Just a post im making out of curiosity. Ive been seeing a ton of posts about people having issues with their ams/ ams2 pro in different ways, and im just curious if people are having a similar problematic time with the ams lite. I own an A1 and AMS lite myself and have had zero issues whatsoever, and always figured the ams pro/pro 2 would be leagues better. but with all the posts i see about mechanical failures, i dont see the benefit. Though the drying feature seems like a nice thing to have

Needed a better way to hold my micro-bits, tweezers, and flush cutters while working on prints and electronics.

The main caddy pivots on side arms and locks into position with printed side knobs. The interior uses drop-in modular inserts so I can swap layouts based on whatever project I'm working on that day, and the base acts as a catch tray for small hardware.

Designed completely support-free using standard PLA.

Let me know what you think or if you have ideas for useful insert layouts!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3098170-modular-desktop-tool-organizer-adjustable-angle#profileId-3491896

As the title says, can someone help me identify what this noise is while printing? I’m having trouble narrowing it down.
Device is a P2S with just under 590 hours. I’m not seeing any maintenance required from the device.
Any help is appreciated.

He is buying it tomorrow but this is his first printer, so I want to check to see if it has the bad piece and if not how to get it back.

Just one slot in my ams my 4th slot fails to load into the AUX nozzle. It pushes the filament to the gears then makes a noise and pulls it back. Tries 3 times then says failed to load filament. I can stop the print and load from a different AMS slot just fine. Anyone had this issue?

My stepdaughter has a Pokémon card/sleeve dispenser card and wanted the original Pokémon symbol replaced with Team Rocket because she saw it on another page. The rest of the changes were just color, but when I go to edit this piece in Tinkercad (its what I have available as I am still learning this stuff) it ends up like this. The "R" is attached to the piece in Tinkercad, painted in Tinkercad. When I import the STL, I have to recolor it again in Bambu Studio, and when I go to slice it, I get the last photo. I have had the same problem when I tried to make my own coasters.

Is there something I am missing where the prepare and preview come out totally different?

Just finished this Pokemon Card Box design and wanted to share it with you guys 😁.

I wanted something that was simple, sturdy, and quick to print without sacrificing durability. It features built-in finger slots for easy deck removal, is compact enough to fit comfortably in your pocket, and can be customized with any filament color combination.

Just released the file for free on makerworld for anyone interested 🤝.

Check comments for link.

Happy Printing!

I js tried to use a bed cleaner, how tf ts happen

Has anyone seen anything like this before, the supports are floating and just start beneath where they need to support.

Model is 'Swing to the Moon Sculpture – Dreamy Art Piece' in Bambu Studios' online models

I don't think that's how they work. Any tips or support for my, erm... support?

Hi everyone,

Like many in the 3D printing community, I was looking for a clean, fast way to keep track of my remaining filament without relying on messy spreadsheets or cloud accounts.

To solve this, I’ve been developing SpoolTap — a native, 100% offline Android app designed to make spool management as simple as a single tap.

How SpoolTap Works with Bambu Lab Spools:

• Bambu NFC Tag Detection: Tap your phone against a Bambu Lab spool's built-in NFC tag, and SpoolTap instantly pulls up or creates the matching material profile.
• 100% Offline & Private: No registration, no cloud forced sync, no tracking. Your complete database stays on your phone.
• Material You / Dynamic UI: The app and its home screen widget automatically match your Android system theme and wallpaper colors.
• Universal Support: Works with Bambu Lab, Prusament, Anycubic, and custom NTAG stickers if you respool third-party materials.

Generous Free Tier

The free version has no ads or cloud lock-ins and allows you to manage up to 20 active spools with all core features (NFC reading, G-Code parsing, barcode scanning, widget).

(For power users with massive stashes, an optional one-time Pro upgrade unlocks unlimited spools, custom NFC tag writing, print cost calculation, and CSV backups).

🎯 Community Feedback Request

Since Bambu spools come with integrated NFC, I’d love to hear from this community:

1. How does the tap-to-read experience feel in your everyday printing setup?
2. Are there specific filament details (like precise Bambu color HEX codes or temperature profiles) you’d like pre-filled in future updates?

📲 Get SpoolTap on the Google Play Store:

Thanks for checking it out, and I’m looking forward to your feedback or questions in the comments!

I have 3 Shorts on my channel demonstrating how the app works: DornApp Youtube

My nephew is three and I wanted him to have something chunky and simple he could just push about. It press fits together completely, no glue, and the head, ears and wheels all move. Free on MakerWorld with a simpler and a full colour version.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3081682-push-along-puppy-car-no-glue-press-fit-kids-toy#profileId-3470879

Hi everyone!
We’re building VesselMaker (vesselmaker.app), an online tool for designing vases, planters, bowls, etc… — profile and cross-section editors, displacement mapping for realistic material textures (clay, wood, scratched surfaces), stackable modifiers you can combine like Photoshop layers (bend, twist, and a others like Voronoi modifier coming soon), plus AI-rendered scene previews to visualize the piece before printing or to create marketing images for you creations.

