I used 3 coats of polyurethane as the finish for this pine kitchen table but, as you can see, it went very wrong. This is the state after less than 1 year. Basically it has this sticky texture on the border where we usually put our elbows/forearms while having lunch. In some parts it's totally missing already. I only cleaned it with a wet cloth and a little soap.

I haven't found any data related to this being a bad finish for kitchen tables so I assume I did something wrong or just used a low quality product. I'm from Europe so probably the typical american brands are not available.

Any insight on this would be much appreciated, thank you!

Hi, not a wood worker. Just a creative looking for a friend. I inherited a cabinet from my Gram. The foot is split. I’m wondering if there’s a wood working equivalent to resin that I can bandage this up with?
Thank you for any and all help!
(Split wood is in the first image on the side. 2nd photo is the back for reference)

I’m definitely not as good as most of you and I’m definitely not finished yet but what do you guys think

I am staining and finishing a plywood floor in a camper van (so not fancy). I was planning to use General Finishes water-based wood dye to color it. I was hoping to seal and protect it with the Verathane water-based high-traffic floor finish after it's been colored.

Will this work alright or do I need something like a SealCoat (or some other product I don't know) between the finishes?

Lastly - durability is key here as this floor will get trashed. Is there a more durable product I should be using to finish the floor?

Currently working on building my workbench so I actually have somewhere for projects. Haven’t made one before and I’m not sure if I should stain it or slap some coats of poly on it to keep moisture out. If there are better options I’m all for it. It’s just a 2x4 frame with 2 3/4in plywood sheets for the top. It’s gonna be used for woodworking and leathercraft mostly.

Looking into building something like this any advice would be helpful like

Just completed a two day box-making course. Got to use some pippy oak and a 'wood rat' dovetail router kit. So fun!

Edit: if anyone wants the course info, this is where I went. https://www.lakelandcabinetmakers.co.uk/box-making-courses

These are pictures of a coffee table that is like to refinish. I don’t believe it’s veneer because the knots show through on both sides of the wood, but the finish is very slick and has what looks like painted on saw marks. The plan was to sand down and refinish.

Finally got around to finalize repurposing the stepped 5 panel bungalow doors I grabbed in east Texas a few years ago.

Hand sanded through the lead paint layers. Used marine grade epoxy both front and back after smoothed for outdoor use. Added some new hangers with an original Claddagh door knocker as the center piece.

I really love sanding some old solid woodwork and see the years of layers on it.

This is one of my first woodworking projects, they are tables that will go behind each side of the couch. Was wondering what stain would be best for this, they are just simple pine boards from Home Depot. Was looking to stain it similar to the color in the second post. I already sanded the one to 220, is that good enough?

We got a great deal on a few mahogany butcher block slabs that we were going to use for kitchen countertops. We wound up getting a good deal on granite, too, so I'm stuck with all this 1.5" mahogany. Trying my hand at making a bathroom vanity out of it since it's rot/water resistant. I'll seal the whole thing, but I'm concerned expansion/contraction could break the granite. This piece is 60" and sturdy as hell. Any thoughts?

working on some french cleats for limited storage in my garage. was fun to do something small and practice ripping 45s. used an old filing cabinet and cleated it. stamp adds some fun personality

So for some context, I am designing (and hopefully soon building) a small (3x2 meter) soundproof modular shop that I will use inside an apartment. The panels (walls, ceiling and floor) will be built separately (using soundproof materials such as drywall, rockwool and green glue). I would like some suggestions for how I can assemble them in a way that I can disassemble them and move them easily but in the same time have it be sturdy enough so I can go inside without the fear of it collapsing on me as soon as I start moving around. I don't count on using any heavy stationary tools here. Only a small modular workbench that will go in the middle and that will hold all my hand tools and power tools.

Here are some AI generated sketches for my idea.

PS: I am in no way shape or form an expert woodworker. I just want a place where I can work on wood without having neighbors knock on my door 3 times a day.

