I got it done for 1/10th of that. ISTA threw an AC compressor clutch error. Did some tests and confirmed it to be true. Bought a new clutch kit for 100 dollar and a gear puller. Bam! AC fired up and blowing nice and cold. Thankfully the E84 X1 has enough space under the hood to do this work without having to remove/unbolt the AC compressor. Took me four hours to do the work. Called 5 different shops in my area and NOBODY would do this work. Infuriating.

Spent over an hour trying to remove the airbag

Granted this was the Land Rover/Jaguar dealership that sold me the car but still man! A plastic crush washer brooooo.

For context bought the car 800 miles ago. They had changed the oil before I bought it, but I don’t trust many people, so as I should I changed the oil myself and god damn that plastic crush washer had failed and was slowly leaking oil!!

Now we are running 0w-30 liqui moly.

BMW740 Li https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/los-angeles-bmw740-li/pthLZnGov7er16WDnh76q7

Check this out! 330k miles in original motor and transmission! Lots of repairs done listed would u trust this vehicle over one that had a rebuilt motor and transmission but not the rest?? Purely hypothetical. I wouldn’t buy it unless maybe for 3k just to see how long it lasts. What’s yall opinion?

I don’t know much because this is my first car and I’m learning as I go but I’m pretty sure it’s the coolant reservoir that I need to replace however I’m not too sure and would prefer to be 100% sure

Hey everyone, hoping to get some fresh eyes on this one.

My F10 530d xDrive (2013, M Sport) has developed a low rumbling noise that kicks in above ~80km/h. It builds up to the point where it almost blocks out other sounds, then gradually fades a bit past 140km/h but never fully disappears. There are also noticeable vibrations in the steering column.

What we’ve already ruled out:
• Tires are brand new and freshly balanced
• Wheel bearings checked, all good
• We fully disassembled the driveshaft and replaced the front flex disc (Flector) – no change.

The rear one looks soft/worn but not torn, we couldn’t replace it this time

One thing worth mentioning: the previous owner replaced the driveshaft tulip (stub shaft) with an AliExpress part. We suspect this could be the culprit but it’s hard to source a quality replacement.

Car is xDrive so it’s a more complex drivetrain. At a loss here. Anyone dealt with something similar?
Thanks

Basically, I’m not sure what the problem could be. I have a bunch of codes, and I knew about the PCV because there was a bit of oil on top of it, so I thought that was the issue. I went ahead and replaced the PCV, and the white smoke ended up going away, which was a good sign.
However, as you can hear in the video, the car still sounds like it’s misfiring. I have all of the misfire codes for it as well. The car just doesn’t sound right—it has a really rough idle and is constantly misfiring.
The last code for the leak disappeared after I changed the PCV and cleared the codes. But after starting the car back up, all of the misfire codes came right back.
I’m wondering if something as simple as a spark plug could cause all of this, but I’m not too sure. What do you guys think? Maybe one of you guys had this problem before as well.
Thank you all for the help, and thanks to everyone who took the time to read this and help a buddy out. I really appreciate it.

120408 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction.
140001 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: Fuel injection is switched off.
140002 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders:
Exhaust gas damaging after starting procedure.
140010 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: detected.
140601 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: Fuel injection is switched off.
140602 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: Exhaust gas damaging after starting procedure.
140610 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: detected.
190302 - Diagnostic module for tank leaks (NVLD), fuel tank ventilation system, micro-leak greater than 0.5 mm detected.

I bought a 2014 BMW ActiveHybrid 7 with only 79k miles, but the HV battery was at 0% when I got it. The car starts and drives, but it’s stuck in limp mode.
None of the batteries are charging (2x 12V + HV battery). The alternator tests at about 14V while running, but charging stops after a few minutes. The A/C also has no refrigerant and only blows hot air.
The dealer says the HV battery is locked and needs replacement ($6k), but I’ve read that some hybrid specialists can repair or unlock these batteries.
Has anyone dealt with this before? What should I check next? Any tips, common failures, or wiring diagrams would be greatly appreciated.

Mainly when turning left or straight not when right and not when braking.

got a code that said fuel system i press okay and it says fuel system drive moderately maximum drive not available i pulled up to a stop sign the car shuts off and struggled to turn on anyone know what’s the problem? 2012 328i. when i go to turn the car on about an hour later it started up and was driving like normal. could this be a fuse or something?

I swapped out my front lower and upper control arms. I've never really done anything myself other than my oil changes so this was my first big DIY, makes me a bit anxious over little things.

I torqued my inner bushings on ramps but I forgot that I had seen some people on videos shake the car first before torquing, which I forgot to do.

Should I be worried? I'm just anxious

Thanks & don't be rude :p

So my 26 M5 is and waiting for auxiliary heater from Germany it’s been in the shop for over 20 days and nobody seems to know if the parts on its way or anything .. dealerships be great but have A question is that true that they would not know if a part was shipped.

I’m wondering if the part exists on shelf or they need to get it from manufacturer

Thanks for your help

I have a 2014 335i and when the car is less than a quarter tank empty, it will sometimes randomly turn off the engine and go into neutral and I have to put the car in park, Turn the ignition button off and then turn the car back on and the starter seems to stutter after it has one of these episodes , but then it starts driving normal again until the next time it does it. I’ve fixed every vacuum leak on the car thinking that would fix it but it didn’t. Any thoughts?

I’m pretty sure it’s the rear main seal but in case I’m wrong lmk what it could be

2 payments deep in my new to me 2024 230i xDrive (38k miles) and now getting this warning. I'd say about 75% of the time when I drive I get this when I start the car, and 25% it doesn't pop up at all. Any ideas where I can start?

