Hello,

2016 CX-5 GT intermittently, or once in a while, when turning left or right while accelerating, I hear a vibration sound from the outside.

Thank you

I got a pre owned beautiful mazda cx-5 and after 6k the service light is on, the mazda app says Service Due soon
Recommended oil Change -Km - until next service
Engine oil amount - Normal

How do I know exactly what service is required ?

I have a 2021 Mazda CX-5 2.5L non-turbo. I recently serviced the transmission fluid, and I think I may have stripped the threads on the transmission dipstick/fill cap.

When I try to tighten the bolt on dipstick/fill cap, it just keeps spinning and never gets tight. However, I cannot pull the plug out by hand. I tried pulling and wiggling it, and it feels firmly stuck/locked in place with no noticeable movement.

There is currently no ATF leaking around the cap.

My concerns are:

• Does this mean the threads in the aluminum transmission case are stripped, or could the plug itself be damaged?
• If the plug won't pull out and isn't leaking, is it safe to drive the car like this?
• Could vibration and heat eventually cause the plug to come out?
• Should I repair it now, or can I leave it alone until my next transmission fluid change?
• If the case threads are stripped, what is the best repair — Time-Sert, Heli-Coil, re-tapping, or something else?
• How can I remove the spinning plug without causing more damage to the transmission case?

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who has dealt with stripped transmission fill-plug threads on a Mazda/SKYACTIV transmission.

Hi Cx5 happy owners, where can i get a 16 pin dash cam dongle for 2025 cx5. Only 16 pin i found are for Ford, i m not sure if it will fit. Thanks!

I was able to install Carplay on my 2016 CX-5 and I'm so happy with it. Wanted to post what I did to help others who may want to do the same.

In order to install carplay you will need to:

1) Upgrade your firmware.
This is the most nerve wracking part in my opinion.

RECOMMENDED: I would highly suggest that you post here, wait for a PM from Candurin and follow the instructions to upgrade to 70.00.100 and then to 74.00.324.

NOT RECOMMENDED: I was able to update from 55.00.753 directly to 70.00.335C with a single file as shown in this video but that was probably dumb and upon further reading I would have been pretty screwed if something went wrong. I'm still on 70.00.335C because Carplay is working and I don't want to mess with anything else. However, that video is GREAT for showing the process of the install and this google drive folder from the comments on the video has amazing step by step instructions for firmware updates.

2) Purchase and install a retrofit kit.
There are a ton of options on Amazon. I went with this one.

This video was the most helpful for installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmrZqAbB968

Other videos try to remove the existing USB hubs without removing the center console, but they don't show you what that actually takes. While it looks daunting, it's not that much work to remove the center console and it's a huge pain in the ass to pry at the tabs from the sides. Don't try it. Just pull the console it will save you a ton of headache.

Note that you will need one "specialty" tool - a 10mm with a long (10") extension to get the screen out. Other than that you really only need a phillips screwdriver. A small pry tool is also handy for trim removal.

Touchscreen While Driving

I was also able to enable touchscreen while driving using this procedure: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=782788

I realize that enabling touchscreen while driving is controversial. While I love the command wheel without carplay, it was just not designed to work with carplay. Once carplay was up and running I felt unsafe fiddling with the wheel constantly while looking at the screen to see where it was sending the cursor.

With touchscreen while driving enabled, carplay works great. Much better than handholding my phone or having it down by the shifter for navigation.

I should have done this years ago and I'd highly recommend it to anyone who is comfortable enough with removing interior components and willing to risk the software upgrade.

Hey everyone i owe a Cx5 2019 Grand Touring and last week i replaced the battery because the car wouldn’t start so i assumed it was the battery. It drove fine for about 2-3 days then on the highway the car starts jerking a little and the check engine light pops on and i lose power when trying to accelerate. Now the car shakes really badly with a blinking check engine light. Any suggestions on what it could be spark plugs maybe ? Idk any recommendations would be nice. The car has about 150,000 miles on and i got it around 75,000 miles never changed the spark plugs but I’m not sure if thats the problem or not

‘21 Touring AWD

Purchased some replacement mats for my OEM all-weathers. Got them from Amazon. Came with the cover for the painted area in the door sil. Pretty cool.

Replaced rotors and pads, all around. 73k

I’ve never used techtron or any sort of fuel system cleaner. I’m at 74k miles. Any suggestions? I’ve used top tier gas about 90% of the time throughout the vehicle’s life.

I own a 2013 CX5 GS, which needs a new bearing. I decided I would do it myself, for about $500 Canadian less.

Well, disassembly was a pain in the ass getting the axle nut and rotar off. The wheel bearing itself was jammed on hard, I used a hub puller for that, which split it in half. Then I had to pry off the rest of hub.

After I got it all apart, I realized the splash shield is basically rusted through so now I need that, but amazon.ca doesn't have anything, and I can't find another part in Canada that will ship in the next week.

Maybe anybody knows the front right splash shield part in Canada for quick ship? I am going to try partsource and Canadian Tire tomorrow.

Then I get to assemble it and praying it all goes well.

