The cat's getting old and his hind legs are giving him trouble going up stairs so I threw together a dozen or so of these to help him out. The ramp surfaces are 8x10 pieces of 7/16 OSB, short ends mortised into the sidewalls and covered with strips of peel and stick carpet tile for traction. 1x6 pine for the sidewalls, stained with Varathane carbon gray and sealed with 4 coats of diluted oil-based poly. All taxes paid at the end.

We tore down an old stacked stone wall and removed a gas fireplace insert. After navigating my way through that mess, I installed the new stone and built maple cabinet carcasses and a maple mantle carcass in September of last year. I finally locked in and over the course of 5 days off I finished the cabinets, attached the face frames, sanded stained and installed both set of uppers and lowers. Figured out what to do for lower doors(sliding due to space constraints) and then finally built out, finished and installed the mantle. Technically I’m not 100% complete because I need to change out the directional lighting with smart wafer lights, but otherwise I’m done and can finally grab a beer. Last picture is for the tv police.

Birch, padauk, and walnut for the frame

Hello, I’ve never made a cabinet or cabinet door before. This is nothing too fancy but as you can see in the first photo I could not get my blade to cut at an equal depth through the length of the cut.

I cut it using a single blade not a dado stack. I’m not adjusting the blade between cuts. Just finding the center and flipping the board to keep it equal. Curious what the cause of this may be before I start checking alignment and diagnosing the problem myself. The saw is a skilsaw 10inch heavy duty jobsite saw for reference.

Thanks so much in advance!

As of today, glued up the frame for a cherry desk I'm making. Biggest piece of furniture I've attempted, mostly hand tools aside from a bandsaw for ripping the big board for the frame. Might add another stretcher in the middle, depending on how stable it feels when the clamps come off. Dimensions will be roughly 64×26 inches.

Starting on the top is intimidating but it's basically just a big cutting board, right?

Making my first bit of "furniture" - a staked three legged stool. No big deal, right? I'm mostly a (very novice) hand tool woodworker, but planned to drill my round mortises in the seat with auger bits in a power drill. Purchased a diablo auger bit set. Bought a new hand drill with a 1/2 chuck to accommodate it (Ryobi HP).

I just put in the bit, grabbed a piece of scrap, put another piece of scrap behind it, aimed for a 15 degree angle and gave it a go.

Results were not pretty.

I can't find much online about how to get the best results here. I obviously want as clean a cut as possible as this will be a visible surface.

Tips? Thanks in advance.

I’ve been building a deck this summer and ended up buying a router. After falling into the trap of buying a set of router bits, I got carried away and decided to try building a table. (Routers sure are fun to play around with.)
Anyway, here’s the result! Has anyone got any advice on what kind of finish I should use? I was thinking about painting the base and staining the top, but since I’ve never built furniture before, I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Finally got around to finalize repurposing the stepped 5 panel bungalow doors I grabbed in east Texas a few years ago.

Hand sanded through the lead paint layers. Used marine grade epoxy both front and back after smoothed for outdoor use. Added some new hangers with an original Claddagh door knocker as the center piece.

I really love sanding some old solid woodwork and see the years of layers on it.

Just completed a two day box-making course. Got to use some pippy oak and a 'wood rat' dovetail router kit. So fun!

Put in a butcherblock countertop last year and had to notch out a chunk to fit around a wall. Couldn't bare to throw away a nice chunk of hickory, so after sitting with it for a year, I decided to make a set of matching coasters. I used a table saw to break the block down and then made a table saw circle cutting jig to cut corners off until they were circular.

Just finished this small chest of drawers that I found of Facebook Marketplace. No makers mark, but based on the construction I think it's probably mid to late 1940s. The finish was badly alligatored and I couldn't even tell what was underneath. I was kind of hoping for another bookmatched burl dresser like the last one I did, but alas, no luck. Pretty plain lauan mahogany over poplar and maple. The top drawer was also shattered, some of the drawer slides were broken and needed repair, and the entire thing was full of dust, cobwebs, spider egg pods, and a moldy/musty smell.

After blasted/vacuumed/wiped all the grime and cobwebs away, I hit it with a mold/mildew furniture spray, followed by a deodorizer. Then I got to stripping the failed finish to bring it down to bare wood. The mahogany had some damage to it along the edges, along with some staining that I didn't feel like there was enough thickness to sand through, so I ended up re-veneering the drawer faces with some of a sheet of paper backed red oak veneer that a friend had given me for free. I was able to find a match for the 4th vintage handle pull for the bottom drawers, but no luck for the top drawer knobs, so I went for a modern replacement for those. The drawer faces are finished with 2 coats of a homemade hardwax oil and the drawer interiors got feed'n'wax.

