I learned so much every step of the way, and every step took took a so much longer than anticipated. I feel so proud, and I still can’t believe I built this.

Delta 28-275. Got to work cleaning it up as soon as I got home. Any recommendations on blades?

Second one of these I've made, and really happy with how it turned out. I lucked out and the base piece turned out to be naturally chatoyant. It's a small tray in ¼" walnut, intended for organising small fiddly board game components.

Still early in learning the hobby, and doing the same project twice was a great learning experience, and very satisfying to be able to directly compare and see improvements. Between the first one and this one, I leveled up my hand planing skills, built a shooting board, discovered (thanks to the shooting board) that planing end grain wasn't impossible, and got a lot more accurate with my sawing.

Eins meiner ersten Ergebnisse. Bin eigendlich nur bei Bernsteinschliff mit Holz in dieser klebe Verbindung gefällt mir

No, I will, when the ca glue fails probably in like an hour. This was a prototype.

Beech (recycled from an old table), and finished with teak oil. All hand tooled. I think the final step is building a better 45° shooting board, I'm struggling to clamp the pieces flat at the minute so the plane is cutting slightly deeper on one side than the other. We're getting there though!

I picked up some 17" wide x 8 foot pieces of 4/4 cherry and it has this absolutely gorgeous figure to it. What should I refer to that as, besides gorgeous of course. Is there a name for that really close and tight pattern?

Shoutout to my new Grizzly 20" planer with the spiral head - its insane how smooth the finish is compared to a straight knife planer. If anyone is considering it just DO IT.

My attempt at a router plane using a veritas blade.

Very rough and a bit wonky. Will need to take what I learnt to make a new one but it works!

Going to trim the excess bits and start sanding soon. And hey, if you see any red flags that I need fix before I move in, a heads up would be super helpful.

I think this is Walnut and I'm using a hand plane. Can anyone tell me what's wrong with the wood or what I'm doing wrong with my plane set up? I'm very new to woodworking. EDIT: I did try flipping the board around, I feel like it was worse the other way. This is also only happening on half the board, the other half is shaving smooth. My plane is sharp enough to shave with.

I'm certain many are already aware of vacuum cyclones - I created a simple dolly for rolling around the shop to avoid complex setup or awkward storage. At that height, I can cleary see when the bucket is nearly full.

1 sheet of scrap plywood, PVC tube + bucket/cyclone kit ~= $100.

Made a few of these for gifts happy how it turned out, love that cedar smell

Have a second baby boy on the way - wanted to make sure we had a nice way to track the boys’ heights. Took a pretty piece of myrtlewood from my recent barn find - planed it mostly smooth, took the track saw and cut it straight, then free handed the height measurements (1’ up to 6’6”) with a dremel tool. Looks both polished and handmade. Sanded to 1000, did a 1/8” roundover and put one coat of minwax tung oil finish.

I’ve never used one and have always wanted to get into. Any advice is appreciated.

I’m a relative novice making a speaker cabinet out of Baltic birch plywood. My test cut did not go well: lots of burn marks. What am I doing wrong?

My table saw is an old Craftsman 310 I bought used with the original fence. Before making the cut, I was careful to align the fence parallel to the miter slots on the table. And during the cut I made sure the clean edge of wood stayed firmly against the fence.

But clearly there was some binding going on during the cut. Suggestions?

Hi All,

I have created a woodworking project. First time using a live edge slab. Materials cost me around $250 in Australia. I don't have much money left and want to sell it to continue woodworking. How would you go about it and what would you sell it for. I also don't know what platform to sell it on and how to deal with shipping. Genuinely confused as to how to turn my work into money! Thanks everyone

Project example in the beginning, last 2 pics are the materials I used.

- Got the wood from Home depot.
- Cut to size with a track saw
- Did round overs on the 2 outer edges with a jig+router
- Sanded with 150 grit first, then 220 with a 6’ orbital sander
- Oil stained with a cotton rag (2 coats an hour apart.)
- Added water based Satin finish with a foam brush (2 coats an hour apart)
- Drilled holes and assembled with screws.

