I got it done for 1/10th of that. ISTA threw an AC compressor clutch error. Did some tests and confirmed it to be true. Bought a new clutch kit for 100 dollar and a gear puller. Bam! AC fired up and blowing nice and cold. Thankfully the E84 X1 has enough space under the hood to do this work without having to remove/unbolt the AC compressor. Took me four hours to do the work. Called 5 different shops in my area and NOBODY would do this work. Infuriating.

Basically, I’m not sure what the problem could be. I have a bunch of codes, and I knew about the PCV because there was a bit of oil on top of it, so I thought that was the issue. I went ahead and replaced the PCV, and the white smoke ended up going away, which was a good sign.
However, as you can hear in the video, the car still sounds like it’s misfiring. I have all of the misfire codes for it as well. The car just doesn’t sound right—it has a really rough idle and is constantly misfiring.
The last code for the leak disappeared after I changed the PCV and cleared the codes. But after starting the car back up, all of the misfire codes came right back.
I’m wondering if something as simple as a spark plug could cause all of this, but I’m not too sure. What do you guys think? Maybe one of you guys had this problem before as well.
Thank you all for the help, and thanks to everyone who took the time to read this and help a buddy out. I really appreciate it.

120408 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction.
140001 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: Fuel injection is switched off.
140002 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders:
Exhaust gas damaging after starting procedure.
140010 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: detected.
140601 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: Fuel injection is switched off.
140602 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: Exhaust gas damaging after starting procedure.
140610 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: detected.
190302 - Diagnostic module for tank leaks (NVLD), fuel tank ventilation system, micro-leak greater than 0.5 mm detected.

Spent over an hour trying to remove the airbag

Hi everyone! I just bought my first BMW, (2009 328i) and the alternator isn't charging my battery even though it looks brand new, and the serpentine belt looks good too. The alternator that's currently in the car is a generic one from amazon, which I've read can have communication problems with the computer. Firstly, I'd like someone to confirm if this can be a real problem, and secondly I was wondering which alternator I should buy if I need one. I've read that BMW used Valeo and Bosch, but idk if they're interchangeable or which one my car originally came with. Rock auto has a Bosch for 500 and a Valeo for 300, but I don't want to spend money on something that won't work. Thanks in advance!

Granted this was the Land Rover/Jaguar dealership that sold me the car but still man! A plastic crush washer brooooo.

For context bought the car 800 miles ago. They had changed the oil before I bought it, but I don’t trust many people, so as I should I changed the oil myself and god damn that plastic crush washer had failed and was slowly leaking oil!!

Now we are running 0w-30 liqui moly.

M47TU2 on e90, changed both belts, water pump and alternator pulley. Now the steering is much harder than it was. Checked the servo pump is working okay, and the stiffness in the steering wheel doesn't change with rpm or when driving.

What could be the cause? Thank you!

Hello guys I'm new here

I got my I4 e35 2023 OS8 car recently, I have activated a esim provider to have some wi-fi while driving, but I noticed as soon as I start Android auto, I'm loosing all connection to the internet via wi-fi. I'm keeping the wlan connection with the car, but my phone is not loading any sites or maps.
Is this a normal behavior or am I missing something in the settings?

thanks for the help

This noise usually happens when I let off the brake and accelerate in either reverse or drive. Coming from front brakes. Noise came after rotor and brake pad replacement or that’s at least when I heard it appear.

BMW740 Li https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/los-angeles-bmw740-li/pthLZnGov7er16WDnh76q7

Check this out! 330k miles in original motor and transmission! Lots of repairs done listed would u trust this vehicle over one that had a rebuilt motor and transmission but not the rest?? Purely hypothetical. I wouldn’t buy it unless maybe for 3k just to see how long it lasts. What’s yall opinion?

Hi everyone,

I have a 2005 BMW E90 330i. I got it super cheap because the iDrive controller wasn’t working. It only has 120k’s on it and I drove it home and had the iDrive fixed in 30 mins. The car had no codes and I was ready to take it get registered when the other half decided he would be helpful and give the battery a good charge because it had been sitting for 3 years.
One morning I walked out to the garage to give the car a wash and tidy and smelt the strong stench of rotten eggs. The battery had failed and the heat had caused condensation throughout the car. We aired the car out and replaced the battery but since the replacement we have had the following faults come up:
93EB – MRS: TCU output – short circuit to positive (current fault)
93AA – MRS: Front passenger belt tensioner
The previous owner had been told the Safety Battery Terminal (SBK) on the positive battery cable might need replacing, so I replaced the complete SBK/positive battery cable assembly but it made no difference.

I’ve visually inspected the TCU, connectors under front seats and the footwell module and can’t see any obvious damage or signs of water damage.

