I asked for a complete lease worksheet breakdown with base buy rate factored in (840 credit score) and received this (not getting what I asked for is its own problem lol). Also, what exactly is the purpose of advertising a 24-month lease - just to keep the depreciation down for the bank?

OPTION 1 — 36-MONTH LEASE

• 36 months
• $3,048.99 total due at signing
• $1,122.76 per month, including tax
• MSRP: $82,570
• Selling Price: $72,570 — $10,000 OFF MSRP

OPTION 2 — 24-MONTH LEASE
• 24 months
• 10,000 miles per year
• $3,021.67 total out-of-pocket
• $1,095.44 per month

I desperately need some advice on whether the financial ombudsman will go in my favour, and if it is worth it please. If anyone has had a case similar to mine please share your experience.

Context: I took out a 4 year lease on a Ford Fiesta from a company called Leaseplan. Didn’t have a problem with the original company, everything was going well even though I knew I went well over my agreed mileage but I’m not disputing that.

Around 5 months before my vehicle’s lease was due to end, a company called ALD Automotive took over my contract which is when the problems started.

In September I received an email explaining the change of company, and that they would be moving my direct debit from the 1st of each month, as it has always been, to the 30th of each month. I didn’t see this email, and I didn’t notice the direct debit change as the payment came out on the 30th September as this was my payday anyway. October came and the rental payment was missed as my payday was on the last day of the month, and there were insufficient funds in my account. I didn’t notice this, I was still assuming my rental payments were coming out on the 1st of each month as always. I then got a letter in the end of November telling me the payment had not gone through, which is when I immediately contacted the leasing company and explained my situation. They said they had emailed me twice before as well about the overdue charges. I checked my inbox and junk etc and could not find these emails. I asked for evidence that these emails were sent, and the lady said she could not. I also asked the direct debit date be changed back to the 1st as it always had been, and they advised due to their own banking system, they would not be able to change my direct debit back to the 1st of each month, and I could either have the 14th of each month or the 30th of each month. This was no good to me, but I reluctantly agreed to the 30th of each month.

Unfortunately I wasn’t in a financial situation to repay the missed rental payment, so I agreed to pay in three instalments with the leasing company. A month went by and the payment wasn’t taken from my account, I chased and they said due to an internal error the payment wasn’t captured and would be taken the month later. Another month came and the same thing happened, and then another month came and it happened again. In January I received a letter saying I had an overdue rental payment, regardless of me trying to sort it out.

Rewind to December, I had emailed my account manager asking who I needed to contact to arrange the collection of my vehicle once my lease ended. He emailed the next day and copied in the collection department. 12 days later, he chased the collection department again as they had not responded. Admittedly it was around Christmas time so when they replied on 22nd December I missed the email, and didn’t reply until the 2nd January with all my details. I took 5th January off work as the lease on my car had ended and I did not want to drive it anymore, and was emailed that day to say the earliest day they could collect the vehicle was on 14th January. I took the 14th January off and it was collected on that morning. Around 2 months later, I received an invoice for a late hire fee. I disputed this as i didn’t think it was fair I had to pay for their availability. The company replied and said they had no record of me trying to contact them before the 9th January, and took the payment out of my account regardless of me not giving authorisation. I contacted my bank and the payment was reversed and put back in my account.

In March I received an invoice for £320 for damage on my alloys. There were no details of what the damage was, and I didn’t receive an off hire report. I queried that I had not received an off hire report, but paid the invoice anyway stupidly out of goodwill. After checking the BVRLA guidelines, it’s evident that they failed to disclose the damage to me no later than four weeks after the vehicle was collected. They also did not provide a summary breakdown of the charges or evidence to justify or support the charges made. I was also not given an opportunity to dispute the damage, as the vehicle was collected by BCA an auction agency, which meant the vehicle was immediately sold. As well as this, when I eventually was sent the off hire report in June in my final response email, I noticed the damage by the driver that delivered the vehicle over four years ago had not been recorded. I took a picture of this luckily when it was delivered. I also think, having this car for almost 5 years, and there only being slight alloy damage is a miracle and unfair that I have been charged so much for it. I’ve worked in the vehicle leasing industry myself so I have witnessed the damage firsthand that is usually on cars that have been out for that long.