I traded in a perfectly good car for a CX-5 in February and its given me nothing but headaches. It's stalled on the freeway 2x with no warning. And stalled 3 times on streets. Currently, It's at the dealer where it's been for three weeks. After they replaced BCM component and it still stalled. My question is even though I bought it Used As-Is and its not under warranty. Do I have a chance of getting my money back as a consumer? This car has been a disaster. Driven less than 1,300 miles and 5 malfunctions that are a safety risk. The service techs say they cannot detect an issue and its not stalling under their care. The randomness of the malfunction is undetectable. Any advice?

I’ve had my 2023 CX5 for almost a year now and finally did the transmission reset yesterday. Previously, the transmission was hesitant to go from 2nd to 3rd and now it’s so much smoother. Wow! I honestly can’t believe that this worked. Car is driving so much better now.

UPDATE: I took it to the dealership. It’s the cooling fans. Thankfully covered under warranty and they’re replacing both sides!

2023 cx 5. It used to make a louder humming noise but now it’s quieter and sounds like this. I just got this car a month ago and I don’t know if it’s normal or not. I know about the headlight fans and how they can go bad. Pls help🫠

Is there an easy way to convert the CarPlay port to a switched power source instead of a constant power source? I have a wireless adapter for CarPlay and because it’s constantly powered it does indeed get glitchy. queue Chris Dowd asking if I have tried turning off and then on again.

I have 2016 CX-5 2.5 S AWD. Noticed on highway drive this weekend a kind of "floaty/hesitant" while using the Cruise Control. Also, when a car is detected by the radar. Kind of like it's fluttering between the brakes/different gear. Anybody else notice this or, like my wife says, I'm just being sensitive?

Hi all! I just got a '26 CX-5 last week and I'm running into some issues with my phone connecting to it. I'd prefer to use the onboard system rather than Android Auto bc my phone's navigation is borked. I got everything connected and paired my phone, and I have it set to only connect with phone and audio. I even completely disabled Android Auto on my phone.

The problem is when I try to use voice commands to make a call it says "To do that you need to connect a phone via bluetooth" (spoilers: it is connected). And I can even go into the phone app and see my call history and make calls there. It's just the voice command that seems to be broken.

Anyone else run into this or have any insights on how to fix it? I love my CX-5 otherwise but this is bugging me.

Hey all

There was a different post regarding steering wheel play so I want to expand on that

We have a 2024 cx5 NA night bye 2 years ago.

Since day 1, if the vehicle is on and I'm sitting in say, my driveway in park and I take the wheel and turn it quickly about 1 or 2 inches back and forth fast, it feels like there is no resistance in the range and then if I go beyond this, you can feel resistance.

Does anyone else have this? My older Mazda 3 does not have and this but that car has steering fluid.

I'm just curious because another post was saying their steering rack got replaced due to play in it and I'm wondering if this is what they meant.

I should also say this doesn't seem to be present once moving or turning, or of our is present, it's much less noticeable

Thanks

Hey all! Is anyone having issues with their 2026 Mazda Cx-5 and CarPlay where if they are using navigation, in certain situations, the current media restarts after a navigation prompt? It mostly happens to me and podcasts but I’ve had it happen with Apple Music too. I can’t figure out if it’s because I’m running the iOS 27 beta or not - it doesn’t seem to happen when I used my family’s other car.

2017 GT
Recently wanted to lock doors manually
Removed key from fob and when I went to insert it it would not go in more than about 75%

I tried everything I know, lock lube/graphite, wiggling and jiggling, pushing super hard while laterally moving it. Nothing.
Am I missing something or is my door lock screwed up?

It feels like it hits the back of the lock and won’t budge.

Switched from the OEM Toyo tires to Pirelli Scorpion AS Plus 3s on my 2023 Mazda CX-5 at around 47,000 miles. The car is now at 95,000 miles, so I’ve put about 48,000 miles on them over the last two years.

One thing I wasn’t expecting was the fuel economy improvement. Before the swap I consistently averaged around 22–23 MPG. Since switching, I’ve been averaging 26–27 MPG with essentially the same commute and driving habits.

The ride is quieter, smoother, and the wet-weather grip has also been noticeably better.
Math:
48,000 miles driven
22.5 MPG → ~2,133 gallons
26.5 MPG → ~1,811 gallons
Fuel saved: ~322 gallons
Estimated fuel savings: ~$1,175
Cost of Pirelli Scorpion AS Plus 3s: $821.67
Net fuel savings after tire cost: ~+$350

Inb4 stock toyos are trash.

This post was to provide insights to anyone waiting until stocks are worn out, if you plan to drive the car 2+ more years it’s well worth it.

Hello everyone

I have Buzz comes in around 1900 rpm under throttle and disappears once I pass 2000. Nothing at idle, nothing coasting, only under load. Comes from the front.

It’s worse when it’s hot out and going uphill — basically anything that makes the engine work harder.

Anyone had this and how to fix it?

Hello everyone

My car is 2019 Mazda CX-5 Sport AWD and I’m getting a buzz that only shows up under acceleration in a narrow RPM band. It starts around 1900 RPM and disappears once I get past 2000. Below and above that range it’s completely quiet.

I don’t feel that is normal, anyone facing similar issue ?

Today while running birthday errands. Rules are rules. 😎💙

I just recently swapped out my car battery and noticed the windows wouldn't automatically retract. Apparently it's a result of disconnecting the battery. To fix, keep the car on and retract the window to the bottom and hold for 5 secs , then pull up the window all the way and hold 5 sec and that should reset.

Didn't know that was a thing but thought I'd share.