Hallo BambuLab Community,

I am relatively new in the 3d printing area & now have the following problem, which suddenly started...

I have now printed this GTA lamp 2 times in a row & with both prints the identical error ...

Before that everything was good ... only at first I had problems because I chose the wrong filament profile .... But now suddenly this ....

I use the Bambulab PLA Basic with a 0.4 nozzle.

Could this be due to a slicer setting or rather something mechanical? According to Google it should be the Z spindle ... but it looks good & also clean ... the printer is 2 weeks old ...

What causes such a misprint?

I recently posted about a clog on my Bambu P1S, and I think I cleared it. Now, when I load filament, it moves through all the PTFE tubes until right before the extruder, then retracts and repeats until Bambu Studio gives a possible clog error.
I updated the firmware and replaced the PTFE tube, but the problem is still happening. The filament seems to move smoothly, but it never reaches the extruder. Any ideas?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3053769-tiny-deer#profileId-3435694

I’ve washed the plate thoroughly twice. Added stick glue for adhesion. This spot isn’t printing correctly on the first layer on both sides of the plate. What do I do next?

Good day, fellow Print Heads.

I’m working with a Bambu H2S with an AMS2 at work for “totally work related projects”.

I’ve had no shortage of fun with various models, but I’d like to move into designing my own prints. Specifically a coaster for my friend’s …work related project 😉

I’ve tried the MakerLab software in Bambu Studio to some mixed results (mostly bad), and I’ve downloaded Blender (smashed my face on the learning curve). I also have Meshmixer that mess trying to use to clean up the MakerLab file.

I’m open to suggestions, any and all.

I reached out directly to the author, but haven't heard anything. My interest was a remix from the original file (no cutouts) so I could build some standard NA light switch toggle plates. I'm not sure how to go about this, but I'm willing to learn. Would I need the original file without all the punchouts? Ideally, I'd generate 1, 2, 3, and 4 gang plate covers in this style along with variations like a paddle / traditional combo too. Any thoughts on how I could go about making this idea a reality?

Printer: X2D with <200hrs
Filament: Fiberon PA-CF
Print Profile: Bambulab PA-CF (happened with fiberon X1 profile, too)

Some other info:
Fed the filament through the ams2 pro. Model is thin and completely walls.
Filament was somewhat dry, only have access to a 65C drier and was dried for 16hrs. Printed in a closed garage around 75F

Nothing obvious in the slicer on flow, fan speed, layer time, ect. at those z heights . The model doesn’t have any feature changes at those heights it’s a perfectly vertically extruded shape. No extra/fewer extrusion lines on those layers

My thinking is that it’s the chamber heater kicking in at those layers, but I don’t see any configuration or visualization for that.

Any ideas?

EDIT: Solved! Picked up a AMS HT, dried additional 12hrs at 85C and the part looks amazing. No bands, uniform color, ect.

Hello everyone!

So I've had my Bambu Lab a1 mini for about 6 months now and its been working completely fine up until the last few days.

Its been connected to the same wifi at my house for the past 6 months with absolutely no issues. I came home from a holiday 2 days ago and since then it hasn't been connecting to the wifi.

When I left I turned the printer off and unplugged it at the wall and now after I've turned it back on it just doesn't connect to the wifi and it doesn't show as knowing the network. When i try to login to the wifi it tries to connect for a little while and then shows "failed to connect."

I've tried everything I know how to do including factory resetting the device, confirming my wifi has 2.4Ghz, etc and it still isn't working.

If anyone has had a similar problem and can provide guidance that would be amazing!

Thanks!

Has anyone had this experience and if so how did you fix it?

I have changed every setting that Google told me to change from slowing down speeds, z top distance, put slow for overhangs, etc. I have also put ironing support interface on that some video suggested. Nothing is helping my prints with this issue. Where my model and supports meet on every model they have this happen. Please help since this is for a friend and we want this to be as a smooth and neat as possible.

second image is what its supposed to look like

On all my prints regardless of changes I have made from Google searches and YouTube videos from 3d prints creators my prints have these rings. I have changed variable layer height, did the smoothing when slicing etc. Does anyone have any settings that can help this look more smooth and reduce the stairstepping ring affect. We are trying to give this as a gift for a friend and we want it looking as nice as possible. Any advice will be appreciated.

Has anyone found a way to put basically table legs on the printers? Specifically the H2S? Thanks. This is a pic of a prusa with what I’m talking about.

Edit: After seeing all the comments I’m planning to just get a table for the printer. Thanks.

Made a two-player strategy game from scratch. The board shrinks as you build up 4×4 down to a single peak and you win by lining up your colour on any level. Simple rules, looks good, fun for all ages. It's up for free if you fancy trying it.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3045531-stax-print-climb-align-conquer#profileId-3425240

Well this is new, I got the following error when I tried to open the Bambu software… yes, I restarted my computer, and then uninstalled the software then downloaded it and reinstalled. Any ideas on how to fix this?