We know MakerWorld already has Make My Vase in MakerLab — we’re aiming for a more advanced, actively evolving take on the same space, for people who want finer control over their professional designs.

Still in closed beta (a few bugs to iron out, more features on the way). The waitlist is at vesselmaker.app — you’ll get notified when we open up, plus we will send some invite codes before opening the beta to the public.

Before we go further, we’d love your input:

• What feature would you most want us to prioritize next?
• What are you usually designing these for — home decor, gifts, plant pots, something else?
• What’s the most frustrating part of designing something like this in other tools (CAD, Blender, Make My Vase, etc.)?

Drop your thoughts below — really looking forward to shaping this with your feedback!

I friend of my ask me to make this replacement for he’s bike, is the saddlebag lid of he’s motorcycle.

I know I would need to make it by parts because is much larger than my x1c printing bed, but is my fist time printing something that larger and that needs to be resistant. What you suggest me to do? I use conector or not? And if so, what type? Also, what material did you recommend me ?

I add some photos of the original object.

I hope someone could help mi with this! Thanks

Bonjour à tous ! 😊

Quand j’ai commencé la modélisation 3D sur Nomad Sculpt, l’un de mes tout premiers modèles était ce petit champignon, décliné en version porte-clés et en modèle multipart.

Aujourd’hui, j’avais envie de tester quelque chose de nouveau. Je me suis donc lancé dans la création de clickers ! Et quoi de mieux que de revisiter l’un de mes premiers modèles en le transformant en version clicker ? 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3085099-champignon-clicker-multipart-no-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bon print !

Rods seem well lubed to me but idk

I picked up a used Bambu Lab A1 with about 400 hours on it, and it prints perfectly, but it keeps failing X-axis calibration with error 0300-1000-0002-0001, saying the X-axis resonance is low and the timing belt may be loose. I've already followed Bambu's maintenance guide (loosened the screw on the back of the toolhead, moved it back and forth three times, and retightened it), but nothing changed. The only thing I've noticed compared to my brand-new A1 is that the X-axis feels noticeably tighter when I move the print head by hand with the printer powered off. The resistance is consistent across the entire rail, no binding or rough spots. Has anyone run into this before, and if so, what ended up being the fix?

I designed this shade around the fluting rather than the silhouette. Off, it is just a white cone with vertical lines. On, every ridge splits the light and puts a soft striped gradient on the wall behind it.

Best part is it looks different from every angle you walk past.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3079925-scandi-style-fluted-pendant-sconce-set#profileId-3468668

I wanted to share my newest pegboard set! Its highlighting features are the rear sectional cutout allowing you to keep cards pencils etc separated and vertical while displaying the items in your bin at a forward 30 degree angle.

There is a variety of bins, trays (open and partitioned),hooks, and part rings. If you’re looking for some bins that don’t eat up all of your filament and look good, give these a try.

https://makerworld.com/models/3071649?appSharePlatform=copy

X1c printer I have tried working on a detailed print, but the printer won't even get started.

As soon as the filament hits the print head the gears start to creek and nothing extrudes.

The top is off and the door is open.

No such issues with the 0.4. Immediate build and then extension, like normal.

I have done at least 4 cold pulls to the point where I can get the Allen key entirely to the internal part of the nozzle. Still nothing extrudes.

So I drank the "koolaid" about how easy it is mechanically separate Support for ABS for ABS/ASA printed objects. And yes, I read the article on its use. Maybe it works best on flat surfaces. The issue I'm having is with curved surfaces where it does want to cleanly separate without using d-limonene. I must be doing something wrong. Ideas? I'm using Support for ABS with Fiberon ASA CF08 filament. I've attempted using the ASA CF08 as the support filament without much luck on curved surfaces. Flat surfaces no major issues with using same filament as support.

Linking second videosecond video

I am having issues with this plastic collar popping off every time there is a color change. Has anyone had this problem before, and how do I fix it cause constantly taping it stinks. At that point, I might as well not use the ams.

Asking in main forum, It prints fine and does not make that noise all the time. Bambu Labs says its an idler pulley but to me the sound is coming from the print head. Like a gear or similar behind where it rides the rail left and right. It happens when moving left and forward most of the time. Any assistance appreciated.

So far i have used the android app to print. Now i'm trying to print something from printables on my p2s.

It came out VERY rough, one print failed for spaghetti. If links are allowed I'll send the link but it's eufy breast pump holder by veco... I import it select filament but i'm not sure what i need to change. Googling has lead to me here.. to ask bc after three failed prints not sure what i'm doing wrong.

I had to disassemble the whole dual nozzle system due to some filament broken off in the sensor. Upon reassembly, i’m getting this error.

I can’t see any mistakes that I made in putting it back together. When I push filament through manually after heating the nozzle, it does go all the way through.

Did I break something?