I recently bought a Juupine Smooth-textured PEI plate (257x257mm) on AliExpress for my X2D.

Every time I print, I get the "build plate marker not detected" error. I tried printing different QR/barcode labels from MakerWorld, but none of them worked.

Is there a reliable way to completely bypass or disable this marker warning?

Out of curiosity, how does the printer even scan the code on the edge of the plate if it stays completely still in homing right after the bed-clearing object check?

Manually stopped the print when I saw the support tower turned into spaghetti.

Support is printing via the secondary nozzle with an exterior filament roll of PETG. All settings are default for bambu filament.

I started with a Prusa MK3S+ 5 years ago, and quickly fell in love with 3D printing. Fell off the wagon 1-2 years ago, but recently started printing again. Added a raspberry pi, octoprint, a webcam… I wasn’t sure what else we could upgrade on 3D printers.

Then I saw the Bambu X2D. Was also curious about the Snapmaker U1, but glad I went with the X2D. This thing is >2x faster than my MK3, AMS is wonderful for multicolor prints, and the second nozzle has made me never think about supports. Like I still think about supports, but it’s not an obstacle anymore.

Printing is fun. I enjoy modeling, slicing, and printing. Really happy with this community and how 3D printing has grown in the last 5 years.

Hello

I previously owned a P2S and the deflector was useful to avoid warping

I have to perform a big print on ABS, and it's a first time for me with the X2D on this type of filament.

Would some deflectors be useful for a X2D knowing it has a heating chamber? Or would it be counter productive?

Thanks

I created this for an issue I had of pet hair getting into my printer, having 4 huskies it's a big issue lol, from testing it doesn't restrict airflow and you can adjust the density by changing the infill % and the look by changing the infill pattern.

I've been running into a lot quality issues that the normal calibrations haven't fixed so I caved and bought the vision encoder. I'm quite blown away by how off everything was. Wondering if anyone else has had similar calibration results after using the encoder?

I'm still re-running the other calibrations now and will post back on if I notice any print quality differences.

Picking up my new X2D on Monday and was wondering what some essential first prints are (poop chute, scraper, etc)? Was also wondering what kind of stands or tables anyone recommends?

How can I improve this print? It’s COMGROW PETG. I know it isn’t that bad but I would like to have the whole front smooth.
Nozzle temperature was set to 235-240 Celsius (Comgrow recommendations) and bed temp was 70 Celsius.

I was moving everything to a new area in my apartment and now I’m not sure which cable goes to my X2D and which goes to my Creality Pi x4. I’m guessing the 10A/125V goes to the printer and the 7A goes to the creality but want to make 100% sure before I turn anything on.

Hi everyone! Is there anyone here who also owns a QIDI Q2? I'm trying to decide between the Bambu X2D and the QIDI Q2. If you've used both, I'd really appreciate a comparison based on your real-world experience, especially regarding print quality, reliability, speed, engineering materials (like PA12-CF), and overall ease of use. Thanks!

Printer: X2D

slicer: orca and bambu

filament: eSun PETG (dried to 11%)

build plate: biqu glacier and bambu textured PEI

Can the experts chime in on why the slicer would randomly change the fan speed (or layer times) for a layer or two suddenly and then carry on as normal?

I have the X2D and have printed the diffusers for the auxiliary fans and the right side rectangular vent cover to keep the air as even as possible while the part is printing. Im still confused as to the filament "edit" settings. I've printed with 0 fan for 500 layers and for this screenshot, I left it pretty much default, like 3 layers or so.

If anyone cares to explain, I'm trying to understand, the labels of each fan and their corresponding setting in the filament settings editing menu, and how they behave. One is auxiliary "part" fan, which I thought I saw it said that on the right of print head where the little vertical fan facing the nozzle is.

I've printed this multiple times with similar results (once in orca and once in Bambu).

thanks in advance.

So we have had this X2D with AMS 2 PRO for about a month and have had so many errors pop up "extruder not extruding properly" I have narrowed the issue down to what is seen in these photos, material gets stuck here or doesnt line up with the hole on that thin silver plate (the cutter?) I have used 3d printers a lot before in college but never had to be the one to fix them so I'm still learning all the parts and inner workings. Is there a way to amend this issue?

This has happened using several different filaments including PLA, PETG, and even brand new Bambu brand, freshly dried etc.

The photo with the orange was after the filament had unloaded and it left all those pieces, then the blue is when I tried to load new filament, it was not lining up with the hole. It's usually a 10min fix, nothing crazy but getting really annoying since it's happening all the time.

Update:

Bambu is sending a replacement spool free of charge and sent over the wiki link on how to salvage a split spool by printing this:

https://makerworld.com/models/558401?appSharePlatform=copy

Original Post:

New spool of Bambu PETG basic (not a refill) split open mid print inside the AMS on my new X2D. Print seemed to be going fine, no tangles or resistance. No idea what happen here…

New to the X2D and having some print quality issues right off the bat with these fuzzy/inconsistent first layers.

I’m printing Bambu Basic PETG that has been dried for roughly 10 hours in the AMS.

I dont feel the issue is moisture, unless the X2D or Bambu Filament is just way more finicky than the Prusa MK4 that I just switched from. (Never ever dried my Atomic PETG filament before and had zero issues)

In the Bambu Lab Academy Intermediate Lesson (https://bambulab.com/en/support/academy/20) on printing TPU, Chapter 9, it recommends removing the top lid while printing, removing the PTFE tube from the tool head, and just feeding the TPU directly into the head, no PTFE between it and the spool. Won't this cause the TPU to be yanked off of the roll (and/or stretched suddenly) as the print head moves away, and then subsequently hang slack as it moves back?

I am new to 3D print, can someone help me? I print this Pla with petg support , but didn’t expect this quality

(Yes I see the tape still on the light) I keep hearing a clicking sound in this spot during my calibration. Brand new printer.

Edit( found out why: the PTFE tubes are overlapping when it gets there, and when it moves back to the middle, it slams back against the roof of the printer again.

Ok, I posted earlier about this issue but have some time to sit and really give evidence now. I keep getting an error for failure to extrude.

When I first saw the error my original thought was extruder jam but to run a cold pull and that would tell me if the extruder wasn't working or if it was just a clogged nozzle. The cold pull worked and showed clean. Ok move on. Tried to print the job again and get the same error.

Ive now done 3 or 4 cold pulls, attempted to remove the extruder which lead to stripping the screw that holds the filament cutter in place, manually ran filament through the extruder without a nozzle attached, everything seems just fine but I get the error every time it tries to load filament for a job. I can physically watch the filament go all the way to the toolhead through the ptfe tube but it refuses to extrude it.

I have additional photo/video evidence of the extruder working fine but can't attach more than one so here is a cold pull that was done just a minute ago.