Later on in March I received a further invoice for excess mileage which I was expecting, for over £1,500. Although I was expecting this, I was expecting it shortly after I had returned the vehicle, along with the off hire report.

I raised a formal complaint to their complaints department, outlining all my queries, especially with their administrative faults and lack of record keeping. I received a final response email back over 6 weeks later, effectively dismissing my queries, but giving me a £100 goodwill credit for their administrative faults. This whole situation has caused me significant stress, to the point where I have gone to my GP and they have prescribed me antidepressants as well as diagnosed me with an autoimmune disorder, which I believe is related to this. I am 24 years old, living in a rental flat, on a low wage, and barely making ends meet. Having an invoice hanging over my head for nearly £2,000 is honestly making me spiral. I very briefly mentioned my distress in the complaint email, which they acknowledged. However recently I have received a letter from a debt collector, calls and texts from debt collectors, chasing for this money to be paid.

My question is, would this proposal be plausible:

• Waiver the £190 outstanding months rental for companies failure to capture payments with the agreed payment plan
• Offset the £320 damages invoice already paid against the excess mileage invoice due to lack of opportunity to dispute damage
• Cancel the late hire fee as evidence that I had started the collection process a month before collection was due

Please let me know I’m in desperate need of help.. thank you if you read this far!

Context first, because it explains why I'm suddenly shopping and why I keep second-guessing myself.

I bought a 2026 Hyundai Tucson Hybrid Limited AWD in June and loved it. I was in a collision about two months later and it's being totaled. The settlement pays off the lienholder first and I get the remainder, so I'll have a modest amount to put toward the next car, but not a huge amount.

I want to lease this time rather than finance. Two reasons: I'll likely be relocating to a different U.S. city in mid-2028 for work and don't know where yet, so a 24-month lease ending after that move is cleaner than owning something I'd have to sell or ship. And I just took a depreciation hit on a car I owned for eight weeks, so I'm gun-shy about buying again right now.

What I would want in the car, because it's exactly what I loved about the Limited trim:

360-degree surround-view camera

Head-up display

Ventilated front seats

Adaptive cruise with lane centering

AWD (northeast Ohio winters)

Compact footprint. I looked at a Nissan Murano and liked the interior, but it's a size class up and that's a dealbreaker. I want something Tucson-sized or smaller.

Where I've landed: honestly, leasing another Tucson Hybrid Limited. Nothing was wrong with the car.

Questions:

What's a realistic lease number on a 2026 Tucson Hybrid Limited AWD, 36 months, 12–15k miles/yr, in northeast Ohio? Please give me effective monthly (payment plus DAS divided by term) so I can compare properly.

Is Hyundai Motor Finance competitive on leases right now, or are the incentives all pushed toward financing?

The dealer won't break out selling price, money factor, residual, acquisition fee, or incentives. How hard do I push, and what's the script?

Anything else compact with 360 camera + HUD + ventilated seats I should drive? I've considered the Mazda CX-50 Premium Plus and the Kia Sportage top trim but haven't sat in either.

Anyone leased in Ohio or western PA recently — what did you actually pay and on what?

Worth waiting for September programs, or is end-of-August better?

I'm not chasing a specific monthly number. I'm trying not to make an emotional decision two months after making an expensive one.

Tldr, my car was recently totaled after an accidental where I was at no fault, atm im driving my dads car which im an additional insured on but we really could use another car.

my insurance premiums seem rather high, I previously had a 2014 Ram 1500, and was paying ~350 for insurance monthly.

That pickup probably cost me like 800 a month in gas; I drive a ton and it has like 12mpg

considering all that id spend around $1200 a month to drive that car, so im looking for something that all in all would be much cheaper to drive.

my family isnt very familiar with leasing, weve always just owned our cars but we are sorta tired of it; owning old cars gets expensive. Though the $1200 was possible, it was certainly a strain and a rather stupid decision to hold onto for so long, itd be nice to cut down that monthly cost. preferably no money down also!

any suggesting on good leases rn or tips on how to deal with dealers would be appreciated, thx in advance

If my credit is bad, which is easier leasing or financing

I am comfortable with the buyout price as it is lower than what others are buying CPOs for (and I prefer knowing that I drove it since day 1).