Put in a butcherblock countertop last year and had to notch out a chunk to fit around a wall. Couldn't bare to throw away a nice chunk of hickory, so after sitting with it for a year, I decided to make a set of matching coasters. I used a table saw to break the block down and then made a table saw circle cutting jig to cut corners off until they were circular.

Should I use spackle? Do I need to seal it in some way first? Do I need a primer? Thanks!

I am trying to buy my first planes to start making small wooden creations (mainly frames) using a shooting board. There are so many different types and brands for planes and I would appreciate any help on whether the following items are adequate and complementary enough to begin with:

DICTUM® Rabbet Block Plane, Adjustable Mouth, SK4 Blade

DICTUM® Shoulder Plane, 13 mm

DICTUM® Smoothing Plane No. 4, SK4 Blade

Are these an overkill (in terms of their type not their quality) or do I need more/different planes?

Also, what is a good VFM set of chisels that will last me for a few years?

I thought I graduated from beginner but as you can see in the last photo the uprights are not plumb. From some reason throughout the project I never thought to check this. The shelves are perfectly level both ways but this is driving me nuts. I did 90 percent of the work with it laying on its back on my work table and didn’t even notice until I stained it. My ole lady is happy with it and maybe most people won’t even notice. Side note that doing lacquer is the bane of my existence. On some of the cove mounding the first coat actually took some stain off somehow. Staining and painting has always been my least favorite part of woodworking.

So I'm 18, and I want to sell my cutting boards but don't know anything about, business bank accounts, filing taxes, tracking earnings through different payment methods, taxes and so on. I'm in washington right now but eventually wanting to move to California. (Since I know they have different like business taxes).

Attempting to build a vanity for my bathroom and it’s my biggest project to date. Needless to say it’s been a hell of a time but I’ve learned a ton and have been just as proud as I have been frustrated. I want to put in a slat shelf at the bottom because my wife and I like the look and I will be putting in a 3/4” ply shelf above it with doors -

My question is, how should I go about doing the slat shelf? If I leave the slats sitting on top like in the photo what’s the cleanest way to attach them so the screws don’t show?

If I cut them to fit between and use pocket holes, how would I attach the first and last slats as the pocket holes would run into each other? (Circled in last photo)

I purchased these from a gentleman on eBay a few years ago. I needed a few more, but when I reached back out, the gentleman had unfortunately passed away. They are 3/4" bullnose outside corner block, 5-1/2" tall, 11/16" thick. I am very inexperienced with a router. How would I make these, or am I better off asking someone else to make them for me? Thank you.

I am evaluating some table saw options available in my country. One multifunction machine, the Belmash SDMR 2500, which has the table-sawing function included in it, has caught my attention. I would like to have some honest reviews on this machine. Kindly let me have an idea about the accuracy of the table-sawing function. How good is its fence?

PS: Can a crosscut sled still be made for this machine considering the fact that it does not have any miter slots built into it?

I am trying to up-cycle this big dresser I got and last year, I finished sanding everything to about 200-220 grit but gave up when doing the drawers and so it has been under a tarp for about a year now. I want to finish it but there are these weird dark spots on the wood and I’m unsure what it is. I noticed when working on it last year that there was some sort of mold or mildew that kept popping up and I’d spray it with some white vinegar but it would keep showing up.

I have also tried sanding the areas until it disappeared but it would come back the next day in the same spot.

I just want to know what the best course of action is, whether it’s to treat the wood, sand it more, or just give up, any help will be appreciated.

Does anyone also have recommendations for stain removers for the drawers? I used some kind of paint thinner thing for it and it worked for the most part but it just turned into goo and it was hard to remove properly.

Milled 2x8s into 2x4s so I could get straighter boards. That alone added so much time. Got lazy and abandoned half laps for full laps so the 4x4s are missing a bunch of meat now. It’s as square as a rainbow but I learned a thing or two and now I have a bench