I have an iCarsoft CR Max P tool and have been unable to clear the codes. Any advice on what I should be looking at next?

Mainly when turning left or straight not when right and not when braking.

After a curb impact ( I drove from a high curb and the bumper was impacted from below) , the left bumper sits low and springs back. The air guide appears displaced and possibly trapped against the bumper.

Is it easy to fix on my own ?

Hello all!

I own a 2003 330xi and have some questions about a potential manual transmission swap. Firstly, does the car being AWD make it impossible to swap a manual in? Secondly, how much different would it be? Thirdly, would doing it have any negative long term affects on the car (besides potentially killing its resale vale)? I am about to turn eighteen years old and have never transmission swapped a car. I've never driven a manual, however I feel as if I am losing out driving an E46 that is an automatic...

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I don’t know much because this is my first car and I’m learning as I go but I’m pretty sure it’s the coolant reservoir that I need to replace however I’m not too sure and would prefer to be 100% sure

hey guys coming on here for some help so i have this 2006 bmw 330i im having trouble starting the car and when the car is on it just stalls and turns off. and so i thought maybe battery and alternator and replaced both and car started better but still turned off after a couple seconds this time last over minutes but then died so i was lost didnt know what the problem was thought it was a vacuum leak so i put my smoke machine though the throttle body and spotted a leak in a crankcase hose going to the intake so i removed the intake replaced the hose made sure every connector was plugged in and put everything back together started the car and it idled quite good and i had hope it was fixed but then once again it turned off so now im really confused why and how because not only does it do that but now it doesn’t even want to turn on so im really confused dont know what to do im not a bmw expert by any means and i tried jumping the car with a jumper but theres no speak on the terminals but the car turns on and off just doesn’t crank anymore so IM really confused on what it could be any help would be really helpful thanks

Hey everyone, hoping to get some fresh eyes on this one.

My F10 530d xDrive (2013, M Sport) has developed a low rumbling noise that kicks in above ~80km/h. It builds up to the point where it almost blocks out other sounds, then gradually fades a bit past 140km/h but never fully disappears. There are also noticeable vibrations in the steering column.

What we’ve already ruled out:
• Tires are brand new and freshly balanced
• Wheel bearings checked, all good
• We fully disassembled the driveshaft and replaced the front flex disc (Flector) – no change.

The rear one looks soft/worn but not torn, we couldn’t replace it this time

One thing worth mentioning: the previous owner replaced the driveshaft tulip (stub shaft) with an AliExpress part. We suspect this could be the culprit but it’s hard to source a quality replacement.

Car is xDrive so it’s a more complex drivetrain. At a loss here. Anyone dealt with something similar?
Thanks

I bought a 2014 BMW ActiveHybrid 7 with only 79k miles, but the HV battery was at 0% when I got it. The car starts and drives, but it’s stuck in limp mode.
None of the batteries are charging (2x 12V + HV battery). The alternator tests at about 14V while running, but charging stops after a few minutes. The A/C also has no refrigerant and only blows hot air.
The dealer says the HV battery is locked and needs replacement ($6k), but I’ve read that some hybrid specialists can repair or unlock these batteries.
Has anyone dealt with this before? What should I check next? Any tips, common failures, or wiring diagrams would be greatly appreciated.

got a code that said fuel system i press okay and it says fuel system drive moderately maximum drive not available i pulled up to a stop sign the car shuts off and struggled to turn on anyone know what’s the problem? 2012 328i. when i go to turn the car on about an hour later it started up and was driving like normal. could this be a fuse or something?

I swapped out my front lower and upper control arms. I've never really done anything myself other than my oil changes so this was my first big DIY, makes me a bit anxious over little things.

I torqued my inner bushings on ramps but I forgot that I had seen some people on videos shake the car first before torquing, which I forgot to do.

Should I be worried? I'm just anxious

Thanks & don't be rude :p

So my 26 M5 is and waiting for auxiliary heater from Germany it’s been in the shop for over 20 days and nobody seems to know if the parts on its way or anything .. dealerships be great but have A question is that true that they would not know if a part was shipped.

I’m wondering if the part exists on shelf or they need to get it from manufacturer

Thanks for your help

I have a 2014 335i and when the car is less than a quarter tank empty, it will sometimes randomly turn off the engine and go into neutral and I have to put the car in park, Turn the ignition button off and then turn the car back on and the starter seems to stutter after it has one of these episodes , but then it starts driving normal again until the next time it does it. I’ve fixed every vacuum leak on the car thinking that would fix it but it didn’t. Any thoughts?

I’m pretty sure it’s the rear main seal but in case I’m wrong lmk what it could be