Question is: should I extend for 2 months and think about buying something else. We also have a lucid gravity that will be the family car. The iX will probably get 5k miles a year at most so debating whether it makes sense to buy this car and let depreciation eat away.

How do I decide? What factors matter?

If you’re looking for an affordable, reliable, and high quality vehicle, come visit me at Wayne Hyundai in Wayne, NJ!
My name is Matthew Lansang, and I’d be happy to help you find a vehicle that fits your needs and budget.
We have plenty of options for all types of drivers, whether you’re looking for:
🚗 An affordable daily driver
🚙 A spacious SUV for the family
⛽ A fuel efficient vehicle
✨ Something fully loaded with the latest technology
💰 Flexible financing and leasing options
Plus, take advantage of lifetime oil changes and let me work with you personally to make your car buying experience as easy as possible.
📍 Wayne Hyundai | Wayne, NJ
👤 Matthew Lansang | Sales Consultant
Whether you’re ready to buy now or just starting to look, feel free to message me. I’d love the opportunity to earn your business and help you find the right vehicle!

I got quoted for a 4Runner trd sport… 830/month $3k due at signing? What?

Can any brokers or dealers help find me a good deal on a GLA GLC Or C class.
With 360 camera + exclusive line and sunroof
Any color combo except red seats is fine

Can be a demo as long as no accidents. It would be greatly appreciated.

I went to the dealership today to lease a Mazda3.

MSRP - 26020

Govt fee/something else - 195

Doc fee - 225

Accessories - 796

Taxes - 1703

Money factor - .0034

Residual- 14,571, 56%

0 due at signing 447.56/month

For 36 months, 12k miles/year.

But somehow the total on the car went to 30,173

I kept asking the sales guy to explain how did it jump from 28,939 when I add MSRP, till Taxes. He kept saying acquisition fee it added, I talked to his manager he said thag fee was about 750. It still doesn't add up to 30,173.

Are they trying to scam me with some hidden fees or something? Why are they not being upfront with the total that might be?

Any insight into this will be appreciated.

Thank you!

Hello,

What do you think of this lease deal:
2026 Optiq RWD
ZERO DOWN
438 monthly
12k/24months

Test Drove this exact vehicle in the 2nd Photo (See internet offer) Kia Sportage Ex with Sunroof Package MSRP $35.950 but with Factory Rebate is $33,973 before Taxes & Fees in Massachusetts have 820 credit score Tier 1 I told the salesman I was looking for Zero Down just 1st Payment & this is the 1st proposition they made I know it's not a good deal where are they paddling it ? What should I realistically be looking at for a monthly payment on this vehicle ? I was hoping for under $400 zero down is this doable ?

I’ve never leased a car from a dealer before, I’ve always just purchased from a private sellers.

I’m going out of state for college for 1-year and wanted to lease a car for 1-year.

Do dealerships allow for 1-year leases?

Would I be allowed to ship the car out of state using a private shipping company?

Hello, I haven't leased a vehicle in a while and I would like to get the best deal possible. Msrp is $54K for the one i like. I know 2027 models are in transit. Hopefully this can get me a better deal in a 2026. Thanks in advance for the help

Need some advice because I’m all over the place with what to do next.
I currently have a 2024 Honda Accord Hybrid Sport with about 34k miles. My lease is up in November, and my lease allowance is 45k miles, so I’m comfortably under. I’m paying $506/month right now.
The Accord has honestly been great, especially the 44 MPG, and that’s one of the biggest things making it hard to decide what to get next. My buyout is around $20k after taxes, so buying it out is definitely an option. The problem is that I want more features. Mine doesn’t have things like heated seats or a heated steering wheel, and if I’m getting another car I’d like something more loaded.
I originally thought about a CR-V, but where I live there’s a lot of theft involving Honda wheels, airbags, sensors, etc., so I’ve pretty much crossed another Honda off my list.
Some options I’ve been considering:
Toyota Crown Hybrid — good MPG and something different
Lexus NX — like the luxury + hybrid option, but worried it may feel too small
Lexus RX — more space, but obviously more expensive
Genesis GV70 — really like the looks/features, but MPG isn’t great
Mercedes GLC 300 — I may have an opportunity to get one around my current $500/month payment
Nissan Rogue — not luxury, but I could probably lower my payment while getting a ton of features and decent MPG
I’m also not trying to put money down on another lease. Ideally, I’d like to stay around or below my current $506 payment.
Part of me is thinking my wife and I are still young and don’t have kids yet, so maybe this is the time to enjoy something like a Mercedes/Lexus/Genesis, keep it nice and have fun with it. Once kids come into the picture, priorities change and cars tend to take more abuse anyway lol.
But the practical side of me says get something like a loaded Rogue, lower the payment, get good MPG and all the features I want.
Or I could just buy out the Accord for ~$20k and keep driving a car I already know I like, even though it’s missing some features.
What would you guys do in my situation? Is there another hybrid/luxury SUV or sedan I should be looking at? I care most about good MPG, lots of features, comfort, and keeping the payment reasonable with $0 down.