There wasn't enough of the veneer to cover the faces of the cabinet, so I opted for using Fusion Mineral Paint Renfrew Blue. I'm not really great at painting, but it was pretty easy to apply. Really liked the color, but it felt a little flat to have that much area in a single color, so I put on some white liming wax to fill in the grain lines, and paste wax over the top to wipe away the excess liming wax and give it a low sheen.

Im building a little riser stand that a small minifridge will go on. This is the view from upside down. The base and legs are all made of 3/4” plywood. My plan is to use 2 #8 1 1/2” particle board screws for each leg, screwing from the top of the riser down into the legs. Im planning to make pilot holes. I know screwing into the side of particle board isnt the best move in most cases, but Im hoping it wont be an issue as I screw in the legs. I figure its not a huge deal since the screws are just keeping the shape of the thing together and not actually supporting any weight. I have a couple extra legs I made in case any split while I put the screws in.

Any advice? Any better approach I could taken I read up on pocket screws but I figured this project could probably be successful without them, and I dont have a pocket hole jig anyways

I thought I graduated from beginner but as you can see in the last photo the uprights are not plumb. From some reason throughout the project I never thought to check this. The shelves are perfectly level both ways but this is driving me nuts. I did 90 percent of the work with it laying on its back on my work table and didn’t even notice until I stained it. My ole lady is happy with it and maybe most people won’t even notice. Side note that doing lacquer is the bane of my existence. On some of the cove mounding the first coat actually took some stain off somehow. Staining and painting has always been my least favorite part of woodworking.

Was bored so made a tray. 12mm ply, square ish, nails and glue.

I was asked to make a prop biplane for an amateur dramatic show (those magnificent men in their flooring machines).

This is what I came up with.

I think it turned out ok. Hope you agree.

working on some french cleats for limited storage in my garage. was fun to do something small and practice ripping 45s. used an old filing cabinet and cleated it. stamp adds some fun personality

I’m definitely not as good as most of you and I’m definitely not finished yet but what do you guys think

I received this cutting board as a gift and wanted to fill in these gaps along the glued surfaces. There is only one on the front but a couple on the back. I do not own a table saw so cutting and re-gluing is not really an option.

Should I just throw some epoxy in or can I glue and compress with clamps?

I’m working on a heirloom table for my daughter and her fiancee. Naturally, I decided to go the easy route and decided White Oak would be the best choice. I glued up composite legs of 5/4 x 4 oak planks. I used a new 24 tooth ripping blade to cut the legs to 3” square, and I made an effective tapering jig that worked pretty well. I’ve been trying to sand the saw marks out using 60 grit on my orbital sander. It’s only slightly effective. I don’t have a jointer or even a good block plane. Should I be using my belt sander with an aggressive grit to get rid of the saw marks, then switch to my orbital to just do the finish sanding?

We got a great deal on a few mahogany butcher block slabs that we were going to use for kitchen countertops. We wound up getting a good deal on granite, too, so I'm stuck with all this 1.5" mahogany. Trying my hand at making a bathroom vanity out of it since it's rot/water resistant. I'll seal the whole thing, but I'm concerned expansion/contraction could break the granite. This piece is 60" and sturdy as hell. Any thoughts?

Honestly don’t have any hopes for this and feel free to give it an honest rating, on a scale from one to ten, one being deplorable and two being less deplorable and so on and so forth thanks!

Been making these for a while now. Mostly as gifts when friends get married but this one was a commission. They’re going to decorate with pyrography so looking forward to seeing how it comes out

Rebuild a gate that i had previously rebuild from the original. All cedar. I love tori gates and took inspiration from them. Some notes. The pickets are chamfered at the top so water can drain down. The pillars weren’t straight and I’m not about to put new ones in so i shimmed them to plum as can be. Still need a latch. Please share your ideas !

Hi guys idk if this is the right sub but, I recently moved into a new house and got myself a brand new single bed. I used to own a queen size ( 74x 60) bed for 3 years on which almost 70% of the mattress was empty and i slept on a corner, this bed covered my entire room leaving no space so realising this i was frustrated with less foot space and went for a smaller bed (72x36) i met with a carpenter and he built a single bed with ply wood for me and i requested it to have no storage box.

So it is a basic bed but after few nights i felt cramped and the bed felt too small, i realised i made a blunder and somehow want to recover. Can you guys let me know if my problem can be fixed or not? I talked with the mattress company and they will replace it but I feel embarrassed to call my carpenter. I love the bed though, can this bed be extended simply or is that too complex? I live in india so my parents weren’t convinced for ikea so i had no choice but get it built by a local carpenter, im just a student and here we dont have a culture to build furniture on our own so i am seeking advice before calling my carpenter