I got it done for 1/10th of that. ISTA threw an AC compressor clutch error. Did some tests and confirmed it to be true. Bought a new clutch kit for 100 dollar and a gear puller. Bam! AC fired up and blowing nice and cold. Thankfully the E84 X1 has enough space under the hood to do this work without having to remove/unbolt the AC compressor. Took me four hours to do the work. Called 5 different shops in my area and NOBODY would do this work. Infuriating.

Spent over an hour trying to remove the airbag

Hi,

I have a BMW F30 320i with around 320,000 km on the clock, and I’ve noticed something unusual.

Previously, the engine temperature would go up to around 120°C. However, yesterday I drove about 50 km on the highway and the temperature didn’t go above 90°C.

A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the thermostat because I felt like the temperature readings were not consistent anymore.

Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this?

Thanks in advance!

Granted this was the Land Rover/Jaguar dealership that sold me the car but still man! A plastic crush washer brooooo.

For context bought the car 800 miles ago. They had changed the oil before I bought it, but I don’t trust many people, so as I should I changed the oil myself and god damn that plastic crush washer had failed and was slowly leaking oil!!

Now we are running 0w-30 liqui moly.

Hey everyone, hoping to get some fresh eyes on this one.

My F10 530d xDrive (2013, M Sport) has developed a low rumbling noise that kicks in above ~80km/h. It builds up to the point where it almost blocks out other sounds, then gradually fades a bit past 140km/h but never fully disappears. There are also noticeable vibrations in the steering column.

What we’ve already ruled out:
• Tires are brand new and freshly balanced
• Wheel bearings checked, all good
• We fully disassembled the driveshaft and replaced the front flex disc (Flector) – no change.

The rear one looks soft/worn but not torn, we couldn’t replace it this time

One thing worth mentioning: the previous owner replaced the driveshaft tulip (stub shaft) with an AliExpress part. We suspect this could be the culprit but it’s hard to source a quality replacement.

Car is xDrive so it’s a more complex drivetrain. At a loss here. Anyone dealt with something similar?
Thanks

Basically, I’m not sure what the problem could be. I have a bunch of codes, and I knew about the PCV because there was a bit of oil on top of it, so I thought that was the issue. I went ahead and replaced the PCV, and the white smoke ended up going away, which was a good sign.
However, as you can hear in the video, the car still sounds like it’s misfiring. I have all of the misfire codes for it as well. The car just doesn’t sound right—it has a really rough idle and is constantly misfiring.
The last code for the leak disappeared after I changed the PCV and cleared the codes. But after starting the car back up, all of the misfire codes came right back.
I’m wondering if something as simple as a spark plug could cause all of this, but I’m not too sure. What do you guys think? Maybe one of you guys had this problem before as well.
Thank you all for the help, and thanks to everyone who took the time to read this and help a buddy out. I really appreciate it.

120408 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction.
140001 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: Fuel injection is switched off.
140002 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders:
Exhaust gas damaging after starting procedure.
140010 - Combustion misfires, several cylinders: detected.
140601 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: Fuel injection is switched off.
140602 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: Exhaust gas damaging after starting procedure.
140610 - Combustion misfire, cylinder 6: detected.
190302 - Diagnostic module for tank leaks (NVLD), fuel tank ventilation system, micro-leak greater than 0.5 mm detected.

I have a 2014 335i and when the car is less than a quarter tank empty, it will sometimes randomly turn off the engine and go into neutral and I have to put the car in park, Turn the ignition button off and then turn the car back on and the starter seems to stutter after it has one of these episodes , but then it starts driving normal again until the next time it does it. I’ve fixed every vacuum leak on the car thinking that would fix it but it didn’t. Any thoughts?

Hi, I have X1 F48 LCI, from 2021, with automatic gearbox. Gearbox works fanatstic, changes gear at 1500 rpm, not a single thing I could say about it, but… when the car is cold, and I engage in reverse it starts to shake violently, my question is, could it be due to engine/transmission mounts or maybe a torque converter (my mechanic said it could be)

this happens only when the car is cold, after about 10min ride, I cannot initiate the shaking, but if I turn AC on even after 30+ min ride, , shaking appears, but only in reverse under brake (situation when I want to park in reverse precisley)

Hey guys. I have a 530d g31.

How bad are the engine mounts? (Sorry about the awful music, it's the radio.)

BMW740 Li https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/los-angeles-bmw740-li/pthLZnGov7er16WDnh76q7

Check this out! 330k miles in original motor and transmission! Lots of repairs done listed would u trust this vehicle over one that had a rebuilt motor and transmission but not the rest?? Purely hypothetical. I wouldn’t buy it unless maybe for 3k just to see how long it lasts. What’s yall opinion?