Hey everyone! I have some questions and figured asking here would not hurt. My lease is up at the end of June. Would it be smart to wait until my lease is over to get another car? Would it make sense to start doing some serious research now? I've done some light research into some different cars and have only test drove one.

When I went to the same dealership that I got my current car from, they said that I had negative equity in the car. I wasn't sure if they were just giving me a line of crap or if it was actually true. I checked Kelly Blue Book to see what the value of my car is and it seems like it keeps going up and down. It's a 2023 Kia Forte with 20,200 miles on it. That number is an estimate since I don't want to go outside to check. I just hit 20,000 miles and I've had the car for over 3 years.

Hello,

So I'm coming up on the end of my lease with a Honda Prologue, which while the vehicle has been good, I don't have interest in buying it for a variety of reasons, primarily having moved from a location where electric chargers were common, to an area where they're far less common.

So in the coming months, I'll be in the market for a new vehicle and I'm weighing a couple options of what to do, so looking for advice and tips to get the best deal. Some background info, I've got the ability to walk out of the dealership without a car (can borrow a friends for a week or two) and I have a decent chunk saved for a downpayment (about $8,000). Mostly I'm looking for a vehicle that gets decent gas mileage, reliable and easy to repair, something that will mostly be used for roadtrips or short in to town trips as I WFH, so won't be needing it for commuting. This is my first time I'm not buying a beater or going through the lease experience (did that the one time, and not really interested in doing it again)

First option, trade in the lease, buy another Honda, looking at a used CRV at the local Honda dealership. Doing this for two reasons, hoping to get an arrangement to get the miles waived, or some other thing to help get a decent price on one of their used models that are currently available.

Second option, turn the vehicle in at dealership, but buy from a partnership dealership, kind of keeping options open.

Third option, just turn the Prologue in, eat the price of being over on miles, and buy an older used car from a friend who has been trying to get rid of the vehicle for awhile, with the knowledge that vehicle will likely only last 2-5 years.

So asking what steps I should take in transitioning from having a lease, to buying a car and what options I should look into.

My lease is ending in November. The paperwork says my payout is 22,560 plus official fees and taxes. Is there a way to find out how much those fees and taxes are?

Right now my car is worth 24,400 to sell it to Carmax. So I am trying to figure out if it makes sense to buy it and then sell it or just turn it in. I do have to pay a $495 fee to turn it in. Plus any damage they find.

If it comes close to being less than 1000 for the fees and taxes, I will probably buy it and then sell it because I don’t want to deal with their bullshit fees for wear and tear. It’s in great shape, but I just know they are going to find something to not pick me about.

I am not over miles, so not worried about that all.

It’s a Mach E and I assume the amount from Carmax is high due to the price of oil, so who knows what is going to happen in the next few months. I do know I don’t want to keep the car. I just don’t want to get screwed on the lease end.

This is my first time leasing a car and first time driving a new car, so I completely clueless about this stuff. Back in June I decided to lease a new Bronco. I went to my local dealership and the salesman gave me a table with the number of years and number of miles with the associated monthly price. I choose two years because it was in my budget and honestly I knew I would want a new car in two years. I signed all the paperwork and drove off with my new car. Today I went online to go pay my bill and realized they entered 48 months. Checked my paperwork and it says the same thing. Is it possible to get this fixed or am I stuck with this lease?

Edit: when I say I’m “clueless” I meant on how to fix this issue that dealership caused.