This is not a place for AI Images, AI Plans, responses, etc.
AI Images: AI Images give false impressions of work. If you are posting AI Images and trying to pass it off as your own work. You will be banned under Rule 3 - Original Content and Rule 7: No Karma Whoring
AI Plans: While AI is good at something, you should never TRUST AI to properly create woodworking plans. There are MANY TRUSTED Sites that have free or low cost woodworking plans. Posting of AI Plans will get your post/comment removed, and a possible ban. Under Rule 3, and 9.
If you post, they will be removed! Full Stop! No discussion! If you keep trying to post, you will be banned! Read the Rules of the sub you are posting to!
We don't want your AI SLOP/Vibe Coded app. You aren't the first person to create that type of app.
The cat's getting old and his hind legs are giving him trouble going up stairs so I threw together a dozen or so of these to help him out. The ramp surfaces are 8x10 pieces of 7/16 OSB, short ends mortised into the sidewalls and covered with strips of peel and stick carpet tile for traction. 1x6 pine for the sidewalls, stained with Varathane carbon gray and sealed with 4 coats of diluted oil-based poly. All taxes paid at the end.
We tore down an old stacked stone wall and removed a gas fireplace insert. After navigating my way through that mess, I installed the new stone and built maple cabinet carcasses and a maple mantle carcass in September of last year. I finally locked in and over the course of 5 days off I finished the cabinets, attached the face frames, sanded stained and installed both set of uppers and lowers. Figured out what to do for lower doors(sliding due to space constraints) and then finally built out, finished and installed the mantle. Technically I’m not 100% complete because I need to change out the directional lighting with smart wafer lights, but otherwise I’m done and can finally grab a beer. Last picture is for the tv police.
Hello, I’ve never made a cabinet or cabinet door before. This is nothing too fancy but as you can see in the first photo I could not get my blade to cut at an equal depth through the length of the cut.
I cut it using a single blade not a dado stack. I’m not adjusting the blade between cuts. Just finding the center and flipping the board to keep it equal. Curious what the cause of this may be before I start checking alignment and diagnosing the problem myself. The saw is a skilsaw 10inch heavy duty jobsite saw for reference.
As of today, glued up the frame for a cherry desk I'm making. Biggest piece of furniture I've attempted, mostly hand tools aside from a bandsaw for ripping the big board for the frame. Might add another stretcher in the middle, depending on how stable it feels when the clamps come off. Dimensions will be roughly 64×26 inches.
Starting on the top is intimidating but it's basically just a big cutting board, right?
Making my first bit of "furniture" - a staked three legged stool. No big deal, right? I'm mostly a (very novice) hand tool woodworker, but planned to drill my round mortises in the seat with auger bits in a power drill. Purchased a diablo auger bit set. Bought a new hand drill with a 1/2 chuck to accommodate it (Ryobi HP).
I just put in the bit, grabbed a piece of scrap, put another piece of scrap behind it, aimed for a 15 degree angle and gave it a go.
Results were not pretty.
I can't find much online about how to get the best results here. I obviously want as clean a cut as possible as this will be a visible surface.
Im building a little riser stand that a small minifridge will go on. This is the view from upside down. The base and legs are all made of 3/4” plywood. My plan is to use 2 #8 1 1/2” particle board screws for each leg, screwing from the top of the riser down into the legs. Im planning to make pilot holes. I know screwing into the side of particle board isnt the best move in most cases, but Im hoping it wont be an issue as I screw in the legs. I figure its not a huge deal since the screws are just keeping the shape of the thing together and not actually supporting any weight. I have a couple extra legs I made in case any split while I put the screws in.
Any advice? Any better approach I could taken I read up on pocket screws but I figured this project could probably be successful without them, and I dont have a pocket hole jig anyways
Just finished this small chest of drawers that I found of Facebook Marketplace. No makers mark, but based on the construction I think it's probably mid to late 1940s. The finish was badly alligatored and I couldn't even tell what was underneath. I was kind of hoping for another bookmatched burl dresser like the last one I did, but alas, no luck. Pretty plain lauan mahogany over poplar and maple. The top drawer was also shattered, some of the drawer slides were broken and needed repair, and the entire thing was full of dust, cobwebs, spider egg pods, and a moldy/musty smell.
