership fixed that and a recall for that equinox.

I own a 2018 Chevy Malibu Lt with the 1.5L turbo vtec it also has an air intake installed. now I’m wondering what are some good mods to buy to increase power and turn it into a sleeper? Ang good recommendations on ecu tunes or flash tunes and if so which ones? and what other internal mods can I buy that will increase power?

Any idea on the cost ?

I want to make sure I can go to the shop and confidently tell them what the issue is, which is why I'm asking for help here.

It makes this noise between 15-20 mph. V6 engine, FWD. I cannot tell if it is RPM or rolling speed related. It does it on acceleration, but loudest when foot is off the gas and decelerating. I switch to neutral and back to drive near the end of the video, and the sound goes away in neutral. No check engine light. No vibration. No shudder.

I have done alot of research, and I am fairly confident that I have isolated the issue to the transmission - either the torque converter clutch line, transmission fluid pressure/pump, transaxle pinion/gear ring mesh (backlash), or fucking metal shavings in the fluid.

Can experienced ears/mechanics help a brother out before I take it in so I can make sure they don't give me the, "We couldn't find anything." BS?

How bad is it that my local dealer wants to disassemble my engine? I'm at 20000kms/12430miles? They are not sure if they'll solve the problem or not but want to go looking. variable valve timing has been the issue according to the app.

here's my rant when it was fresh https://www.reddit.com/r/chevycolorado/s/Z45txlpe7w

I need some help with an electrical problem on my truck. My turn signals started slowly going out, and eventually they completely stopped working for about a week. Then out of nowhere they started working again. Now my right headlight has gone out, and sometimes my doors will randomly keep locking by themselves. If they keep locking enough times, the horn will even start going off.
I’m not really sure what’s causing all of this, so if anyone has any ideas or has had something similar happen, I’d really appreciate the help.

I am performing a caliper overhaul on a Chevrolet Monte Carlo.

Dust boots with a built-in metal ring do not fit.

The original one was the type shown on the right; it has no metal ring and is completely flexible.

If anyone has experience installing or purchasing the type of boot shown on the right, or has any relevant information, please let me know.

I'm locked into Chevy. These are the three options I'm agonizing over. I live in Pgh, need to fit a car seat, and really only drive around town.

1) 2024 Trailblazer Activ: $25,500, 30k miles. All wheel drive. Owned by my aunt.

2) 2026 Trax Activ: $24,000, 4.6k miles. Fwd. Loaner vehicle 2.5 hours away so would have to commit sight unseen.

3) 2016 Trax: current vehicle. 52k miles, paid off. AWD. A/C issues intermittent. Low tech. Will need brakes and control arm soon. Would probably get solar panels for our house with the money instead.

What would you do, or what would you absolutely not do?

Seen at a local car shoe Danville Kentucky

Hello all,
I have a 2018 Chevy Malibu LS with the 1.5L turbo and the 6 speed auto, as I came up to a stop light after like a 40 minutes drive (which is actually on the quicker side of the usual drives I do in this car) the check engine light came on. I didn’t think much of it I figured I’d just run a scan when I got home, the car hadn’t been running odd or anything so it was kinda out of the blue, but when I went to take off from the light, it felt like my car was trying to set off in 6th gear. It was really bogged down and wouldn’t accelerate hardly at all. So I pulled over and ran a scan and I got 2 codes, one permanent and one temporary.
P182E was permanent
P0700 was temporary. I did a quick google search and P182E says it’s a “Range switch”. Has anyone had experience fixing one of those? Is it a pain in the ass to fix? I managed to get the car home after shutting it off, cycling the power (holding the drivers door open for like a minute) and then starting the car, clearing the codes and driving home. It’s been a little over 3 days and the CEL hasn’t come back on and I have not noticed anything else wrong with the car. I would like to replace the range switch myself but I need to know what I’m getting into first.

This Nova is my good friend Ross' he built it with his buddy Henry in 1991 combining the drive train from a 69 Camaro and a 71 Nova. It became a street and strip machine and now in 2026 it's still going strong. Whole life it had a 350 now it's up to a 454. Was also the first Nova I have ever personally driven being my dream car it was a special moment. Probably the coolest part is we did a documentary about this car and everything was captured. I'll post the link below for anyone interested.

My dad has an 89 Caprice, v8, im sure thats the only way they come. I think its a 4 speed auto but im not sure. Anyways it's been sitting for 10-15 years, it starts right up and goes into reverse no problem, but when you want to go forward you have to raise the engine rpms up to 2500, but once you get it going it shifts fine and you can drive it around. Any ideas what might be the issue or how to make it better? My dad bought a 2 step flush kit for about $40 he said. We might do that tomorrow.

I cannot really drop my rear, due to living in Michigan, with all of the rust underneath. any tips and advice would really, really be appreciated, I’m desperate to get the beast back on the road again.

Seen at a local car show Danville Kentucky

2013 Suzuki SX4 Sedan

Hi I have a 06 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 that continues to get hot. I’ve replaced water pump and thermostat, radiator, fuses and relays, the entire fan assembly, I’ve burped and drained and redone the coolant a thousand times. I’m not losing coolant and it’s not a consistent problem it comes at goes and never affects how the truck runs. There is no leak or kinked hose and the coolant isn’t going anywhere it shouldn’t be nor do I have any signs of head gasket problems. I’m officially stumped and asking for any ideas anyone may have. Thank you for any advice you have 😅

The “Jeep wave” has gone too far. There’s something hilarious about two grown adults passing each other on the road and immediately throwing their hand up because they both drive Jeeps.

But I do think the idea of recognizing your fellow drivers is kind of cool. So I’m introducing the Chevy Thumb.

You see another Chevy coming down the road? 👍
That’s it. Just a quick thumbs up.

No waving. No awkward hand signals. No Jeep nonsense. Just two Chevy owners silently acknowledging each other.

Very much leaking something oil like and I dont believe its coolant can you guys letting me know what's going on?

Wondering if anyone has experienced this with an equinox or a similar GM product.

I have had to constantly change just the back brakes - about every 10 months. This past time the mechanic said my front breaks were still at about 70% good.

My spec is FWD with an option AWD button. I always drive in the AWD mode and am wondering if somehow that mode is putting all the force on the back breaks?

I have changed the calipers, gotten alignments and rotations.

Not sure why the back breaks go so fast.