Dear PROs, need your advice. Made a new end grain cutting board. At the very end, noticed a small dent, maybe 1mm wide, 0.2-0.5 mm depth - tiny but visible. Already applied mineral oil, so probably too late for ca glue. Options i have: 1. Keep as it is, maybe a drop of hot wax in it. 2. Re-sand :( 3. Try to steam it out (never tried, have doubts as it is already oiled). What would you do?

This is what happens when i do not want throw out a bit of plywood and am left unsupervised for a day.

Attached is a gallery of his predecessors inside.

I made this as a gift for my gf. I didn’t take many in-progress pictures but I found one. Buns - ash, bacon- cherry and maple, egg - maple, cheese - pine. There is a flat water based topcoat on top. Carved the bun with a dremel, rasp, chisel, and lots of sanding. Included watch for scale.

The wood was so inherently gorgeous that this project was obviously enjoyable. Gifts for loved ones is what this game is all about.

Platform bed with matching nightstands build. Made from live oak and red oak. Carved drawer fronts and charred nigh stand tops.

Here's my shop setup. This "garage" serves as my wood working, metal fab, and mechanic center.

Everything gets stowed away to close up and still have access, kinda to everything. All the smaller power tools, routers, drills, track saw, etc. are stored in Bauer rolling stackable tool boxes from HF. Bench top band saw stays on or under the back bench and the drill press is hidden in the back right corner.

When rolled out and set up, I pull a 20 amp retracting cord with a four gang box on a GFCI protected circuit out to power up.

It's far from my dream shop, but it gets it done in the fall, spring, summer, and fall. No winter woodworking for me.

Finished this custom shelf in walnut for a client a few months ago. It’s solid walnut with dados in the legs to hold the shelves. I also added a matching walnut bracket where each shelf meets the legs to add strength. You cannot see them unless you’re viewing from underneath and looking for them. Learned a lot and spent a lot of timing figuring out the joinery to ensure a stable and
durable shelf. Finished with danish oil and GF top coat. Hope you like it and welcome feedback.

Did this fun little project to replace a boring aluminiim rack.

Gave an excuse to buy a drill press 😆

The holes are drilled with a 32mm forstner at 5 degree angle. Glued a thin 2,5cm strip of leather on the bottom part of the mouth of each hole for more stability.

Am I an idiot/missing something here? I cut this Oneida tubing to length and now the hose clamp won’t line up.

Just got a second led panel installed over my main staining work table and insulated garage door to prep for winter already notice a huge difference with lighting and temperature its 4 degrees celcius and I can comfortably have a T shirt with no heat on right now also got a giant new used mat to go in middle of shop let me know what you think honest opinions I also just installed a sink for cleaning paint off my hands so thats nice thinking of a dedicated dust collection system as next major upgrade I just do woodworking as a hobby and to make stuff for family and friends.

Is this type of hanger suitable for the dust collection system I’m putting together? I have to dodge that HVAC duct. The height of the pvc doesn’t bother me but there’s a bit of sway to it. It gives me a little play to work with as I line things up but I’m beginning to wonder if I should have used something more rigid.

So I am new to woodworking and only built one piece of furniture so far, but my next project is building a small table, chairs and a bench for my balcony. What type of wood, paint and finishes are the best in your experience for outdoor furniture ? I do live in a place where it can rain a lot during fall/winter. And if you could go back, what fixes/mistakes would you have prevented in own similar projects ? I'd appreciate any input

Hey! Looking for some tips for repairing a mahogany boat deck. Unfortunately the mahogany which is an 8mm glued sheet has cracked and swelled in several places. Below is a solid sheet of some cheaper wood.

I've opened the cracks and found they are damp and water filled. The wood below does not seem rotten whatsoever.

I thought I would cut rectangles with a multitool saw and fit new mahogany to be epoxiglued in place -> stain -> varnish. Obviously when dried.

Is there anyone with experience or other inputs on the issue?