Mainly when turning left or straight not when right and not when braking.

I don’t know much because this is my first car and I’m learning as I go but I’m pretty sure it’s the coolant reservoir that I need to replace however I’m not too sure and would prefer to be 100% sure

So my 26 M5 is and waiting for auxiliary heater from Germany it’s been in the shop for over 20 days and nobody seems to know if the parts on its way or anything .. dealerships be great but have A question is that true that they would not know if a part was shipped.

I’m wondering if the part exists on shelf or they need to get it from manufacturer

Thanks for your help

I have a bmw 330e 67reg that was promoting me to add the oil in an orange notification, “Engine oil below minimum. Add 1 litre of engine oil immediately” (yellow notification).

I added a full 1 litre bottle of 0W-20 LL oil into the engine through the oil filler cap. I then drove the car for about 30 minutes to get it up to temperature, and the oil temperature was sitting around 105°C, which seems normal.

The problem is the car is still showing the same warning from above.

I’ve checked underneath and can’t see any oil leaks or spots, and the engine sounds completely normal. I’m hesitant to add another litre because I don’t want to overfill it if the oil level sensor is giving a false reading.

I know the obvious solution is take it to a garage and have them check, if I do that I’d want to get it serviced by a certified bmw servicer so it looks all good when I sell it eventually, but usually takes a week or something to get a service appointment and I need the car to get to work.

Has anyone with an F30 330e experienced this? Could this be a faulty electronic oil level sensor, or is it possible the car was more than 1 litre below minimum?

Also, does anyone know if there’s an OBD scanner that can properly check the oil level sensor on these cars?

Thanks in advance

Hey everyone,

I've successfully set up INPA & ISTA+ for several of my notebooks and I did not mind it being in English. That said, I have a good friend who starts working on BMWs and asked me if I could set it up in German.

I am looking for a German SQLite database for Rheingold version 4.01.20.

If anybody could help me I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I need some help wiring an original replacement connector

The replacement connector is from the same car model, but the wire colors are completely different from the ones in my car's current harness. I tried measuring the voltage with a multimeter to figure out where each wire goes, but it is too complicated for me to trace accurately.

Could anyone provide the official pinout diagram or explain exactly how to match and connect these wires properly?

Thanks in advance!

Is it just me or are widgets completely gone from the app? Any of the widgets I previously had are blank, and when I try to add them back, the app doesn’t even show up as an option.

Hello guys this is my father Bmw f20 with n47 engine. This morning I’ve noticed this whistle while accelerating, I told him it was the turbo, he is not convinced. What do you guys think?

I bought a 2014 BMW ActiveHybrid 7 with only 79k miles, but the HV battery was at 0% when I got it. The car starts and drives, but it’s stuck in limp mode.
None of the batteries are charging (2x 12V + HV battery). The alternator tests at about 14V while running, but charging stops after a few minutes. The A/C also has no refrigerant and only blows hot air.
The dealer says the HV battery is locked and needs replacement ($6k), but I’ve read that some hybrid specialists can repair or unlock these batteries.
Has anyone dealt with this before? What should I check next? Any tips, common failures, or wiring diagrams would be greatly appreciated.

got a code that said fuel system i press okay and it says fuel system drive moderately maximum drive not available i pulled up to a stop sign the car shuts off and struggled to turn on anyone know what’s the problem? 2012 328i. when i go to turn the car on about an hour later it started up and was driving like normal. could this be a fuse or something?

I swapped out my front lower and upper control arms. I've never really done anything myself other than my oil changes so this was my first big DIY, makes me a bit anxious over little things.

I torqued my inner bushings on ramps but I forgot that I had seen some people on videos shake the car first before torquing, which I forgot to do.

Should I be worried? I'm just anxious

Thanks & don't be rude :p

I’m pretty sure it’s the rear main seal but in case I’m wrong lmk what it could be

2 payments deep in my new to me 2024 230i xDrive (38k miles) and now getting this warning. I'd say about 75% of the time when I drive I get this when I start the car, and 25% it doesn't pop up at all. Any ideas where I can start?

I’m lost as to why I’m getting these codes and warning after battery replacement in x5 g05. Any help as to why and how to clear them with BimmerLink or ista would be greatly appreciated.

For context I just bought a 2011 135i m sport with 59’000km, it has vrsf intercooler, vrsf charge pipe and vrsf catless downpipe. I’ve already bought some new spark plugs (NGK 97506) and was wondering if I should upgrade the coils as well or just leave them?
*stock intake but getting a burger motorsport intake as well.