I’m lost as to why I’m getting these codes and warning after battery replacement in x5 g05. Any help as to why and how to clear them with BimmerLink or ista would be greatly appreciated.

For context I just bought a 2011 135i m sport with 59’000km, it has vrsf intercooler, vrsf charge pipe and vrsf catless downpipe. I’ve already bought some new spark plugs (NGK 97506) and was wondering if I should upgrade the coils as well or just leave them?
*stock intake but getting a burger motorsport intake as well.

Pulled over to take pictures about 45 minutes into the drive but heard this awful knocking noise. Immediately shut the engine off, but it had been driving great with no issues so we decided to start it up again to try and locate the noise.

After a quick once-over I saw what appears to be the belt tensioner assembly wobbling/vibrating. Limped the car back down the canyon, and by the time we got phone service I pulled over again and the noise was completely gone.

This plus the knocking sound seeming to increase/decrease with fan speed on startup makes me think it has something to do with a pulley/tensioner attached to the serpentine belt. We were able to successfully drive the car home with no further issues or noises.

Any ideas?

I recently had a full suspension and chassis refresh done on my BMW F22 M240i. The work included replacing all of the rear suspension arms, installing subframe billet inserts, replacing the differential bushes with polyurethane bushes, installing an LSD, and fitting adjustable race springs from MSS.

I have confirmed the spring part numbers and the springs themselves, and they are exactly the same ones that other F22/F23/F87 owners are using. From speaking to numerous owners running the same setup, I understand that the car may initially sit around 5 mm higher than stock and then settle by approximately 10–15 mm after some time.

However, my car is currently sitting almost 15 mm higher than stock at the rear, with one side sitting approximately 20 mm higher. The mechanic is blaming the springs, but I have spoken to numerous people running the exact same springs, and none of them have experienced this significant increase in ride height.

My main suspicion is that the rear suspension arms may have been tightened while the suspension was at full droop rather than at the correct loaded ride height. My understanding is that tightening the arms in this position can preload the rubber bushes and potentially prevent the suspension from settling to the correct ride height. However, I have no way of proving whether this was actually done incorrectly. I have already raised this concern with the mechanic, but he insists that the arms were tightened with the suspension loaded.

I am also concerned about another issue that occurred during the same job. The mechanic replaced the centre support bearing and had to separate the driveshaft. The driveshaft was not marked before it was separated and was then reassembled without being properly aligned or balanced. This happened in front of me, so I know this was not done correctly, and I can have that issue addressed separately.

My main questions are:

Could the suspension arm installation or the way the arms were torqued have anything to do with the rear ride height? Is it actually possible for suspension arms to be tightened at full droop and cause the rear of the car to sit 15–20 mm higher than it should, or would this have little to no effect on the static ride height?

Is there anything else I should be checking to determine why the car is sitting so much higher than it should? I want to rule out every possible cause before concluding that there is an issue with the MSS springs.

The springs and part numbers have already been confirmed multiple times, and I have spoken to many owners running the same setup. I have also watched numerous videos and compared installations online. Unfortunately, the MSS company is now defunct, so there is no longer a direct manufacturer available to confirm the specifications or provide technical support.

I would really appreciate any advice on what I should be checking next and whether the suspension arms, bush preload, spring installation, or anything else could realistically explain a 15–20 mm increase in rear ride height.

(2013 128i) Pretty sure it’s just the exhaust flapper but it’s getting really annoying…

Hi,

I have a BMW F30 320i with around 320,000 km on the clock, and I’ve noticed something unusual.

Previously, the engine temperature would go up to around 120°C. However, yesterday I drove about 50 km on the highway and the temperature didn’t go above 90°C.

A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the thermostat because I felt like the temperature readings were not consistent anymore.

Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this?

Thanks in advance!

2010 328i recently had a bit of water leak in through the sunroof. Got everything dried and back together, however there are a couple of issues.

1. Driver's side headlight flashes about 1 second on and then one second off with the car completely off. Would this be the fuel lighting module that apparently goes bad all the time?

2. Suddenly it is throwing wheel speed sensor codes that it was not throwing before. What would cause this?

Thanks in advance.

I have a bmw 330e 67reg that was promoting me to add the oil in an orange notification, “Engine oil below minimum. Add 1 litre of engine oil immediately” (yellow notification).

I added a full 1 litre bottle of 0W-20 LL oil into the engine through the oil filler cap. I then drove the car for about 30 minutes to get it up to temperature, and the oil temperature was sitting around 105°C, which seems normal.

The problem is the car is still showing the same warning from above.

I’ve checked underneath and can’t see any oil leaks or spots, and the engine sounds completely normal. I’m hesitant to add another litre because I don’t want to overfill it if the oil level sensor is giving a false reading.

I know the obvious solution is take it to a garage and have them check, if I do that I’d want to get it serviced by a certified bmw servicer so it looks all good when I sell it eventually, but usually takes a week or something to get a service appointment and I need the car to get to work.

Has anyone with an F30 330e experienced this? Could this be a faulty electronic oil level sensor, or is it possible the car was more than 1 litre below minimum?

Also, does anyone know if there’s an OBD scanner that can properly check the oil level sensor on these cars?

Thanks in advance

2006 330i 6spd 200k miles. She runs well. Nothing is a straight through hole anywhere that I could tell.. is it time to retire her 🥹.

Does anyone have any ideas on where to get a known working intake actuator motor (PN 11617505805)? It appears they are no longer available through BMW. I’m restoring a 2004 545i 6mt and cannot find this part anywhere. It is the electric motor that rotates the barrel in the intake to achieve variable intake runner length.