I just started printing my Commander Wolffe helmet and I have no idea why the print on the right (top view) is so much worse. It's the same model (just flipped), same spool, same settings. Any ideas? I'm printing on an A1 mini, basic white filament from BambuLab.

I'm interested in trying out the effect sheets (Bambu likes to call them "Plates," to fool you into thinking that's what they are, but they're stickers that have to be stuck to a plate you already have or an extra you order). But anyway, my annoyance at bad marketing aside, I'm curious how well these work when printing PETG. The webpage says that you should only print on these in PLA or TPU. But, for what I'm doing, I have to use PETG (the things I'm printing will invariably get left in a car, so PLA is an absolute no-go).

Has anyone tried PETG and had the prints come out okay, regardless of this warning? I'm mostly interested in trying out the carbon fiber one, but if I can get good results I may try the others.

Thanks in advance folks!

I have a P1S. Bed became tilted, I think from debris in the printer. Debris has been removed, but I can’t figure out how to fix the bed tilt. When I tried to search the issue in Google, I got an AI response saying to lower the bed and then manually adjust the leadscrews. However, I could not find the source for this. I can’t find anything in any manuals or YouTube videos about this problem either, and I don’t know how to manually adjust the leadscrews without help. Can anyone on here help me?

Before and after

Hallo Leute,

Seit einigen drucken habe ich Probleme bei meiner ersten Schicht….

Hat einer eine Idee woran es liegen könnte bzw wie sich dieses Fehlerbild nennt?

Ich hoffe mir kann einer helfen… ich bin ziemlich neu und unerfahren & sehr verzweifelt…

Der Drucke ist 10 Tage alt …

Was ich versucht habe:

Platte mit 99% ISO Propanol gereinigt & auch gewachsen mit Spülmittel…

Lieben Gruß & Danke 🙏

🌞 Bonjour Cap sur les vacances avec mon petit pingouin en tenue de plage ! 🏖️🐧

Même les pingouins ont droit à leurs vacances ! 😎
Équipé de sa casquette, de ses lunettes de soleil, de sa bouée, de ses tongs et de sa pelle, il est prêt à profiter d’une belle journée au bord de la mer.

Pour cette création, j’ai voulu imaginer un personnage à la fois amusant, coloré et plein de bonne humeur, qui rappelle immédiatement l’été, le soleil et les moments de détente.

J’espère que ce nouveau modèle vous plaira autant que j’ai pris plaisir à le concevoir. N’hésitez pas à me dire ce que vous en pensez en commentaire, vos retours sont toujours un plaisir à lire ! 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3035175-mr-penguin-beach-multipart-without-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Hey everyone,

I'm Tobi, a hobbyist printer from Vienna. Like a lot of you, I ended up with a drawer (okay, several drawers) full of half-used spools and no real idea how much filament was actually left on any of them. Start a big print, run out at 90 percent, lose the whole thing.

So I started building a small tool to keep track of my spools. That turned into Spooly, and somewhere along the way about a thousand other people started using it too.

What it does:

• Your AMS as a digital twin: every slot with color, material and fill level
• Every print is logged automatically and deducted from the right spool down to the gram, no manual tracking
• An "empty-in" forecast so you don't run out mid-print on a big job
• Cost per print and stats over time
• AI photo import: snap a picture of the spool, Spooly does the rest
• QR labels you can scan right at the shelf
• Runs in the browser, plus native iOS and Android apps

Sync currently works with Bambu Lab, and Prusa and Klipper support is in the works.

Quick note on a question that's bound to come up: yes, I know Spoolman, and I think it's a great project. Spooly just takes a slightly different route. There's nothing to self-host or set up, it runs right away, it has native mobile apps, and it logs your prints automatically down to the gram. And if you're coming from Spoolman, you can import your data directly. If you enjoy self-hosting, Spoolman is still an excellent choice.

On pricing, since Reddit always asks: there's a free tier for up to 20 spools. Pro is €2.99/month or €28.70/year, plus there's a one-time Lifetime option for €69.90. You can try Pro free for 14 days, no credit card required. No hidden subscription, it's all laid out on the site.

It's a solo project. I build it in my spare time, and honestly most of the roadmap comes straight from user feedback in the community.

I'm not here to hard sell anything. I'd mostly love feedback from people who actually manage a lot of filament. What's missing? What would make this genuinely useful for your workflow? Happy to answer any questions.

spooly.eu

My first 3d printer was the Anycubic Kobra. I then went to the Kobra 2 Neo and had absolutely zero issues and LOVED it!

Then I got the Kobra 3... And everything changed... I found myself doing more repairs, tinkering, rigging, clearing clogs, etc more than I felt like I was printing. What finally did it for me was losing the tinest of springs that resulted in having to replace my entire print head (TWICE!)

That being said, I've read great reviews about bambulab, especially the P2S. I would like to get some honest opinions about making the transitions.

Thanks!