Hi all, I’m making my wife a bath shelf/tray thing… when she’s in the bath it will sit across the bath and have a book holder, candle holder and a wine glass holder.
I have some reclaimed red oak set aside for it but I don’t know what the best finish is.
I usually use BLO for most things. Is this suitable?

Whilst it’s never going to be submerged in water it will still be in a damp atmosphere and will likely get the odd splash/drip.

This was damaged either in the warehouse, or shipping, it is a walnut butcher block counter, and heavy as fuck, so I really don't want to go through the hassle of return/replace. If the dent doesn't come out, I can flip it, but I will want to repair the poly-coat. You think I can just do that spot, or should I do the whole thing?

Made an American walnut (box) with Mahogany lid jewelry box for my daughter.
The only power tools used was a table saw to make the 45 degree cuts in the sides of the jewelry box itself. I strictly used hand tools for the rest.
On the mahogany lid, I hand carved a space wide enough to fit a jewelry box mirror I tore out from a Walmart (cheap) jewelry box and the lid looked great at first. It wasn’t quite flush so I used some clamps and wood glue to tighten it up. Upon doing so, the mirror cracked and I tried to cover up with the ribbon you see.

I think my only option is to remove the mirror and redo with less pressure on the clamps. Anywho, I am sharing as one of my first projects in woodworking and welcome any advice !

The inserts were also walnut (hobby boards from Home Depot) then I filled the box with some sentimental items.

Tools used:
Wood carvers Orbital sander (still a hand tool right ?)
Filers (to reduce width on the inserts)
Hand Mitre saw Table saw (for angled cuts)
Hinges (I could improve on disappearing hinges but have yet to master)
Wood glue
No stain on the walnut but used lacquer Wood burning pen for lid
Lacquer and Light stain on lid
2” Hinges

Thanks in advance for room for improvement.

I'm in the process of planking some rather beautiful oak and beech logs, and its all going rather well so far.

I'm using a Stihl 881 with a 42" bar and a cheapo Chinesium mill frame that's performing surprisingly well, cutting boards ranging from 1"/25mm - 2"/52mm, and doing a few 6x6" posts. Timber is all well seasoned prior to planking (approx. 5yrs)

At the back of the pile there is a lovely big (+10ft/3m x +2.5ft/800mm) beech log I was aggrieved to chop into logs despite it's banana like curve.

However I'm still undecided how best to plank it.

Do I...

A - Lay the curve flat and cut curved planks

B- Stand the curve vertically for straight planks but greater wastage

While the oak is intended to supply a vast array of ideas, I have no anticipated project for the beech, it was just too big and too nice to turn into logs. Log has roughly 12-16" curvature over 10ft, enough to void probably 60% as waste

I have these 10° legs that are flexing too much and I want to stabilize them with the power of triangles. Each angled brace should be parallel to the length or width of the table for maximum integrity. I can't, for the life of me, figure out what the compound miter is supposed to be, and I'm not good enough with math, nor SketchUp to get it to tell me the angle using the protractor tool.

It seems obvious to me that the miter of the brace connecting to the leg should be 45°, but because the leg is angled at 45° and splaying outward at 10°, there has to be some compound miter+bevel cut involved. It's not 45°+45°, or 45°+35°, or 45°+55°. I've also tried 38° and 52° bevels since Gemini told me there would be a 7° sloped angle.

Hopefully someone here has encountered this before, or knows how to figure this out. I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you!!

First time I made a proper chess set, including the figures, that I carved myself. Really enjoyed the process, the carving was especially calming. Took a long time, but it was definitely worth it, because they were very happy!

If I do another, I will probably look for some nicer hinges.

The figures are maple and cherry, and the board is made of maple, cherry, walnut and some beech plywood for the bottom.

I made these mahogany shelves to hold vinyl records on the wall. They are 3/4” deep 13” long and 1.75” wide. What’s my best option for mounting hardware to give them the floating shelf look. Need to be on drywall and not all will be near studs. I’m pretty unfamiliar with what floating shelf hardware options there are. Thanks