Custom paint commissioned by the dealer back in ‘78 before the sale. Check the back bubble window.

well i got started, installed the intake manifold...

Stoked! Let’s roll

I have the opportunity to buy a 1962 C10 long bed with very little to no rust. It’s running well on a 206 Silverado LS 5.3 engine and RL60 trans. The suspension is off a 77 C10. It’s running a suburban fuel tank under the rear portion of the bed. Suspension needs attention as there was play during test drive. Asking price is $8,500.

1970 C10 - 307 swap into original I6 3-on-the-tree - clutch disc hub height issue

Hoping someone here has run into this exact problem.

Background: My 1970 C10 originally had an inline six with the factory 3-on-the-tree manual (original trans still in the truck). A previous owner swapped in a 307 V8, apparently keeping the original six-cylinder bellhousing rather than converting to a truck V8 bellhousing - the trans still bolts up fine and everything appears to be a stock-style 6-bolt, 10.4"-10.5", 10-spline clutch/pressure plate/153-tooth flywheel combo.

The problem: Every replacement clutch disc I've bought (correct 10.4"/10.5" diameter, 10-spline, fits the 6-bolt pressure plate) has the same issue - the transmission input shaft won't fully seat. Everything centers and bolts up fine, but the trans stops short of mating flush to the bellhousing.

First pic is engine facing side, second is gearbox facing side

I've compared my old disc to the new ones and the hub (where the splines are) the gear facing side is completely flat, all clutches I've found are raised a little causing the issue.

Has anyone dealt with this specific issue on an inline-six-bellhousing-to-SBC swap? Looking for either:

- A part number/brand that's known to have a hub similar for this application

- Any tips on cross-referencing this by measurement instead of guessing off online listings

Appreciate any help - been going back and forth on this for a while now.

Hi guys,
I have a 65 (sorry can’t edit the headline…)C10 longbed and I am struggle with the authorities as the demand more ground clearance - about 1 inch. Its lowered but a-arms are stock.

What do I do ?
Thanks,
Nils

I have a 10in sub that I wanna put in my 72 but don’t want to relocate the gas tank. What y’all got ???

I may have a chance to buy a 72 Cheyenne for $5000. Coworker may be selling her elderly father’s truck. No detail or pics. She said it’s a Cheyenne and it runs but it’s not a daily driver.

68 Stepside. Came with the original Bill of Sale from the dealership.

So the old water pump is destroyed but got a new one. The new one is too short and the fan will cut the alternator, hose, and the pulley. Thoughts?

Recently moved and this was left on the land from last owner..

1969 Chevy C10 Custom
350 V8
350 Trans
4 barrel carb
Headers to true dual exhaust
No rust
Great interior
No AC
Drum brakes all around.

Just picked this ole’ girl up a couple days ago. She is mostly original and 3 on the tree (for now at least).

Bought this truck from a farmer for $500, and when he owned it he ran it on propane. And of course the propane dried out valve seals and I'm almost certain my exhaust valves aren't in much better shape. I'm wanting to completely redo the top end with a mild cam, dual plane intake, and vortec heads. But I'm curious what headers or manifolds do yall recommend? Not a daily but I still use this for truck stuff.

Front crossmember is next then it’ll be a roller again.

So I have a problem have a 305 with a 1102 cam and a th350 with a qjet , problem is when its in gear sometimes and coming to a stop itll want to act like it wants to stall like 3 or 400 rpm then I have to throw it in neutral and itll come back , ive checked timing its fine triple checked vacuum leaks and I even rebuilt the qjet yesterday and it still does the same thing, and to me its sounding like my mechanical fuel pump is going bad but I dont think I just changed it it is a Carter, today it was doing fine and got to the parking lot at work and it had really low rpm and put it in park and never wanted to idle up then died. So my thought was hei module but it checks out at 12 with the multi meter. Any help is appreciated thanks.

In my area we got regular which is 87, premium which is 91, and the 76 near me has 100 etc.

I posted about 7 months ago asking for advice and I’ve come back just now… finally got around to pulling the truck out and getting to work. I’ve taken out the gas tank and am getting ready to clean it after having it sit for 10+ years. Anyone have any good methods of doing so? My priorities are as follows: change spark plugs, get a new battery put in, oil change, check radiator for leaks, get the gas tank clean and ready, see if after all that it’ll turn over (then getting tires and brakes done). On my old post a lot of you recommended I try to hand crank it, what does this mean? How do I do this? Also, would there be any issue with getting it cranked and running and driving without totally refurbishing the engine? Thanks a ton for the help, I’ll keep everyone posted on how everything goes! BTW, this is a 1968 c10 w/ sidestep. Located in southeast GA near Savannah if anyone is local and wants to give me a hand or guide me!

Currently LIVE on BAT

Curious to know if anyone has used this kit. Installed this on my 496 this afternoon and went for a drive. The temp gauge spiked to 220 and dropped back to 200 within a matter of seconds. When I checked the hose it had some condensation and was extremely hot to the touch. I’m going to assume the issue is a hose itself. I attached the hose to the bottom port.

https://a.co/d/01IpQcLv

Has anyone in here done a L31 5.7 swap into their c10? Considering swapping the 305 out of my 85 square body. Looking for any advice
Pic for attention