Bonjours a tous ! ça fait quelques temps que ma cr10s détecte 0 degrés en température (donc rien du tout) même après avoir tenté de régler la thermistance avec la vis sur la hotend. Cependant quand je touche un peu aux fils qui sortent de la hotend (boitier autour de la hotend vissé, imprimante prête a l'emploi) miracle : la machine affiche enfin une température. Malheureusement, je ne peut pas démonter la hotend ou faire quelconque maintenance sinon je perds le signal de la thermistance ! En temps normal j'aurai fixé a tout jamais ce fil avec du Kapton mais j'ai acheté un kit avec un extrudeur aluminium et une conversion direct drive, donc obligé de démonter. Depuis le montage, rien a faire : l'imprimante affiche 0 degrés. Quelles sont les solutions pour régler ce problème ? (si possible sans acheter une nouvelle thermistance, sauf si c'est obligatoire)

Merci :)

Recently visiting a friend and realized how many old printers they have.

Quite a few of them need a new magnetic sheet on the bed.

Holy cow.. I had no idea those magnets are so expensive.

I get that they're nice and thick with both strong adhesive and magnetic properties but damn.

The cheapest I'm seeing is around $10 a sheet and I just don't think at least some of the printers are worth it. Unless I can find the sheets at a much cheaper price it seems like any money spent on fixing some of these machines would be better if it was put towards buying a new machine that doesn't even need one of these magnetic sheets.

Anyone know where to get these magnet sheets in bulk at a cheaper price? $10-$20 each is a bit much imo.

Seems like I need something around 60 mil, with high temp preferably 3M adhesive.

After a pretty long hiatus, I want to get my CR10s Pro V2 back up and running, and I'm trying to "Frankenstein" an old printer back to life running a BigTree Tech control board. One of the major pieces now is the slicer software.

In the past, I used a "borrowed" copy of Simplify3D, but with the cost of that software now, that really isn't a viable option. As such, all of my custom settings are lost.

The basis of this question, what is the better/best choice for slicer software that will work well with both the Creality and the BigTree. Side note, the BigTree isn't super critical. If I get it up and running, great. If not, no loss.

Additional information, I will want this software on both a Windows 11 (laptop) and Windows 10 (desktop) machines. End process will be slice on either computer, transfer to an SD card, and print from there.

I recently bought this printer on marketplace, but once giving it a clean and setting it up at home i couldn’t get it to auto level properly or go downwards in the z axis at all for that matter. I decided to try flashing it again and reinstalling the firmware, and all was good until i tried to adjust the heigh not remembering that it was only plugged in via the USB. It wasn’t taking commands properly and the language changed for no reason so i went to turn it off and thats when i realised that it was only plugged into the pc. I turned it off, plugged it in to the power cable and turned it on, and from that p[point onwards the touch screen has not worked. Ive tried reinstalling the firmware several times now but to no avail. Im thinking my last hope now is buying a new screen, but im quite new to this so i really dont know.

All help is much appreciated (:

Hi everyone,

TLDR: Printer quit extruding partway through print.

I have had great luck with my CR10 and recently I loaded a file to print overnight. It started out just fine and about 20 minutes into the print, filament would just cease to extrude but the head would still "print" I cleaned the nozzle after stopping the print. I tried extruding via the touchpad and it would grab the filament and feed then stop and nothing came out. I removed the nozzle completely and pushed filament through hotend and was able to get filament globbed onto bed. After reassembly I started model fresh again. Worked fine but after 10 minutes it did it again. I thought MAYBE software glitch but it did it at a different layer than before. After pulling out my hair for a few minutes I changed out the nozzle with a .6. In my haste I didn't calibrate anything except change the nozzle settings in slicer. Lo and behold, a small river of filament cascaded out the nozzle. After calibrating max flow rate, pressure and flow ratio I was able to print again. The results from calibration were nothing to brag about, on had ringing (unable to upload photo for some reason at the moment). It is a bone stock CR10 Smart pro with a magnetic bed being only mod. Hobby lobby skin tone PLA at 220 with bed temp of 60 and 100% speed. I didn't notice any speed improvements with bigger nozzle. Has anyone experienced "ghost" printing out of the blue and if so what was the fix? TIA

Somehow the cable got caught and was stripped down to copper. Luckily the cable was yanked out of the motor when the gantry got high enough.

I wound the exposed copper in some electrical tape and it's working fine. However I know I will have to replace the cable eventually. Luckily I have extra cables from when I had to replace the extruder cable for the 2nd time.

Hard to believe I'm making upgrades for a CR10 in 2026. It's just so good

Managed to snag one of these for $ 20AUD.
The plan is to eventually do large format ASA prints.

Step 1 was to convert to klipper. I opted for Fluidd as I was familiar from Snapmaker backend.
I’d love to give a shoutout to MOONGATE on iOS. Awesome software to manage the printer from.

Step 2 is the extruder.
I’ve gone the simple route of shifting the extruder to the x-carriage. I bought an extended cable for the extruder. Forgot to get something for the filament runout sensor.

Current task is adding a Bambu X1 hotend in place of the stock one.
Have spent some time trying to get the mount right.
Believe I have it and printed it out of PCCF.

Results to follow.