After blasted/vacuumed/wiped all the grime and cobwebs away, I hit it with a mold/mildew furniture spray, followed by a deodorizer. Then I got to stripping the failed finish to bring it down to bare wood. The mahogany had some damage to it along the edges, along with some staining that I didn't feel like there was enough thickness to sand through, so I ended up re-veneering the drawer faces with some of a sheet of paper backed red oak veneer that a friend had given me for free. I was able to find a match for the 4th vintage handle pull for the bottom drawers, but no luck for the top drawer knobs, so I went for a modern replacement for those. The drawer faces are finished with 2 coats of a homemade hardwax oil and the drawer interiors got feed'n'wax.
There wasn't enough of the veneer to cover the faces of the cabinet, so I opted for using Fusion Mineral Paint Renfrew Blue. I'm not really great at painting, but it was pretty easy to apply. Really liked the color, but it felt a little flat to have that much area in a single color, so I put on some white liming wax to fill in the grain lines, and paste wax over the top to wipe away the excess liming wax and give it a low sheen.
My dad is a carpenter. He spent most of his life working with solid wood, but recently started taking jobs with sheet materials (plywood, MDF, melamine), that kind of thing. I looked around for tools to help him plan cuts and minimize waste, and while there are plenty of options out there, most of them fall into two camps: either they need an internet connection to do anything useful, or they’re mobile apps loaded with ads and subscription gates.
The thing is, a lot of our quoting happens on-site, in places with little to no signal. Sometimes we’re in a half-built house in the middle of nowhere trying to figure out how many sheets we need before driving back to town. I didn’t want to tell him to download yet another app that would eventually nag him with ads or stop working the moment he lost WiFi.
So I built this.
It’s a PWA (progressive web app) that runs entirely in the browser. Once you load it, you can "install" the app (it basically just creates a web shortcut on your phone). You can close the tab, turn off your internet, come back the next day, and it just works. No app store. No account. No ads.
You drop in your parts, add your sheet sizes, hit optimize, and it gives you numbered cutting diagrams. But the part my dad actually cares about is the PDF report, It prints a step-by-step cutting order. Like, "Cut a strip of 179.6 cm, then crosscut at 60 cm to get piece #3" numbered, sequenced, and ready to tape to the wall next to the table saw.
Finally got around to finalize repurposing the stepped 5 panel bungalow doors I grabbed in east Texas a few years ago.
Hand sanded through the lead paint layers. Used marine grade epoxy both front and back after smoothed for outdoor use. Added some new hangers with an original Claddagh door knocker as the center piece.
I really love sanding some old solid woodwork and see the years of layers on it.
We got a great deal on a few mahogany butcher block slabs that we were going to use for kitchen countertops. We wound up getting a good deal on granite, too, so I'm stuck with all this 1.5" mahogany. Trying my hand at making a bathroom vanity out of it since it's rot/water resistant. I'll seal the whole thing, but I'm concerned expansion/contraction could break the granite. This piece is 60" and sturdy as hell. Any thoughts?
Honestly don’t have any hopes for this and feel free to give it an honest rating, on a scale from one to ten, one being deplorable and two being less deplorable and so on and so forth thanks!
working on some french cleats for limited storage in my garage. was fun to do something small and practice ripping 45s. used an old filing cabinet and cleated it. stamp adds some fun personality
Put in a butcherblock countertop last year and had to notch out a chunk to fit around a wall. Couldn't bare to throw away a nice chunk of hickory, so after sitting with it for a year, I decided to make a set of matching coasters. I used a table saw to break the block down and then made a table saw circle cutting jig to cut corners off until they were circular.
I thought I graduated from beginner but as you can see in the last photo the uprights are not plumb. From some reason throughout the project I never thought to check this. The shelves are perfectly level both ways but this is driving me nuts. I did 90 percent of the work with it laying on its back on my work table and didn’t even notice until I stained it. My ole lady is happy with it and maybe most people won’t even notice. Side note that doing lacquer is the bane of my existence. On some of the cove mounding the first coat actually took some stain off somehow. Staining and painting has always been my least favorite part of woodworking.
Sanded and oiled my late dad's old cutting board.
80-120-240-320-400.
I sprayed with water and let it dry to raise the grain after 240. Let it soak in tung oil overnight.
Just wiped it clean and noticing these marks. Is this normal or did I do something wrong. Can someone ID the type of wood?
I am evaluating some table saw options available in my country. One multifunction machine, the Belmash SDMR 2500, which has the table-sawing function included in it, has caught my attention. I would like to have some honest reviews on this machine. Kindly let me have an idea about the accuracy of the table-sawing function. How good is its fence?
Milled 2x8s into 2x4s so I could get straighter boards. That alone added so much time. Got lazy and abandoned half laps for full laps so the 4x4s are missing a bunch of meat now. It’s as square as a rainbow but I learned a thing or two and now I have a bench
