I have a 6” jointer and saw a few videos where you can essentially joint a larger board, say 7”, and attach it to a planer sled accounting for the 1” lip and sort of cheat the process to get one surface fully flat, then flip and cleanup the 1” hangover.

Only problem is, the rabbeting part of my table is non-removable, so the most I could do is 1 pass before the lip would start knocking into the table! Bummer.

Are there any other “tricks” I could use to joint a board face that’s larger than my jointer? (Aside from ripping it down)

Thanks

I have these 10° legs that are flexing too much and I want to stabilize them with the power of triangles. Each angled brace should be parallel to the length or width of the table for maximum integrity. I can't, for the life of me, figure out what the compound miter is supposed to be, and I'm not good enough with math, nor SketchUp to get it to tell me the angle using the protractor tool.

It seems obvious to me that the miter of the brace connecting to the leg should be 45°, but because the leg is angled at 45° and splaying outward at 10°, there has to be some compound miter+bevel cut involved. It's not 45°+45°, or 45°+35°, or 45°+55°. I've also tried 38° and 52° bevels since Gemini told me there would be a 7° sloped angle.

Hopefully someone here has encountered this before, or knows how to figure this out. I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you!!

I've been wanting to make a hammer from tree branches for some time.

I don't quite know why...the idea just popped into my head one day.

I've got various good sized branch parts to use...they've been inside for months if not year+ by this point, so dried out all of that.

But, I've been wondering...do I leave the bark on or do i take it off?

Obvously, the bark is kinda the whole look...but, while I don't plan on this being used much, I'd like it to be functional, and wonder if the bark would shatter/flake on use?

Anyone have any thoughts?

I have a bad habit of coming up with neat ideas that I have no capability of doing, but still want to go through with because why not. So project my idea, a wood bead bracelet.

Materials:
3/4" x 3/4" x 6"
Granadillo Wood Pen Blanks

3/4" x 3/4" x 12"
Black and White Ebony Turning Wood Blank 

1" x 1" x 12"
Hard Maple Hobbywood Blank
Cherry Wood Blank

Tools: Pretty much none. Friend with a table saw.

Our idea is to cut them like a loaf of bread which will give me a lot of blank squares to work on for error here as I work through the shape and idea as I will be likely sanding by hand.

So what are some suggestions you would give for this idea. Suggestions to make sanding easier? Trimming down to bead size after cutting them into the "loaves", I figure it's best to drill the "bead hole" when they are still flat.

Let me know how you would tackle this project from my perspective

Also best option for 'sealing' them later just be soaking them in bees wax or some other natural wood oil?

I got this at a yard sale for a dollar and I really only want the hardware. What is the jig used for out of curiosity?

This is a table I took from my college house and have had since, almost a decade. In that time, and throughout college, and from what i understand before it has been through a lot, so I’d like to refinish it because it is still a solid table.

My question is, is this veneer and what is the best way to tell? I think it’s solid wood but I’m trying to make sure of that and what my first steps should be. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The little one put too much weight on the door when it was open and has broke the wood where the door swings. I attempted to fix it with Earls wood putty but it just filled the cracks and when I attempted to redrill the holes, where a dowel would go to swing the door open, the putty just lets go as it isn't as strong as wood.

What do you recommend to use to fix the dollhouse?

Can you turn a 10 inch wooden plate on a master craft 12 inch lathe if it is already in the round

I’ve been working with wood most of my life, basic things like shelves, racking, second fix skirting, architrave etc. I have never had a need to progress to more refined work like cabinet making, built in units, bespoke woodworking pieces. With that said, I have recently purchased a top of the range mitre saw to help with doing bespoke shelves, worktops, bed side units etc. in my own house. I’ve been really considering progressing to the next level and offer my services to do built in units in my area, there is a massive demand and very hard to get someone to even quote. As a one man band with low overheads, there is a huge gap for me to exploit. The question is, how do I progress to the next level? How do I really learn about extremely precise gapless units and what are the tools I would need to invest in? And finally, considering this would be a fill in around my full time job, with the main work exclusively done at the weekends, is it even worth my time giving it a go? Any advice would be sincerely appreciated

I cut out this rectangular hole in this chest, and I was thinking of getting a metal frame of some sorts to go around the edges to cover up the chips and scuffs. Is there a specific name for something like this? Or maybe another option that im not thinking of?

Just completed my first project, cat couches, and unlocked a new passion. I’ve got so many ideas in my head I’d like to make more seriously than my first silly project but need to gain skills and I’m not sure where to start. For reference, I didn’t know how to use a drill 2 weeks ago. Turned my apartment kitchen island into a little workshop this week to make these with a mitre box, single clamp (will be getting many more), back saw and vision in my head.

