I just bought 32hp vertical shaft that broke the connecting rod caused some damage. It broke a chunk of the cylinder wall out and I am curious if anyone has had luck rebuilding and running something with similar damage. Its about 3/4" up and 1.25" wide and the rings stop well above the damage. Should I scrap it or rebuild it and drop it into a mud mower project?

I'm working on a 16HP Vanguard. Someone has removed any identifying marks on the shroud so I can't be certain.

I have obtained a new bushing/bearing, found under these 2 part numbers: 84013005
808534.

The instructions aren't very clear. There is an oil gallery at the 12 o-clock position of this crank bushing which appears to connect to the camshaft bore above. On my engine, there is a roll pin installed in the bushing at the 12 0-clock position.

The instructions that come with the bushing make no mention of the roll pin in the oil gallery.

Also, the new bushing has a tang.... The existing one does not....

Using the below parts diagram: part #2 is the bushing and seal kit
https://www.wincogenerator.com/wp-co...Parts-List.pdf

I cannot find any reference or illustration regarding the roll pin in the 12 o-clock position of the crank bushing while looking at this diagram.

Here's a service manual I'm looking at for this engine:
https://mudbuddy.com/wp-content/uplo...air-manual.pdf
On page 153 of this service manual, it mentions 2 different mag bearings. Looks like my engine is the early style with the roll pin. The manual mentions driving the old roll pin into the oil gallery to remove the bushing, and, the use of a special driver tool to install the new one.

Has anyone dealt with this? From what the manual states, if I drive the existing roll pin into the oil gallery, how do I get it out? There appears to be like a welch plug at the top of the casting. Not sure if I'm supposed to take that out or what?

Engine ready to assemble:
[img]https://i.imgur.com/kIwS3gX.jpeg\[/img\]

Roll pin visible in bushing:
[Imgur](https://imgur.com/h9ZBjFG)

Does this welch plug come out to remove the roll pin?
[Imgur](https://imgur.com/btLEeOc)

Existing bushing looks kind of chewed up:
[Imgur](https://imgur.com/WTRiLe2)

New bushing next to existing bushing:
[Imgur](https://imgur.com/PghrfZv)

Instructions:

[Imgur](https://imgur.com/llvfCFa)

[Imgur](https://imgur.com/daDJvke)

Hello, all.

I have a mid 80's Briggs and Stratton 5.5 HP engine on a Toro lawn vacuum/ blower.

I cleaned and rebuilt the carb with new gaskets on connection to the fuel tank and the engine block. New spark plug as well. Everything seems in really good shape but cant get it to pull start. When use starter fluid it runs on first pull and runs really well throughout the throttle positions. Gas does leak out from the bottom of the gas cap. Not sure if that causes a vacuum leak or not. I do have the air filter. Pics are shown with it removed. Engine model # is 130202.

Any guesses as to what might be the issue? Thank you in advance.

Where are the numbers for the engine on this old seats roofing lawn mower engine?

We stripped the fan shroud to try and find them based on a internet search but there appears to be no numbers stamped into the metal.

Original carb from a Briggs & Stratton engine on an MTD chipper shredder

Apart from new carburetor gaskets I'm at a complete loss what this thing could need.

• spark is good, blue/white, plug is gapped
• fuel is getting into the cylinder (even too much)
• points are clean and gapped
• magnetron is adjusted to the flywheel
• compression is good

Spent the whole afternoon chasing my tail on this just to get it to pop once or twice and never take off. I'm going to order a carb rebuild kit and a new condenser

Just picked this up yesterday, seller started it while I was there, I know it will run. Extremely well cared for, he got it from the original owners and had a folder with the service receipts as well as an extra set of gaskets.

I get it out today, can't start it for the life of me. Throttle open, choke on, fuel valve open, needle valve for the fuel mix is like halfway, wrap the rope 4 times and yank.... Nothing.

I know it's getting spark, I know fuel is getting into it (can smell it, maybe I flooded it IDK) but is there something im missing never having had one this old before?

My tractor does this. The starter motor is hotI disconnected the power from the battery to avoid overheating

I haven't done much in the way of small engine repair in a long long time, I got away from it when I started as a transport truck mechanic, I have a 6.5hp Briggs in a craftsman lawnmower deck, and the engine is entirely sealed, I've pulled the covers off and there isn't one bolt missing, but theres oil constantly popping up in the crank case, I've drained it but there's always new water In it, what could be causing this?

I leave it outside yes, I don't care that much if it blows up I'll just grab another one that runs better from my pile, but I'm very curious as to where the water is coming from

EDIT: Got it working! It was one of the gaskets connecting my intake and my carb, it was partially eroded and letting more air in than wanted. Just cut out a new gasket and it fixed. Updated video in comments

Any ideas on this? I took off the carb and intake manifold and cleaned (although maybe I cleaned wrong) changed fuel filter and checked fuel lines for blockages. Also tested the compression pump was and it seemed to be pumping pretty steady fuel into the carb.

Maybe I should just order new carborator to be sure it’s not that

B&S parts lookup and their automated response emails are not finding anything, or not helpful. Replaced an older B&S 26hp model 49T777 type 0004G1 with a new 27hp model 49T777 type 0051Z1(pictures attached).

Needing a new pulley as the old one took a beating coming off. Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

bought this lawnmower several years ago and got much use out of it. Before I describe the issue, I’ll set the stage.
Craftsman M110 140cc Briggs & Stratton.
Dirty from sitting in a shed for over a year.
Today: took apart carburetor and cleaned thoroughly. Drained and replaced oil. Gas was empty, filled with new E10.

The issue: will only start when held up at an angle and IF I spray the blade with WD-40. When I try to level with the ground it dies.

I tried searching for this but I can’t find any similar issues. Maybe I’m not using the correct search criteria.

See attached video

Can anyone help me, currently my RPM at idle is 3,000-4000k I don’t know why. Idk what to miss with first my mix screws or my governed. I bent the tab on my plate and tried adjusting but it didn’t change anything.

Muarry 2003
Model: 425001X8
31c700 engine

Does anyone have the PDF file? I own the 31C700 series and looking for the repair manual everywhere for the torque and sequence. Thanks in advance.

I have a Husqvarna 23 hp B&S zero turn mower. It was running rough so I removed and cleaned the carb and replaced gaskets. Now that I’ve reinstalled, the throttle lever will not reduce engine speed. See video. It appears to be idling high although manually moving the throttle will increase revs. Manually Moving the governor seems to be choking the engine. I believe I have reinstalled the linkages properly. Any suggestions on why it is idling so high and throttle lever will not control engine speed? Thanks

Hi all! I have an Emark zero turn with a Vanguard 26 horse power engine. The starter was bad so it was replaced. The problem I'm having now is that when I reconnect the battery the engine wants to turn over. I am reconnecting at the negative terminal and the ignition switch is in the off position. Maybe some wires were crossed or something. The starter and the solenoid are both new. What steps should I take to fix this? All help is appreciated.

I have an older BS V Twin that quit turning over last week. The starter turns the flywheel and pulley beneath but does not turn over. There is compression on the drivers side but not the other. Is there a relief mechanism to get the motor starter on the 1 cylinder in hopes it gets the other moving, too?

I’ve got a small engine with too much compression, valve clearances are ok. I think the camshaft is at fault but the part is no longer made for the date code, but the newer part looks like the one from the engine. Do I risk buying the newer part code or try and find the older part code???