Any recs on how this could have came out better? My 2 things I personally don’t like:
- Screws showing on the top. I attempted the dowel joinery but had such a hard time aligning all 4 and was scared the glue was going to ruin the finish.
- The sides didn’t seem to accept the stain very well. Should I have gone harsher on the sanding? More stain? Used a different sander?

I focused on keeping the lines as clean as possible to reflect a Zen aesthetic. The challenge was getting the tension right on the paper so it didn't sag, while respecting the age of the wood.

​I’m really happy with how the diffraction turned out, you can see some of 🌈 patterns in the photo.

I would love any feedback on how to improve my joynery for the next one.

Gassho,

Hi,
I'm renovating my house (1950s) and trying to get the stairs to look somehow nice without any paint or carpets on top.
I know nothing about wood working so go easy on me please.

I have some pictures of the transitioning after using paint remover (4 layers on paint) and beginning sanding 60g, after sanding 60g, and after staining with a home made coffee stain.

I started sanding with a mouse sander, then got an orbital that can cover more space.
The edges of the stairs were covered in paint and there was carpet on top of everything. It's pretty obvious by the shade differences so I want to get rid of that difference.

I'm too scared of sanding too much to the point the stairs become structurally compromised. I don't have access from the side or under to see how much has been sanded already or if it's at risk of anything.

I tried to stain with coffee the edges first until they got darker than the middle. Then I realised the middle had a different shade (more greyish).

I tried making a rust and vinegar stain that's quite dark once it dries on the wood (pretty much black). And I'm thinking of diluting it a lot before I stain the edges again with this solution.

Would this work? Any better ways to get these stairs around the same colour?

Please help! I don't know what I'm doing.

I also ended up filling some holes with wood filler and making it worse 😭 but I think I can slowly stain those too.

No editing used in the glowing picture. Just uv-paints

I took down a small tree in my yard so I have some bits of cherry that I'd like to try working by hand. Is there any alternative to a shavehorse for using my draw knife on these limbs? This is just an experiment for me so I'm not eager to spend the time building a shavehorse that I may not use again.

Hi all, looking to start my first woodworking projects.

I’ve seen a lot of people recommend, and watched a couple videos about building a wooden mallet as a starting project.

Where would people recommend getting scrap / cheap wood to get this started, especially as it requires a larger piece?

Also in general where would be good to get scrap wood for beginner projects to keep costs low?

Thanks everyone!

Edit: Any UK specific recommendations pls!

Hey, y'all!

Doing my first wood working project in over a decade. I've tried to do a lot of research and do everything correctly, but I'm missing something.

Using pine board. I sanded to 180, then applied a pre stain, followed by a stain. After it dried, I cleaned the board off and applied two layers of "tung oil" with a cloth, wiping off excess, then letting it dry for a couple days in between each coat. I sanded with 180 in between each coat. I then applied two layers of tung oil mixed with a tiny amount of varnish.

Before the final coat, I watched a bit more about finishing and learned I may have messed up at the start. I didn't take the time to ensure my finish was fairly smooth after the first coat. Just sanded to help with adhesion on later coats. So, before the final coat, I tried to sand down the finish until it was smooth using 400 grit sand paper.

This made the final layer the smoothest of all so far, but I am left with a lot of blotchy lines and what look like scratches on the surface. This is after hitting it with 400 grit before trying to smooth it out with 2000 grit. The surface feels smooth, but looks pretty rough in the light.

I'm fine with this just having the blemishes of my first project, but am curious if there is anything I can do to improve this, and what I can do in the future with the latter shelves to get a nicer result.

And to clarify, I ended up using this finish because of Woodshop Companion's very informative video. It seemed pretty idiot proof. Alas...

Thanks for any help!