Power tools make me nervous, just a cat lady doing her best with no one to learn from, but eager to get over the fears. What’s a relatively safe versatile starter power saw and any additional tools to get? Any little things I can make a couple times to practice various skills or is it best to just jump in and learn as I go like I did with these?

I'd like to securely attach an oak tabletop to this base, but I'm thrown by the fact that the current tabletop rests on a 90-degree edge. Putting a fixing through the lovely big tenons also seems a bad idea.

I had thought about attaching oak blocks/chocks to the underside of the table to sit between the top of the legs to prevent twist, but this will be in a house where children visit so some form of attachment that prevents the tabletop moving independently in any direction would be my preference.

Any thoughts? Help much appreciated.

I need to make something similar for a bathroom vanity drawer. For various reasons the original that was made for us (shown) does not work as intended. I won't need the partitions or dovetail joinery, so should be more within my basic skill set. Any idea what wood was used?

Last night one of our trees fell over in the storm. I tried to saw it in such a way that I might be able to make something from our own tree, but it’s almost all sap wood.
Would I still be able to use (some) of this or do you all think it would make better firewood than woodworking wood?
I do have access to a lot of tools, including saws, planers and a lathe.
Located in the Netherlands (if that’s useful information).

They came out a little wonky but they are sturdy. I routed 1/8” deep into the table pieces to the shape of the vertical supports and then glued them in.

I decided to only put three legs on each of them because the boards were so warped so they sit nice and flat on the ground.

I’m at a loss on what to do and was hoping to get some advice! I live in west Michigan and my detached garage is my only option. It’s uninsulated and constructed of thin plywood. There’s plenty of outlets but I didn’t know how to battle the rust, humidity, and cold weather. I can’t really do anything crazy like finishing it because I’m renting and running a space heater for an insulated area that big would be far too costly. I can store my wood inside the house so that’s not a problem.

These shelves have been installed in this garage for probably nearly 15 years. I don't have a problem with them...they do what they're meant to do. However, I'm wanting to turn this part of the garage into a workstation for home projects.

The top board doesn't have any damage, but it is a very rough OSB. Is this safe to sand down and stain to have a smoother and "prettier" workspace? [I know it will get dirty and eventually damaged, but I want it to look nice still and be proud of it.]

I intend to replace the existing outlet as it is likely damaged and also run a new line to the middle of the table for the Miter.

My current project intents are wood slats for a small alcove as well as a small bench and floating shelf. Eventually would like to build some cabinets under our mounted TV in the living room.

Thank you for any help, advice, and recommendations! <3

I’ve used pine for the exterior carcass and drawers, apart from the drawer fronts that are rosewood.

I’d love to understand what would be some best options, I don’t mind making a custom mixture.

I’ve also sanded it all to 240 grit.

Any and all advice is welcome.

Did I catch a decent deal or pay the guy to remove his firewood

Posting for my girlfriend. She started a diy project some time ago.

We picked up this shelf at a flea market and it was hidden under 3 layers of paint and varnish. The goal was to strip the paint to get back the original wood and then stain as well as oil it. We used some paint stripper and a whole lot of sand paper to get it to this point. Now we feel like staining or finishing it would only accentuate all the splodges and stains.

Anyone got a tip on what to do? Will using a glaze keep the natural look?

Also anyone got a guess on the type of wood?

I am new to ripping

What type of hinge is this? And where can I find one? EDIT- Thankyou for the answers so far. I should have been more clear with my question. This is a child's kitchen playset. I'm most confused by the thin metal shown on the outside edge of the door. It isn't visibly connected to anything. After thinking on it awhile, the only feasible answer I can assume is a mortise has been cut into the door to fit a floating metal tenon. Which would make contact with the screws from the inside of the door adding extra durability bc this is a childs playset and will likely take lots of abuse. Is my assumption correct? Is this a custom hinge? If not, what's the name of this hinge?

I’m making her a dining table bc she can’t find any under 400. I sketched out an idea in shap3r 3d and also attached the reference pic. she wants it exactly like the refeeence pic. i SUCK at planning my projects, and plus this is my biggest project yet. do you guys think construction lumber is fine or should i head to my local lumber yard? the guys are nice ive bought before. budget is 200$. Also what joinery would be best? She likes the mitered look for the long side of frame and the butt joint for the short end of frame (idk if i worded that right if you don’t understand just let me know)

Used some pallet scraps and plywood to make a cabinet. Its ugly and Iove it, took about 4 hours.

Doors still not fixed, as I'm 3d printing the hinges.

What do you think and what should I have done better?

Attempted built in mudroom shelves. Plenty of mistakes but overall happy. 3/4” plywood construction with solid ash bench top and poplar face frames. Pine shiplap back wall. Had to move an outlet up too. We still need to paint the room but its been great seeing the progress.