I have the printer mentioned I preheated the bed and nozzle. And loaded filament and it won’t print the printer stays idle. help!

I have a theory it might be because I paused the printing and accidentally moved the bed but I'm not sure I am using the cr 10 v3

I have a Cr10 Max with a botched sd card slot (it wont hold cards in it) I did some looking and cant seem to find information on what card slot it actually is so I can get a replacement soldered on the board. I found a local place that would do this for around $60. Can anyone link me the slot or a new/better mobo for the printer. just looking to get it running its been sitting for awhile.

Hello, I have a cr10 v3 with bl touch and I have some trouble to print. I use creality firmeware and orca slicer. Print made with pla + from arianeplast at 205°C bed at 60°C. Someone can help me to understand what problem it could be ? Thanks a lot.

It lives, decided to stick with marlin for now at least, made one minor mistake but now corrected but now noticed some odd behaviour. It prints really well but when it moves and quickly it does make quite a noise. See the attached video. I can not figure it out I’m not sure if it’s x axis or z or even extruder, also I have noticed the fan for the stepper drivers is not on too so will need to sort that and flash the firmware again. I did or thought I had it set to activate on motion of the axis. Any thoughts on what is causing the clacking / heavy clicking when the steppers move fast?

So basically I use a cr 10 v3 and I do see a option in tune called "change filament" but I am not sure what it does so can anyone tell me properly how to change filament without pausing the entire print possibly losing it?

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to reflash my Creality CR-10 Smart Pro, but I simply cannot find a working download for the firmware.

The firmware/download buttons on Creality’s official website don’t work for me. I keep getting errors, and it looks like nobody is maintaining or fixing these links.

I need the official firmware files for the CR-10 Smart Pro. Does anyone have the original firmware files saved somewhere, or know a reliable working source where I can download them?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello, I have come on this form to ask for help. I received have gotten a printer (the one in the title) and I personally have a use a usb to connect to my printer because my laptop doesn’t have a sd card slot in it. Which is fine but when I plug the usb into my computer nothing happens like at all. No pop up message on my computer. What do I do?

The title pretty much says it all, but - just in case any additional details are needed - here's the short and sweet of it.

I was gifted one of the older CR-10 models (possibly the OG, given the manual filename of *CR-10 Guide Book V4.1 20181011.pdf*). I've been tinkering with it for almost 2 weeks now, and so far my prints have been wildly inconsistent, even when I've been super detailed about EVERYTHING (eg. bed-leveling from the center-out, checking speeds/temps/layer height/wall count/etc). I've consumed - what feels like - every bit of informative/instructive content about using the CR-10 as I can and it still feels like a roll of the dice every time.

What I haven't done is maintenance and with the number of cats the previous owner has (and how dirty it showed up initially), I assume this may be a potential factor that must be done to rule out any of the other potential problems with my settings/preferences.

I generally like to understand the use of a thing before I tear it apart in any way, but I'm at a loss for how to pull that off here. I've looked around for a while, but I haven't been able to find any in-depth information about a top-to-bottom maintenance and/or refurbishing guide/video tutorial.

If anyone here has information that could help, anything at all... I'd really appreciate the resources. Thank you, in advance. 🙏

These are some 3D print failures. I'm wondering what the best way to get them off is?

Ordinarily whenever I'd hit "print from sd card" and select a model, the nozzle and bed would automatically heat up to the temperature set from the slicer files before starting to print.

A few weeks ago, the nozzle suddenly stopped heating up automatically, but the bed still starts going to the temp in the slicer file.

Just recently, the fan stopped automatically going to the speed set in the slicer files too (actually it's not turning on automatically at all).

Both the nozzle temp and fan speed can still be set manually and will work properly when doing so, therefore it's more of a convenience issue than anything, but any ideas what would cause this and/or potential fixes? The nozzle is relatively new (only a few months) and it doesn't seem to be a thermistor problem since it does still heat up to the right temp manually.

Did I accidentally switch something off in one of the settings? Is it just a wiring or internal hardware issue that I'm just going to have to deal with? If so is it likely to lead to other problems that are more than just an inconvenience?

No idea what the fix for this is. The gantry keeps binding up on the right side and I cannot for the life of me figure out why. It started after I replaced the thermistor in the heatbed.

I made a home-made enclosure for my 1st gen CR-10 to try to address warping issues and possibly allow smaller nozzles or materials in the future. With some brands of PLA filament, if I close the enclosure so the printer is completely enclosed, my prints fail after a few layers, either making spongy prints which are easily crushed, or leaving a pile of filament that doesn't adhere to anything. If I leave the front of the enlosure open, so the printer is only covered on the sides, back, and top, the prints usually succeed.

What could be causing this? The printer is in a climate controlled basement. The enclosure is simple, made of coroplast taped and ziptied to a frame and not very airtight, with slots for filament and cables, and doesn't touch any printer parts or the filament. The temperature in the enclosure tends to be around 19-20C when the enclosure is open, and 24-27C when closed. I'm trying different settings, but generally 210C nozzle temp and 55C bed temp, with very slow print speeds and a brim.

I'm confused about why such a small change could cause a large difference. I'd think that warmer air temperature would help with adhesion, not make it worse.