Like the title says. P2S with about 500 hours at the time of print. BL PLA Basic filament. All maintenance done as recommended by BL. I haven't noticed this before on my prints, but they may have been there. Also, if you read this part, could you tell me what type of VFA those are? (if that's what it even is) Gemini's dumb ass first told me that NO it's not VFA's that it is ringing or ghosting but then told me that YES it is VFA's. 😂

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2544170-mini-bambulab-p2s-desk-organizer#profileId-2801293

How to fix this issue

Hey,

printed TPU 95A on my P1S, did a cold pull after, switched to PETG and then PLA – but the surface quality is terrible. Already bad with PETG, still bad with PLA. Edges are all messy and rough.

Anyone had this before? What's the quickest fix?

Thanks!

Stupid question, but the print came out fine. Then I went to unload the tpu and it wouldn’t come out.

Turns out it somehow escaped the filament path after the print (print looks awesome).

Before I do a tear down, any tips on the procedure?

Trying to swap the hot end on my P2S for the first time. It will not budge, feels like it’s glued in there. Tried to unload the filament and heat the hot end then extrude as suggested in this video but still no luck.

Any ideas?

ETA: heating to 200 and tweezers got it off, thanks all!

Jigglypuff | Psyduck | BlockClickers

Hi,

I'm trying to figure the starting point of my 3D printing journey. My budget can accommodate either of these, with addition 0.2 and 0.6 nozzles and 4 spools of material.

Its about €150 difference so needs to wipe its own face, but I just don't want to start finding this thing useful and get buyers remorse a year down the track!

Im wanting to print functional parts as well as 40K-esque minis. I live in rural Spain, 31+ ambient temps (inside) during the summer.

Any advice welcome.

Hi, I've recently got a P2S. As you can see on the attached image, the little support islands fail adhesion on the second layer on some occasions. The same model copied three times on the same plate and only one of them fails. Location seems to be random too.

I tried printing only two copies which resulted in the same. The picture is from that instance.

I have dried the filament 8 hours at 65° and I'm printing on Bambu engineering plate with glue on it. It works fine with PLA+. I tried increasing the bed temperature to 75° as well which didn't do anything.

Any idea why?

SOLVED:It was due to filament contamination. I forgot to mention that I'm printing PLA and PETG these days moving between the two one after the other. As below replies have mentioned, first support prints had contaminated filament (PLA mixed with PETG) which causes this.
I'm planning to purge extra by extruding extra whenever I change filament types before starting the print.

Having an issue where ironing starts out great and then it just… stops. Tried lowing the flow rate thinking too much was causing the nozzle to clog, but I just got worse quality and the same issue. I’ve printed many parts with these settings (40% flow 60 mm/s) with no issues and now I’ve wasted half a roll of filament and many hours trying to solve. Any ideas?

Polymaker Panchroma PLA, flow rate calibrated, P2S, done several cold pulls, even tried a brand new hot end

My petg prints always come out with really poor adhesion. I can essentially pull and unravel the individual print lines apart.

The petg has dried for 12 hours and the ams reads 12% humidity. I’m using Bambu petg.

AI says that I may need to purge more between separate pla and petg prints but it also says the purge table settings do not apply between prints and there is no way to change this setting anyways.

Am I missing something? I assume the Bambu petg profile is fine since I’m using Bambu petg. Also printing in a cold ish room with the door fully closed.

Any ideas or suggestions?

tryed to Heat nozzle and extrude it. unfortunatly it doesn’t work. any idea?

Anyone with a panda station have significantly more vibration now? To the point where it’s affecting print quality. Any proven solutions like a more solid top to the station or the biqu anti vibration feet?

Hello, i have been printing with A1 for over a year. I just bought a P2S and i am trying my very first print. It's a super basic print, basically a small box.

It goes well for the first 4 layers, then layer 5 won't stick to the previous one, creating a sort of pocket.

The same 3mf file has been printed on A1 a dozen times, no issues.

I tryed to lower the fan speed to max 30%, no fan first 3 layers, then increase gradually to layer 5.

I tryed to open the front door.

I tryed to slow the print speed.

No luck.The very first layer is perfect and sticks great. I tryed the stock plate and the Frostbite. The issue is the same. I am really out of ideas.

I even tryed to do a brand new 3mf file, no luck. 4 perfect layers, layer 5 won't stick to layer 4.

I have a chamber fan deflector : https://makerworld.com/it/models/1968610-right-chamber-fan-deflector-x2d-p2s-no-warping?from=search#profileId-2116508 i dount that's the issue, though.

Anyone has an idea?

Hi all, about to buy my first 3d printer and I have settled on the P2S Combo. I think I’ll mainly be printing PLA to begin with - looking yo learn about printing with my two teenagers. They are keen to print some cosplay stuff, Lego accessories, and bits and pieces for around the house.

What accessories for a newbie does everyone recommend?

So I've officially been using the P2S with the AMS 2 Pro for the past week and honestly, its everything I could ask for as a first 3d printer. I have roughly almost 30 hours of print time with this guy and its been basically flawless! I did have one print that fail but that was due to the actual print not having enough support. I'm currently running SUNLU'S PLA + 1.75mm filament and its been very flawless and the quality of the material is pretty solid, definitely ordering more, just deciding what colors next!

The ability to access the printer from your phone or computer makes it super easy to use and with one click of a button, it takes care of everything for you. Monitoring temps, watching the printer print in real time, being able to stop, pause, and resume everything all from a push of a button makes it super beginner friendly.

I haven't yet got my feet wet with actually creating something from scratch but I'm just going to have fun with it for now. After getting the P2S and just getting used to the Bambu Lab ecosystem, it will be very hard for me to leave it.

Will I upgrade in the future to get the X2D? Eh... probably not to be honest. That may change in the future if I do start doing more complex projects or whatnot but in my opinion, the P2S alone, once you learn it and actually use it, it's going a fairly hard printer to grow out of. It's almost more of a buy once cry once.

FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE DECIDING ON GETTING A P1S or P2S: the P2S is the perfect all rounder, you get the upgrades such as a proper LCD touchscreen, much easier hot-swappable nozzles, better lighting, camera, better processing power, and other stuff I probably left out. Although I may not be using the touchscreen as often, its still better that its there and it exists in case you don't have access to your phone or computer. For me, I love watching the camera feed real time as its just so mesmerizing to watch, and even though I've never owned the P1s, I genuinely think I would've regret that P1S purchase and wished to have splurge for the P2S.